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Everything posted by fusion

  1. Has anyone powder coated or painted the hatch or door locks? I am going to paint my chrome/stainless trim black on my 280z but didn't know about the locks, especially the hatch lock, given the fact that it pushes in. Thanks
  2. Thanks for the comments. I understand about having enough space so the tires don't bottom out. My question is how do you determine where to cut, when the tires hit the factory sheet metal before I can reach the bump stop.
  3. I saw these vents online, has anyone tried them? I saw that @psyber_0ptix had the very first prototype. Wondering if anyone else has tried them? https://trackspecmotorsports.com/datsun-240-280-z-hood-vent
  4. Thanks man, I appreciate it
  5. I am preparing to paint my 1976 280z. I am doing panel alignment and fitment while the body is still in primer so I can make adjustments if necessary. I am looking for some panel gap numbers from people to get an idea of the ranges. Even better if you have done your own panel fitment and adjustment. A maximum and minimum if possible for each spot. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body Thanks in advance
  6. Absolutely agree with the above. You shouldn't be spraying even Krylon without a respirator.
  7. Nice work. Any reason why you made the tube from the tension rod area to the firewall curved instead of straight?
  8. Thanks for the comments. I do have new wheels/tires for the car. As far as chassis stiffening, I do have the cage tied into the rear shock towers. I also have new box tubing frame rails, subframe connectors to the rear subframe, gussets to tie the rear subframe together better, tubing from the back of the tension control mounts to the firewall and tubing from the top of the fender horns back to the firewall. Unfortunately I don't have any room inside the engine compartment to add any other tubing to the strut towers. But this isn't a race car so I feel ok about it. I might add
  9. I was thinking about that but seems like it would be very difficult to get a good weld between the edge of 20ga sheet metal and a nut that is probably 6 times thicker.
  10. In the rear quarter panel, I should have specified.
  11. How are you accomplishing this with the inner fender in the way?
  12. I have done patch panels before. I could probably make it but not worth the time to me when I can just buy a panel that's already in the perfect shape. (I did already get a patch and welded it in) Also, not sure why anyone would attempt to make a patch without using any filler unless you're working on a DeLorean.
  13. Thanks for the comments. I am in the process of building it now. The drivetrain is done along with most of the body work. I got the car as a rolling shell and have never driven it. I just don't have the experience to know what stock parts can really benefit from upgrading. For example, I don't know if the stock moustache bar or stock front control arms are worth upgrading. Points taken on the front brakes. I'll definitely look to get something better. I am running 15" wheels so that is a consideration. I don't have a master cylinder picked out yet. I was looking at the
  14. Ah, yes, I forget to mention that I have subframe connectors and also added support bars to the inner front fender horns as well
  15. Car is a 1976 280z. 100% street car. In the middle of building it. Current drivetrain is a single turbo 5.3, t56 magnum, Ford super 8.8 rear diff with 2015 mustang rear disc brakes. 6 point roll bar. BC coilovers on all 4 corners. All poly bushings. I won't be tracking the car but it should have a lot of power and I do want it to be stable at speed and be able to put the power to the pavement. Trying to figure out the best things to upgrade suspension/brakes wise. Don't want to upgrade just for the sake of upgrading, but where it really makes a difference for street dri
  16. My 1976 280z driver's door has a unpullable dent at the top right where where the mirror bolts to it. It's in an extremely tight location and I don't think I can pound it out. Wondering if anyone has a rusty door that they could cut out a patch panel out of. I *think* any year 240-280 should work but not 100% sure.
  17. Thread the bolt in while welding so it makes it harder to lose shape
  18. That's basically what I was thinking. But all the images I've seen seem to show everyone making just one cut.
  19. I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z. I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links. My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop. However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch. There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out. But it's extremely hard to measure the di
  20. I am going to be mounting my flares soon and need to get the rivnuts. I have read a bunch of threads but was looking for some feedback. Aluminum Pros: won't rust. Easy to crimp down. Easy to drill out if needed. Cons: weak threads that can strip. Galvanic corrosion to steel body? Zinc plated steel Pros: strong. Somewhat easy to crimp down. Decent rust resistance? No galvanic corrosion? Able to be tack welded to body. Cons: not enough rust resistance? Stainless Pros: strong. Won't rust. Able to be tack welded to body Co
  21. I like to use a low power setting on my MIG and make a couple of small tacks next to, but not on, the hole. This acts as a heat sink. Then I do small tacks butting up to the heatsink and move subsequent tacks across the hole until it's filled in. If this method blows through the metal then it needs to be cut out anyways.
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