Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Box5

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Staying creative

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I received the Tachometer today with a note saying "requires ECM input only," so big thanks to JCI for that. Also JCI came through with the 1.75" header revision, they look like the ticket now. Bought MSD 32829 Plug Wires. (narrow, bendable) Only tight boot clearance is Cylinder 7 (Drivers side Firewall) but there is a small air gap. I plan to lightly tap a dent for more airflow around the boot, but I believe JCI will revise that on future batches and these headers will be spot on for 280z LS guys. Cylinder 7 Cylinder 7 close up (small air gap but close) I can bend them away so might not even need a dent. Next closest boot is Cylinder 1 (Passenger front) but has a healthy air gap and I haven't bent the boot for more yet. All the rest fit like this with tons of clearance.
  2. With the JCI reworked tach, do I still need to run the LS tach signal wire through the stock resistor under the passenger dash?
  3. Bit of confusion with the header situation from JCI (thought i was getting 1.5's back, but I ended up getting a reworked 1-3/4" set. You can see the modified first primary to clear a spark plug and boot well (I'll get pics installed with MSD 8.5mm bendable boots tomorrow to show clearances). Still might dent the drivers side primary closest to the firewall (far right in the pic below), but it should be minimal and if JCI can touch that primary up on future batches these headers should be perfect for LS swaps in 280z's. Thanks I appreciate it. Good luck with your build, I'll keep an eye out for when you get going on it.
  4. JCI is sending his original 1.5" design once the fabricator finishes, hopefully this week. The 1.75" set was really nice but needs a drivers side redesign to work well in my opinion. There's plenty of clearance by the steering shaft to have all spark plugs fit with the 1.75" primaries, but it can't just be a single mandrel 90, the 1st primary would need a bend down then back to join the others, the dent was going to be massive I didn't want to restrict just one port. 1.5's should tide me over since I might do a cam eventually but nothing too crazy yet. It's part of his Vital Liquids set. He'll sell them individually though if you need just an adapter.
  5. Slow going, waiting on a header fix. Bought a low pro Accel boot but the dent required would have been too big for my liking. Hopefully getting a 1.5" set of headers. Bought a 12" Spal 30102038 Fan to run alongside the generic one that came with the Champion Radiator, had to cut out the shroud for the bigger fan but it mounted fine, hopefully can run it off the 30amp relay I have, we'll see. JCI Oil Pressure Sensor adapter (attaches to oil pan on drivers side) JCI Coolant Temp sensor bushing (replaces freeze plug on Drivers side of block) Both of them installed
  6. Lowest point of the new JCI header is flush with the bottom of the camaro oil pan (some inches higher than the frame rails). They're $425 shipped now. As for fitment, only issue so far is #3 plug wire. The sparkplug exits nearly pointing at the primary, so the plug wire boot has to bend into position and ends up smashed against the header. A 90 degree high temp plug wire might work, i'm not sure right now. I'm gonna fully mount it and see if I can remove the spark plug tonight. At the correct height to connect to the spark plug the boot hits the tube pretty well.
  7. JCI's 1-3/4" Headers arrived and look great. Hopefully test fit them today.
  8. Thanks, I saw a similar how to before but that one is much clearer. Sounds like we'll be guinea pigs for header fitment, lots of posts about JTR headers burning spark plug wires with the 1-3/4" primaries, hopefully these avoid that problem without needing special wires and heat shields.
  9. I'm not sure about collector size yet, hopefully 2-1/2". I'll ask more questions next time, it would be nice if the collector is in the same spot for guys with older headers to upgrade easily. This weekend my plan is to work out a maxifuse setup to delete the fusible links, and how to delete the voltage regulator, as well as find a good run/start hot wire, the little stuff i've been delaying, maybe bleed the clutch as well.
  10. Slow progress lately, waiting on JCI's new headers to be made. He made a prototype 1-3/4" design and once it passes fitment they should be on the way. Wiring is nearly complete (made a fuse block holder, still have to figure out the fusible link situation...) ODB2 Port is installed under passenger dash. Reverse Lockout Switch and Check engine LED installed on center console. Throttle Cable installed, with custom bracket. (Bought a 48" Lokar LS1 cable, and cut it length works great with stock pedal assembly) Lower Radiator Hose installed without any modification (thanks to EastTnZ's build for the part#) (This hose will fit -> Truck water pump + stock replacement radiator) Part# - Gates 22478
  11. Thanks Phantom, you were one of the main reasons I went with JCI's kit since you had such great things to say and it's stood the test of time so far. I'll update with an Air Filter part number soon that fits well, just sort dinking around on the Z while I wait for JCI's new 1-3/4" headers to be made.
  12. Pretty set on the old charcoal canister location (close to where it's at in the pic just above). Hopefully in a water resistant holder of some sort. Got a JTR LS1 T-Fitting with 1-5/16" in and 1-1/2" out with bleeder and 1/4" barb for the steam vent hose off the heads. Truck 5.3l water pump upper outlet is 1-5/16", the stock replacement Champion Radiator has 1-1/2" ports top and bottom so I had to reduce the top side only, the bottom outlet on the truck water pump is 1-1/2" so that's good (if I can find a shape to fit). Spent a while in the back of O'reilly's with wire bent in shapes for Radiator Hoses. The two I got for the upper splice/reduction (both gates numbers) 22155 (1-1/2") & 22436 (1-5/16") Highlighted the general sections I used. 22436 (1-5/16") Initial cut piece from water pump Connected to T-Fitting and 22155 (1-1/2") to Radiator Some shots from different angles Does anything think there will be a problem with the bleeder being below the highest point? The bend from the water pump is higher, and the heater hoses to the firewall are a lot higher. Started mocking up the intake, gotta cut the 3.5" aluminum tube and buy more (12" won't be enough).
  13. Thank DonH I spent last night thinning the harness completely of all unused wires, there was a lot of them. The harness is a lot easier to bend into positions now. The only connector i've had to lengthen was the Alternators 2 wire plug since Im using a low mount position. The truck harness had a 2 wire VSS plug to Pins 20, 21 so i'll chop that and solder in a T56 VSS pigtail I bought. Here's how the harness routed and temporary ECU placement (will need to make some sort of ECU mount). Fuse/Relay box will hopefully replace the Fusible link area next to it.
  14. Tonight did the swap from truck injector connectors to EV1 style using (https://www.psiconversion.com/products/pigtails-extensions/ls-vortec-pigtails/KIT-1012.html). The people at PSI are great, I screwed up my first two crimp terminals and they're sending a few more free of charge. Hopefully these pics will help someone else not follow my mistake. I learned quick to go slow and watch the crimp closely to keep it straight and even in the crimper as well. Truck Injector Connector Press in the metal tabs 2 places on both sides Pull it all apart Strip end (alongside EV1 connector and terminals) SLIDE WIRES THROUGH CONNECTER BODY NOW (I learned that the hard way and had to cut off two good crimps) The Conductor (bare wire) crimp I used 1.6mm, seemed to be real solid. The Insulation crimp I used 2.8mm. Aligning the Conductor crimp in the 1.6mm slot Bottomed it out for now just to get it evenly started Ready to crimp the conductor First one turned out ok, I think better crimpers would roll the metal over easier. Slowly crimping to keep it from twisting because it loves to Final Then they pull back into the connector and click into place
  • Create New...