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About Box5

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  1. If you can, get a ID size of the tank outlet port. The 7/16" hose is a tight fit so it may be 3/8" ID already. So far so good though, I haven't noticed it being a problem when I mash it on my stock LS setup, no big power mods (LS6 intake/injectors is about it). The limiting factor in my setup is the 6AN stainless braided PTFE, the ID of that measures out closer to 5/16", so with actual 3/8" ID line you'll be well off. The Baldwin pre-filter I got is extremely high flow, I wanted something to catch potential debris before the pump but I hear what you're saying with the more constrictive filters. The pump seems happy and quiet being mounted so low it chugs along well.
  2. Shotty vid, but you can at least hear how it sounds and see a little rip. It's tempting to slide every corner, everywhere. ZLS.mp4
  3. You did an amazing job from the looks of it, what a clean Z. I'm glad I could help, just passing on the information I learned here on HybridZ. That custom center console is really nice, did you have that done before the swap and adjust the shift boot, or just do it now? I like where you mounted the fuse block under the dash, that helps keep the inner fender clean on the passenger side. If I redo the wiring i'm gonna move the ECM and Fuse block inside to really clean up the engine bay and make maintenance that much easier. Love the subtle stripes in that paintjob too.
  4. Hey Whitley, Only mechanical updates/issues were a wobbly Harmonic Balancer after I drove for awhile (may have always been there but I spotted it recently). It's a higher mileage motor and i've been pushing it hard so that's understandable, got a new pulley and ARP bolt coming to hopefully take care of that. The car itself with this drivetrain is so much fun, it has the perfect power band for around town and country roads, and with the T56 3.54 diff it cruises so easily at 80-85mph on the highway. Next update will be a brake job and some new wheels/tires. Planning to go with 15x8 0 offset Enkeis with 225/50 tires. From what i've gathered they fit no flare Z's well without much issue and will be a big improvement over the current pizza cutters I have. My only handling complaint at the moment is with the tall skinny tires, I can feel them flex during heavy cornering but the upgraded 225/50r15's should help a lot. Overall, i've daily driven it to work on every dry day and had a blast. It's basically a streetbike on 4 wheels with how fast you can scoot around people.
  5. Sorry to hear you have fitment issues. Those appear to be the 2.75" tubes? I had to send mine back to be modified like the pic below. I'm surprised they sent out the original design knowing it had no chance to clear the #1 spark plug, or #7 plug like in your pics. Passenger side was never an issue, but Drivers side needed the jog on #1 primary (pic below), and #7 needed a dent or jog (I dented mine) because I wasn't going to send them back again.
  6. Thanks Richard. The exhaust was one of my favorites parts to do, i've never done a full one myself before so it was a nice test. Your Z is awesome, that looks really good and extremely clean, especially the 240z bumpers and air dam, love that look. Hope your LS swap goes off without a hitch, you're gonna love it. Where did you find your bumpers listed to get them from Vietnam?
  7. About time to ditch the crash bumpers now that it drives again. Interior somewhat sorted too. Spectre 6284 shift boot worked after modifying it but wouldn't recommend due to the custom nature of it. Working on a leather outer boot now. The shift ball is a trailer hitch modified (shift balls are pricey :X) one day i'll get a real one :D.
  8. Got the last bit done tonight, tucked as close to the diff as possible. Just need a couple hangers here and there and full weld it. *Got it fully welded and driving. The combo of Dynomax Bullet and Borla Pro XS are an amazing combo. Smooth deep and mellow at idle, comes alive with rpms but still smooth and deep with no rasp to note, very happy with those products. I was able to do the entire exhaust with just the mandrel bends listed above, didn't require any straight tubing.
  9. Got some time after work to start the exhaust. Tacked everything back to the bullet so far. Didn't end up needing the 2.5" straight piece, the mandrels above had enough straight sections. Tomorrow hopefully get the 3" section and muffler in place.
  10. The video was open headers but my next step this week is to fabricate an exhaust. Got a straight stick of 3" and 2.5" pipe along with the following parts: (My goal is for little to no drone, but still a nice deep rumble, so we'll see how this goes).
  11. Wiring is "complete" aside from shortening o2 sensor wires and lengthening the oil pressure wire. Grabbed IGN+ 12v from the Ignition Coil/Resistor since it's hot in Start + Run for the ECU. (Voltage dips between start/run but that's a split second). My car was an automatic so I grabbed a direct starter signal from the seat belt relay (near the fusible links on passenger fender) this takes the inhibitor switch and seat belt relay out of the question. To get rid of the voltage regulator I saved the #1 (Blue) charge indicator bulb wire in case I want that someday, then connected the #3 (Yellow) and #6 (Blue) wires on the car side of the voltage regulator plug for the brake warning relay to still work. The plug has 6 pins counting clockwise from the top. The rest of the wires ignored/removed. Maxi Fuse Block powering the 4 old fusible link body harness wires, second maxi block for alternator and engine harness, straight 4 gauge from the battery, 8 gauge to alternator. Intake complete with 3.5" aluminum tube K&N RE-0920 Filter (3.5" ID flange)
  12. Got some electrical parts to convert to maxi fuses and protect everything off the battery. Alternator wire will be 5ft long when installed (max current for that is about 125amps @13.8v) So with the 105 amp alternator it should be ok and with a 100 amp maxi on that wire.
  13. I received the Tachometer today with a note saying "requires ECM input only," so big thanks to JCI for that. Also JCI came through with the 1.75" header revision, they look like the ticket now. Bought MSD 32829 Plug Wires. (narrow, bendable) Only tight boot clearance is Cylinder 7 (Drivers side Firewall) but there is a small air gap. I plan to lightly tap a dent for more airflow around the boot, but I believe JCI will revise that on future batches and these headers will be spot on for 280z LS guys. Cylinder 7 Cylinder 7 close up (small air gap but close) I can bend them away so might not even need a dent. Next closest boot is Cylinder 1 (Passenger front) but has a healthy air gap and I haven't bent the boot for more yet. All the rest fit like this with tons of clearance.
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