BoulderCharles

I have the power steering in my 280z and it clears fine. The unit sits internal so it won't interfere with the headers. It was actually quite simple to install.

I have the Apex Engineered front suspension, which comes with LS mounts. I then used Hawks Motorsports T56 trans mount, which is nice but requires a bit of work to get it mounted as the 280z floor pans aren't flat so I wasn't able to just put a flat metal plate on the floorboard to mount the bracket (I ended up with a few smaller mounting plates cut to match the countours of the floor). I'm not sure how the CX Racing trans mount would work given the space but it could be worth a shot. A few other notes for you...I used a few Hawks components for the swap, in case your interested (definitely get the remote bleeder!). The short throw shifter repositions the shifter into the Datsun shifter hole. 1300-044-019 Tremec T56 Rear Output Seal, 2004-2006 GTO #A45 1 HT-DATTC Transmission Crossmember, Datsun 70-78 S30 LSx Conversion, 6 Speed 1 CBW-062 93-02 Camaro/Firebird HAWKS T56 6-Speed Billet Short Throw Shifter 1 HT-FBODYMRSBL Line, LS1 F-Body, Corvette C5 & Z06, 04-06 GTO Remote Clutch Speed Bleeder Line 1 1386-598-016 Tremec T56 Offset Lever w/ Shifter Cup Bushing (F-Body/Cobra/Viper) 1 Good luck! Let me know if you have other questions.

I wanted to share my experience with the CX Racing exhaust for my LS2 swap as I saw a lot of mixed reviews when I was looking. Overall, I have been really impressed. I’m not a fabricator but the build quality looks really good and shipping was super fast. The headers fit really well (which was a relief after spending a lot of time trying to find other options, including the JTR headers, which didn’t fit with my LS2 in a 1977 280z) and the rest of the exhaust lands right where it needs to be. The only tricky part was the hanger situation. They were just slightly off from where I needed them to be so I ended up making my own, which wasn’t too bad. Now I just have to figure out why the muffler raises up just a little when the engine warms up...something is moving around. LMK if you have ideas.

I decided to keep the EVAP system on my LS2 swap to avoid the gas fumes in my garage. I thought I would share my experience in case others wanted to try the same thing. Overall, it was fairly simple. I got my LS2 from a 2005 Pontiac GTO so I just went ahead and bought the following for a 2005 GTO: EVAP Purge Solenoid (relocated to the firewall) EVAP Vent Solenoid (inside the hatch area, where the Datsun charcoal canister was) Charcoal canister (mounted near the gas tank under the car) GM MAP sensor (for the fuel tank pressure) Here’s how I put this together (if I missed something, feel free to let me know): I have a Tanks, Inc. fuel tank so I had one NPT vent fitting and a small vent on the fuel pump. I used the NPT vent fitting (with a tee) for the filler neck vent and the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister has an output for the EVAP vent and one to the motor. I just ran a fuel hose from the canister to the purge valve at the motor. At the motor, I used the GM purge solenoid, mounted at the firewall, then sent it to the throttle body. The tricky part was the fuel tank pressure sensor. In the 2005 GTO it is built into the fuel pump. I realized the tank pressure sensor uses the same 5V signal as a MAP sensor and guessed that the ECU wouldn’t know the difference, which worked out. I attached the MAP sensor to the fuel pump vent with a short peice of tubing. Wired everything up to the ECU. I know it’s a bit of a “can I make this work” exercise but it is fun to know it can work.

A quick update on this. I decided it's not worth waiting any longer so I called up T3 and ordered a pair of their axle shafts, which will arrive in just a few days. Apex only refunded $200 for the axle shafts (the T3 shafts cost $500) so that is disappointing but, honestly, worth it just to be done with this whole situation.

**** New thoughts from Feb 2023: I've come back to this post a few years later and with a few more interactions with Ohm and Apex and want to share my current perspective, which is that Apex has clearly improved their business management processes and shouldn't be judged too harshly based on my experience from 2020. I worked with Apex just as they were starting and I can imagine it's very challenging to get a fabrication business off the ground. Now that they have been around a few years I encourage you to consider more recent reviews and experiences rather than rely on mine alone. **** Abbreviated thoughts on my experience from 2020 (just as Apex launched): The Good: I have the front and rear suspension and they look great. The install was surprisingly easy--the suspension fit without the need for any modification or "persuasion." The Bad: Unavailable axle shafts, design/build mistakes, and frustrating customer service.

I've read a lot of front flare installation posts but haven't seen any comments about reinforcing the front fender after cutting the existing fender away. Is reinforcement necessary? With the fender off the car it feels like most of the structure would be lost but I realize it may be fine once bolted back up. Thanks in advance!

By the way, my Z has been stripped and most of the body work completed. Everything looked really good, just a few patches here and there plus a new front fender (someone had tried to fix it before and messed up the job). Thanks again for your help!

Thanks again for all of the help. I bought the car this weekend and the body is in great shape. Now the real work begins!

Thanks for all of the really helpful responses! The owner wants $3,000 (engine doesn't run well, it's an automatic, and the interior is pretty trashed). I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't put more into body work than it costs to by a better sorted version. My goal is to make a canyon carver so new suspension, engine/trans/LS diff swap, etc. Any thoughts on that plan?

I'm looking for a 240/260/280z project car and could use the forum's collective knowledge on a 280z I found. I know to expect some rust on a '77 Datsun (and with this car I would be OK spending up to $10k for rust repair and paint) but I want to make sure I'm not missing major red flags. What do you think about the vehicle shown here? A friend mentioned that the area where the control arm mounts looks like it is separating and the seams down the side looks like it has filler (and there may be some rusting through around there). And, yes, I know it's impossible to know for sure without seeing it in person. I honestly just want to know if it's worth dragging my mechanic friend across town to see the car. Thanks!