Racer X 69
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Posts posted by Racer X 69
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When I first put the car on track, I removed the inner structure from the hood, with only the outer skin. At that point the ducting wasn't in place. It was obvious there was plenty of air getting into the engine bay.
The hood looked like it was going to be ripped off at speed (about 110 in this shot). I solved that problem by adding a 5th hood pin at the center of the rear edge, where the stock hood latch is, and adding two short bits of aluminum angle where it was buckling at the sides.
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I built something similar for my race Z. I used .050” aluminum on the sides, and for the top and bottom the material is about the thickness of a beer can, about .010”. I used the lower right and left areas to funnel air for a second brake cooling duct on each side.
Originally I had a sheet of lexan across the upper half, to block off the right and left upper half, and perforated the center for the radiator duct. After a bit of vigorous bump drafting the front got messed up a bit so the lexan went away.
I really should replace it, the appearance was much better.
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On 3/21/2020 at 4:21 PM, NewZed said:
Apologies for resurrecting a dormant thread but it would be nice to know if there was ever a resolution here.
I think it's a shame this zcar depot dude hasn't responded to this. His lack of a prompt response I indicates he doesn't want our money.
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Looking good so far, @Gmagno. Any updates, or is life still getting in the way?
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On 8/17/2020 at 9:58 AM, Sanchez said:
I was hoping maybe some of you could suggest a relatively good primer to use to keep the car from rusting while I do the body work. Something that I can body fill over before using a a highbuild primer primer before paint?
I've been using Variprime 615S self etching primer since the late 1970's. Excellent stuff, it kills any surface corrosion that happens between the stripping of the old finishes and when you get the car to your shop. It also is a good base for high build primer just be sure and go over it with some scotchbrite first to promote good adhesion.
http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/dr/product/615S.html
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Plan is to have the car running by the 18th of this month . . . . so 9 days
So, its been longer than 9 days . . . . . . is it done yet?
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- Trim Clips and Pins - I need to find a bulk pack of the pins! Everytime you push them through to remove some interior they get lost or stuck in a spot you can't reach. These have to be sold somewhere.
The dealers used to carry them, but I suppose that none do for such old cars anymore. Motorsport Auto used to have them too.
I've used an air vacuum to retrieve the little buggers from cavities. Air vacs use a 3/4" vinyl hose, and I stick one size smaller inside of that to get some reach into those deep places around the wheel arches.
And look for the weep holes where the quarter panel skin is spot welded to the inner unibody structure.Sometimes you can blow shop air into them and find all kinds of stuff.
- Trim Clips and Pins - I need to find a bulk pack of the pins! Everytime you push them through to remove some interior they get lost or stuck in a spot you can't reach. These have to be sold somewhere.
- Fender Flares - Who makes a good set of plastic molded ones? I got the fiber glass ones from TheZStore and ended up returning them because the fitment was pretty bad.
Instead of flares, why not fat fenders? Like these:
I have this bodywork for my GT2 car (not mounted yet). I've seen a few cars running on the street with the same setup, like the one in the picture. Looks nice, and makes room for big tires and wheels.
https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/280yz/
You know you want it.
And fiberglass doesn't rust.
Front grill/fascia mod
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I use a bolt, star washer, and a nut one size larger to install rivnuts. Sure, I have the installation tool, but the bolt trick can get the job done more quickly.