Mr.Roboto

+3 ive only seen them in fiberglass n carbonfiber ive also been debating on wether to get the type1 urethane ducted airdam or go with non ducted fiberglass because as far as i know nobody makes a nonducted urethane which is what i want =(

i pulled one of a zx and it had 7 pins while my 280z only had 5 the last 2pins are for the fuel pump i just jumpered it because i dont have a relay and my fuel pump ran constantly either way btw my car is not running so i dont know if the zx7pin afm are compatible with the earlier z afm's

is this the thread youre referring to? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/86493-msa-air-dam-types-for-all-of-you-that-ask/

you couldnt have said it any better... but i also dislike the murdered out cars on a budget i guess its safe to say "in my opinion" dont do it if youre not going to do it properly ie>rattlecans

i know nothing about powdercoating so excuse me for this noob question but after you coated the 13b in chrome how does the blue adhere to that? does the static charge still go through the chrome?

i second that, hahahahaha

BECAUSE......it looks MAD TYTE ...YO'

well i had a similar problem with mine i unplugged them to clean the filter tightened them back in; didnt work so i took it back out opened it up to see how it worked< fiddled with the internals a bit closed it then i tested it with battery then put it in one last time and it worked like fawkin magic.. maybe try cleaning the leads and make sure theyre tightened securely? or if you have a spare pump try that out.. im no expert but its just advice

i would've preferred thank you very much-o mr.ro-bo-to but anywho keep us posted with your build

this is a perfect example of a blacked out z

hope this image helps too... fellow z buddy(>o_o)>

but i believe a lot of things...

i believe i do..... http://www.birkey.com/technical-illustration/1972-datsun-240z-cutaway/

like hoov said this is by far the cheapest/easiest way in my book

ok heres an update that is actually a success, although i was beginning to lose hope after a couople minutes of drilling with my $20 bit that was merely scratching the bolt i just got a spur of the moment idea to use a regular metal drill bit again, so chose a 5/32 put 200lbs of man into it and i saw some shavings start to crawl up after a couple more mins i was about 1/4 in. deep which is about the depth the alden drill bit side will dig deep. So i then grabbed my #2 alden extractor, even though the manufacturer says to use the #3 bit for 5/16 bolts to me it seemed a little big so thats y i chose #2(and also because the 5/32 drill bit was the only fresh bit i had that wasnt oversized for the bolt). Anyways lets continue first i tried using a pair of vice grips and they kept slipping off the tool then a crescent wrench same thing happened because the bolt was torqued so hard so then i finally got a 1/4 in. socket on a 3/8 ratchet and gave a slow, careful, torquey twist heard the bolt break loose and out it came. overall i am happy with the results of this extractor even though the drill bit side didnt do much drilling on the bolt. at first i was concerned about how little the threads were sticking out on the extractor side but it proved to be a good product and it didnt SNAP so im happy. - i would also like to mention that i did some heating and banging before i drillled n extracted

heck it might even just be easier to somehow weld the T-housing on the head:P

has anyone had any experience using the harbor freight set it runs 8.99 for a set of 5 bits and extractors but the design is different than that of the autozone ones(9.99) and is very similar to the craftsman extractors which run 17.99 here is the harbor freight one it runs 8.99 and here is the craftsman one it runs 17.99 both very similar in design but how about quality? if anybody has tried these please commient now i really regret buying that set of 3 extractors for 19.99 when i couldve bought some craftsman for less or better just taken to the machine shop and have them deal with it, the main problem i see is drilling into hard metals like head bolts to make the hole to fit the extractor in. Im currently using a cordless drill although i did use an electric on the heads, also post any tips u might have -im using oil and going slow(er) rather than going fast idk if thats the right method? also what pricing do machine shops usually run to remove a bolt -i picked up my (alden pro grab it) set at home depot and while i was there i also saw a 5pc black n decker set for 9.99 but it looked like the same material as the autozone ones and very identical design so i opted not to grab that

hey phil love your vids just a quick quiestion do you or did u have any wheel spin at 15lbs on the hy35 and also do u dd it on the 25lbs im trying to decide if the hy35 is good enough to do about 15lbs daily and not have it poop out after a year

update...Pauls heat and bang method is a success however i still need to get the bolt thats flush with the block out im going to try this product oh and 1 more the infamous thermostat housing bolt..i tried removing this one first using autozone O.E.M. brand extractor they look something like this i dont have pics of the broken ones(yes i wrote ones because not only 1 broke..2 of them did.. but i got lucky with the first one and was able to remove it) cuz they got me so pissed i threw it as far i could:/..everything was going good i drilled the hole good then the extractor got snug gave it 1/2 turn more and SNAP it broke(chrome vanadium my a$$) inside the bolt causing this mess so now ill have to take it to the pros to have it welded, tapped and threaded... to be continued.. - yes i need to learn how to use the focus on the camera :/ dont hate

i know on the block there is, its on the driver side just above where the oil pain meets the block i forgot which side the # for the head was on..

well i just removed both manifolds as 1 piece but the engine was out...

oh and does anyone know what the things is on the right that looks like a waterbottle

maybe this picture will help you....

i have a very similar problem ive heard of people suggesting welding a nut to the ones where the shaft is sticking out and then just removing with a socket but since i dont have a welder i guess ill just try your method and beat it to death:beatdeadh and if that doesnt work ill bust out the PB Blaster and bolt extractor ill post my results after im finished 1 question it might be kind of obvious but before i go drilling and using the bolt extractor what would be your opinion for the one that is almost flush to the block surface?