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Everything posted by Box5
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Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Slow going, waiting on a header fix. Bought a low pro Accel boot but the dent required would have been too big for my liking. Hopefully getting a 1.5" set of headers. Bought a 12" Spal 30102038 Fan to run alongside the generic one that came with the Champion Radiator, had to cut out the shroud for the bigger fan but it mounted fine, hopefully can run it off the 30amp relay I have, we'll see. JCI Oil Pressure Sensor adapter (attaches to oil pan on drivers side) JCI Coolant Temp sensor bushing (replaces freeze plug on Drivers side of block) Both of them installed -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Lowest point of the new JCI header is flush with the bottom of the camaro oil pan (some inches higher than the frame rails). They're $425 shipped now. As for fitment, only issue so far is #3 plug wire. The sparkplug exits nearly pointing at the primary, so the plug wire boot has to bend into position and ends up smashed against the header. A 90 degree high temp plug wire might work, i'm not sure right now. I'm gonna fully mount it and see if I can remove the spark plug tonight. At the correct height to connect to the spark plug the boot hits the tube pretty well. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
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Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Thanks, I saw a similar how to before but that one is much clearer. Sounds like we'll be guinea pigs for header fitment, lots of posts about JTR headers burning spark plug wires with the 1-3/4" primaries, hopefully these avoid that problem without needing special wires and heat shields. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I'm not sure about collector size yet, hopefully 2-1/2". I'll ask more questions next time, it would be nice if the collector is in the same spot for guys with older headers to upgrade easily. This weekend my plan is to work out a maxifuse setup to delete the fusible links, and how to delete the voltage regulator, as well as find a good run/start hot wire, the little stuff i've been delaying, maybe bleed the clutch as well. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Slow progress lately, waiting on JCI's new headers to be made. He made a prototype 1-3/4" design and once it passes fitment they should be on the way. Wiring is nearly complete (made a fuse block holder, still have to figure out the fusible link situation...) ODB2 Port is installed under passenger dash. Reverse Lockout Switch and Check engine LED installed on center console. Throttle Cable installed, with custom bracket. (Bought a 48" Lokar LS1 cable, and cut it length works great with stock pedal assembly) Lower Radiator Hose installed without any modification (thanks to EastTnZ's build for the part#) (This hose will fit -> Truck water pump + stock replacement radiator) Part# - Gates 22478 -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Thanks Phantom, you were one of the main reasons I went with JCI's kit since you had such great things to say and it's stood the test of time so far. I'll update with an Air Filter part number soon that fits well, just sort dinking around on the Z while I wait for JCI's new 1-3/4" headers to be made. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Pretty set on the old charcoal canister location (close to where it's at in the pic just above). Hopefully in a water resistant holder of some sort. Got a JTR LS1 T-Fitting with 1-5/16" in and 1-1/2" out with bleeder and 1/4" barb for the steam vent hose off the heads. Truck 5.3l water pump upper outlet is 1-5/16", the stock replacement Champion Radiator has 1-1/2" ports top and bottom so I had to reduce the top side only, the bottom outlet on the truck water pump is 1-1/2" so that's good (if I can find a shape to fit). Spent a while in the back of O'reilly's with wire bent in shapes for Radiator Hoses. The two I got for the upper splice/reduction (both gates numbers) 22155 (1-1/2") & 22436 (1-5/16") Highlighted the general sections I used. 22436 (1-5/16") Initial cut piece from water pump Connected to T-Fitting and 22155 (1-1/2") to Radiator Some shots from different angles Does anything think there will be a problem with the bleeder being below the highest point? The bend from the water pump is higher, and the heater hoses to the firewall are a lot higher. Started mocking up the intake, gotta cut the 3.5" aluminum tube and buy more (12" won't be enough). -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Thank DonH I spent last night thinning the harness completely of all unused wires, there was a lot of them. The harness is a lot easier to bend into positions now. The only connector i've had to lengthen was the Alternators 2 wire plug since Im using a low mount position. The truck harness had a 2 wire VSS plug to Pins 20, 21 so i'll chop that and solder in a T56 VSS pigtail I bought. Here's how the harness routed and temporary ECU placement (will need to make some sort of ECU mount). Fuse/Relay box will hopefully replace the Fusible link area next to it. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Tonight did the swap from truck injector connectors to EV1 style using (https://www.psiconversion.com/products/pigtails-extensions/ls-vortec-pigtails/KIT-1012.html). The people at PSI are great, I screwed up my first two crimp terminals and they're sending a few more free of charge. Hopefully these pics will help someone else not follow my mistake. I learned quick to go slow and watch the crimp closely to keep it straight and even in the crimper as well. Truck Injector Connector Press in the metal tabs 2 places on both sides Pull it all apart Strip end (alongside EV1 connector and terminals) SLIDE WIRES THROUGH CONNECTER BODY NOW (I learned that the hard way and had to cut off two good crimps) The Conductor (bare wire) crimp I used 1.6mm, seemed to be real solid. The Insulation crimp I used 2.8mm. Aligning the Conductor crimp in the 1.6mm slot Bottomed it out for now just to get it evenly started Ready to crimp the conductor First one turned out ok, I think better crimpers would roll the metal over easier. Slowly crimping to keep it from twisting because it loves to Final Then they pull back into the connector and click into place -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Thanks Richard That's a good idea, this weekend i'll mock it up and see what's going on. Just checked over your thread, lookin great so far especially dealing with that rust which isn't easy. I saw your fuse/relay location but didn't see your ECU, do you have that mounted somewhere yet? -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Started thinning out the truck harness and got all the standalone wires labeled and ready for a relay/fuse panel. LT1Swap.com was a lifesaver, watched his youtube video and read the pinouts for my year as I went and it was extremely helpful. Thinking of mounting the ECM in the engine bay since the truck layout is a bit funky. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Got a Tilton 75-875U Clutch Master (7/8") (ordered a 90 degree -3AN male out the back to be able to mount the windshield washer bottle in the stock location) the upper nut that mounts the clutch master to the firewall is extremely tight, im gonna sacrifice a 12mm wrench cut it in half, and grind it thin which should work well. My car was an automatic so I needed to make a clutch pedal clevis out of some 1/8 inch flatbar with a 5/16"-24 nut welded on for the Tilton pushrod. For the intake I bought some silicone parts, made a diagram that might help someone in the future with sizes. (Using a Truck 5 wire MAF which is 3.75" in, 3.5" out) -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Installed a Champion 3-row Radiator with their fan/shroud combo . Found some Rubber insulators at the hardware store to buffer it . The Radiator comes with overflow tube guides, I had to bend them off to fit the shroud Used the Fans as a guide to drill and tap the Aluminum Shroud 1/4"-20 The Champion Radiator fit extremely well, the welds are great too. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Engine Mounted on JCI Mounts. The JCI kit so far as been great, everything lined up perfect and slipped right in with plenty of clearance at the front crossmember. -
It was the easy way out to find a stock one, but now i'm inspired to make one. Found some dimensions tonight, 1.3" long clevis without nut welded on. The other dimensions should be easy based off the pedal. @zedsn Thanks, i'll reply in case you do have one.
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Hey NewZed, thanks for reply, i'm just north of Seattle. I did see the new/reman units with the clevis, that might be the last resort, or make a custom clevis. The Tilton MC from what i've read comes with pushrod only, people seem to cut the nut off their stock Z clevis and weld a 5/16-24 nut in its place to match the Tilton Pushrod thread. I'll measure the hole on the clutch pedal for pin size, because these might work as well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buyers-Products-B27086A56ZKT-1-2-Clevis-Kit-with-Clevis-Cotter-Pin-5-16-24-NF-/232796637037 https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/64323/10002/-1.
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Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
R180 to R200 swap complete, new mustache poly bushings, Half Shaft u-joint, Ron tyler mount. I ground the energy suspension mount to contour the top of the diff, and it still dropped the nose of the diff .25", which hopefully leads to a good driveline angle with the T56. These pics remind me of how dirty everything is, but the function is solid! Cleaning and painting is not my forte at this moment. -
Hi, I'm swapping from an automatic to manual using a Tilton 7/8" Master Cylinder. Looking for a stock 280z clevis to adapt to the new Clutch Master Cylinder and pedal. Thanks
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TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z
Box5 replied to trackzpeed's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Very sexy build. I really enjoyed that last autox video you posted where you slid into that corner perfectly. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Fuel setup work tonight. 3" ID C-Channel fits perfectly over the fuel tank strap, tapped some 1/4-20's into it. The rest is 1x1 angle iron and 1" flatbar strut. Tapped a rubber spacer to rest against the gas tank on the far end. Strut pulls everything slightly forward to lock it in place Return line plumbed in, waiting on a 1/2" barb fitting for the inlet. Hopefully it works well at this level, it's as low as I felt comfortable getting it, might make a skid plate for it eventually. Got it plumbed together. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
I'll definitely keep this updated. Almost ready to install the motor/trans, that'll be big for me. The JCI kit uses rubber mounts on all points, that's a big reason I chose it as well, plus he's been a really nice guy to deal with. The kit comes with a rubber trans mount (any part# 2337 works), and passenger rubber mount setup. Trans Passenger side of block You need to buy the drivers side stock Camaro rubber mount separately (I used part# Powertorque B3064). Driver sides of Block -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
First mod I did to the dirty motor was mount the lsinnovations low mount alternator bracket Mounted it backwards with the lower bolt only Drilled/Tapped the engine block to m10x1.5 about 1" deep for the upper bolt. LS6 INTAKE READY TO INSTALL HAD TO MAKE A FEW SMALL ADJUSTMENTS TO MAKE IT FIT Bend the coolant steam vent forward slightly Twist the main Coolant return neck to the passenger side a bit(used a torch at the base of the neck and a rubber mallet) Bend the fuel inlet on the rail to clear the coil Old valley cover vs LS6 Valley cover (with pcv built in) Valley cover removed Installed LS6 valley cover and new knock sensors plugged the pcv port on the drivers valve cover at the rear. (this setup takes only one line from the ls6 pcv valley cover to the intake) Jumping around in my pics to get caught up Removed R180 to install a R200, R200 mustache bar and new poly mustache bushings. Cleaned old Mustache Bushings out to install Poly ones Installed new Luk Slave, 33" clutch line and fitting, as well as remote bleeder into T56 Removed Flexplate Installed Oilite Pilot Bushing Installed Flywheel + LS7 clutch Getting it all tied together Installed Camaro Oil pan/windage tray/pickup tube Started modding the truck manifolds, waiting until the engine is mounted before going further with that. Ground off the heat shield nubs (DON'T cut off the far right one very much, it's recessed out inside and I cut a hole that I had to weld back up. Thankfully this metal welds great with mild steel mig wire. Plan is to weld a small extension with o2 bungs, then V-band after that. That's pretty much where i'm at, I plan on painting the transmission ears today that I cut off, then test fit the motor at some point soon! Wiring has me a bit nervous, but hopefully it goes smoothly with some help from you guys. -
Relentless - 1977 280z LS (5.3l L59) swap
Box5 replied to Box5's topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Found this automatic Z with an incredibly clean body for a decent price so I jumped on it. Price was mainly due to the fact it grenaded both sides of the block and put a window in both sides, rod sticking out and all. So I pulled it with my buddy. Found some rust under the battery tray, and a crazy repair job (Z sheet metal is hard to deal with, but this repair was special) so I cut it all out and welded in some new metal, that's some tough welding. I lit the insulation on fire inside the car which caused a panic attack, so I stripped almost all of that out of the firewall passenger side to finish welding. Tried to do it in one piece, but ended up having to splice a second piece in Made a tray (used 1x1 angle to support it, not shown) Undercoated the bottom side of the patch, and bed lined the engine bay side just to plug any pinholes I missed while welding. Cleaned and painted the engine bay matte black. (tedious but therapeutic) Before: After: Installed JCI motor mount kit. Pretty straight forward, had to dremel the wheel well side of the compression rod "metal cup" to get the nut attached to secure that part of the motor mount. Drivers side: 12mm x 1.75 x 150mm bolt and lock nut needed to bolt engine to frame (not in JCI kit)(hardware store) 10mm x 1.5 x 40mm bolts for tranny rubber mount (not in JCI kit) Passenger Side: Installed new steering rack bushings while it was open Made a Ron Tyler style Diff mount Removed Transmission Mount Ears (still need to paint) Removed entire old fuel pump and lines (left the p-clip mounts along the frame rail to hold the brake line in them) Started mocking up the fuel system (walbro 255) (1x1 angle iron, with 3/4" spacers to make a equal plane for Pump and Pressure Regulator) The fuel tank upper port is 7/16", lower port is 5/16" (for anyone wondering). Ran some lengths of hose for now until I get pump mounted somewhere, most likely bolted to the drivers side fuel tank strap lower bracket. (i'll get pics later once installed) Installed a clutch pedal from a craigslist score (came with bushings, bolt, and pedal stop)...One of the hardest things i've done in my life, tight area up in there. Engine Arrived....(more to come) -
I call it relentless, because that's what it's taken to get this far. This project (LS swap) is no joke...not to discourage anyone wanting to do a LS swap, it's just a journey to be enjoyed. My hope is this will help a few people plan out their build or get one started. I've gotten 90% of my information from this site, so I say thank you to all who have contributed. Here's my Parts list so far: (i'll update this first post until it's driving)(Pics to follow) Car 1977 280z (started as automatic) Engine L59 5.3L Vortec - 2002 Chevy Avalanche JCI Parts Engine Mount Set - $295 Transmission Mount Set -$135 Driveshaft - $330 1.75" Headers - $425 Engine parts Spark Plug Wires (best fit for JCI headers) - MSD 32829 LS6 Intake/Fuel Rail/Injectors - Ebay 98-02' Camaro Oil Pan - $250 - 12628771 Camaro Oil Pan extras - $120 - Ebay Kit included: - Windage Tray - 12558253 - Oil Pump Pickup - 12558251 - Engine Oil Dipstick Tube - 12551577 - Engine Oil Dipstick - 12551581 - Oil Pump O-Ring - 12557752 LS6 valley cover (built in pcv) - $95 - 12577927 LS6 PCV Hose - $4.99 - 12594779 PCV Plug - $10.50 - 12568011 (Plugs driver side rear valve cover pcv port on truck motors) LS1 Intake Manifold Bolts - $19.99 - 650-020 (z-car depot) LS1 Intake manifold gaskets - $21.78 - Fel-Pro MS 92438 LS1 style injector plug pigtails - $12.99 - EV1-8 (ebay) (I might get new connector bodies and crimp new terminals, heard soldering could cause more resistance.) Alternator bracket, Low - $59.99 - ALT27 (lsxinnovations) (truck alternator + truck spacing) To drill Block for Alternator mount - 11/32" drill bit (hardware store or online) To tap Block for Alternator mount - 10mm X 1.5 Tap (hardware store or online) Serpentine Belt (fits low mount alternator with no other accessories) - $18.05 - Dayco 5060548 Ribbed idler Pulley - $14.49 - Dayco 89015 02' Camaro Clamshell Motor Mount - $25 Ecm Flash and program - $75 - Brendan @ LT1swap Transmission Tremec T56 - 2002 Camaro (LKQ) SDPC LS7 Clutch/Flywheel kit - $506.98 - SDLS7CK +Clutch Alignment tool - $6.99 - (addon to clutch kit ^) Pilot Bushing (Oilite Bronze) - $10.99 - National PB656HD -(alternative) Pilot Bearing - $18.85 - GM 14061685 Slave Cylinder - $44.16 - LuK LSC265B Fitting (slave to clutch line *attached to slave*) - $14.27 - Russell 640281 Clutch line (Master Cyl. to Slave) - $14.52 - Russell 655090 33" Remote Bleeder (*attached to Slave*) - $31.30 - Quarter Master 710105 (this worked, but I had to order the extra parts below to make it work) +10mm Crush Washer - 6173642 (speedway motors) +10mm x 1.5 to -3 AN Male- -$19.54 (washers + adapter) - 6174043 (speedway motors) Fuel System 7/16" Fuel Hose, Gas Tank to Fuel Pump - $12.65 - 5ft of PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 7/16" ID Hose Clamps, Gas tank to Fuel Pump - $5 - 7/16" Hose clamps 4pack Oreilly's (qty.2) Shutoff Valve, Before pre-filter(at gas tank) - $7.40 - SharkBite 22461LF (1/2" barb PEX) Fuel Filter (Pre-filter before fuel pump) - $13.43 - Baldwin BF7693 (100 micron) Fitting, Fuel Pump inlet (m10x1 to 8an male) - $8.75 - Walbro 128-3040 Fitting, Fuel Pump inlet barb (8an female to 1/2" barb) - $11 - JEGS 100847 Fuel pump kit - $88.98 - Walbro GSL392-400-939 Fitting, Fuel Pump outlet - $10.99 - Earl's 991953 (10mm x 1 Male to 6 AN Male) Fitting, 6AN straight coupler (between Pump and FPR fittings) - $10.22 - Russell 640000 Fitting, 3/8 hardline to 6AN (Fuel Rail and FPR (inlet)) - $9.99 - Russell 640850 (qty.2) Fuel Pressure Regulator - $62.25 - ACDelco GF822 Fitting, FPR outlet (to gas tank) - $8.11 - Dorman 800-120 5/16" Fuel Hose, Return line (FPR to Gas Tank) - $15.95 - 7ft of EFI Fuel Hose 30R9 5/16" I.D. (4 hose clamps included) Fitting, FPR outlet (to fuel rail) - $6.73 - Russell 640940 AN Fitting qty.2...... (to connect pump to fuel rail) Braided PTFE..... (" ") P-Clips..... Pending Fuel System Total: $274.70 Exhaust System 2.5" stainless v-band - $24.99 - Evil Energy (amazon) (qty. 2) Exhaust Manifold Bolts - $7.99 - Doorman 03413 Homemade Parts Ron Tyler R200 Diff mount - $0.00 - Labor + 1/4" plate Poly Diff Mount - $29.99 - Energy Suspension 3.1108G Random Parts Rear Output Seal (T56) - $16 - National 710426 T56 to Engine Block Bolts - $19 - GM 11515768 Knock sensor wire harness - $47.57 - 12601822 Knock sensor (x2) - $36.99 - 12589867 280z halfshalf u-joint - $26 - Neapco 1-0029 (drivetrainamerica)(fits well, includes low profile zerk fitting that also fits well) Mustache Bar Poly Bushings - $27.42 - Energy Suspension 7.1102G Steering Rack Bushings - $16.95 - Energy Suspension 7.10102G