alsil
-
Posts
342 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by alsil
-
-
Man, that looks like it's going to be a beautiful install. Didn't realize the rear ceterline was that far offset from the struts. When you're done, will you do a breakdown of the whole swap for us? Some of us (ME) might be interested in doing it themselves if it's not too expensive. How much can the Dana36 handle? probably more than I'll ever put through it with my 302.
Looks like it's going to be a great swap, keep us posted!
AL
-
I have a Carter Pump on my car. I can't image the Holley being much louder. I have had electric pumps before, this sounds like someone sawing into the car.
Of course, I have no insulation or rug int he back of my car, so once I put some in, it should quiet down good. Al
-
Cool! Glad to hear it!
Thanks
-
Thanks, I will. Doing it later today after work, should be interesting.
Thanks
AL
-
Hey guys, I have a question, and I'm pretty sure you guys would know. I need to take the belt tensioner off the front of the alternator mount that bolts to the engine. I need to take this off to pull the head, and I need to remove the tensioner to get to the bolts that holds it to the head. It seems to have a torx head bolt in the center of the tensioner. Does this remove the tensioner, I'm worried because I don't want to remove it and have the tensioner fall to pieces. I'm pretty sure it won't, but I need to be sure, because I need to get the engine back in the car this weekend.
any help would be appreciated.
Pic of the front of the engine for reference
Thanks!
-
It depends on the source you get the numbers from. When my engine was delivered, with complete EFI setup, all accessories, and the T-5 still attatched, the total weight was 406 lbs. That's lighter than the L6 engine ONLY. I put MSAuto 1.5" lowering springs on my car, and because of the lighter weight in the front, the car sits almost stock height. I was amazed.
That's a 1995 5.0 and T-5 out of a Mustang GT.
Doubt an earlier engine would be much different.
AL
-
True. I go to another board that's a music board, and a bunch of new people got in there and overtook the General Discussion, mainly alienating all the relevant musical threads with posts like "Who's your favorite Porno Star".... the webmaster was overwhelmed by then, so he made a "Total Anarchy" Area for this.
I think this site is a wealth of information and without it my car would have not have happened. I think that Mike and Pete should stick by their guns and keep this site as is should be - about modfying Z's. I'd hate to see another great discussion board overtaken by random junk.
I didn't see the post, but if Pete took it down, I trust his judgement.
With that said, new people who come to this site should not be afraid to post, just to make sure it's within the realm of modifying Z's.
Just my $.02
AL
-
When I tried to do a check on how much space I had when I first lowered my engine into my car, the first thing that hit the frame rail was the stock headers (I had planned on using them originally). Unless you mount the engine REALLY high in the chassis (like at least an inch higher than I have it) I don't see how they would fit. I had to have the one that I used on the driver's side cut and angled more towards the engine to not rest ont he side of the frame rail. It is still REALLY close. Maybe if they are early ones, like '86 or before, maybe they fit? Dunno. You can position the enigne somehow for the rest to work, but I don't know about the tranny mount. I am pulling mine out in 2 weeks, I'm going to do some investigating. Plus, I'll be taking some pics that I missed in the mad thrash to be done for the trip. I'll do some measurments and share them.
AL
-
You can't use stock - type headers from a 5.0 on a Ford powered Z. the collectors hit the framerails. I had to use block huggers to make it fit. Don't know about header clearence with them, I'm looking into it though, since I'm planning on getting that new GT40P motor soon. Let you know what I find out.
AL
-
It sits directly over it. there's not much room to notch it, I pounded mine down with a hammer to clear. I got about 1/2". You can move the engine back another 1", but then the oil pan is below the crossmember, and I find that too dangerous.
Al
-
well, an aluminum intake could be any, but you will have to go with a cowl hood no matter what with a 351 unless you drop the engine below the crossmember, and even then, I don't think it'll fit. I am using a drop base air filter and a 302 and it barely fits.
AL
-
I think the 351W would fit the same, since the architechture is the same, but you would have to use a taller hood. My 302 with a Performer Intake, no spacer, Edelbrock 1406, and a 3" K&N air cleaner BARELY fits. I had to cut the air cleaner stud so the hood wouldn't hit! The 351W would be almost an inch taller (depending on what intake you use), so you would have to use one of those taller hoods. But it would fit. Exhaust would be a little tougher, since it's slightly farther out to the sides, but other than that, should be the same.
-
Yes, I wound up using those. I have revised the dims a little bit, but pretty much it's just like the pic. It mounts the engine against the firewall (although you can move it where you want it with these mounts) and the front part of the pan JUST above the crossmember. Check out the pics on my page:
http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-370s.jpg
http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-369s.jpg
http://zcar.netdojo.com/upload/mvc-380s.jpg
those are old pics, but you get the idea. I will update the whole page soon, since I have done a ton since the last pics.
AL
[ June 20, 2001: Message edited by: alsil ]
-
Here's my take:
Chevy 350, heavier, more displacement, but easier to swap.
Ford 302, lighter, less displacement, harder to swap.
All other things being the same, (and stock), I don't think there would be much difference performance wise. The 350 makes up for extra weight with more power. The 302 makes up for less displacement by being lighter.
I put a 302 in my car, and the engine/tranny combo is so much lighter than stock that my MSA 1.5" lowering springs make my car sit at stock ride height. Have yet to weight the car, but I would bet I'm in the 2200lbs range.
But you can do the same with a 350 if you lighten the load. All up to what you are familiar with and what you prefer. I have the RX7 mentality, lighter is better.
But I still love my '66 Chevy PU.
AL
-
Early 240's (I think 10/70 and before) have 10mm shorter steering knuckles. They changed them due to people complaining about heavy steering effort. If you're using wide tires ont he street, they are not recommended. If you're racing, they give you a quicker response.
AL
-
Yea, it sounds as if I have a broken Diff mount when I hit the gas!
Scary!That's ok, I think this piece of crap motor I bought is now dying on me. when it warms up, it starts to stall and I have to keep my foot on the gas. It backfired on the way to work a few times, and I barely made it. I guess that's what I get for buying a used motor. either the timing chain is messed up or the distributor advance is not working. I have not been able to get this to run right no matter what I have done, so I guess I was running on borrowed time. Oh well, gives me time to sort out the half shaft problem.
Thanks for everyone's help and input!!!
AL
-
Ding Ding Ding Ding
Found the problem. My driver's side outer u-joint is bad. Thing's clunking when I get on and clunking when I let off. thought my driveshaft was loose! It was so bad that all 4 bolts that hold the half shaft to the companion flange loosened! Ouch!
Well, that solves that mystery!
Al
-
Mike,
Are they the same length, or are they different lengths? I'll give you the length of mine tomorrow. Are they R200 shafts with the axle piece that slides into the side of the diff?
AL
-
OK, well now I know I got 2 identical shafts. They were exactly the same length. CRAP! Does anyone have a shorter one laying around? I don't have a choice about driving my car right now, My truck's out of commision, so I am taking it easy on the car going over bumps and stuff. Pete, you wouldn't happen to have a pair laying around?
Thanks
AL
-
Wish I could say that!!!! I know mine aren't, they are the same length!!! DavyZ, let me know about lengths when you can. Can't make it up tonight.
Al
-
I have an R200 also, and I/m pretty sure I need it. Does anyone have an extra short one?
AL
-
OK, now I am getting a bit frustrated. I put in the half shafts I got from Mike Kelley. Now I have binding on the driver's side, but not the passenger side. Are there 2 different length half shafts, also? I checked both when I installed them, and they compressed and extended the same. I remembered from the R180 shafts that they were the same. Does anyone know for sure?
Also, now I have a clunk in the rear. I have checked the diff and the mounts. I am at a loss. I would like to be able to drive my car comfortably, but all these things are driving me nuts.
AL
-
Hey, sounds like a great swap! I considered doing a similar conversion once, but got hit with the Z bug when I was about 21. The early roadsters of that era (1600, 2000, MG's) had unreliable engines that needed constant maintainence (my friend had an MG that spent more time in the shop than driven) so doing a swap like that is almost practical.
I'd like to hear more about the swap, when you gave pictures, share!
AL
-
I know what you mean. I am using the stock guages for the water and oil. The temp guage never gets past 150. the oil pressure never gets past about 1/4 mark. I am using the stock senders, too. They are getting jettisoned in favor of some VDO's VERY soon. Can't stand it. By the way, Pete, which ohm rating is the stock sender? There is like 4 different types, wondering if the Z one is anything close to ones GM, Ford, or Chrysler used.
AL
Of course, I have no insulation or rug int he back of my car, so once I put some in, it should quiet down good. 
Question for all the 5.0 guys out there!!!!
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Ok guys, I got my engine back in. Went through it big time, cleaned it all up. Got it started, the damn thing does exactly the same thing as it did before I pulled it apart:
-When I start it cold, it runs even and idles OK.
-As is warms up, it begins to miss. Sounds like a vaccuum leak.
-When it gets up to operating temp, is starts to surge worse and worse until it stalls.
-the warmer it gets, the more it hesitates off idle until you have to keep it over 2000rpm for it not to try and stall.
-pulling a vacuum plug does very little to the idle speed. Usually it should surge.
Now I have built a FEW small blocks and never have I seen this happen. I have a few theories:
-craked head on an intake port
-plugs on the back of the head defective or not sealed.
So my question is really your opinion. I am frustrated that I can't get this thing to run right. I have spent lots of money and time on this car and am getting tired of getting nowhere.
For the guys who have used them, those threaded plugs that go in the back of the head to block the smog pipe openings, they are attached to the intake side, right? They let exhaust gas back into the intake track to burn unused fuel, right? That was my understanding. How far are those supposed to be installed into the head? mine are sticking out about 1"-1.5", which might not be all the way in. I was thinking about it last night and thought that if these were really on the intake side, that if it was leaking past them, that could explain it.
Any other ideas or possibilities are welcome. I really want to drive my car. It's been sitting almost the whole time I've had it done.
Thanks Guys.
AL
