alsil
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Posts posted by alsil
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I know that the Cobra motor ('96+) is at least 6" wider than the 5.0. The Cobra motor for '95 was a GT-40 5.0. But, there's still tons of room left over from the typical 350 or 302 install, so I would just measure width and see. I bet you would have an inch or 2 to spare. Let me know about the other motor.
AL
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http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar
[This message has been edited by alsil (edited November 03, 2000).]
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I'm putting the front end on my car together this weekend (hopefully) and I realized something. When I took the control arms out, I didn't notice which way the bushings went. I have the aluminum adjustable bushings, does the hex go forward or to the back? I would guess that if I put it towards the front, I would be able to get more positive caster, so maybe that's the way to go. If anyone knows, let me know.
Thanks,
AL
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Ok, I got a chance to take a look at the companion flanges. I messed with them for a while, and noticed the splines were a little flat on one side of both! So I was just kind of messing around with them, and found that if you turn the flange and try different rotations, it would slide down either farther or not much at all. I found a good spot for both, and marked it. they both bottom out now on the bearing. there were no burrs or anything, just finicky. thank god. that's a relief. By the way, Mike, I drilled one of the stub axles out, I'll post a picture of the finished product this weekend. works good. this thing's finally coming together to look like a car!
thanks guys,
AL
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Thanks Mike, a friend of mine at work here has a late '78. It just stopped about a block from his house. Ran great up until then, so we're exploring the possibilities.
Thanks for the help.
AL
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Anybody know if the computer for a '78 is the same as one from a '76 of '77? Need to find out which will work. Also, if you happen to know if someone has one for sale, let me know.
Thanks
AL
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Actually, I noticed the same thing on my old Mustang I used to have. I used to race the car and didn't even have a vaccuum hose anywhere near the engine (I didn't like 'em). I stopped racing and drove the car like that for a while, and got really crappy gas mileage and throttle response. One I got above about 2000rpm, the car would rocket. I scratched my head for a while, and finally realized there was a reason for that vaccuum canister sticking off the side of my distributor. I hooked up a hose, and noticed better response and about 3mpg improvement. I also had to back off total timign because I had 289Hipo heads, 10.5:1 compression, which would ping easily. That may not be the issue with your engine considering compression. Having on the edge of detonation is usually the best place to have it if there's a problem.
Just my 2 cents.
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The 2 lugs that will be .125" fromt he edge should hold well. the flange thickness is around .375", right? So with 5 lugs evenly distributing the force, it should hold up just fine. I'm doing the same thing, and I was worried about breakout, but it will be more than strong enough.
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Mike, I'm pretty sure that the splines are the same, since it will go on part way. But I am still going to check that anyway. You never know. I'm going to degrease the stub axles and the Companion flanges. maybe it just needs a good cleaning. who knows. I may wind up looking for 240 stub axles. I will take pics and post them on thursday. I am really trying to get this thing on the ground. In the meantime, does anyone have a set of 240z stub axles just in case?
AL
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You know, I was thinking that. Maybe the machining on the stub axle was in the + tolerance and the flange in the -. you never know. I will compare the splines on the 240 and 280zx flanges and see what difference there is. I thought maybe there was a taper or something. Problem is, they both have the same problem. so maybe the pairs were matched tolerances. I dunno. It goes on part way, so maybe it's something else....we'll see. thanks for all the help.
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Sorry, I meant splines. If you notice, you can still see the splines closest to where the bearing would be. That's the problem, it doesn't even get close. I will check it out Thursday like I said, but I hop I have the right 240 stub axles. What would happen if I have 280 ones?
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Pete,
Haven't even put them in there yet. I put them together just so I could check it out, and they wouldn't go on right. I will check out the threads on the Companion flanges, as I know that they are the culpruit, since the others will go on without interference. I'll check them on thursday, since that's the next time I'll be over to the house. Both of them are the same when I try to put them on. I don't know, I'll take a look. You'd figure one would work if the other doesn't. What would happen if the housings at the back of my car we'rent 240z, but had 280z ones swapped in? I don't know the difference. How can I tell?
Actually, if you look at the pic: http://www.refuseband.com/Zcar/pics/parts4.jpg
you'll see what I'm talking about. You can see the threads on the right one. that's as far as they'll go on without forcing them (which I don't htink I should have to do). check it out and let me know what you think.
AL
[This message has been edited by alsil (edited October 16, 2000).]
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No, but I'll tell you, he sure watches what I'm doing. That's why I cann him the guard dog, he's right there making sure I do it right. Thanks for the help.
AL
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I'm going to try that. I just started assembly, got to that and went "Uh Oh!". Hopefull there's no problem.
Thanks,
Al
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Hey Pete, Curtis, or Mike:
I have started assembly of the rear suspension, and I tried to fit the 280zx companion flange onto the 240z stub axle. the stock 240 flange will slide right down to the bottom, but the 280zx one only goes about half way. it will not close completely. I didn't want to tighten it down too much, because I didn't want to do it unless it's supposed to be a interference fit. Is this the way it's supposed to be?
By the way Mike, the rotors and punch setup is great! I thought it would be tight to the edge of the flange, but it's got plenty of room.
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I guess no one has done this or has no opinion. It's not high on my priority list, but it's info I hope to have when I do it. I may just try it. Pete, what do you think?
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Cool, Thanks for the tip. I was thinking about swapping in a Mustang II rack and PS pump. If I do my measurements right, it should work then. Thanks.
I'll post a picture up on my page if I do it.
AL
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Ford Motorsport Cobra Rims:
17x9 rims have 5.95" backspacing on 94+ rims, for 93- they are 6.1 or so.
You will have to use spacers (2.5" front) in front but you will have to swap coilovers in order to fit them in the rear.
N/A 300zx rims 90+
they have 6" backspacing. you need to use 1.75" spacers (front) with a 4lug to 5lug conversion. Rear: need to use 1.5" spacers with same conversion. the largest tire you can use on the back without modification is 225/50/16. if you use 245's, they will rub on the outside fender, and barely miss the bottom of the spring perch. You have to raise the spring perch 2.5" and swap shorter springs (280z 2+2 springs with 4 coils cut), but the problem is you can't get spacers with less than 1.5" space with the 5lug conversion. You would have to do a 5-lug conversion to the hub (which is pretty easy) and then use 1" spacers. that's the only way besides coilovers.
Turbo rims will not fit unless you do the same conversion and use coilovers and .5" spacers. They are 16x8.5", while N/A's are 16x7.5".
Hope this answers your questions.
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http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar
[This message has been edited by alsil (edited October 02, 2000).]
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Ok, here's an oddball question:
what is the perfect position for the steering rack to be in relative to the knuckles? is it exactly level at rest? Or should there be some sort of angle?
Thanks,
AL
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No, That doesn't sound like blasphemy. I have been planning on that because I have not seen a good alternative yet. I don't want the car too stiff, so I'll probably go for that. All that I need right now to finish the chassis setup is the springs/struts, I have everything else or it's on it's way. So we'll see how it all works out. The funny thing is, I know that this is the EASY part. The engine/T-5 install is going to be a challenge. I will be posting some new stuff up on my site Monday or Tuesday, since the pics I took didn't come out too great. My brother has a digital camera and I'll replace pics that didn't come out. May just wind up doing that for everything. Saves me developing film.
Thanks for ALL the help!!!
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Never ordered from them, just fishing. I have to get some sort of idea of what to do with this soon, or I may just go for the MSA springs and KYB's. I am on a budget (My daily driver just blew up-try explaining to a tow truck driver that you lost revese and 1st, and you only want to be towed back 50 feet since the car won't even roll backwards in neutral!!!!!) so I have to put this together with the least modifications, but stock I know just won't cut it for a V8 conversion. I am planning on eventually redoing the entire front and rear suspension, but that's a few years out. I need something that will work well for now, drive well, handle well, and not make too much noise or rattle my teeth. I have a set of stock springs, but I really don't want to use them. Are there any lowering combos that work for STOCK strut tubes? I got the bump steer spacers, and camber bushings, so I can adjust for most changes.
Thanks for all your help!!
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Alright, what do you guys think of Arizona Zcar's springs? I am looking for a stiff spring, but not crazy stiff. I know I could use the KYB shocks with them. What do you suggest?
AL
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You're probably right, it's just beyond my skills to section the strut tubes. My brother's a welder, he might help, but he's busy with his own project (a '43 Willys with 44" tires and a 4.3Vortec), but I don't know yet. I may just use the spring/KYB combo for now, and then figure it out later. I have only until March to have this thing done (going on Power Tour 2001, need to have all the bugs out by May, going to Oregon in last week of March), so I may have to settle on some stuff. If I find a better way by then I will use it. I'm trying to save most of my time for engine/tranny installation.
Thanks for the help.
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I was told by MSAuto that I could not use stock struts because the lowering springs would bring them out of range and would bottom out. I wanted to use the KYB struts with these springs, but I haven't bought them because of it. In the JTR manual they said to put the fronts in the back with a 2" spacer under the strut, and use the Rabbit ones in the Front. Is this info correct? I want to lower the car, but if it's nothin gbut a problem, then I may just stay stock height. What do you suggest?
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What's up!
I am using MSAuto lowering springs, and I know you can't use the KYB struts with them, but I was going to use the JTR advice and put the fronts in the back, and use the VW Rabbit struts for the front. Problem is, I don't know what year car. does anyone know? I'm getting pretty close to putting this car on the ground, an I want to get the right stuff.
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turbo 302
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Well, for my setup, I'm going to use a clutch quadrant from a Mustang (aluminum adjustable), cable, and attatch it like a stock Mustang. Easier than trying to mate the hydrolics up. I'm pretty much going to just drill 2 holes in the pedal itself, and atatch the quadrant at the stock angle. Pretty easy.
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http://refuse.netdojo.com/Zcar