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captainkim

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Everything posted by captainkim

  1. The ones Ive been looking at have two holes but they arent designed for screw in oil cap but ...I "think" an oil plug. Would that work? https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTIES-POLISHED-ALUMINUM-CHEVROLET-PERMALIGN/dp/B016CKPOKW Also...I have a shorty....but is there any harm in getting a tall valve cover even though i dont need it? thanks!!
  2. I have a 71 240z that has a SBC in it. my valve covers were leaking and cracked so i wanted to replace them but ...the original covers had an oil filler cap hole and two other holes for the breather. Ive looked around for a replacement but found some that they only have 2 holes for the breather and none for the oil cap. Can I use this valve cover and just use one breather and use the other hole to put a cap plug. Do i have to get a cover with 3 holes or can i use the ones with just two with out oil cap hole thanks
  3. Looking for a Drivers side window rolling guide for a 71 240Z. The SKU: 80841-E4101. It seems NLA...everywhere i look. Does anyone know where to get?
  4. thanks all... I know this is a very heavily talked about topic. Was thinking of panasport but too $$ ....will keep reading on but in the interim I think Im going to \ stick with Rota RBR...hopefully 16x8 et 0....215/50/16
  5. I know this has been discussed in length and is all preference....BUT I have a 71 z and would like to put on new wheels. At this stage after all the review, etc....Im still not sure what the best options are. For the wheels...it will be Rota RBR or panasport (if i can find any). Theres lots of discussion between 15 and 16in......but it sounds like there are more options with 16. I dont mind 15s but i would like the wheels to fill in nicely. I have coilovers so it will be lowered. This car will be a spirited weekend driver. I dont want any issues with rubbing but yet get maximum "fill" in the wheel well. I do not want to user spacers so offset will be important also. I really need advise on : 1) which diameter is better (15 or 16) 2) Is 8in to wide? stick to 7? 3) offset ? =0? or negative? 4)tire size....Max fill without rubbing I ve heard these "may" work? I would like to have lips if possible. Would a negative ET work as well? 16x7 0ET 205/50/16 16x8 0ET 215/50/16 15x7 15x8 I know this is an over discussed topic, but if anyone had these wheels and tire sizes and can offer me the best package without rubbing and spacers...I would greatly appreciate it.
  6. I wanted to put some fatmax on the car, but if the plugs do wear then i need to cut a hole in the sound deadener for the plugs so i can change them when it rots again. there are so many plugs also!!
  7. Sorry if this has been discussed before but ....I drive a 71 240Z ......What is the purpose of the rubber plugs on the floor , trunk , etc? Water still seems to get in.. Can I just fiberglass it shut or is there another reason this needs to be accessible? thanks
  8. Looking to buy : 1) 4 x 15 in wheels (wantanabe style) 2) wilwood brake set or any other BBK 3) coil overs or bilstein suspension
  9. yes its a 71z . When it goes on the first "click" and I pull the handle, it retracts back al,l the way. But when i do the double click, it doesnt fully retract. Ive used lubricant all over and it still wont retract all the way. Almost as if it was the spring. I guess i should figure out how to remove the entire mechanism, and try re lubing it all
  10. Ive seen multiple forums on slamming doors but im hoping someone can help me out with a slightly different issue. Everytime i close the door, it locks in place....however, everytime I open the door and try to close it again, the spring in the door mechanism doesnt allow the contact point to go back into the full position. It stops midway thus not allowing me to close the door unless i manually pull up the notch. Is this something that can be fixed with out replacing the entire mechanism? Its almost as if the springs are worn out
  11. I figured that would be the answer. I saw that some of the trucks had the drillless mounts. For now I’ll keep it off on the z thanks again
  12. thanks for the responses. I have a 240z with the flares on them but I hate having to had to drill into the fenders....The next Z im contemplating on leaving it on without but will miss the wider tires and look. I guess you cant have the best of both worlds.
  13. Does anyone know if they manufacture fender flares that you dont need to drill? I like the look but hate the thought of drilling....also in case I want to go back to standard. I see they have it for trucks but i didnt see anything for cars
  14. Clunked has been fixed. The bolts connecting the diff bolts connecting to the bar was hand loose....Ive stripped the inside and rustproofed the entire interior. The PO used sound deadener to mask some of the rust. Had to sand it all out and seal it. Waiting for the new carpet and liners to install. Car runs strong...and Im in the process of trying to restore but my hearts not into it....I think I may just buy one that is stock and work on that. Ill put the interior in when I get it and then sell it for someone else to care for it. Still on the fence
  15. I ended up changing the thermostat and the waterpump and now the temp is within reason. Thanks again for the input. Now i have to deal with the dreaded clunk in the rear. I did get the metal housing and the metal impeller....mechanical is not the problem.....its the wiring im afraid of. Im clueless in both for the wire and electricity. More so on this since I didnt set it up
  16. I ended up changing the thermostat and the waterpump and now the temp is within reason. Thanks again for the input. Now i have to deal with the dreaded clunk in the rear. Question...off topic...Im on the fence of moving forward with this build as it will end up costing more $$. Im thinking getting rid of this and starting from a purist side with original matching engine and hopefully a rustfree car which is also$$. At the end of the day, I may end up spending the same amount but who knows how long the s50 will last me and then id be stuck as im clueless to the S50 engine. Thoughts? suggestions? Really need the groups advice.
  17. Thanks again everyone. I’ll check and replace the thermostat this weekend
  18. its not overheating per say, but unless the gauge is wrong, im nearing 250 degrees quite often
  19. Thank you all for your responses. I will have to go back and take a look at the specs. ZHoob....you were close in your calculation...i mistyped....at 4000 RPM I was going 80MPH. Im trying to lower RPM as my car tends to reach the boiling temp and at times i have to slow down to cool off the engine. Gas saving is secondary but also a plus. There seems to be many options but i think we all agree that 5th gear really doesnt do much but make me shift...I have 14 " wheels....I need to change them anyway so ill take that route first....Im guessing i keep the tire same for width and depth and just the diameter should be changed (unless it starts to rub). Thanks again everyone....i hope the wheel change will be enough...Im also going to try the royal purple coolant..supposed to drop temp up to 25 degrees
  20. I have a 1971 240z with a S50 (1995 BMW M3) engine and tranny. My refvs are very high at cruising speeds. Im at 4000 when going 75. I would imagine I would have to chenge the rear diff aas its the stock one from the 240z. Question is.....do i have to change it with a BMW rear end (that may not fit) or can i use r200 so i dont have to make major adjustments. Im unfamiliar with all the gear ratios but I keep reading that R200 4.11 is the most common used....not exactly sure what that does, but i would like to lower my rpms to 2500 when going 75 if possible.....I believe thatll take some torque away but im hoping the engine can handle the extra oomph from the start so its not too slow.. Also not sure if it makes a difference but its a 5 speed manual Can someone advise me of next steps? I hope i dont have to get a rear diff from BMW...and if i can use a R200 .... anyone have place to get one used in working condition? thanks in advance
  21. Is there anyone in the Northeast coast that is good at cutting and welding new floor pans and rockers on a 240z? Very hard to find a shop that will do it at a reasonable price and others wont take it as it slows down their business. Any leads or contacts would be appreciated. Preferably in the tristate area. Im in NJ. I was going to purchase the rockers and floor pans but cant seem to find a any skilled welder/cutter. All the shops want my first child to do the work. Any assistance would be appreciated. 9174283677
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