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About D1t

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    Chicago IL

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  1. I'm referring to the knuckles I'm building for 280z-LS3 and myself. I reamed out the pivot tube on the knuckle not the arm.
  2. I reamed the pivot tubes out to be a light sliding fit on the 5/8" pivot bolts with a hand reamer, they're ~0.627 right now and I'll do it again after welding to make sure they're still straight and cylindrical. The bolt shouldn't ever see the shear load unless the nut becomes loose, but it also helps make sure that your alignment doesn't change every time you take the rear end apart and put it back together.
  3. The forward rod end on that arm uses a concentric double adjuster (RH male thread on outside, LH female thread on outside) so I can avoid using a separate toe link while still being able to adjust the toe on the car. This avoids creating a buckling load in a toe link and allows the lower control arm to react some of the torque of the engine/brakes instead of passing all that load up to the strut mount and putting additional bending load into the strut.
  4. These numbers are all as-installed on 240z. Some of the images show the 2014 spindle and some show the 2015 because I had designed the complete 2014 kit before changing direction. Caster is adjustable by using spacers on the clevis where the rear link mounts to the chassis. 7 degrees of caster is quite a bit, but with zero scrub that's reasonable. There are definitely pro's to moving suspension points around by fabricating new mounts, but I wanted to leave all the stock mounting for a few reasons: Many competition classes restrict you to "stock suspension mounti
  5. Introduction Hi everyone, my name is Noah and I design all sorts of hotrod suspensions and chassis for a living, and have been using my 240z to play around with some of my more hair-brained ideas. I'm @noahdropkin on instagram if you want to see more of my over-engineered Z parts. I'm putting all this out there because I'm confident that nobody would actually take the time to reverse engineer what I've done here and turn it into a marketable kit, its just far too expensive to produce. You can go take the parts off a wrecked 2015 mustang and hack them up, I promise you it wont
  6. For future reference of anyone else doing T56 and the super 8.8, this is where I ended up, but always measure your own driveshaft.
  7. Aydin, if you do that your rear u joint won't have any angle on it, which it won't like. Excellent work Joe, hope you had fun with the seam sealer on those front shock towers
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