M_Dragan

I just ordered a 5/8 master for the clutch, you’re right it’s easier to just try to match it because that linkage looks very similar to the design on the Supra. I’ll have to dig through my stash of FSMs for the 260-280z stuff. I hope it works lol, if it doesn’t I still have the 7/8 to fall back on.

My current setup is a 2JZ GE from an SC300, SC300 Exedy stock clutch kit, stock flywheel, Exedy stock clutch slave, and a 7/8 bore wilwood master cylinder. I believe the stock SC300 system calls for a 5/8 bore master cylinder, I picked up this 7/8 bore master cylinder a while back when I thought I would be installing a completely different motor/transmission combo in the car. Would I need a 5/8 bore or would this 7/8 one work? How does the self adjusting work? I was reading you have to adjust the throw at the clevis where the pedal connects to the master cylinder and that it affects the throw of the clutch fork.

+1 on buying the correct tools for the head bolts, they were only like 14 bucks for a set of 4 at AutoZone in varying sizes. I don't even know how you would be able to remove those bolts if they were rounded.

Hey everyone, Can anyone give me a rundown of how to adjust my clutch fork throw? The transmission is a W58 pulled from a MK3 supra, I can't really find a spec for how much throw the fork should have. I'm running a wildwood 7/8 master cylinder with a new stock slave for the transmission. I don't want to overextend the clutch, so if anyone has a measurement, a place to find the measurement, or could measure their w58 fork throw that would help me a lot.

Hey man, I apologize I haven't really been on here lately. I ended up having someone remove the bends, add crush sleeves to the rails, and weld the bolts to the rails as well. I'd like to mention though that I only had these problems because I did not weld the crossmember in. If its welded, you won't have the issues I had. I just wanted the option to be able to easily remove the crossmember. You can follow my build on IG if you want: jz_s30 (Ignore the overspray that will be taken care of at a later date)

Hello everyone! I'm getting to the point in my build where i'm mocking stuff up to begin wiring. I have a 2JZ-GE non VVT-i from a 1996 Lexus SC300. The plan for the motor is to use a plug n play adapter for an AEM V2 ECU part number: 30-6101. In doing this, I will be retaining most of the stock SC300 engine harness. I plan on replacing the distributor with 2JZ GTE direct ignition coil packs. However there isn't much info that I personally could find on this swap, all I could find was people swapping over VVT-i GE wasted spark coil packs. Has anyone done this swap? I understand that I can plug the coil packs directly into the AEM ecu but what igniter do I use? My main questions: - Can I use my stock SC300 igniter or do I have to get a 2JZ GTE igniter? - If I have to use a GTE igniter does it plug into the stock harness or do I have to make changes to the harness? - Would it be easier for me to scrap my GTE coil packs and use the VVT-i GE wasted spark coil packs? - Are there downsides for using the VVT-i coil packs over the GTE coil packs? Any help would be appreciated Thanks, - Mike

This is the beta motorsports mount. Originally I bolted it in just to hold it in place and to test fit the motor so I could see if it was in the correct place. I was planning on welding everything up afterward but then this happened

Do you think I could just pull this slight crush out and install the crush sleeves? Or is this a bigger problem?

It’s a 1973 240z. I can see the spot welds, I don’t remember exactly how close together they are.

Hey guys! I finally test fitted my 2JZ in my car. I had a custom made crossmember made (I can’t remember the name) and I only ran into one problem. It looks like the frame rails slightly sunk when I tightened the crossmember in place (maybe I tightened it too much?). Should I worry about this? Dropping the engine in did not make it any worse, and I’m planning on welding everything up.

Thanks for the tips! I’m definitely going to put the flange in between. I don’t see how it would ever come off otherwise lol. I’m going to do a ton of research, in your experience, how much do custom headers usually cost?

Hey thanks! I’m gonna check it out right now

Yeah I’m in that group, I just thought this would be a better forum to ask this question in

Hey guys, looking at options for my build. Has anyone tried to install/make 180 degree headers on their v8 swap? I'm doing calculations on how I could move stuff around in my bay to make space at the moment. They sound amazing, any insight would be appreciated!

I'm asking if you guys think I should be okay running it as is or if it will cause issues

I don't know. The dowels didn't look damaged. I also would have to disassemble the entire engine

Hey guys, I'm just finishing up my build and I came across a real street videos where they talked about proper seating of connecting rod caps. In the video they said that the dowels on the aftermarket rods can become misshapen if mounted unevenly. The problem is this happened to me twice. Once, the cap was just backwards and I didn't realize it. Second, it had seated fully seated over one dowel so it was uneven. Both times I caught the mistake before I yanked the bolts down. (Medium pressure). I had thought nothing of it and just corrected the problem. The issue is, in the video they say that the rods will no longer locate correctly and can cause major problems. What do you guys think? I have stock rods with the stock solid dowels. (Below is an example of the dowels) thanks guys

Because it doesn't need to be done, here in California I can't find a place less than $100 to balance my crank. They said the crank it balanced without the internals, so as long at the internals are balanced to eachother (which they are) it's okay.

The pistons aren't the same weight as stock. The pistons weights are equal to eachother though. Same with rods

UPDATE: realstreet performance says the crank doesn't have to be balanced. As long as the internals are balanced to each other, as in rods equal the same weight as eachother and pistons equal the same weight, it's good to go.

Yeah maybe I'll write them an email. I don't really want to do it if I don't have to

Can anyone confirm this? I had it spun and the crank is straight and everything

I edited the topic

Sorry. Question was supposed to be whether or not balancing the crank was completely necessary given what he's doing.

Hey guys, my brother is building an engine alongside me. He had to have the engine bored to .020 over and his new Weisco pistons are all about 61 grams lighter than stock and weigh within a gram or two of eachother. I was reading that since the 2JZ engine is naturally balanced that it's fine to leave as-is but I don't want to mislead him. Does he have to balance his crank? FYI: stock crank, stock rods, ACL bearings, max of 600hp, and max 6,200RPM like my build.