Sjoost

Looks like my issue is solved. Found a supplier in Germany which I will try for the floor mats. Cheers, joost

Hi guys, I want to get carpets made here in Holland for my 280z early 1976 model. I was wondering if any of you has a good pattern I could use, which has been used for a good set? Thx for any reply, Cheers joost

Hi all, I pulled out my original radio from my 1976 280z to fix it. Anyone know where to get a wiring diagram of this item? Cheers, joost

so john, there is noting like manual which contains these details? Was also looking for clutch master to slave line size. Coils still not arrived btw. joost

Thx jhm, where do you find those details btw? Joost

Hey guys, and girls, I am working on my 280z, 1976, dismantling the front suspension. While doing this, I had a hard time removing the left tie rod end (part no 48520-78500), which is connected to the steering rack, and damaged the tread on the bolt which is part of the ball joint (the one with the crown nu on it 01227-00031). I wanted to re thread the bolt, but i was wondering if anyone knows what the correct thread size is. It looks like M12 x 1,25, but I am not sure. Hope someone knows here, Thx, joost

Thx to nice people on this forum, I found wat i needed! John Meyer you rock. Thx again John. Joost

I found what i needed. Thx anyway! joost

Hello all, For my Datsun 280z, 1976, I am looking for the spring that is on the hinge of the door (left photo, of my left door). Looking at my right door (all fine there), I noticed that on my left door the "guider bolt" marked with the "X" has also snapped off. Is there anyone who can help me out with a the spring, the bolt marked with the "X", or a complete hinge? I'm located in The Netherlands. Hope someone can help me out with this small part. Cheers, Joost

Senor_Grizzly, Are you sure it's not your fuel pump, which is not working correct (or at all)? Did you download the FSM? Check the EE and EF chapters. cheers, Joost

Tito, If you disconnect feed wire to the solenoid of the starter motor (so it does not start if you turn ignition to starts), and remove the left side block connector (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) from the fuel injection relais, and turn the ignition to "start" (keep it on start), and measure the voltage on the fuel pump terminals, what do you measure (not really easy to do, and extra hands help here)? & did you check all the circuits from the icu (see page 45 onward, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf)? Greetz Joost

Hallo all, For my 280z 1976 I am looking around for some lowering springs, or cosmo coilovers to drop the car by 3-5cm. I'm located in The Netherlands and the options I have are mostly from the US/Canada. With the shipping and import taxes, the prices exceed the purchase, which seems a waste, and drives up my budget. Possibly someone has these items somewhere in europe, may also be second hand. I know Vogtland has some lowering springs which they sell in europe, but their production will only deliver in may 2019. Im reluctant to install full coil overs, considering the welding involved, and new prices. Thanx for any help!! Joost

Tito, I had same issue some time ago. Did you check my quest? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129390-fuel-pump-and-relais/ 1. Looked like I had some thing with a stuck relais or beeper for the seat belt 2. The new ignition switch did not work correct. When pressing hard on the starter key my switch was working. I fixed that later. My relais were all fine in the end. Hope it helps

Since I am missing the hose between the AFM and engine, I did improvise a tube there, which I think is not fully air tight. Also, I am really doubting if the vacuum system is correctly working. What I have understood that this should work correctly in order to have the AFM switch open too. For sure the AFM switch to the pump is working. My car also has an Airco, so I get mixed up with all the vacuum hoses (of which some are missing). Anyone know which are essential for the engine to run correctly? Cheers, Joost

YEH!!! I got it solved! - I had short linked to ignition black blue and black yellow, as my "s" on ignition was not getting switched. From the measurements I noticed that via the ignition coil, 12volts is also active back from the black-blue in the "on" setting. Due to the short link, the pump/injection relais switched both relais at the same time, causing a mess in that control circuit. - I fixed the ignition switch first, and got that sort of solved (bad chinees replica) - Now still no power in the pump, with the strange things as described before - I started pulling plugs again, and then I also noticed the seat belt warning light was off. I disconnected the seat belt (which i had locked months ago to avoid the beep), and tried again. Suddenly I got the beep-beep sound again. - Tried it the ignition again , and it worked!!! I think the seat belt relais was stuck and causing some leak, and that together with the bad switching on the relais from the bad ignition switch, and my short link. Now I got my fuel pump working, and engine running (after an explosion in my improvised air intake hose, due to starter fluid). Engine starts nice, but drops after 5 seconds. Think my fuel level is too low. Man...! lots of fuel is needed to be put into that tank before the outflow nozzle is reached from totally empty. Thx for all the help, and I' m sure I will need some more soon:-) Joost