Mr.Roboto

bump. Still looking for a driver in az..

correct i used the tailights of an image off of zeeboozt's hyperlink and the 280zx body is from an image off google -also note the image is just to give you a generalized idea of what it could look like. Since I did resize the tail lights the finished result is not scaled/accurate

like this ?

You can try and refurbish the tank yourself, eastwood sells a POR15 kit for like $75. The easiest way is problably not going to be switching out the spare tire well. 75-76 might be a little hard to come by. I believe the 75-76 tanks are different from the 77-78 tanks. The 77-78 are bigger because they fit under a space saver tire well therefore they wont bolt up to the full size tire well of a 76. $350 seems kind of overpriced but i dont know how remote your location is. A radiator shop charged me under $150 to clean the rust and line the inside of the tank.

Is there anything for the under 25 crowd, without a garaged household, and a large wallet. I dont mind the mileage limitations but most of the collector car insurances require you to have a garage and full coverage on a daily driver.(which in my case is in excess of 300 dollars a month, and its a 2000 ford ranger pickup...)

Looking for a clean dd 240z minimal to no rust. Id prefer it have a clean well running drivetain.

I don't know whether this is the correct section to post in, if not please move. I really like the look of a flared z. but I would like to know if this affects the value of a car. From an appraisors point of view is this a bad/negative thing for an original car with no previous bodywork?

Looking to buy a 240z in az or ca basically DD ready. As rust free as can be... I would prefer something with a few modern upgrades . Most important thing to me is for it to have a good reliable running drivetrain. Clean Engine bay, Coilovers, or triple webbers are a plus. Paint isnt really an issue as long as its not something requiring serious fab/bodywork. Again this all depends on what youre asking for your car. I prefer cars that dont have fiberglassed on things such as spoilers or flares. Will consider cars with swaps only if they are of the same manufacturer [Nissan/datsun] I can spend from 2-7k depending on the car. I dont really want to travel too far for it but will consider the other states neighboring az if i find a clean one. These are just preferences, my options are open so dont be afraid to pm me.

I suppose I could reconsider getting another 280 if I dont find any 240z's forgot to add m/t a must!

Looking for a running/dd ready 240z. Basically a running fixer upper. Might consider a small road trip through az for the right car otherwise the closer to phoenix the better. Not interested in v8 swaps only L series. Of course nothing with severe rust or body work.

dual carbs w/linkage, manifold basically everything to swap into an l28 . If you have triple webers or something ill look into that too.

I have this one for sale if youre willing to pick up. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99148-1977-280z-l28et/

My suggestion is to do the ecu pin test for your water temp sensor and make sure it reads good. Double check that your temp sensor and thermotime are not plugged in backwards. The temp sensor should be black wires and time should be green wiring. That is what was causing mine to backfire out of intake.

]Yeah he used the adhesive because the rear quarters were replaced with fiberglass skins, you cant weld fiberglass. Ive been looking at his other videos with some other cars that look pretty good. I believe he just lacked the experience/knowledge of how to install the flares correctly.

Didn't u hear? He clearly states at 0:09 that it's a 260z.

You know whats not fair? The fact that I don't even have a garage

Heres one i really like, contact Sparks280zt for color code

Well if you had your tank proffessionally cleaned and its spotless and new inside then there shouldnt really be a need for that filter. I am not using this setup currently, I used it after I did a backyard cleaning of the tank so it wouldn't clog the tiny filter inside the fuel pump. I guess your aftermarket fuel pump may have a bigger inlet. People recommend the g3 because it almost snaps into place with the 3/8th connections. As for filters most are 5/16 or 3/8ths.

I suppose you could use something like this.... http://shop1.actinicexpress.co.uk/shops/Rat_Sport/images/catalog/Hose_Adapter.JPG that could be sold at your local hardware store or automotive store. But just remember that all this stuff is also creating a restriction. You may also want to replace this hose alltogether while youre at it with the correct size fuel hose.

wait.. i forgot its a Z!!

You dont "have" to but it is a good idea to install one to prevent rust particles flowing through your efi system... hmm im not an expert by any means but i would suggest to just use them temporarily until u dont see any rust/dirt particles in the clear g3 filter. Here is a great install page http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

The first thing that you notice on the car are the 18"x8.5 front and 18"x10.5 rear SSR Professor MS1 wheels. dont know about ride height...

+3 ive only seen them in fiberglass n carbonfiber ive also been debating on wether to get the type1 urethane ducted airdam or go with non ducted fiberglass because as far as i know nobody makes a nonducted urethane which is what i want =(

i pulled one of a zx and it had 7 pins while my 280z only had 5 the last 2pins are for the fuel pump i just jumpered it because i dont have a relay and my fuel pump ran constantly either way btw my car is not running so i dont know if the zx7pin afm are compatible with the earlier z afm's