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74660z

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About 74660z

  • Birthday 09/12/1965

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    South Carolina

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  1. It is an amplifier for a speed sensor that detects when the car goes under some speed to open vacuum solenoid. I forget its exact function, but it is an emission control. I have been chevy powered for years, but I recall it was never hooked up on either of my 6 cylinders. The thingy on your throttle body that looks like a fuel pressure regulator on a newer car.
  2. Ignored. Were those considered stupid questions? ...or what?
  3. I have a few questions for you, Grumpy... I have heard a few things about chevy main bearing caps. Maybe you can help me separate the BS from the facts. I've been told that factory 4-bolt mains are only marginally stronger (~7-8%) than two bolts and that aftermarket splayed-bolt caps on a two bolt block are ~25-30% stronger. Is this true? Also there is alot of conflicting info on the 400 sbc. Some claim the webbing is too weak for the extra holes on a 4-bolt and therefore, 2-bolt 400s are stronger. Is this true? And if it is, does it apply to adding splayed bolt caps to a 400? Should I abandon the 400 for a 350? I was told this engine is a '73 and it is a 2-bolter. I have the motor out of my car (400/t56/3.90) and have been contemplating aftermarket rods and forged pistons, in anticipation of turbocharging it in the future. (I am blaming my insanity on PaulR and Turbomeister.) I have no specific horsepower goals. I was thinking (hoping?) for 500ish hp and 600ish lb/ft. Basically, I do want to be able to bust 'em loose at 60mph. Also any thoughts on factory steel 400 cranks? (trash? keep? test?) Or on power expectations for a N/A 400 with only 8-8.5 compression? (smog heads and TPI. My plans are megasquirt, then better heads, then turbos. (Oh yea, insert; Buy winning lotto ticket between heads and turbos...hence my curiosity about the low CR. It is 9.8:1 now.) Oh, and a better intake and EDIS, after I master megasquirt. Thanks, Eric
  4. Had to crop all the rust out of the picture, so all you can see is the tag. Never move to an island and try to have a nice car. Rust never sleeps and it gets all hyper-active, at the beach. I have recently moved to SC. If anybody knows where to find a solid(ish) shell within reasonable towing distance of Charleston SC, feel free to post or email me. (malcontent(at)isp(dot)com) It has 400TPI/T56/MMS CV and 240sx disc.... now all I need is a chassis (again!) Eric
  5. Thanks for the responses. I am pretty sure I can get the car strong enough, even if I have to tie the front and rear struts together and weld the doors shut. Most of the advice offered seems to be ZX's, not Z's. Very similar, but I don't think close enough for comparison here. (Nice car BTW, Vinh). Sho-Z, you said you've barely driven the car. Bored with it or issues driving it? I was mostly wondering about cowl shake and windshield vibrations. Is the windshield frame rigid enough without the roof, as I am clueless how to stabilize it w/o a roll cage attached to it. (I'd rather have no doors than supports above the belt line. The roads suck around here (charleston sc)...like four wheeling on pavement. It won't be a daily driver, but it's not worth doing if it's annoying to drive. Eric
  6. Hello I am a new poster here. (although I thought I registered and posted a few years back, but cannot figure out my screen name.) Anyway, I am re-restoring my 260 and seriously considering a roadster of some sort. I have looked around, but not seen much comment about how rigid the car is w/o it's roof. Obviously it needs re-enforcement. And there are alot of different posts about it. But, none seem to comment on the rigidity of the finished product. I plan to start by doing a full frame rail, like (I think) Pete Paraska did. Then re-enforced rockers, tied to the strut towers. Anybody with a driver care to share their experiences? Does the windshield shake worse than an MGB? Any input or direction would be appreciated. Eric (I wasn't sure if I should post here or brake/chassis forum. I figured I'd find more topless owners here.)
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