taaron

So I know its been a little while, haven't had a ton of time to work on this project but finally getting back to it. Got the new turbo zx injectors in, all the clips made. I designed and 3d printed a bracket for the 240sx TPS (which I can make available online if anyones interested). I did run into a problem however. I bought the coolant sensor from DIY Autotune, https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/, and it doesnt fit in the thermostat at all. Can I use the original one?

So I've got the distributor on! However the rotor looks like it accepts a bolt or something to hold it on and I can't find anything about this. Am I dumb and just missing something?

Damnit. Well I do have the gasket at least haha.

So I bought this because I thought I needed it. But with it in place the oil pump shaft doesn't reach the dizzy. Am I mistaken and don't need it?

Thanks for the response! I didn't even think about having to order a new distributor cap/rotor so thats on the way now. All that seems like something I can do, but I'm a little stuck on the last part Any more information on this step? I'm a little completely lost here. Also I may have missed an important step, how do I actually connect the new distributor to the rest of the system. Is it just a cable that I can't seem to find? And do I need a distributor mount like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280ZX-E12-80-distributor-mount-plate-OEM-used-w-bolts/382365166699?hash=item5906bd6c6b:g:V-oAAOSw9NBab-wM&vxp=mtr Or can I reuse the original one.

So finally started making some progress! Pretty stoked, got the engine to tdc, put the new oil pump shaft in and it lined up! Now I'm a little stuck. A bolt holding the old dizzy on sheared off so I need to figure out how to extract it. I do just want to double check I got the right parts. Does this distributor look right? It looks pretty completely different. Also I bought this optical trigger disk, I'm guessing I still need to put it on. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/

I considered it. And itll happen eventually. But I didn't want to wait for the rail to get in to get the car running again. And I needed to pause the spending for a little while. But I will be upgraded. And I am still looking for a dizzy, I was just going to pick one up from Autozone if I couldn't find one this week.

So I basically gutted everything this past weekend. It was an incredible feeling. I figured I could attempt to salvage some of the harness, but in the end I decided to just redo everything. Its not that hard to wire in a few brake lights. I kept the dropping resistors. Thanks for the advice! A Pallnet rail and hi-impedance injectors are on the list, but thats going to have to be a later in the year upgrade. Have to let my credit card recover a little. There is currently a little shitty eBay FPR on it. I've been meaning to get it updated to something more reliable, maybe now is my excuse. Unfortunately I've already got just about everything sitting at the house but appreciate the offer!

First off, just want to say thanks a ton. You guys have been insanely helpful already! I really appreciate it. Once these packages start finally showing up I'll definitely be reaching out for some tuning support. This is definitely something Ill have to add in. My "new" injector blower just arrived yesterday and I've been already planning to try and wire it in. Thats good to hear! I feel like its definitely going to be a lot easier to get that in the intake pipe than in the manifold. I just checked autozone, it looks like the one my car uses is a 12x1.5 but the one the Camaro uses is also a 12x1.5, so that should work! Assuming autozone is correct haha. So I've been tracing out the wiring diagram to figure out everything thats going to be removed from this car and its definitely starting to seem like a lot of crap. Does this seem about right? I know some of this stuff will be going back in upgraded, ie TVS with TPS. Water Temp Sensor Thermotime Switch Cold Start Valve Air Regulator Throttle Valve Switch AFM Dropping Resistors Altitude Switch Fuel Injection relay Fuel pump/control relays Transistor ignition unit

I'm struggling to find the post but I believe I read somewhere that the Coolant Sensor already in the car can work, it just needs to be calibrated in the tuner. My only fear with upgrading to the GM sensor there is tapping the larger hole. Thats never been my strong suite and I'm terrified of messing up the block. Lol I'm already not looking forward to tapping the manifold for the IAT. Is this the distributor wheel? https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/ This is the furthest I've ever been on a project like this so I'm not totally sure. Not a bad idea on a few sets of spare pigtails in case I mess something up. Any good recommendations for injectors? I don't super trust mine, but at the same time, I'd like to not push my budget above 1500. Maybe upgrading just to the 280zx turbo ones so I can be sure they'll fit? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-6-Factory-Reman-Nissan-OEM-Injectors-1981-83-280ZX-TURBO-1660302911/201317301856?epid=1739692544&hash=item2edf723e60:g:y-IAAOSw3v5Yruw6&vxp=mtr) And I've got a new set of ratcheting crimpers on order, my old little crimpers just can't give me any sense of security when it comes to making connections haha.

So I've gotten sick of attempting to fix this botched wiring job by the PO. I decided to just go ahead and completely replace the ancient efi system with something modern. I was wondering if this parts list looks complete. From scrounging various boards and posts I think I've gathered just about everything I will need. I'm a little intimidated by the whole thing so sureing this up will make me feel just a bit better.

So maybe a bit of a weird problem. I went through and started replacing all my fuel injector clips with some replacements out of a Volvo. They actually snap on, its great, or so I thought. Something happened and I'm not longer getting full power to each injector. The side of the injectors that get power from the Fuel Injector Relay and Dropping resistors are all good. But the side that seems to feed off the ECU are all reading a fraction of the 12V. Weirder is when I touch them with a multi, they read a voltage and just quickly start draining. Anyone ever see this problem before? Car ran fine a few days ago. Battery is brand new as of today.

Managed to get the alternator replaced. Immediately its putting out 14v! Definitely looks like that was my problem. Now I just have to do some positioning better because the belt is squealing. Definitely looks like that solved my problem! Can't believe they even bother telling you your clearly busted alternator is still good.

Aw man thats not great to hear about the results. So is it right in thinking that because it is putting out such a low voltage chances are it is bad?

I thought that the 78 was a direct swap and didn't require the whole external regulator procedure.

So I have a 78 280z that I rescued from an abusive home a few months ago. Didn't run at all when I got it, but thats since changed. I've been test driving it and it died on me the other day. It led me to believe I have charging issues. I took a look at the alternator and its a recent upgrade from a 81 NA 280zx. The alternator itself is only putting out 12.3v when idling at 1300rpm. The "L" cable is only putting out roughly 11.8v into the alternator. When I swap this with a hot wire from my battery thats putting out 12.3v, the alternator starts making unbearable noises. From what I've read online, this zx alternator should be putting out ~14v constantly, however I've never seen above 12.5. I took it off and took it to autozone where they tested it twice and said it was fine. Battery is also brand new, bought it at most a month ago. I'm stuck, because the longer the car seems to be on, the more it seems to be draining. And after 15-20 minutes it will just be too drained to run and will die.