fusion

@Invincibleextremes Vlad, your video showing how to swap the axles into the Mustang GT cv is down. Could you please put it back up? I ran into an issue and need to reassemble one of my axles. Or if it's deleted would you be willing to make another step by step video of the process? Also, just to clarify, the CVs need to be from 2015-2017 GT v8 cars or 2018 and newer GT v8 automatic transmission cars and can be either side? Thank you

Thanks Miles. I do have that book, I will check it out and I'll install the window frame before adjusting the glass again

I am putting the glass back in my 1976 280z after a restoration. I have the front and rear windshields installed and now I am starting with the driver's glass. I am able to get the glass inside the door and all the guides installed with the wheels in the channels. The 2 glass door bumpers are also installed. The glass seems to roll up and down reasonably. I do not have the window frame installed yet. Where I am getting hung up is that when I roll the window all the way down so the bottom of the door glass frame touches the rubber bumper at the bottom of the door and then start to roll back up, the rearward roller jumps out of the back of the track that is on the door glass frame. Edit: I cannot prevent the pictures from being upside down. Weird. Window rolled all the way down Starting to roll back up Roller jumped out of track Door glass I have tried adjusting the front glass guide and the rear regulator guide bolts that are on the inner door frame but other than trying to adjust the entire glass rearwards I'm not sure what to do. I was thinking that perhaps I need to install the window frame but didn't think that would help with the issue at the bottom of travel. Please let me know your comments.

Thanks jhm, I appreciate it

I am running into a slight problem with my Kia weatherstripping in the hatch. The spot where the weatherstripping runs over the hatch lift mounts is too tight and forces the weatherstrip to sit higher in that area. This is making my hatch not close correctly. I could either: 1) grind down the removable part of the mount. This might not even totally fix the problem as the non removable part may also be interfering 2) cut away the lower portion of the weatherstrip. This should alleviate the fitment issue but that small (~2") length would not be attached to the body. Has anyone else had this issue?

@Sam Henao, what's the status with Android phones? Will this be fully supported on any Android phones in the future?

Great info, thank you

Thanks Clark. Not sure how the rear toe can be set from the front spindles or rotors since my front toe is not set either. Usually the front is set off the rear. A real catch-22 if you need to set both the front and rear. I think the only way is from the centerline of the car.

@jhm, the key was doing it on the car. With the hatch off the car, I don't think it would have been possible. I did use the Cal style gaskets and I am happy with how they worked

Thanks for your comments, I did end up getting it to seat after a long battle.

Is the hatch glass much harder to install than the windshield? I am finishing up a 1976 280z build and am installing the glass. I have brand new gaskets from vintage rubber. The front windshield was a bit off a pain but got it on the first try. The hatch glass is seeming much more difficult. The hatch is off the car and I thought it would be easier to install off the car rather than on the car. I am using the same rope method. With the front windshield, I was able to slide the glass/gasket into the lower pinch weld and then use the rope to pull the gasket around the pinch weld and use hand pressure to walk it around the sides. With the hatch glass, I can't get it started on any sides of the pinch weld. The top and bottom are especially not very close. I really don't have a good game plan. I did have someone helping me. We gave up after about an hour and no real progress. When we got one side sort of close, the other side would be going the wrong direction. I am using 3/16" (4.8mm) rope. I have seen a couple videos online and they basically just set the glass/gasket into the opening, flip the hatch over and start pulling the rope. Looks super easy. Not sure why it's so hard for me. The glass did come out of this hatch, so I know it was in there before. The new gasket is very robust and I'm sure making it more difficult, but I believe vintage rubber is generally regarded as a quality manufacturer. The hatch is awkward to handle and manipulate which isn't helping either. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

Thanks for your comments, very insightful.

Thanks for your comments Cal. I am planning on doing it myself so sticking to simpler areas really increase the likelihood of it turning out well. The cost of the film isn't crazy high so if it does look bad after a while I could always remove it. But your comments are definitely valid

I recently painted my 280z and want to add paint protection film in key areas. The car is lowered and has wider tires with flares. What would be the key areas to cover? I'm assuming behind the rear tires from the bottom of the quarter to about 8" up, the rocker panels, the area behind the front tires on the fender from the bottom up to the body line, and the front valance/air dam. Does that sound right? Any other areas? Thanks

I have a 1976 280z that I am in the finishing stages of totally rebuilding from scratch. I have stock rear control but custom hub mounts and needed a way to set the toe and camber so I am using adjustable rear control arm bushings that allow for toe and camber adjustment. I understand how to adjust the bushings, but where I am struggling is a reference point to set the toe. It's my understanding that usually the front toe is set with reference to the rear. However, neither my front nor rear toe is set. Not sure the best way forward. I guess I could find the centerline of the car? The frame rails could be an option, however those have been replaced and might not be perfectly square. Any advice welcome. Thanks

Hello, I am in the process of putting my 280z back together after a ground up build. I want to tint the windows. Right now all the glass is out of the car. My thought was that I should get the quarter windows and hatch glass tinted before install since they sit in a rubber gasket and it would look better if the tint went all the way to the edge, under the gasket. I do worry, however, that putting the gaskets on and installing the glass after tinting may risk damaging the tint. Similar concern with the door glass, I would worry that if I had it tinted beforehand it would get scratched during install. Much more worry than the quarter or hatch glass. Wondering if anyone has input. Thanks

I am looking to replace my mirror. So, am I correct to assume that the reason the Hyundai mirror must be disassembled is because the ball cannot be removed and replaced with the Datsun ball from the backside? So basically you hack up one Hyundai mirror to harvest the glass intact, and then you smash out the glass in the other Hyundai housing, put the Z ball inside and replace with the good Hyundai glass? Is this still the best option? I saw that someone mentioned the early Sentra mirrors worked as-is but I can't find those either.

Has anyone replaced their original window cranks with more modern billet versions? What is the spline size for 280z? Was hoping to not have to spend a fortune.

Aydin, thanks for the comment. Yes I am aware of this and have made these adjustments before. I did end up determining that I didn't have the rack perfectly centered. Once I made the adjustment, I think I am OK now.

I put a new steering rack in my car that has right hand inner tie rods on both sides. I bought 2 MOOG ES2109R right side tie rods and they do fit but on the driver's side it's a bit too long and I don't have much adjustment ability. Also its pointed slightly forward as opposed to the passenger side where it points sightly rearward. What is everyone using for drivers side outer tie rod with right hand thread?

I'll check into other s30s in my area but given the fact that I tried fitting the hub onto 3 different shafts already I'm really thinking that something is wrong with the hub itself.

Cal, what you see in the splines is grease and I used it both for lubrication and also to show how far down the shaft the hub traveled.

Hello, I have a 76 280z. I am putting a momo 3503 hub adapter onto my steering shaft. Every video I've watched of people putting hub adapters on their s30 it seems they slide right on. Mine goes on very snug, but I can get it to go on about 6mm or so before it gets really hard. Maybe I could pound it on, but doesn't seem right and I don't know how I'd ever get it off. I have checked the splines on both the hub and shaft and they look OK. I even bought another hub and tried that with no success. I have 2 other steering shafts laying around and it's always the same thing. Is it possible both the hubs are bad? Bought both from Amazon (not 3rd party either, from Amazon directly). The splines on the Momo look cast (not machined) and perhaps that's the problem? Not sure where to go from here. I like the collapsible design of the Momo but may have to consider another brand. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks everyone for the comments

Thanks man. I had read that Nissan did use sealant from the factory, but it wasn't super clear. Also the sealant never hardens up, it remains soft, or at least it's supposed to.