alsil
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Posts posted by alsil
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Yea, I have an Edelbrock Performer intake, 1406 carb, and the shortest K&N Filter they make, and I still barely have enough room. The EFI intake is actually shorter ('95)!!!
I had to cut down the air cleaner stud because it was hitting the hood!!!!
AL
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Actually, mine fit with my stock '95 intake with about 1" to clear. But the '95 intake is shorter than the earlier one, because the stock '94 - '95 hoodline is lower. Maybe this would be an option if you don't want to redo your mounts. then you may not need to use a hoodscoop. May cost less, also. The airflow difference isn't that much. In a light car it won't be too much of a deal.
AL
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How far above the crossmember is the oil pan? the front sump should be BARELY over the crossmember. You were telling me that it's about an inch farther forward than mine, is the rear part of the sump even with the bottom of the crossmember? if it's above it, you have the engine too high. I have an edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock carb, and a K&N air cleaner, and it fits with about 1/2" to spare. If you are using any type of high-rise intake, it will not fit. Carb spacers will make it VERY close also. Can't use more than a thin one.
Al
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Ford Racing makes a manual on EFI swaps. You can get the book straight from FORD. It's REALLY easy to follow, and tells you what everything hooks to. That way you can use the stock harness (that's already on the engine) and all you have to add is the fuel pump and fuel lines. I have it and it is easy to follow and is like $5. Just look in the Ford Racing Catalog.
AL
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I know what you mean! My car was just supposed to be a stock Z with a 302/5-speed and some nice rims. And you know what it mutated into!!!!
Mike, hope you feel better, try not to hurt yourself, it's just a car, dammit!!! (I can't talk, I have cuts, scratches, and welt on my hands forom the car!!!)
Take care.
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The only problem with the mounts I have is that there MAY be a clearence problem from the stock steering shaft (I'm using a '95 Mustang Rack, which is higher and longer than the stock Z, so I have to use a filter relocation kit anyway) but I don't know, because I haven't tried it. Pretty sure that since the stock rack is so much lower, it shouldn't interfere, plus I have seen 2 cars with a stock oil filter on it. here's and example: http://zcar.netdojo.com/top.jpg
no problem, but I have not done it myself. I, of course, have to do things the hard way, and use ALL custom stuff. Some day I will build a REGULAR car. Not this time by a long shot!!!
I SHOULD have pics up soon, still no camera.
AL
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I use a standard Ford motor mount that bolts to the engine one side, frame mount on the other. I want to use as many STOCK replacement parts as possible so I can find parts anywhere. Easier to fix if something goes wrong vs. special orders.
My crossmember has been highly modified to mount the steering rack and engine, so now the crossmember only supports the rack and the suspension, the engine is completely on the frame. Gave me a ton of clearence.
AL
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Actaully, you just bolt them up, lower it into the place you want, and mark the holes. Not too hard, took about an hour. just make sure to use the cross bolts to make it extra rigid.
Here's a drawing: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/motormountdrawing.jpg
Check it out.
AL
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[This message has been edited by alsil (edited March 27, 2001).]
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Check out the ones I had made - pretty easy to make, I had it made in a day. http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/302motormount.jpg
I have dims also, if you need them.
AL
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Does anyone know of another company that makes steering shafts/Ujoints besides Flaming River? Got a load of **** from that guy, trying to find out if there is a company out there that will actually WANT my business.
Thanks,
AL
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The starter I got for my motor is the stock one - and it's small. There is not problem with clearence from the TC mount. It's the stock '95 starter. Which one are you talking about?
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Oh, and yes, the frame mount is the same for both, except there is a .250" difference in the mount height for the tube the bolt goes through. it's higher in the front for the angle of the motor.
AL
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EFI Harness:
The Windsor-Fox one seems to be the best value, since it includes everything. The cost at first seems high (over $600), but after you factor in the fuel pump (over $200), inertia switch, EFI harness, ALL sensors, and instructions.
The frame mount is made of .250 steel. A friend of mine made it at his shop for me, I just drew it out and he built it. Took him one day, where it would have taken me about 2 weeks fo trial and error. I can send you a drawing if you like, but I will be making one to post on my site. Pretty much, I bolted it up to the motor, lowered it in place, slid the engine back as far as I could, marked the holes, and drilled. Pretty easy considering how much hair I pulled out trying to figure out the best way to do it.
For the tranny, I am using the JTR bracket, but I drilled it out for the 2 bolt tranny mount for the ford. You CANNOT USE THE STOCK FORD TRANNY MOUNT!!! It is WAY too tall, and the tranny will hit the top of the trans tunnel. I found one at the local parts store that will work, that is half the height. I will post the part # on my site when I get to the house (forgot to write it down this morning, meant to). then I bolted it up the same as the JTR manual. I am adjusting the tranny angle today, to set it to the same. So far, I have a pinion angle of 5 degrees, and a TRanny angle of 4 degrees. So I'm going to raise the rear of the diff by taking out the washers on the top. Should give me that extra degree.
What year car are you using? The shifter comes up in the stock '72 and up location, so you can't use the early console. Also, if you're eliminating the smog pump and AC, you don't need to use the eliminator brackets, I found the right belt part # to fit the reduced length.
Al
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I am talking about the Z wiring harness. Not the 5.0 harness. Those are quality.
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Any wiring harness that bursts into flames from turning on too many things at one time and melts the fuse box qualifies!!!
But seriously, the Z wiring harness is weak at best, and with EFI, you have to have a constantm CONSISTANT voltage to the ECU. If not, it will run uneven, will have starting problems, etc... It relies on a constant regulated voltage from the battery. This can be fixed by wiring the battery directly to the power Lead on the ECU, but you also have to splice in the EFI harness to the stock harness. I was going to just skip the whole thing and go for a Painless Harness. Only about $280, and has everything. I will go for that eventually, anyway, probably when I convert to EFI.
Unforunately, the Painless 5.0 harness is not available yet (from what Summit Racing tells me), which would be ideal, getting both.
Al
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Try it now, I guess the server went down for a while.
The total weight of the 5.0 motor and tranny way 403 lbs dry. That's WAY lighter than a 350 (525-560lbs) and a Z motor (about 460), so save your money. Although, the aluminum heads will give you more power, but since weight is not an issue, I would go for either the Sportsman heads, or GT40P heads. They are iron, but they are a better design.
Just some thoughts.
AL
Oh, and I would ditch the stock harness for the EFI conversion. Not stable enough.
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Also, you don't have to worry about weight too much, since the stock motor is already about 75lbs lighter than the stock Z motor- lots of aluminum already. That's 90% of the reason I went with the 5.0 motor, it's WAY lighter.
For teh steering rack, I left out that you have to cut down the inner tie rods 5 inches per side, and weld them together.
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anything after '89, I would say. they didn't change much after that, except for '94-'95, which had a different intake, harness, computer.....
Mike, check out my frame mounts for the 5.0 - fits well and makes a ton of room. I'll post some pics of the crossmember modification this weekend - had to replace the camera, it busted.
But for the crossmember, I cut the engine perches off, the rack perches off, and welded on an 18" long piece of 1x1 to the front of the crossmember with 2 2.25"x3/4" tube pieces welded to that 15.5" apart, and slid the rack right on- fits perfect, 1" below the crank pulley - use tie rods froma '95 Mustang, and a stock '94-'95 steering shaft, cut and weld to stock shaft. Not too tough, I'll have the pics up this weekend like I said.
Motor mount pic: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/302motormount.jpg
Al
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You can't use the stock tranny, but you can use the R180 rearend if you don't push it too hard. But if you're going to swap in a 302, I would suggest an R200. But if you're on a budget, an R180 will do, but you should replacce it at the first sign of noise. It will blow if you push it too hard. The R180 has a 7.2" ring gear, vs. the R200's 8", which is bigger than the stock Z28 ring gear on the new models. The axles are a weak point, too, but as long as they are in good condition, you should be OK.
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Depends on the year, but mostly if you put a carb on a stock 5.0 motor, you will get 270hp. Just because of the limitations of the EFI intake. You will get a bit more torque, too, but you will get 8-10 less MPG. That's the EFI's strongpoint, efficiency. Although you could get the EFI to put out that much with injector and ignition tweaks.
Stock 350? Depends on the year, but it could be anywhere from 140hp (early 70's) to 350hp (late 60's, late 80's-up) and depends on the state of engine parts.
Either way, Ford or Chevy, you can make the motors produce the power you want. Just depends on how much you want to spend.
AL
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I used a rubber mallot. about a 5lb mallot, and it took about 5 good hits. But then again, I had just put them in, might not be as easy if they've been in there since new.
Al
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'86 and above 5.0 Engines were rated at 225hp (net). These are good engines, since they already have the newer pistons, roller cams and mass air.
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Well, check out my site for more info: http://zcar.netdojo.com in the next 2 weeks. Here is a pic of the frame mount I'm using to mount the motor to the car: http://zcar.netdojo.com/pics/302motormount.jpg
Once I have it in the car (later today or tomorrow) I can post a pic of it. I chose to do it this way because I want to be able to mount an actual oil filter instead of using a remote cooler. The tranny mount will be next. I am going to make a full PDF file when I'm done with pics and everything available on my site when I'm done. That way there will be a documented Ford swap so people won't be so afraid to tackle it. I think it's less of a compromise because the 302 is lighter than the stock Z motor (by about 70 lbs) and is well suited for it, since it is not as wide as the Chevy.
Using the stock guages will be the same process as the Chevy except the HEI part. you will have to decide which ignition you want to use and wire it up accordingly. I am personally going with Pertronix ignitor and coil. It's even simpler than the points setup, and is wired up the same, so yuou can use the JTR setup for the wiring of the tach. Easy. The other senders and everything should wind up being the same. I would suggest an electronic speedo though, because using a cable will mean you have to have it calibrated and that will cost a bit (around $50) and if you ever want to change tire height int he back, you will have to have it re-calibrated. a 4" speedo will work well (and mount easily) and you can piggy-back cruise control on it since it's an electronic sender. The setup is about $150 for guage and sender, depending on where you get it, and which guage.
any other questions, feel free to email me.
Thanks,
AL
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My car has the double-sump, and yes, it fits JUST above the crossmember. It's behind it, but very close. But I have seen a front-sump oil pan on a Z (61-78) and it fit with barely an clearence between the pan and crossmember, but the engine was kind of low and pushed back, too. It had a top-loader, too. Don't know how much difference that made.
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My hood doesn`t fit
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Ok, issues with dropping your crossmember:
1. tie rod angle will not be correct at 1", you will have more angle from the rack to the hub and you will experience bumpsteer more the lower you drop the crossmember.
2. You will not raise your car by dropping the crossmember. This is only the pivot point at which the control arms rotate. You will get more camber. Look at the JTR manual to change the pivot point. They have a good procedure for it.
Not that I'm saying it's a bad idea, I thought about it myself, but my tie rod sits straight out from the rack on my car at rest, and seeing that (which is ideal) I will not change that. If you can recover some of the tie rod angularity, it should work. One good idea would be to "massage" the center of the crossmember to lower the engine 1/2". If you have a minimum of 1/4" clearence, you should be OK. I have a little more than that. I have not massaged my crossmember in that way yet, although I have in every other way.
I would try the '95 intake. In fact, measure the intake from where it bolts to the lower intake to the top, and I'll measure mine, and I'll tell you what it is. Then you can see what you can gain.
AL
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