Ian Summers

PM sent about the door sill plates and start motor.

Were you ever able to get this setup together? How's she running for you? Thanks, Ian

No I have an old haltech e8. I got a distributor from an 82 turbo 280, and put in a 24+1 trigger wheel (so the ecu will see 12+1). I'm going to be running a wasted spark direct fire ignition set up using ls2 coils, and I have some top feed injectors from a neo rb25 (440cc/min), which will be run semi-sequential. I'm gonna set it up to run with a MAP, TPS, IAT and wideband O2 (all of which I have already). The rest of the fuel system hasn't been sorted out yet (read: I haven't thought about what I'm doing there, at all). But I think it should be easy enough to cobble together, given the power number I'm aiming for. Since I'm keeping the open R200 and just going up to some 205/60 tires, I'm contemplating using the haltech's boost by gear feature so i don't roast one tire in first or second gear. I'm keeping the stock speedo though, so I may need a gps sending unit or some other way to generate a speedo signal for the ecu. Still thinking about that, particularly the cost of doing that versus just getting an lsd (for budget reasons it would be one or the other). I'm likely 9 months away from having to make a commitment on that though, with all the body work and drivetrain rebuilding ahead of me.

I'm actually more set on the 10 psi number than the 225whp number. I've heard things about the combustion chamber in these motors being prone to detonation and I want to run on pump gas, so I'm hoping to just set it to 10psi, put a conservative tune on it, and whatever it makes, it makes. I'm not looking to blow anyone's doors off, so I'm sure it'll be plenty fun for me.

I did some searching before posting, so I came across the Borg Warner calculator. I don't have solid VE data for the l28, and there's other holes in my knowledge on the topic, so I don't trust my own conclusions from it 100% yet. Sounds like 50% actuation of the internal wastegate leaves me plenty of headroom before I have to worry about creep. Thanks for going out of your way to find that map and taking the time to have a look at that for me, it's appreciated.

If you could let me know how everything works out for you, that would be awesome. Thanks man! My thought was that the boost creep would be an issue specifically because of the low power level I'm at. I.e. I'm going to be trying to send so much exhaust through an internal wastegate in order to keep boost at 10psi, that at like 5500rpm, the internal gate just won't be able to flow enough - where as if i was operating at a higher boost, I may be able to just send more through the turbine. Am I thinking about this issue correctly or am I way off the mark? Thanks for the feedback. I'm not experienced running a turbo this small on an engine this large, so I'm hoping someone here's done it and can speak to it.

Hi all, I'm currently in the planning/parts-buying stage of a 280z project that I intend to really dig into once the weather warms up enough to put in some real hours in the garage. It's going to be a mild restomod that's mostly for riding around and looking cool in (at least as cool as I can look, anyway), nothing too wild performance wise. Currently, I have an l28 out of a 79 280zx that I'm freshening up a bit. It's going to be honed and rerung with new rod and crank bearings, gaskets etc. I plan to run a disco potato clone from CXRacing (https://www.cxracing.com/TRB-GT2871-64-RRB?search=billet dual ball bearing gt28). I'm also cleaning up the ports and cutting out the exhaust port liners for a few reasons. Firstly, I won't be running an intercooler, for reasons having to do with throttle response and cost savings - I think it should be fine for my relatively low power goals (going to run 10psi and hopefully make 225whp). Secondly, the turbo is possibly going to have a smaller than stock turbine housing, using an internal wastegate (i.e. higher EGT's... ergo potentially melted liners). My question is this: given the displacement of the engine, the relatively low boost I plan to run, and the smaller than stock size of the turbine housing - If I use the internal wastegate, how likely am I to run into boost creep issues during prolonged, higher rpm operation (think fifth gear pull to redline or something). I'd prefer to run the internal, for simplicity and ease's sake, but if there's a potential flow issue there, I need to make the commitment to running an external now. Any and all feedback you guys have to offer (even apart and aside from my question) is also welcomed, of course.

Someone came through in PM's and I bought one from them. No longer looking. 👍

Not to be pedantic, but as a former physics nerd, I have to push back a little bit on this point. Inertia is the property of objects that are at rest to stay at rest or objects in motion to stay in motion. In essence, things don't change velocity unless they're accelerated by some force (this includes objects with zero velocity - "at rest"). Inertia is absolutely not the rate of change of speed. The definition of acceleration is literally exactly that - the rate of change of speed (or more precisely, velocity). In essence, inertia is a property of mass (or in your post's words, "load"). The more mass something has, the more force it will take to accelerate it a given amount. You could think of inertia as the relationship that is the underpinning of the F = MA (force = mass x acceleration) equation. So inertia impacts acceleration very directly, but it isn't acceleration, indirectly or otherwise. It's worth pointing out that the type of math done in the virtual dyno is not really much different than that done on a regular dyno. The only difference being the chasis dyno calculates force by measuring the rotational acceleration of a cylinder of known rotational inertia (the dyno roller). The virtual dyno software is just measuring the linear acceleration of an object with known linear inertia (your car). The error in level ground, true wind resistance and possibly measurement equipment definitely introduces some inaccuracy, but in principal, the analytical method is not any more difficult or more of an extrapolation than a roller dyno. Granting the caveat of slightly less accuracy and R&D than a roller dyno, an in car accelerometer can give pretty precise, repeatable results (I know of two cars -but only two to be fair- that have been street tuned this way, and once on the dyno needed minimal adjustment and produced similar power figures on dyno). I also have seen someone take the rpm/time graph from his data logs, convert it to linear velocity, take the derivative and then calculate his power graph that way. He also got pretty good results. Cheers

I can source the spindle new, yep. Looks to be about $120-$130, and a similar price for a new distributor with the CAS in it as well. I figured I'd post a thread on here to see if anyone had an extra that they would like to turn into cash and maybe I could save a few dollars. Thanks Thanks for having a look anyway

Awesome. If they're from a 82-83 l28et, that'd be great. Let me know if you turn anything up.

Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Thank for you asking/clarifying; I'm going to edit the post now.

I'm presently building a 280z and would like to run a megasquirt for my ignition... so here I am. Anyone have an 82-83 turbo dizzy or input shaft they'd be willing to let go of? - Ian

I have one off an l28. I don't know if they're interchangeable, but if they are and no one else gets back to you, I've got one.