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Sjoost

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Sjoost last won the day on February 2

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  1. Hi all, I pulled out my original radio from my 1976 280z to fix it. Anyone know where to get a wiring diagram of this item? Cheers, joost
  2. so john, there is noting like manual which contains these details? Was also looking for clutch master to slave line size. Coils still not arrived btw. joost
  3. Thx jhm, where do you find those details btw? Joost
  4. Hey guys, and girls, I am working on my 280z, 1976, dismantling the front suspension. While doing this, I had a hard time removing the left tie rod end (part no 48520-78500), which is connected to the steering rack, and damaged the tread on the bolt which is part of the ball joint (the one with the crown nu on it 01227-00031). I wanted to re thread the bolt, but i was wondering if anyone knows what the correct thread size is. It looks like M12 x 1,25, but I am not sure. Hope someone knows here, Thx, joost
  5. Thx to nice people on this forum, I found wat i needed! John Meyer you rock. Thx again John. Joost
  6. I found what i needed. Thx anyway! joost
  7. Hello all, For my Datsun 280z, 1976, I am looking for the spring that is on the hinge of the door (left photo, of my left door). Looking at my right door (all fine there), I noticed that on my left door the "guider bolt" marked with the "X" has also snapped off. Is there anyone who can help me out with a the spring, the bolt marked with the "X", or a complete hinge? I'm located in The Netherlands. Hope someone can help me out with this small part. Cheers, Joost
  8. Senor_Grizzly, Are you sure it's not your fuel pump, which is not working correct (or at all)? Did you download the FSM? Check the EE and EF chapters. cheers, Joost
  9. Tito, If you disconnect feed wire to the solenoid of the starter motor (so it does not start if you turn ignition to starts), and remove the left side block connector (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) from the fuel injection relais, and turn the ignition to "start" (keep it on start), and measure the voltage on the fuel pump terminals, what do you measure (not really easy to do, and extra hands help here)? & did you check all the circuits from the icu (see page 45 onward, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf)? Greetz Joost
  10. Hallo all, For my 280z 1976 I am looking around for some lowering springs, or cosmo coilovers to drop the car by 3-5cm. I'm located in The Netherlands and the options I have are mostly from the US/Canada. With the shipping and import taxes, the prices exceed the purchase, which seems a waste, and drives up my budget. Possibly someone has these items somewhere in europe, may also be second hand. I know Vogtland has some lowering springs which they sell in europe, but their production will only deliver in may 2019. Im reluctant to install full coil overs, considering the welding involved, and new prices. Thanx for any help!! Joost
  11. Tito, I had same issue some time ago. Did you check my quest? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129390-fuel-pump-and-relais/ 1. Looked like I had some thing with a stuck relais or beeper for the seat belt 2. The new ignition switch did not work correct. When pressing hard on the starter key my switch was working. I fixed that later. My relais were all fine in the end. Hope it helps
  12. Since I am missing the hose between the AFM and engine, I did improvise a tube there, which I think is not fully air tight. Also, I am really doubting if the vacuum system is correctly working. What I have understood that this should work correctly in order to have the AFM switch open too. For sure the AFM switch to the pump is working. My car also has an Airco, so I get mixed up with all the vacuum hoses (of which some are missing). Anyone know which are essential for the engine to run correctly? Cheers, Joost
  13. YEH!!! I got it solved! - I had short linked to ignition black blue and black yellow, as my "s" on ignition was not getting switched. From the measurements I noticed that via the ignition coil, 12volts is also active back from the black-blue in the "on" setting. Due to the short link, the pump/injection relais switched both relais at the same time, causing a mess in that control circuit. - I fixed the ignition switch first, and got that sort of solved (bad chinees replica) - Now still no power in the pump, with the strange things as described before - I started pulling plugs again, and then I also noticed the seat belt warning light was off. I disconnected the seat belt (which i had locked months ago to avoid the beep), and tried again. Suddenly I got the beep-beep sound again. - Tried it the ignition again , and it worked!!! I think the seat belt relais was stuck and causing some leak, and that together with the bad switching on the relais from the bad ignition switch, and my short link. Now I got my fuel pump working, and engine running (after an explosion in my improvised air intake hose, due to starter fluid). Engine starts nice, but drops after 5 seconds. Think my fuel level is too low. Man...! lots of fuel is needed to be put into that tank before the outflow nozzle is reached from totally empty. Thx for all the help, and I' m sure I will need some more soon:-) Joost
  14. Still struggling here, just an update, maybe you guys see some points I'm missing. - Restrued the Floor Temp relays and all seemed fine in the end. Reinstalled it. - Been wiggeling with wires - Found that my short-wiring on the ignition of the "S" and "R" wires causes 12volts to run back trough the "S" system in the "on" position, causing both coils in the relais to be closed in "on" position. Fixed this, and found that when removing both terminals from the Fuel relais, Floor Temp light would also work. So no I put in one of the 2 connectors in the fuel pump relais. I installed only the right side (88d, 86a, 88y,85,86c & 88z). This resulted into the double click of the relais. First click in "on" and second click in "start". In both cases 12volts on my fuel pump!!!, and floor temp light "ready" burning at "start" and switching off in "on". So that seems all fine BUT - once i put in the connector in the left side (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) all turns bad. Then i put ignition in "on' position, or start position, floor TEMP light does not light up, and I get no 12 volts on the fuel pump. - When I remove the (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b) side again, still things do not work. - However, after waiting for 5 minutes, all works again, with the left terminals installed. // considering that it seems something is "loading" or "unloading" I was wondering if there could be some coil or condensor which is malfunctioning. Also considering that when i connect the (88c, 86,88a,86b,88b), on the fuel pump terminals I get continuity with 0 resistance.... Anyone have any clue why connecting the left side of the above diagram give the issue here. Could it be something with the dropping resistor? Hope to hear from you...
  15. NewZed, I already checked the switch, before i read your post. From BE-28 i checked all and especially "B" and "IG" since those are the 2 active on " start" and "on", which are needed for fuel pump relais. Both had power in both settings. Therefore, I checked the working of the "floor Temp" sensor" and found in EC-17 that that system is also interacting with the fuel pump relais and grounding all over. I removed the passengers seat, and removed the relais (btw what is the thing next to the floor temp relais, on the left and is it normal that 2 pins missing in the connector?) Did the relais check as per EC-21 and found that terminals , and found error as no continuity exists between 5 and 6, and this should be present. Other continuity was okay. Did not bother yet to connect 12volts to check other functions. What do you think, could this be the issue? From the schematic I concluded that this could be reason, but i' m not sure. For sure I need to find a new relais, or is it common to remove the floor temp system? Cheers, Joost
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