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taaron

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taaron last won the day on February 27

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About taaron

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  1. Yeah, not sure if it needed the reboot or I did hahaha.
  2. In case anyone was curious, I solved it by unplugging all my wires and replugging them back in. I also ran the relay board ground to the battery instead of the block. Everything works and the car fired for the first time in a year!
  3. Hey guys, wondering if anyone has run into this problem. I recently started rewiring my car after doing an engine out restoration. Plugging in the old MS 2 3.57 w/ relay board, and all the associated wires. I've found a problem where I was getting voltage on my ground (on the relay board). I was able to narrow it down to the Tach In terminal on the relay board. If I disconnect it, everything grounds right, if I plug it in, I can read 12V at my ground. Anyone have any idea what may be going on here? It does it even when the distributor wire is removed from the distributor. (Also I know the relay board is sacrilege, however I have it and its worked in the past, dont have the funds to upgrade past it at the moment).
  4. Lol yeah, I assumed as much. Figured on that first compression/decompression plastic ones would pop fairly quickly.
  5. Definitely going to have to look into that zip tie method. It was definitely a little unnerving putting them back together like this, but I guess its nice that I don't need to use a spring compressor to get them back together! Thanks for the help!
  6. Still up in the air. I've got the system I want to use ready and shown to work, but it still needs a bit of work before its ready to be totally shown. Thanks! It hasn't really been a thought strictly because getting all that in the housing seems like it would be tough (not a ton of room at all to run the wires through the stem. Plus getting the controls ran back to the car and mounted cleaning could be a bit of a pain. I'm sure it'd be doable with enough time though.
  7. So question for those of you that have installed lowering springs on your cars. I've been working through my front suspension, and realized I had two blown struts on original springs, so I decided to go ahead and order a full new set of struts and springs for each corner. https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAGG-4-SHOCKS-LOWERING-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-74-75-76-77-78/401626649426 I've got these installed with the whole strut housing removed from the vehicle. Unfortunately when I went to see how they sat fully bolted up, I realized that the spring isn't remotely seated into the assembly. Is this normal for lowering springs (first time I've ever done suspension work like this). At the top of the assembly, I've got bump stop, top seat, bearing, then that top bushing.
  8. So I'm happy with the design, unfortunately this part of my project is on the back burner for the moment. Focusing on getting my engine back in and running. But I'm super happy with preliminary testing. The plan for now is going to be to print them in ABS, finish them with acetone smooth and regular sanding, then mount them up.
  9. I've got the original oil pressure sending unit. Any chance that would work? I"m also just looking at the wiring diagram and cannot figure out where it'd even go
  10. So I'm starting to plan on my dash and getting everything in order. I'd like to run a purely tablet driven dash. Most of the sensors I need are accessible via Raspberry Pi running Tuner Studio hooked up to my Megasquirt 2 (v 3.57). Is there anyway to also get readings like, oil pressure, fuel level, gps speed, through to tuner studio?
  11. So I've got a 78 280z. I'm looking to replace my center gauges with a tablet, which is going to mean modding my dashboard a bit. I recently for the first time, took a look at the 280zx dash and realized I liked the look of it/the style could make my install easier. Has anyone ever put the zx dash in the z? I know the car is a little wider but I wasn't sure if maybe it'd be a close fit.
  12. They are turn signals! I haven't had a chance to test their output yet. But I've deleted a lot of lights on my car, and wanted to have some kind of signal output that was different.
  13. I've heard good things about PETG. I went to pick some up this weekend and bought the wrong size hahaha. Its nice having the second set available to measure off because its surprisingly flexible. Originally I had a 3mm shell but I honestly think I may drop it down to a 2mm solid. Guess thats the nice thing with having the printer, can experiment as much as I want. I can take some pictures of the one I have at home, but its not the method I'm going to go. Unfortunately thats the part I want to keep secret until I have everything finished.
  14. Yeah, PLA isn't a good option specifically for the temperature. The outside of the car can fairly easily getting hotter than the glass transition temp of the PLA (un-annealed) and can start to deform fairly quickly. Yeah as far as finishing goes, the thought was give ABS an acetone bath to help seal it up then prime and paint like any other part.
  15. Hey everyone, so I've finally got my car back to where I can start making parts for it. I came up with this design for custom fender mirrors and wanted to see what people thought. Right now they're just printed in PLA (easy and available) but the final product I'd like to get done in ABS or ASA. Has anyone ever printed parts in either of these materials that then lived outside? I've heard ABS isn't great with UV however in researching commercially available fender mirrors, most are also made of ABS. Anyway, onto the design. The idea behind everything was a transition from retro to modern. I wanted to slope the mirror out of the fender, however I did want to keep the classic bullet look, so I tried to make it look fluid. There's a hollow tube for running all the wires through it. The backside features a small turn signal light, the mirror side is going to be something special. I don't want to get too far into it, but the idea is it'll will fix my biggest issue with fender mirrors, their uselessness. If the reception is good, it'd be something I'd consider trying to manufacture (I could do custom designs). Diameter is 90mm, length is ~150mm, height is ~140mm. Ignore the roughness residual from the printing.
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