Sean73

I ran the Fel-Pro on my flattop L28 Turbo and now on my L30 Turbo. I don't see what the big deal is about the aftermarket metal gaskets. Sorry for my ignorance, but if you cut into the Felpro, it has a solid metal core... so what's the big difference?

My 73 tach works with just the BW hooked up to coil (+). I used the GW as just another source for switched power.

good tip... I got one working that way and will try the other after work. thanks!

No click when voltage is applied from a 9V battery. Resistance is normal at about 2.5 ohms.

I'm a MS newbie installing MSII on my 3.0L Turbo Stroker and am having injector issues. I've discovered 2 bad injectors out of 12 after testing them on my rail with MSII and PWM. I did not test the injectors personally prior to installation, but they should have been good. I setup PWM according to the sticky with my NA RX7 low impedance injectors. I don't know if the MS or my mistake could have fried the injectors but it looks very suspicious. Is there anything else I could be missing besides the PWM settings that could be frying injectors? On the one hand maybe I should just install resistors and be done with it, but on the other hand I'd to use the PWM if I can. Any ideas?

I think you mean Z32 NA. As I also learned from the group buy fiasco: Stock Z32 NA diffs are 29 spline VLSD. But the clutch LSD sold by NISMO for Z32 NA is 30 spline and comes with it's own companion 30 spline output shafts.

I took an aftermarket aluminum power steering reservoir and drilled/tapped AN fittings into it. Cost about $50 plus the fittings.

I run the equivalent of the AZC car setup in the front, and am very pleased with it. I run these with Z31 rear disc brakes and no proportioning valve (I probably should have one). I have also run the 4x4 setup and it is fine for street use, but I would not do it again, as I occasionally autocross and road race. MSA wants $600 for the base 4x4 kit, whereas AZC wants $789 for the Wilwood setup. I think the AZC kit is more cost-effective. Pad selections are unlimited, lightweight components, and monster rotors that are cheap to replace when they wear out. For road racing a V8 Z I would not short change your self on brakes. You may have the car up to 120++ MPH and need to haul it down in an instant-- not a task that you can trust to OE brakes.

The transfer film is even and looks the same on both rotors. Wheel bearings are fine, torqued the nut per FSM. I've cleaned up the rotors with a couple times with the same outcome. I would assume the MC is in good shape, since I used it for my previous brake setup with no problems.

I'm running the JSK rotor hat, 12.2" x 1.25" rotors, and older Wilwood Superlite 2 (1.25" 4-piston), and Wilwood BP-10 pads. When I installed everything, clearances of the brand new pads and rotors were tight. I got it all together, bled, and have gone through the brake in-procedure a few times already. After several applications of the brakes, I feel the right front brakes start to pull a bit. Slowing down to 5 mph, the right front starts to pull hard, and make a horribly loud, low pitched vibration. If I speed up and let the brakes cool down, it goes away. I am thinking it's one of two things: 1) The tight clearances of the pads and rotors are causing them to rub excessively when the pad/rotor heat up. 2) The right front caliper is sticking (but only when the brakes are warm). I've tried 2-3 heat cycles and get the same result every time. Any ideas?

Cool to see someone else has done this mod. I agree, you should only attempt this if you have access to a machine shop. I don't see where you had to make dozens of mods though. Once the bracket has been milled and bored, everything is bolt-up (mostly).

The problem with the 240Z hubs is that they are 9mm thinner. So, the rotor adapter will have to be 9mm thicker, to get the same rotor offset. According to my calculations, you would have to start with approximately 1" thick alumimum stock to machine the proper thickness adapter. If you've ever priced 6061 flat stock, you would see that it's just more economical to go with the 280Z hubs. The brake assembly would probably be lighter as well, if you use the 280Z hubs.

Thank you 78zlt1 !!!! Sean

Does anyone have this measurement handy? Also, how much of the metal shoulder can be ground off the bottom of the insert? I have front strut housings that were sectioned for Rabbit inserts, and am trying to figure out if I can wedge the MR2 inserts in there. It seems unlikely, but I want to be sure.

I'm interested if it can be done in the near future. I have a set of Superlites and am anxious to install them.

I'm running close to the same setup that you are aiming for (check sig) With flattop pistons, P90 head, and stock HG I am at 8.8:1 compression. This works fine for my current boost level of 12 psi. I'll be turning the boost up to 15 soon, and then that will be it. I thought the 8.8:1 compression was chancy, but at the same time, I did not want to alter the original "squish" design of the P90 head by increasing the HG thickness. If I could do it again, I would just suck it up and get forged pistons, and keep the CR about 8-8.5. I am using all Nissan EFI components, and it's fully programmable with my laptop and $50 EPROM programmer. If I could do it all over again, I might go with MS, since it has matured quite a bit since I built my engine. The thing I like about using the Nissan parts is that I can get it all at the junkyard, cheaply, and it works just as well. I also have a Zeitronix wideband / datalogger which has been awesome in the tuning process.

Just FYI: Street Turbocharging : Design, Fabrication, Installation, and Tuning of High-Performance Street Turbocharger Systems (Paperback) by Mark Warner There's pics of my L28ET in there. Enjoy!

I used the heavy duty headlight wiring kit from victoria british. It's $30, and a no-brainer to install. No splicing into stock harness required. I did have to extend the wires in the kit to route it the way I wanted though.

You can buy R12 legally with an EPA 609 certification, which you can get by taking a simple online test. They sell R12 all day long on Ebay. I can buy it locally here in Arizona at my local AC parts shop. I'm running R12 in my 240Z and it works great. First check and make sure that your compressor is not seized before you do anything.

I did the old gauge on the windshield test, and it seemed ok. Yeah, sunburn and tired. It was a great weekend at MSA. I wanted to go pound a few beers with you later but I was just wiped out.

According to my wideband I'm running lean at 4000 RPM and 10 psi. My injectors are 480cc and have been flow tested. On boost I have my fuel maps set to 10:1 A/F for testing purposes. Regardless of how I program the maps, It leans to about 13:1 or more at above 4000 RPM. I'm thinking that my fuel pump is bad or inadequate. It's a MSD 2225. According to MSD, it should flow 45 gal/hr @ 60 psi and 13.5 volts. This should be plenty for my application (see sig). MSD does not take into account fuel filter restriction though which could make this specification lower. I have a bosch pump off a porsche that I can test, but I would like to hear of anyone having success or failures with the MSD pump. Thanks

Hi- I just got my car painted Base/Clear in Porsche polar silver. It was cut and buffed, and looks beautiful. However, in very dim light. I can see what look like water spots in the clear coat. The spots are usually about the size of dime, and sometimes have parallel lines crossing through them. There is one large fist-size spot on the cowl. These spots are only visible in very dim light. In the sun, they are overpowered by the metallic. I've made a crude drawing, as I don't think these will show up in a photograph. I am going to talk to my painter about these. I hope that they can just be wetsanded out.

Is the geometry of the billet CV adapter the same as the welded adapter? I'm asking, because it would seem to me that the billet adapter could be made with a lower profile to allow for more play in the CV shaft.

What does Ross at MM say?