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Everything posted by Racer X 69
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I use a bolt, star washer, and a nut one size larger to install rivnuts. Sure, I have the installation tool, but the bolt trick can get the job done more quickly.
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When I first put the car on track, I removed the inner structure from the hood, with only the outer skin. At that point the ducting wasn't in place. It was obvious there was plenty of air getting into the engine bay. The hood looked like it was going to be ripped off at speed (about 110 in this shot). I solved that problem by adding a 5th hood pin at the center of the rear edge, where the stock hood latch is, and adding two short bits of aluminum angle where it was buckling at the sides.
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I built something similar for my race Z. I used .050” aluminum on the sides, and for the top and bottom the material is about the thickness of a beer can, about .010”. I used the lower right and left areas to funnel air for a second brake cooling duct on each side. Originally I had a sheet of lexan across the upper half, to block off the right and left upper half, and perforated the center for the radiator duct. After a bit of vigorous bump drafting the front got messed up a bit so the lexan went away. I really should replace it, the appearance was much better.
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Rear disk kit from Zcar Depot Anyone using it.
Racer X 69 replied to Derek's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Apologies for resurrecting a dormant thread but it would be nice to know if there was ever a resolution here. I think it's a shame this zcar depot dude hasn't responded to this. His lack of a prompt response I indicates he doesn't want our money. -
Z-Envy Race Car - Champ Car Series
Racer X 69 replied to Gmagno's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Looking good so far, @Gmagno. Any updates, or is life still getting in the way? -
73 240Z VQ37VHR Swap Build Log
Racer X 69 replied to Sanchez's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I've been using Variprime 615S self etching primer since the late 1970's. Excellent stuff, it kills any surface corrosion that happens between the stripping of the old finishes and when you get the car to your shop. It also is a good base for high build primer just be sure and go over it with some scotchbrite first to promote good adhesion. http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us/en/dr/product/615S.html -
So, its been longer than 9 days . . . . . . is it done yet?
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My Z Cars. The race car is a hybrid. It has parts from 240 and 280 Z cars, as well as lots of custom, hand fabricated stuff.
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From the album: Z Garage
My low miles '71, with the '71 Conference Production race car.© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
<p>&lt;p&gt;My last novice race. Notice the hood. Looks like a tiny parachute. I had removed all of the support structure for the hood, leaving only the skin.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Four hood pins was not enough. Though the airflow was going to tear it off the car. I even had half the grille opening blocked off with a piece of lexan. So I added another hood pin in the center of the back edge, a small aluminum angle reinforcement (about 8&amp;quot; long) on either side in the middle, and a strip along the center of the leading edge.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Fixed it right up.&lt;br /&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Everyone though I had a fiberglass hood because I unpinned and then lifted it off. No hood hinges. They weigh too much.&lt;/p&gt;</p>© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
The green, blue and orange clown car, number 339 is what my car looked like before it was mine. Hideous. I found 8 different colors under that paint job. I removed every one of them. Then conversion primer, sealer, and the red exterior, and grey engine bay, interior and bottom. It has always been run in ICSCC Conference Production (also in SCCA meets), E on DOT tires, D on slicks. The logbook dates back to the 1979 season. I bough the car in 1989 from Ron Burris. Ran two novice races, Westwood in BC and Portland. Took the car home after the Portland meet and stripped it to the bare shell. It had a bolt in roll bar (no cage). I pulled that out and had Tim Howard at H&N Enterprises in Woodinville build the cage. I removed every bracket and clip that I didn't need, cut back lips on the inspection lids, removed much of the inner door structure, skinned the hood, etc., removing about 200lbs of metal in all. I even took the wire harnesses apart and removed all but what wiring is needed to run the car to save more weight. I campaigned the car continuously for about 10 years, winning a few races, runner up in season points several times, and winning the regional honors in '97 running a combined ICSCC/SCCA schedule. Had a lot of fun in this car, but it costs a bunch of money to play, so I cut back some, focusing on fun rather than points. When Team Continental hosted the second Conference double header race at Thunderhill we went down and ran. During one of the races one of the fuel pumps quit. The engine ran lean and the detonation broke the crank, a single crack between the last rod and the last main journals. Can't complain, in over 20 years of building and racing L series engines that is only the second crankshaft failure, the other happening at the same place on the crank (noticed a vibration during the pre race warmup and shut it down). That was the last time I ran the car. Took time off from racing to design and build a house. Maybe it is time to get the Z running again.© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
Westwood between the hairpin and the esses. Mountain High Racing© RW 2001, 2017
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From the album: Z Garage
© RW 2001, 2017