Shawn MacAnanny

Looking at the pictures, it looks like i can possibly weld my Carshop mounts to the frame rails on the Datsun rather than on the Kmember like all the adapter plates are doing? I plan on strengthing the chasis here and there once the engine is in but i think that the frame rails should be wrong enough to hold the torque of the engine.

Some info i snagged off of LS1tech Also depends on whether you will run ETC or cable throttle (no 58X GM items do the cable), what injectors you have/will run (early and late injector connectors are different), and......what CBM said, whether you are running an E auto or not. Simply: GM LS1A PCM > 24 X, cable throttle, integrated auto controller, stock type harnesses have LS1 injector connectors: EV1. GM LS1B PCM > 24 X, ETC (with seperate TAC module), integrated auto controller, stock type harnesses have LS1 injector connectors: EV1. GM E40 ECM > 24 X, ETC, seperate auto controller, stock type harnesses have LS2 style injector connectors: EV6. (E40 is not as widely used as LS1, E38 or E67 controllers.) GM E38 ECM > 58 X, ETC, seperate auto controller (A4's), stock type harnesses have LS2 style injector connectors: EV6. Also supports GM A6 with trans integrated controller. GM E67 ECM > 58 X, ETC, seperate auto controller (A4's), stock type harnesses have LS2 style injector connectors: EV6. Also supports GM A6 with trans integrated controller. GM Standalone: see E67. Does not support auto in native GM form. MAST: Does both 24X and 58X, A4 and A6, see MAST product info for deeper dive. Their M90 is a well thought out controller. FAST: see FAST product info. Other aftermarket: See their product info.

From what i understand everything with a front mount cam sensor has a 4x cam sensor which runs on the computer system that uses a 58x reluctor wheel. I could be wrong although im 99% sure. I know the LS4 i had had a 58x reluctor wheel, and 4x cam sensor. Anything with the 4/58 requires an MSD 6012 box to run carbureted, the 2/24 requires the 6010 box. Also another thing to check although not pictured is under the intake there wont be any knock sensors in the lifter valley, LS2 knock sensors are located on the sides of the block.

I had been searching for as many pictures of swaps as possible before i do mine. It will help me to get an idea of how i want to go about certain aspects of it. I have the JCI swap manual which had some pictures but not the specific ones i am looking for. Any pictures will do fine. I am specifically looking for engine mounts mounted in the car, on the block. I want to see the size of the engine in relation to the crossmember, the set back, the height etc. I also would like to see oil pan clearance pictures, steering rack clearance pictures. I would also like to see transmission tunnel pictures, crossmemmber pictures, exhaust pictures. Really any pictures i would greatly appreciate. You can email them to me at ShawnMacAnanny@earthlink.net or post them here for other members. Either works for me. Thank you guys! Shawn

The coils are the LS2/LS7 style from what i can tell by the connector and coil shape. Also look at the rear of the block there is no cam sensor just oil pressure sensor which means its on the front timing cover. This means it has a 4x cam wheel and a 58x crank reluctor wheel which means it's an LS2.

Going to pick up my 6.0L iron block next week. Then ill start collecting parts. I plan on using the Carshop mounts and making them work. Shouldnt be too hard i dont think.

Yeah its tempting but i would need the tranny and diferential to handle it plus i dont see me getting much tire under the rear of these cars. I'm running 315x30x15 MT et street radials and i can still spin them on my 68. These engines make some rediculous power.

Well that just makes it cheaper for me then. I'll use some Carshop mounts, make my own crossmember and strengthen the chasis as i see necessary. I'll jus thave dennys make me another driveshaft. Should only be about $400 but i know they are good. I paid $450 for a lifetime warranty one for my firebird no hp limit.

I never run rubber mounts. The poly mounts are a good alternative to solid mounts. I dont didnt want to run solid mounts because i wanted the tiniest bit if play to make the engine line up since i used a bolt in kit.

Yeah they look like just a standard SBC mount. I am running energy suspension ones on my 68 firebird. Alot of people run solid mounts with thier swaps.

I am starting a swap with a 99-00 all iron 6.0L LS1. They have the same 317 heads just cast as iron which will not remain on the engine. I am going to look at the engine her shortly and if all goes well buy it. Those year 6.0Ls also had a longer crank which are spaced for SBC style automatics so i will be running a manual 700r4 with the setup. I have been doing a little reading and it seems the easiest to just go with the JCI kit and i downloaded the word document with the step by step process. So i buy this $295 kit and that includes the extra braces, engine mounts etc and a drive shaft? That's it? I plan on using an LT1 radiator and fans set, they can be had very cheeply and work extremely well (thicker than the ls1 radiators). I'll keep this all updated with pics and such but progress will be slow as ill be gathering parts for the first few months.

Oh ok. I think i am going to go auto with my swap even though its less fun but will be cheaper until i can get ahold of a t56

Well i wasnt trying to make that specific one work with the engine i was going to use another T5 i have laying around being it would be the same size and length to use the stock driveshaft. Im bidding on a 6.0l right now though so i'll be acquiring an alternate transmisison anyway. What type of 5 speed do i have then? are they worth anything?

I'm getting ready to swap in a stock 5.3L LS1 (well lm7) and im wondering i have the T5 transmission. If i do i am thinking i can run a T5 behind the 5.3L as it should last for a litlte while, atleast until i can afford another T56 and driveshaft and all.

Ok well im an idiot haha i thought my meter was auto rang finding for some reason i didnt have the settings at the right values and rather than reading error or anything my meter just displayed infinite as if it werent connected at all. Stupid meter. The AFM seems to check out ok. I ordered another last night anyway. I'll compare the two and see how they check out.

I took the AFM off yesterday and its not testing right. I have no reading from the IAT, and i lose reading when the flap opens, and pin 6 does really give me any readings so i am pretty sure its bad. IT took it apart and it all looks fine cleaned it a little but to no avail.

Well i ordered some Caig DeoxIT but its backordered. Im going to try cleaning all of the connectors on the car. I am also going to buy a new AFM just to have a spare to 'tune' with. I have a dual wideband setup for my Firebid so i think im going to drill and weld an 02 bung to the exhaust and use it to tune this car since the AFM can be adjusted. I want to have an extra to be able to revert to if i mess it up. I'm going to buy a new coil today since mine looks very old, and order my cap and rotor since those 3 things are less than $40 and wont hurt it. My cap looks old, the rotor does but the car has new plug wires, new plugs, rebuilt head, new ECT, new connectors on the coolant sensors, new fuel filter. I am going to bump my idle timing up to 20degrees since my vacuum advance doesnt work. I had it advanced up to 25 with no change in idle quality so i figured the error lies somewhere else. One i get back from work im going to be testing all of the sensors i can. I put some injector cleaner in the tank (Guaranteed to pass emmissions cleaner) which ive found to be the absolute best, even better than seafoam for cleaning injectors. I've only run it about 10 minutes with 93 octance but it seems to have slighly helped the idle quality but there is still a major issue with it. do these cars have crank sensors? I have a mechanical distributor that fires my plugs. I'm not sure how the injectors know how ot fire though. I think i might spray down all my connectors with the cheepo electric parts cleaner i have until my DeoxIT gets here.

Ever fix the problem? I am having the same issue with my 78

Ok got the new balancer on, had the tiniest bit of surface rust on it so i sanded the inside lightly and added a tiny bit of grease. I tapped it in on little with the hammer and got about 2 threads of the bolt in and pulled it it on the rest of the way. The old pullyer was harder to remove than i thought. I just used a ball joint separater against the timing cover which i know is risky but it all turned out fine. Timing was 20 degrees without vaccum advance with the 'homemade' notch the previous mechanic put in it. I put it in the factory slot and it would only advance to about 2 degrees. I made my own tab and got it down to 10 degrees. Now when i hook the vacuum advance up i get NO advance at all. How come? Timing is not affect at all by hooking up the vacuum advance. I dont have a fancy timing light but around 3500rpm the timing maxes out and i would guess it somewhere between 35-40 degrees timing. I'm going to look at the vac lines tomorrow and i have an autometer vac gauge i am going to hook up and see what kind of vacuum in getting and at what lines. It looked like the vac line the vac advance was hooked into T'd into a vac line going to the TB which then ran to a vacuum canister of some sort.

Ok let me give you all a little advice when putting your plugs in the firing order. Even though you may check that your firing order is in the correct clockwise pattern 3 times, and all the wires are in the correct order, on that 4th time you might realize that the firing order is COUNTER clock wise. I started pulling wires from the distrubutor when it was running and #6 almost shut the engine off so then i realized i had the pattern reversed hahaha i know im an idiot. Have no idea how i ower looked it i even double checked it. oh well The engine is back to the stock timing it was at. Im going to isntall the new ballancer next since i already have it and it has one tick mark and also the AC belt provision even though im sure the ac compressor is locked up on this car. I drove it for about 3 minutes up and down my driveway and it has ALOT more power but still idle poorly and runs poorly below 2000rpm. I did add some "Guranteed to PAss Emmissions" injector cleaner to it which ive found to be the best injector cleaner (i had a set of 183,000 miles turbo injectors flowed from my 3000gt one time after i used it) and the car seem to be acting slightly better but it could just have been from it warming up and being run with the new plugs and fuel filter. I need to go get the car tagged and drive it around so i can minitor different things i try legally. Once i get the other balancer on hopefully ill be able ot see what the timing is at right now. The 5 or 6 tick marks on the one i have are a pain to read and i think its just going to be easier for my to remove the balancer than the valve cover since its keyed and doesny look like i need a puller for it.

Also i hooked a timing light to each spark plug wire and it blinked so they are getting some sort of power. I pulled a few wires from the distrubutor side and could see them arcing but it didnt change idle quality that much. What could be causing this horrible missing?

Well i put new plugs in it, put the distrubutor back the way it orgionally was and its missing horribly It sounds like it running on 4 cylinders and barely revs up. It's also backfiring through the exhaust. I am going by the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 and mine is not from 9 oclock its from 3 o clock but still the firing order should be the same right? Also replaced the fuel filter. From replacing the fuel filter and spark plugs (gapped to .040) i saw no change. All i have done from the time it was idling poorly to running on 4 cylinder sound was take out the distrubutor, try a couple different wire combinations (since the distrubutor wasnt fastened in the correct spot) and that it. I've tried turning the distrubutor both ways to see if it helps with the sputtering or anything it doesnt. It sems like it is just running on 4 cylinders or something.

Anyone know what the plug gap is supposed to be? plugs are BLACK and i fiddled with the timing. The distrubutor is 180* out so when the head was replace the cam got put back in 180 out. I fixed one plug wire that the tip cmae off of and used dielexctric grease on all of them. Also had ot use an 18" breaker bar to get them loose (and im not a little guy), i shattered one plug but the rest came out ok. This is why we always use never seize.

How do i line up #1 TDC without the mark on the balancer?

Oh intentions were to drop in a 550hp ish LS1. I am all about the ls1. Im making close to 550hp on stock, unported fbody cylinder heads, not even z06 heads. They make rediculous Hp and i get about 20mpg with my carbed ls1 and a 6 speed with 4.56s. I will read up on the efi bible though. thank you very much i was thinking it as sensor related. I did however start playing with the timing and someone cut a bunch of timing marks in the crank pulley so i have nothing to go off of. I did get another balancer with the car so i am going to install that. Also you know where the distrubutor bolts into the slot with the 10mm bolt in that adjustment slot? yeah whoever put it in decided that was too advanced so its now out of the slot with a washer and the distributor turns just counter clockwise of its origional location outside of the tab with a new hole drilled. I think that the wires may be off by one of the cap. I am not sure i havent worked on the engine more than ten minuts to see what the deal is.