EF Ian
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Posts posted by EF Ian
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Got the welding finished today:
Started by aligning, marking and cutting out the holes for the camber plates, then welding the camber plates in:
Top:
And Bottom:
Then ground the edges smooth so it looks like it came that way from the factory:
And added the brackets for my strut brace:
Added a plate to strengthen the anti-roll bar mounting position:
And moved my washer bottle slightly, not far from where it was but it should look better like this:
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Pretty sure its 50mm x 1.5
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50 foot of the 2" wrap was more than enough to map my big 4-2-2-1 header on my civic, so should be enough for a 6-2
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Well, if I stay with the twins I'd want to upgrade to Tomei manifolds and downpipes for best flow so the cost probably wouldn't be any more for a single setup.
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I'm currently looking for a decent RB26 setup (although tempted to go 2JZ) I want little lag and good response and usable power from low revs and I'm not looking for massive power, around 430 - 450hp max. I was thinking a pair of GT2860-7's would work well but after talking with a tuner/builder he was saying that he thinks that a single turbo setup could work well and not be any less responsive than a twin setup.
He was thinking of a single Precision 5130 turbo. For me a single turbo setup would look cool and be easier to fit in the bay space wise, would likely weigh less and as there is only one its going to be cheaper to buy the setup and also if anything fails. But if its going to cause more lag than twins then I don't think I would want to consider it.
What are your opinions on this?
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Hope things go better this time
I'm still planning an RB26 for mine but having seen your problems I am now considering a 2JZ
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All looks amazing
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My remaining tyres finally turned up on Friday:
Got the welding almost finished today, welded up any remaining unused holes, just the camber plates left to do tomorrow:
Added a strengthening bar to the front:
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Started to fix/repair/strengthen the front end today.
3mm plate should add a fair amount of strength to the chassis:
Once both sides are done and the few small holes from rust damage have been replaced with new metal the camber plates should be getting welded in along with the strut brace brackets and finish off welding up some unused holes. Should be on a fair bit by tomorrow night, hoping to have it ready for paint on Thursday and after that It will be off to get my stainless steel brake lines fitted and the adjustable prop valve installed.
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Finished off building my driveshafts today:
Fitted my hubs followed by my brakes:
Rather happy with how its all looking, can't wait to get them fitted.
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I fitted my battery today, could have been neater if I'd used ring terminals at the battery, but I wanted the negative terminal kill switch and at the postive side I wanted to be able to have a cover over the exposed live parts;
I need to try and find a smaller positive terminal cover.
Fitted my fan:
Fitted new bearings to my hubs and pressed in the ARP studs, the painted them and mounted my brake discs:
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How the car is sitting, metalwork, welding and painting should begin on Monday, slower than I'd like, but what can I do:
Repainted the new shafts as I wasn't happy with the paint on them, also painted the cv's in a funky blue:
Bought some nice wheel nuts, they have to be open as I've got extended wheel studs all round. I had bought some cheap chrome ones but not all of them threaded on nicely and they galled badly on the wheels. These ones are very light (only 26 grams each) look great and the top of the seats spin freely from the main body so that they don't damage the wheel and allow equal torqueing all round:
New clutch master cylinder as my original one had seen better days, works fine but was quite corroded at the back:
Battery cable cut to the correct lenths, battery mounted power shut off switch, some more random wiring and a steering wheel cover to keep my new wheel clean:
Rebuilt my steering rack today and mounted it on the crossmember:
Got the engine built back up:
Started rebuilding my hub/suspension/control arm:
Couldn't resist trying a coilover in it:
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Or if you want a removeable one, but a Cusco strut brace, cut the round part off (where the holes for bolting it on are) and weld it to the tower.
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Would be interesting to hear a few different weights of RB setup cars. Both stripped out cars and road cars with interior.
I'm upgading my car for an RB, haven't gained any weight yet, front brakes - slightly lighter, coilover suspension - lighter, neater battery - lighter, unessessary braket removal - lighter, custom fuel tank with pump - lighter, will be taking my rear brake and u-joint shafts off later this week, hopefully thier upgrades won't add much weight.
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Which style of mount did you get with the Mckinney mounts? From what I see they do two, one looks a bit like the stock mount style and the other seems to bolt throguht the chassis and bends round under the transmission tunnel.
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Great, does it add much weight?
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Hows well does the door card fit on over the door locks and window switches?
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Is it steel or aluminium? What kind of baffles does it have?
I'm very tempted to make my own tank, probably SS since it's easier to weld, and have it fit like stock but with small sump.
Read my Post
Its Aluminium. If fully baffled, its got baffles in a few places and tank foam which is a very good baffle, its also got an internal collector which uses special one way valves to scoop up the fuel and keep it in the collector, it is possible to run these tanks alomost empty without fuel starvation/
I would actually almost be willing to spend that much to have a stock looking tank with the properties of a fuel cell. Or I might just cut out my perfectly good wheel well and have a cell put it, but another user recommended I get an F body fuel tank.
Decisions decisions.
I like it because you don't have to cut up your car to fit it, it looks close to stock (probably better than stock) when fitted, I can fill it from the original fuel filler, none of this having to fill it through the boot. Plus its got the best collector/baffle system available.
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Possibly, I was planning to go with the Mckinney mounts as from all the mounts I've looked at they seem to mount them engine the furthest back in the bay while still allowing the stock shifter position to be used and also come with a gearbox mount. If I could get alloy mounts that mount it in the same place then I'd probably go with them instead.
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How much did you pay for that tank? Thats a work of art.
It is beautiful isn't it, almost a shame to put in under the car. Its not cheap, if you include the tank, fuel pump, new dip type sender and new fuel guage it cost over £1000 GBP. But you do get what you pay for and the quality and workmanship on this is perfect as is the internal collector setup.
Have you bolted it up yet? How does it fit? 240z, 260z or 280z?
Its not bolted up yet, but I have offered it up and it fits perfectly, only reason I didn't fit it is because I'm getting stainless tank straps made up. Its made for a 260Z, but as its for a late 78 260Z (UK Model) its probably the same as a 280Z tank.
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Well, I got my tank made so I thought I'd update this.
My custom built Alloy Fuel Tank, built for me by Pro Alloy. Fits in the same as the original, I have it setup for use with carbs while I'm still running carbs but its also setup for a fuel injection setup and should be good to flow enouth for a 600HP turbo setup. Its got a proper intenal collector, baffles and is also filed with tank foam so I won't need to run an external surge tank. Its got a DeatschWerks DW300 fuel pump installed which can flow more fuel than I'll ever need.
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The car is away getting media blasted today, will either be back tomorrow or on monday.
I finished cleaning up the carbs, they are not great, but better than they were. Did a bit more work with the engine, the block seems to have changed color.
I took the steering arms, balljoints, brakes, discs and backing plates off the hubs ready to fit my coilovers, none of which will be going back onto them:
Got the new threaded tubes welded onto my hubs:
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Bay is completly stripped and all unwanted brackets cut off;
Removed the battery tray as I have something much neater planned but also because its a well know place for rust, just as well I did as that was one of two places where I have a rust problem:
End of the day, on trailer ready to be taken for blasting tomorrow:
Engine is looking a bit cleaner also:
Managed to find time to polish an Evo X also, came out nice:
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I made some progress today:
Got the fuel Tank out, didn't get round to fiting the Pro-Alloy tank as I am going to get some stainless tank straps made up:
Got the engine out:
Front end is mostly stripped:
Won't be using most of this stuff again:
How I left her at the end of today:
Still loads to do, but its a start.
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78 RB26 260Z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
New brake pads arrived yesterday so I fitted them to the wilwoods today, as from what I've heard that pads that come with the wilwoods stop you ok, but are a bit noisy and not great cold. I use Hawk HP+ in my Civic and they are great (apart from the dust) so thought I'd give them a go on the Z.
Got a good coat of primer on today, quick rubdown and she will be ready for paint