guyz

My apology if I'm posting this in the wrong forum. I'm trying to sort out my 72 240 with 82 l28et running on megasquirt 1 (msns) and am hoping to obtain some concise guidance on this latest hurdle. In trying to get it working well again and benefitting from the new CX GT3076 turbo and ext. WG etc I've installed. Current issue I'm trying to sort out is wiring in the nissan PRW-2 igniter, to replace the 4 pin GM hei that I've been running on (fairly well for several years) First question I guess, is to verify that this is a workable pairing (PRW-2 with MSNS 1) If so then the big question is how to correctly wire the trigger/signal wire. Before getting to that let me explain how the 4 pin HEI was wired years ago and a detail that may have been done incorrectly 14 years ago when this was first wired with the assistance of a savvy (or so I thought...) friend. Originally, post B and C went to coil pos and neg respectively, post W was to main ground bundle and post G went via 2 wires to 1) megasquirt via fast idle wire and 2) a splice into the tps/vref wire, with an inline resistor installed and obviously, also going to the appropriate pin on the megasquirt. In my notes and msns install manual, it says that a pull-up resistor was to be installed on the fast idle/ trigger line. As mentioned above this was instead installed on the TPS wire. Does this make any sense or was this just a simple blunder? If so how did it even work, well I might add for much of the time. So, to the point and with these facts outlined above, how should I integrate the allegedly much better PRW-2 with my existing setup and harness? As per info already given, I've wired the PRW-2 black wire to ground and the green wire to the coil negative post. Should the pull-up resistor be detached from the tps wire and wired into the fast idle trigger wire with that attached to the green/red on the PRW-2? Please set me straight and on the path to driving my Z once again. Thanks in advance

Thank you so much, it's all clear now, and I presume I can T off the line coming from the comp housing, prior to the solenoid inlet and send that line from the T to the low side of the WG. Sound good? Can't emphasize enough how much I appreciate your taking the time to steer me right. Can't wait to see how the new CX gt3071, dual ball bearing/billet wheel turbo works with my newly built 3" dp and plumbed wastegate. Cheers Nigel

Thank you very much Nigel. I now understand how it works. The only thing I'm not 100% certain on are the solenoid ports to use If i blow into port P which is where compressor charge feeds into, that air bleeds thru the side port, if I plug the side port then no pressure gets past the solenoid to port A, which should go to the WG. This leads me to think that the WG should be fed by the side port and not port A. When I apply 12volts to the solenoid, it opens and allows the flow to exit the solenoid via port A(if side port is plugged) This would allow the WG to stay closed, if the solenoid is powered/engaged/open when wired with the controller and would allow the WG to open and spill pressure when the controller hits its preset and then cuts power to the solenoid, thereby allowing it to close and vent out the side port. I hate to seem like I'm belaboring this but I feel like I'm kind of rolling the dice on this part of the install and I don't think that's a great idea.

TRADER FEEDBACK 0 0 0 TOTAL RATING N/A Members 0 4 posts Locationvancouver bc Report post Posted 6 hours ago Based on old but positive posts on here, I recently bought a HDI electronic boost controller (type D) and am ready to install it. Seems great but I'm not super impressed with the instructional clarity regarding running the pressure lines to/from the solenoid. I'm running an external wastegate and it's clear and obvious that the pressure signal from my compressor outlet goes to port P on the solenoid. Port A then goes to the wastegate and it seems to make sense that it should go to the chamber below the diaphragm and spring, solenoid sends pressure signal at set boost ceiling and the wastegate is opened, thereby doing its job. The waters are cloudy for me when I go to the expanded schematic on page 9 of the online install manual (www.hdimenu.com) where it shows the solenoid output (port A) going to the upper chamber of the wastegate (spring side). They then show a line connected from the WG lower chamber, below the spring/diaphragm that is being fed by manifold pressure. What that means to me is that when boosting there is essentially an equilibrium of pressures coming at the diaphragm from either side. As I write this it is starting to make sense to me that once the solenoid is triggered by the preset within the controller, it opens and the pressure that is pushing against the top side of the diaphragm and holding the WG closed, then bleeds off via the open and unused solenoid port R, and the WG will then be free to open because of the manifold pressure being exerted against the single, low side of the WG diaphragm chamber. If I've got this correct then some validation from those more experienced here will allow me to carry on accordingly. Thanks in advance

Based on old but positive posts on here, I recently bought a HDI electronic boost controller (type D) and am ready to install it. Seems great but I'm not super impressed with the instructional clarity regarding running the pressure lines to/from the solenoid. I'm running an external wastegate and it's clear and obvious that the pressure signal from my compressor outlet goes to port P on the solenoid. Port A then goes to the wastegate and it seems to make sense that it should go to the chamber below the diaphragm and spring, solenoid sends pressure signal at set boost ceiling and the wastegate is opened, thereby doing its job. The waters are cloudy for me when I go to the expanded schematic on page 9 of the online install manual (www.hdimenu.com) where it shows the solenoid output (port A) going to the upper chamber of the wastegate (spring side). They then show a line connected from the WG lower chamber, below the spring/diaphragm that is being fed by manifold pressure. What that means to me is that when boosting there is essentially an equilibrium of pressures coming at the diaphragm from either side. As I write this it is starting to make sense to me that once the solenoid is triggered by the preset within the controller, it opens and the pressure that is pushing against the top side of the diaphragm and holding the WG closed, then bleeds off via the open and unused solenoid port R, and the WG will then be free to open because of the manifold pressure being exerted against the single, low side of the WG diaphragm chamber. If I've got this correct then some validation from those more experienced here will allow me to carry on accordingly. Thanks in advance

Hmm, it's hard for me to get my head around the substantially smaller area of the T2 adapter and the bottleneck it presents. Do you really think that I'll have better performance all round with good peak output to 6500 rpm or so, than I had with the old school t3/t4? If I'm certain of that I'd forge ahead as I don't really relish the thought of going back to square one on this project.

After pulling my smoking, blown t3/t4oe garrett turbo unit off my 72 z with 82 l28 et, On some advisement, I went ahead and bought a cx racing gt2871rs ball bearing, billet wheel turbo with an accompanying 3" v band flange and a t2 to t3 adapter. New unit has 60 ar / 53x71 compressor wheels and a 64ar/ 47x54 turbine side. with internal wastegate which I preferred for the simplicity. Well, now that I own this and have it in front of me, I'm fearful that this was a hasty and bad move. Turbo seems so small and the biggest corncern is just how much smaller the T2 inlet is and how restrictive this will be. Thinking I should abandon this install and go to a larger T3 setup, GT3076, GT35r or something similar and just deal with fitting external wastegate etc. I don't want to go through the whole process for no gain and feel I should just sell the turbo to a 4cylinder guy and start again. Any concise guidance would be much appreciated. Re my setup, here's the shortlist... p90 head stock, 60mm tb, megasquirt, 14point7 wideband (great!), 3'' exhaust with soon to be 3" downpipe, 450cc talon injectors, supercoupe IC with 2.5" piping. Running 15-18 max boost and seeking reliable 350-375 hp Thanks in advance from North Vancouver,

Funny, after so much deliberation I've just today decided to use that exact turbo to replace my ruined t3/4oe Will be ordering it on Monday when I can benefit from a 10% of sale. Sounds like it will net some significant improvements. I've already ordered the t2-t3 adapter and a 5 bolt, 3" V band. Will build a new 3" downpipe, replacing my decent 2.5" homebuilt and ceramic coated one. I'm excited to see how it works out, being a much more modern and advanced turbo. Wish you could offer some actual use feedback but I guess I'll beat you to the guinea pig role! Will be happy to relay my experience/findings.

Hi, I need a functioning serial to usb cable to upload a new tune via my laptop to my old MS1. should be easy to find something with a driver locally but not having any luck and getting frustrated. I live in Vancouver, BC thx