JeffB

I recently discovered that my 260z was upgraded back in the early '80s with Sumitomo MK63 / FIA 4-piston front brakes. This is great except parts are difficult to come by and I need to rebuild them. I found most everything I need even new pistons from an auction site in Japan (Januce.com) except for the bleeder screws that are NLA. They are an odd design with the conical end cut flat and a dimple ground into it to push against a steel ball that closes the fluid outlet on the caliper. I was thinking of machining a modern bleeder screw to match this design. Does anyone have any suggestions, opinions or cautions?

I think I found the same part for $22 for a lot of 1,000. I'm going to ask for a sample to verify this. Although I only need maybe 12 or so of them, I don't understand why they are so expensive.

I have no welding training but I've used a Harbor Freight MIG welder before and was not impressed. If you can afford to have someone do it for you, I would pay to have it done. If not, cut out the bad stuff, treat it with rust inhibitor, then pop rivet the new part in. The rivet head can be sanded flatter (not enough to cut them out) and counter sunk with a ball peen hammer, then hidden with plastic body filler. Since I live in NE Ohio, I've had a lot of experience in this process. I would definitely fix it right away. With everything your doing with your car, how can you ignore it? Jeff

How do you get the vinyl under the windshield molding? Do you pull it back with a plastic tool and tuck the vinyl in? If I need to sand this area out because of damaged paint, do I need to prime and paint the area under the rubber molding? I'm assuming that the molding cannot be removed without also removing the windshield.

How much vinyl should I order to do a wrap?