Sean73

The joints on the diff side do not come apart. This is stated in the FSM.

Read the article on ECU tuning at ZtechZ.net. It's for the VG30DETT, but most of the same principles apply. This is a good place to start in learning how to burn your own chips.

There was an error in my math. Now according to my calcs, there will only be about 1/8" play in the shaft. That doesn't sound right. What am I missing here?

I'm using the stock P90 cam.

Has anyone tried Ford Racing 42 lb injectors: # Fuel Injectors flow 42lb/hr or 441 cc/min # High Impedance (Saturated) # Bosch Part - 0 280 150 558 # Ford Racing Part - M-9593-F302 They are sold all over Ebay like this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7948868562&category=33554 They look similar to the SVO 370cc injectors everyone uses, only bigger. I am looking for something high impedance to go with my 88 Z31 ECU.

OK, let me clarify and think this out loud. I am measuring the halfshaft total length, from the edge of the wheel side flange, to the point that makes contact with the diff. With halfshafts removed, and fully compressed, the measurements are: (drivers side) STD R200: 15 3/4" Z31 CV R200: 16" With halfshaft installed, sitting at stock ride height: STD R200: 16 3/8" Z31 CV R200: ??? subtracting the fully compressed length from the installed length gives me the amount of play in the shaft at static ride height: STD R200 play: 5/8" Z31 CV R200 play: ??? since I don't know yet the installed length of the CV shaft, I can assume it will have AT LEAST 1/4" less play, because it is 1/4" longer fully compressed: Z31 CV R200 play = 5/8 - 1/4 = 3/8" we can add about 1/4" of play for the companion flange inset into modern motorsports adapter, but subtract about 1/2" of play because of the thickness of the custom adapter flange: 3/8 + 1/4 - 1/2 = 1/8 play" There you have it. The Z31 R200 on the driver's side will have about 1/8" of play installed, at stock ride height, on my car. Is this enough? It must be enough, because people are using the adapter , with probably way more radical suspension than mine. I am sure it will probably work with my stock ride height, but I'd like to get these measurements down in case I decide later to get radical with my suspension.

Yes, I have verified this. I bought a 240SX viscous carrier off Ebay, and my 88SS shafts plugged right into it. I posted this a while ago. They will also probably work with Z32 viscous carriers as well. I am planning on using the 240SX carrier (in a 300ZX R200 housing), 88 SS shafts, and Z31 CV adapters from Modern Motorsports. The Modern Motorsports Z31 CV conversion calls for you to reverse the inner cage on the wheel side of the CV shaft, this reduces the shaft length by 3/8". I took some measurments, and with these adapters, 88SS shafts, and an R200 installed in a 240Z, the shafts are going to be really tight -- probably tighter than R200 shafts which are already prone to binding in a 240z. Ross assured me they would work, but I'd like to see the measurements on paper.

I expected torque to be closer to 300. Dyno operator didn't accelerate quickly enough to keep the turbo spooling, and maximum boost (10 psi) didn't come on until very late into the run.

Thanks again for the info.

Hi Bernard, The ECU update is going well. I took your advice and burned the 88SS code to the second half of the AT29C256 chip. It works great now. The cold start problem went away - it must of had something to do with the original 88FedAuto chip. I've noticed the idle is much smoother with the 88 ECU, and it did eventually go into closed loop without making changes to the code. So, it's all fun stuff from here. I picked up a Z32 MAF locally for $25! So I would like to install it. However, I am a little nervous about removing the small resistor off the board, since my soldering skills aren't good (a guy at my work helped me with the ZIF socket, and I don't want to take advantage of him). Once I locate a 2nd spare ECU and Z32 MAF, I think I'll start with the Z32 MAF conversion (I always like to have a spare on hand). As for injectors, I'm torn between high impedance O-ring style injectors, or low-impedance barb style Mercedes injectors. Both have their pros and cons. Meanwhile, I'd like to do some experiments with the stock code. Here's some ideas I have - feel free to critique (I am still just an amateur). 1) Adjust TP values for the 8% displacement difference between the L28 and VG30. This probably wouldn't do much, but my thinking is that the VG30 TP values might be a tad too rich especially at low RPM. 2) It appears to me that the VG30 map doesn't go past 7 psi of boost. I found this by back-calculating from the theoretical air/fuel ratios. Even with the stock injectors, I wonder if it's worthwile to expand the maps to higher TP values, and get more accurate delivery at 7-10 psi. Thanks for all your help. I can't believe more people don't do this. For a $50 eprom progammer, $50 ECU, $6 chips, and freeware software, I've converted my Z31 ECCS into a very tunable system. With the money I saved I can go out and get a wideband. Sean

Thanks. I am trying out my 88 ECU with a stock chip and running into a couple of issues: 1) it barely holds an idle when cold, but idles perfect once the engine is warm. (I warmed up the car with the 84 ECU). Perhaps it does not like the CHTS input but I need to do more troubleshooting. 2) It won't go into closed loop mode I suspect the ECU doesn't like the 1984 ECCS wiring, even though the only difference are the air regulator and the fuel temperature sensor. These aren't mentioned in the JWT literature, so I figure they are not major enough to send the ECU into a limp mode - what do you think? 3) Tried burning a AT29C256 with the 88SS.bin code from the Z31.com website. The car would not even start. I figure it's something in the configuration of the willem programmer that I am using. One thought: should I write the 128 bytes of code to the first half of the chip, or the second half?

Thank you! Did you just jumper the resistors with some wire?

Bernard, I am making progress on my ECU. I bought a willem programmer off Ebay, and started burning some 29C256 chips with the stock 88SS program. A friend is altering my 88NA ECU with a ZIF socket. I'll be able to test the stock program in the next couple of days. Anyway, I am still interested in the mods you did to install the Z32 MAF. If you have any additional info, such as where on the board these resistors are, I would be very grateful.

I would like to convert my 84 ECCS to 88 ECCS so that I can burn my own chips, and I know that the 88 ECCS uses higher impedance injectors, so I need dropping resistors. It's been a while since electronics class, so excuse my ignorance-- but wouldn't it be possible to use just ONE dropping resistor to the primary positive(+) power lead to the injectors, instead of 6 dropping resistors to 6 the negative(-) leads that go back to the ECU? The thought of making 6 splices into my neatly taped harness does not sound fun. I have tried an 88 ECU with my 84 ECCS harness, and it works fine without the dropping resistors. Would prolonged use damage the injectors? Anyone try this for an extended period of time?

Well' date=' I am running 8.8:1 CR, so I can't be quite that aggressive on the timing. I've been running 19-20 degrees with no ping at all at 10 psi. At 22-23 degrees, I get pinging at 10 psi. At the dyno, I started at 19 degrees, and my intention was to advance it between pulls. However, a stupid problem with the alternator killed all my time to make adjustments between pulls (I didn't want to pay for more than 1/2 hour this time around). When I re-burn my ECU, the plan is to be a little more generous on timing off-boost, while keeping conservative settings at high boost. I didn't get the AFRs logged. They wanted an extra $99, which I would rather put towards my own wideband. I have a narrow-band in car. Although not as accurate as a wideband, it has shown to be sensitive enough for my own purposes (for now). The turbo is a T3/T04E, stageIII 0.63 A/R ex. 57 trim .50 A/R comp, internal gate. At the time of the dyno, the turbo was a little slow spooling, which is probably a wastegate issue. I think this is reflected in the slope of the torque curve. Only 800 miles on this engine after rebuild.

L28ET, F54/P90, flattop pistons, 8.8:1 CR T3/T04E, .63 A/R ex. 57 trim NPR Intercooler 3" exhaust. 2.5" custom DP Stock L28ET 270cc injectors & fuel rail MSD fuel pump 84 Z31 ECCS and wiring harness. Boost was set at 10 psi. Timing at 19 degrees BTDC. Fuel pressure- stock I am very happy with these results. I am right at the limit of the stock injectors. There is not much to do from here without upgrading the ECU and injectors, which is my next round of upgrades.

Did you have to physically alter the Z31 ECU so that it doesn't croak when it sees the <2V input from the Z32 MAF?

I'm just getting started into burning my own ECUs. At this point I am in the information gathering phase and I've been reviewing the stock Z31 and Z32 maps. I have a 240Z Turbo powered by a stock Z31 harness, ECU, and MAF. At some point I would like to install larger injectors and MAF for more power. Through my research I have found that tweaking the ECU maps for bigger injectors and/or MAF is not just a simple matter of modifying the "K value", and running with it. Bernard, have you tried copying over the Z32TT maps to the Z31T maps? I realize the two maps are structurally a little different, but wouldn't it be possible to copy the relavant fuel, timing and VQ values from the Z32TT maps to the Z31 maps, since the bins are the same size? I would retain the stock Z31 maps for cold start, and anything else specific to the Z31 sensors. Then, install injectors equivalent to the Z32TT, and the Z32 MAF to my existing Z31 EFI. I figure this would be easier than custom-tailoring a Z31 map. Just use a stock Z32TT configuration that's known to work reliably to about 350 HP. Any input appreciated.

I think you're right. I do have my air cleaner under the hood' date=' but not by choice: [img']http://www.brewpubzone.com/images/240ZTurbo/lowres/engine_ds2.jpg[/img] I have not found a way to run the air filter in front of the intercooler, without doing some major cutting. So far I have not cut into the stock body at all, and I am trying to keep it that way. I did do some interesting tests with a thermocouple. Turns out that when the car is in motion, the underhood air is pretty close to outside temperature. It's at idle when the underhood temps shoot up. Sean 73 240Z Turbo

Doug Info on the 88 SE shafts OD of the splined portion of the shaft that goes into the diff: 30mm Hope this helps Sean

Couldn't find this in a search. Need to know the effective length of s30/s130 R200 u-joint halfshafts (installed in the diff). In other words, the distance from the differential side seals to the 4-bolt flange on the wheel side. Thanks, Sean 73 240Z Turbo

Doug - I will take the measurements this evening. I haven't worked on this for while, but I confirmed on the bench that the 88SE halfshafts do indeed snap right into the 240SX VLSD carrier. Sean 73 240Z Turbo