Nicksturboz2

lol you are correct sir.... I checked the wheel bearing and there were alittle loose on the driver side [normalish] but the pass side didnt feel right [probly needs new bearing} but I got it tightened up and took it for a drive..... night and day diffence. Ive been working on everything else it didnt even occur to me to check. so thank you.

Wanted to give an update. she is fixed. It was the bosch 124 ignition module. The ground had corrosion under the connecter at the chassis ground and replaced the module. Also it now has a keyway in the ati underdrive pully and Im getting ready to install kameari twin idler and their perfromance oil pump.... I already installed the adjustable cam gear. she pulls really hard as its climing past 6k. I havent had the guts to keep my foot in it much past 6k but there really isnt any need to rev much higher anyway. mods list sense last post cylinder head.... I did more port matching and cc matched the combustion cambers had the head decked alittle more.... and I unshrouded the valves and polished the combution chambers.... also port matched the intake to the head/intake gasket hx35 now has a billet compressor wheel 2010 sti diff installed only problems Im having at the moment is when driving the car it wants to follow the grooves in the road but on flat road it drives perfect and the alternater doesnt charge under 2k rpm because of the ati underdrive pulley alignment settings are 2.5 camber 6 caster 1/8 toe in ride height 6in 17in rims 245 40 17 kumo v730 next im probly going to replace a the u joints but shes boosting and driving great.

oh and ignition timing right now is 19° at 1.2 bar 11.8 afr. Water meth is 330cc injector 50/50 and comes on at 160kpa. I think I'm going to add some ignition timing like 3 or 4. maybe the water meth is putting the fire out?

Just want to give an update... I've redone the crank pulley setup. There's now a keyway with an ATI underdrive pulley with a DIY trigger wheel. I've also verified top dead center with a piston stop and it's really close... like within half a degree. I also put a Schneider turbo cam 460 lift 280 duration 270 on the exhaust on a 114. But it really still doesn't want to rev above 6K. I don't have to run near as much boost to get the same power... right now it makes more power than it's ever made... and I'm happy with the power. I just want it to Rev. Supposedly it should rev all the way out to 7400. which I find really hard to believe and even if it would go that far... I probably wouldn't take it that far... maybe 6800. if you if you want a good laugh watch this video... it's my old crank trigger setup. it lasted about 14yrs and went through many many junkyard Motors and headgaskets. But surprisingly with the failure it didn't break anything.https://youtube.com/shorts/QXOTKOhxGMU

L28et not rev'ing past 4800 (like a wall) I have searched and can't find anything. I'm sure there's info on it though. I have a 71 240Z l28et megasquirt hx35 water meth 1.4bar low boost high boost is 2bar runs and drives great but only wants to rev to 4800. I recently put this engine together about 18,000 miles ago and it used to pull hard way past 5K (5500-5800 is where it would normally start to fall off at but I could push it to 6-6200) only thing that has changed is I've gone to sea level adjusted the tune accordingly 24 degrees of ignition timing 10.8 -11.2 afr (only thing I've changed is fuel). I've been going easy on it because I was driving it across the country and don't have a garage to work on it and was the first time Ive turned down the Boost from 2bar. Normally I don't rev it that high unless I'm racing or driving it hard (on track) and haven't really gotten on it really hard since before I drove it across the country... what I think is happening is my cam timing is advanced... while driving it across the country one morning I got up to start it to let it warm up and it backfired through the intake and idled backwards for a couple of seconds (sounded horrible). Quickly turned off the ignition checked everything and went to start it and it started and drove fine. That was about 2800 miles ago. Full Boost @ 3800 feels like it should be at 4500 or even higher. In order for me to check ignition timing on the crank I would have to put a dial indicator in cylinder 1 because there's no key way in the underdrive pulley. it's only been dialed in when the engine was first assembled for the offset to megasquirt. this is what makes my dilemma a little harder to check cam timing. I can't just pop up off the valve cover and check crank to cam timing. I may need to just go buy a dial indicator take off the valve cover and go from there and start turning the engine over. Anyway anybody else have this happened there engine... engine rotates backwards and the timing chain jumps on the cam? Ideas.. thoughts . Thank you for your time ahead of time and please go easy on me.