jusjofok

Konish, those are some nice panels. I am hoping to find out that I can get a textured look so one doesn't have to cover the panels but we will see. I also think I won't be able to incorporate the top part (metal) of the originals into the new panel. Justin

19752802+2, I will keep that in mind. I have a 280ZX 2+2 and hate trying to find interior pieces so I feel your pain. On your speaker idea, personally I would feel a lot better about cutting a hole in a panel that wasn't original, especially if you wanted to keep it original looking. If this works out I may look into incorporating a boss to mount speakers in the panels. k14, I am not sure i will be able to mold the shape of the metal piece into the panel due to how I plan to manufacture it. Thermoform can't mold around a corner and back on itself so I will probably end up making the panel so it attaches like the old masonite thing did. I have a few types of vinyl and they are all different but most of it has the polyester backing. I am familiar with the 3M adhesives and will have to determine what material will take the form easiest before I pick an adhesive. There are so many different plastic compounds its hard to pick an adhesive sense they are so specialized. Justin

k14, I never even thought about having the panels textured, I was thinking of covering them in the same way the originals were. What a great idea! I was considering ABS and one of my dilemma's is finding a glue that will adhere to the ABS as well as the vinyl backing. Now on the metal part I think we are thinking about different things. I am talking about the "L" shaped piece (one long leg about 4" or so and a short piece that tries to make a "u" out of the "L" that is about 9/16") that holds the fuzzy strip and clips over the door material. It also contains the hole for the door lock. I will see if I can get some pictures to help describe things. Justin

Ok guys, before you guys start using that "search" word hear me out. I bought my 72 240 a while back and it is missing the right side door panel completely so I was searching around trying to find one and getting really discouraged when I couldn't find any new replacements (when I say new I mean manufactured in the past few years not NOS) that didn't cost as much as the car. So I got to thinking (I am an engineer after all) of ways to make new ones. I thought of fiberglass, fiberboard and various other materials. Making them in this manner would be fairly economical for making one but that doesn't help out the Z crowd... My thought is to have some thermoformed (plastic) to match the shape of the old ones. I know its not original but I think it would work. I found a place here in town that has the capability and am waiting on correspondence with them to determine cost. So my questions for you guys are: 1. Is there any reason the top metal part of the panel couldn't be molded to the rest of the panel as one piece? 2. If I were to get this rolling is there enough call for them to justify mass production? I am going to post this on another Z forum and am just trying to get a feel for the market. I am not wanting to become a millionaire from this, just want to better the Zed community. Justin

Tony D, I did search and the connector issue was the first thing that I came up with and did suspect. I recently had most of the connectors disassembled (about 2 months ago) when I replaced the head gasket and the connectors all looked good with no corrosion. They all mated correctly. Also in my experience when you have a bad connector you can wiggle the bad connector with the engine running and it will change rpm or stutter or miss or do something, this engine didn't falter when connectors were wiggled. I did do a throttle chop when it cut out and pulled over and removed a plug, it showed extreme lean. I then checked fuel pressure again which was ok, checked volume and found it took 10 cycles of the key to get about half a 20oz bottle of fuel, took off fuel line behind the damper to eliminate it and still very little flow, removed pump and had a great siphoning effect from the pickup in the tank, replaced the fuel pump and all is well. I can now fill a 20oz bottle in a few cycles of the key and no more cutting out. Thanks for the help guys. Justin

I eliminated a couple things yesterday, I pulled the exhaust down from the manifold and drove it thinking it was the catalytic converter, it still did the same thing. It has been getting a little worse too, now it won't run up past 2500. I could tell one thing with the exhaust off, when it reaches its limit the exhaust noise quits so I am thinking it is shutting spark off for some reason. I also pulled the AFM to take a look at it, it appears to be fine (didn't check as per FSM), I pulled the cover and it didn't have any corrosion at all. I checked the connector on the temperature sending unit, it looked fine. Keep the ideas coming please!

So I got some new information I am hoping will help diagnose the problem. I have been driving the car as normal since the trip when it started the surging and it seemed to be running ok except for a surge on occasion. Last night it started with the surging (more like cutting out) again and wouldn't rev over 3500. It would run up to 3500 and wouldn't take any more throttle after that, I could coax it up with very slight throttle increase but not more than 200 or 250 rpm. If I rev the engine in neutral or with the clutch down it revs to 5500 easily. I experimented a little by accelerating in 1st through 3rd and it won't rev past 3500, just stops pulling, no pops, no backfires, just stutters and stops pulling. So what do you guys think? Thanks

So I recently took a two hour trip with my NA 82 280ZX and it developed a surge in it about half way through the trip. It started as just a stutter running at 80 and progressively got worse, by the time I got to my destination it would barely maintain 60 up hills and buck when accelerating. I checked fuel filter and pump pressure and didn't find anything wrong, free flowing through the filter and had 34lbs running jumping to 40 when I open the throttle. On my return trip the car would maintain 80 but surge on the hills. Any ideas what would be causing this? My definition of a surge in this case is a slight drop in RPM (maybe 50-75 rpm) and a lack of power. Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

In my 82 280zx I am having some problems with the heat and air controls. When I accelerate quickly (vacuum drops) the air stops coming from the vents and gets diverted to the floor. I back off the throttle (increase system vacuum) and the air comes back to the vents. What is the main cause of this? It started when I had the drivers side knee panel off that has the vacuum switch on it for god only knows what, I tried swapping the lines around on it but it didn't do any good. Any recommendations? I suppose there is a check valve in the system somewhere (near the vacuum canister??) but I haven't looked yet. Also, I believe this to be a separate issue but the system will never go to defrost (air just barely comes out of the ducts with fan on high). Should I just replace the vacuum switch (the ac/heat/defrost/mix/floor one) or am I not thinking correctly? Thanks guys, assistance would be appreciated. I can deal with the air going to the floor when I stand on it but I kinda need the defrost cause it is getting cold. Thanks

The light is part of the gauge cluster to the left of the tach, it is the top light. In the owners manual it says it is the "exhaust gas sensor warning light." I will see if I can get a picture this afternoon.

Hey guys, 1982 280ZX questions. When I first got the car a while back the sensor light on the dash was on and I read in one of the manuals that I had to unplug a wire under the glove box to get it to go off, I found the wire and unplugged it and as advertised the light went off. My question is: is that an oxygen sensor light or a floor temp light? Reason I ask is because the exhaust smells like it is running rich all the time. And I had the fuel tank out the other day and didn't notice any floor temp sensor (I looked cause I was under there). I didn't see anything in the service manual that detailed testing the oxygen sensor. Whats your recommendations? Thanks

Nice Z bartman! Love the paint on the blue and black one and the use of louvers. Thanks for the link, looks like they have some useful stuff there, I will keep it in mind. I really am torn between fuel injection and carbed I guess right now it depends on if I can find a good donor car for complete FI system. Thanks

rsicard: I understand that there is a lot of tune-ability with EFI systems but like a lot of people I am on a budget and would like to get the most for my money. EFI systems in my eyes gets expensive quickly with only a small performance improvement. Carbed setups are virtually limitless as long as you start with good base parts. I am very confident in my engine and computer literacy as well as troubleshooting. Basically I just want a clean running, easy going engine with a little extra bite. Don't we all

Thanks for the help guys, I really like the idea of fuel injection for driveability coupled with performance but like the idea of tunability with the carbed engine (I realize tuning is possible with EFI but generally its much more expensive). Another question for you TPI guys, what are some realistic HP and torque numbers you are getting without many upgrades or custom modifications? Like stuff that doesn't require chip burning. Mild upgrade in cam and head modifications (to accomodate extra lift) etc. I have researched and heard lots of numbers but would like honest un-inflated by ego's numbers. Thanks

Ok guys, I am eventually going to do the V8 swap in my 72 240 and I am trying to decide on whether to go with a carbed 350 with a little weiand blower or like a TPI. My question is where are you TPI (or any EFI) guys putting your computers? Thanks, JJ

flatblack280, pm sent

Hey guys, looking for four (4) lug nuts for a 82 280ZX for the original 6 spoke alloy wheels. They are the kind with the washer and the rounded top. The shank is 3/4" and it is about 0.525 from the end of the nut to the face of the washer that faces the wheel. Shoot me an email at jusjofok@yahoo.com if you have anything. Thanks, Justin

Hi MostinMofia, welcome to the site. The first thing I would do would be remove the L24 from the interior of the car, obviously it doesn't belong there When you get all the parts out of the inside of the car you should take inventory of what all you have, also make note of the condition of each part. Next you should try to decide what engine you want back in the car especially if you have a "few laying around." You should also decide if you want to go with carburetion of FI and make sure you have all the parts needed for one or the other. Take your time!! I guarantee the car will turn out better if you take your time and think through everything/ learn about what you are doing before you do it. Don't fall in the trap of doing something "just for now" so you can drive it. Good luck!! Justin Oh yeah, if I don't say it someone else will, pics please, lots of pics...

Its the BCDD, I found a diagram of it in one of the manuals. The funny thing was that I could pinch the small line from the top of the intake off and the car would idle down. I removed and disassembled it, cleaned and reinstalled it and everything seems to be working fine now. I just marked the adjustment nut stud on the bottom and put it back where it was after the cleaning of the entire valve. The diaphrams were nice and pliable so I don't know what was up with it but it is working now. Thanks Justin

I learned something last night, turns out that the clock (its digital and a non turbo btw) and radio both run through the dome lamp fuse. I had the fuse out to keep from draining the battery (won't have enough to start after a couple days) and had no clock or radio with the ignition on, plug in the dome light fuse and walla, clock and radio. So as far as my checking has gone, last night I pulled the dome light timer (totally unplugged) and checked for draw at the battery, still there. Next I unplugged the power antenna connector, draw still there. I still don't know why the right door switch doesn't turn on the dome lamp either, I will have to check the wires from the switch to wherever they go. Ok my radio is the electronic tuner type, it is fairly intermittent. I get power to it but it won't always turn on or respond to any of the buttons, any ideas there? I hate to do it but I may end up replacing it with a modern one. As far as the wiring all being bad. In my opinion the wiring in this car is nearly pristine except for one spot under the hood that the mice got their dirty little mouths on. The rest is nice and pliable and I haven't found a corroded connection yet (but then again I have only inspected maybe a 10th of the wiring in this car so far). Keep the ideas coming, I love this forum! Justin

Thanks for the hints guys. This evening I will unplug the antenna and see if that takes care of the draw on the dome light circuit. I had the glove box out and turned the key to accessory and back to off while touching the accessory relay, it clicks but I didn't check to see if it was actually making contact on the switch side, I will swap them around and see if that helps. Justin

Excellent link Bmarchuk, you are right about the connection thing, I checked the voltmeter by taking it out of the dash and when its connected to the battery direct it works fine. However, I can't get the digital clock to work like that though I am curious if the accessory relay drives both the clock and the radio and for some reason it isn't making. HowlerMonkey, this car does have the dimmer, I will take it out of the circuit and see if I still have the draw, I am still leaning toward the wire from the right door switch to the dimmer though. The power antenna doesn't work either, its the only thing that hasn't worked at least once since I got the car.

Nice find! I might be interested in a few parts from the silver one when you decide to start parting it out. Justin

Forgot to mention one thing on the dome light part. The dome light works fine when you open the left door but when you open the right it doesn't work. I removed the switch and tested it and looked for chaffing in the wire, it is ok.

My 82 ZX has developed a couple electrical issues. First one is I get a small arc when I attach the battery cable to the battery, I pulled the fuses one at a time and tried the cable each time and narrowed it down to the dome lights. So my question is is there any place in the dome lamp system that is prone to shorting or chaffing that I should start? Second issue, my radio and clock only work part of the time, one time you start the car and everything is fine, next time nothing. Any ideas there? 3rd, my voltmeter needle stopped working, where is it tied into the system? The light still works in the guage just not the needle. Anyone have a link to a 280ZX wiring diagram? Thanks Justin