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About Tarheelz

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    Carrboro NC

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  1. Hey thanks for the input! I will try that. Basically its just surface rust inside the shock tower and I can't get anything in it to sand it out... I'm concerned it will get worse so thinking about putting some POR in it? I could treat it with POR 3 step or maybe just hit it with some rustoleum spray... thoughts ?
  2. Good to know thank you for sharing! I have new rubber bushings on the TC rod already, so I will return these. I thought they were for the struts (even called 'strut rod bushings').
  3. Hi, since boarded in from the virus, one good result is I finally get to my do list on the 280Z! I took off the front strut towers to replace the struts and springs and all bushings. I had purchased the Energy front strut rod bushings but do NOT understand where these go from the repair manual diagram. They came in a pack of four see attached pic. Can easily see where the bump stop will go but not these... ? Also, second concern is the inside of the strut tower has quite a bit of RUST in it and do not know how to deal with that...? The rears are now done and they were totally clean with no rust inside... Any input would be most welcome! By the way, my car is a 75 280 2+2. Thanks!
  4. Removed the rail and tested injectors with a 9 volt battery and carb cleaner. 3 work, 2 clogged and 1 dead! Car has been running off 3 injectors! Ordering new ones and a new fuel rail and FPR right now ! Rock auto has new or rebuilt beck arnley N/a injectors anyone have any thoughts on those ?
  5. Interested in one of the L28 intakes. Also looking for a good 5 speed. Let me know b
  6. Thanks, issue still going on running rough. I think my injectors have sediment again This am I pulled off the cold start and black sediment was in the fuel that I caught in a small plastic container. May pull the whole rail again and clean injectors, replace fuel filter, etc.... that rail is a pain so may just upgrade to a straight one.
  7. Thanks Rossman. Yeah I have been active on the other other z car forums and I posted this and someone tried to scam me. I've never rebuilt a trans but I did rebuild my engine so might give it a go. Thanks for your suggestions.
  8. Hi, well, I have a fuel pressure gauge in between my fuel filter (stock one) and the fuel rail input...seems to be working well. It measures appx 26 with car running but during warm up this is not enough, it wants to cut off unless I unplug the vac from the fpr and then the pressure goes to 40...
  9. Hi there folks, L28 with N42 head and block and stock EFI getting really rough warm up idle. Car fires right p but then rough until very warm. What helps greatly is if I unplug the vaccum hose from the FPR (also stock) which increases the fuel pressure to 40 psi. Then the car warms up without cutoff. Any ideas ? Ive tested all the connections per the Z fuel injection bible and everything checks out except the AFM which is slightly off. Ive checked fo vacuum leaks with smoke test and fixed two. Still same issue.
  10. Anyone have any tips for where I can acquire a rebuilt one? I have stock 4 speed (2+2) and clutch and it's leaking and sloppy. Thanks!
  11. I used one of those white roloc discs and just spent a ton of time cleaning all the surfaces. Did top of pistons too. This worked for my particular N42. You'll need to vac out the dust as you do this. Can't beat pulling it and having it professonally cleaned and machine decked though.
  12. It’s a 75 280z mostly stock. New fusible links when I did alternator.
  13. Hi there Im stumped on this one....So my interior lights were working fine, and after an alternator swap, none work - no map light, no gauges, nothing. Unnamed Z retailer sold me the wrong alternator that was internally regulated and I had to figure it out the hard way. Anyways the correct alt is now on but now interior lights out. I’m thinking something shorted?? Headlamps work. I’ve checked all the fuses and they’re all good. Any ideas?
  14. Yes it’s the stock one. Ok no change then ! Thx!
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