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chatapokai

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About chatapokai

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    Allentown, PA
  1. @seattlejester super helpful and I'm glad you didnt talk me out of it. Update: I've been slowly gathering the parts needed to swap to carbs. Just finished grad school so I can finally jump into this more. The following is what I've done to this point: Removed L26 and started cleaning up the engine bay (removing surface rust and will start painting the bay) Started rebuilding the 2jz. The head is almost off and I will be doing the following Cold compression test got me values from 135-150 so it seems ok considering the motor was not hot and expanded according to some na-T supra/sc300 friends I have Changing every gasket possible. Going to buy an OEM gasket kit and swap everything out (head/front and rear main seals/valve cover, stem seals, etc) I'm not out for power so OEM will be ok. Water pump and alternator will be changed, not sure about oil pump yet. Will be upgrading to ARP studs since I liked them so much on my mr2 Might get a solid crank pulley instead of reusing the harmonic balancer (unsure) EGR deleted, with 9/16th expansion plug Purchased a set of 6 GSXR carbs and manifold to bolt them to the head (They look so good https://www.instagram.com/p/CFvE_cbnlXe/?igshid=dv6y0l5nxurb) Sold the AR5 for a nice profit and got a cheap w58 trans. I can now use a stock sc300 slave and clutch to run the car Bought an interrupter style motorcycle fuel pump so I dont have to run a return line back to the tank (so glad the carbs only need 4psi to run) Talking with123ignition to see if I can get a programmable alternator Next Steps once the engine is built up and bay is painted: Install the apexengineered subframe Going to get the universal wiring harness from zcardepot (https://zcardepot.com/products/wiring-harness-universal-240z-260z-280z-510) and I will be splicing the 2jz accessories to it (hope that works, Im assuming splicing the 2jz alternator, starter, ignition coil, bike pump, etc to the new s30 harness should work???) Find a 2jz to W58 bellhousing somewhere....then ill be able to measure for the trans mount I'll stop there but I'm pretty happy. So far it looks like splicing that universal harness will be my best bet for keeping it simple while still upgrading to a modern fusebox.
  2. @seattlejester So I've decided to pursue the carb route. I still have a month left of grad school but I have started tearing the 260z apart and rebuilding the 2j when I can. I just removed all the accessories and am about to crack open the head and pan to see the condition of the cylinder walls and rod bearings. I'm 90% leaning towards the VW/Porsche 40IDF carbs and cutting a rectangle down the driver side of the hood so the stacks peek through. Should look and sound pretty cool. As for the ignition. I found a company that makes dizzys that can be programmed via bluetooth. I think I'm going to send them what I have and see what they can do. I hope it works because I really dont want to deal with a crank trigger wheel and an ignition box.
  3. Update: did some research and I think I'm going to try a Toyota 5mge distributor before trying the crank trigger/megajolt solution. It has a vacuum advance, the firing order is the same, and the gear size looks pretty close to the stock 2j dizzy. I might be able to make it fit with minor modification. Worth the $40 for trying. I'm also heavily researching carbs. My 2 options are modifying Honda or minkuni bike carbs or getting 3x empi vw 40idfs. It'll depend on whether the dizzy fits.
  4. The ecu would indeed need the map sensor etc to run and would throw a code as the efi would not be connected likely running on limp mode. Im 98% sure it is a distributor type cas. The timing is my only stopping point. I believe I'll be able to at least get it to idle with the stock dist. Right now I'm still cleaning up the motor but i think I'll be getting a trio of chinese 40mm idf carbs or 6x 40mm honda bike carbs and trying it out. If it cranks over and runs then I might move on to trying to modify a distributor, or getting a timing control box. Problem is that I have no idea where to get one or how to hook it up. I assume its a box i can wire to the stock dist and vacuum lines and program. Maybe msd has a solution? I know the 4age guys can use another model distributor but I don't think i have that option. I've seen one other person try it, but they hooked up a crank trigger wheel to a timing control box (megajolt?) and a ford v6 edis system. Maybe that'll be my last resort bc i really really want to do this.
  5. While putting together the 2j for the s30 I thought about how cool this thing would sound with ITBs or carbs....and then really started thinking about the possibilities: ITBs would be really cool but I would need an aftermarket ECU (~$1000+$300 for tuning) and the ITBs themselves ($2000 from EFI). Awesome but 3k on top of what the 2j swap and s30 upgrades will cost is a lot (not counting what an aftermarket loom would cost). But what about carbs? I've seen people carb RBs and LSs before, so why not a 2j? So I did some digging and research. Looks like it's not uncommon for people to delete the efi/ecu from some builds for a carb. 1. I can fab the intake manifold (~$250-$300) from a very good fabricator near me) to hold the carburetors (free from a friend) 2. The s30 gas tank can be reused and hooked up to an electronic low pressure fuel pump (~3-5psi) and then hooked to the carbs 3. The 2j has a distributor, but it hooks up to the ECU. I would need to find a way to replace the electronic advance (maybe an msd box? Some sort of ignition control is needed). 4. The starter, alternator, pump and ignition could would hook up to the battery. Outside of tuning the carbs it seems doable and I would honestly be much happier with this build as it's much more representative of the 70s. It's the exact build I had in mind. I found an example of this being done: https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=8336 Looks like they used a cam trigger and Ford EDIS but I was hoping to reuse the distributor if I go forward with this. Thoughts? Ideas? Comments? I'm really hoping this is feasible but the ignition seems to be my only stopping point.
  6. All this is seriously helpful. Then I'll just how to figure out the fuel pump relay wiring. Not that it's difficult, but I've never done it before. Then I might just look for a suitable tank and use the corresponding stock fuel pump as well as replace the s30 fuel lines with braided ones. So I'm not as worried about fueling anymore. Wiring-wise, I think it'll be worth going professional loom. I plan on using the stock ecu for the first couple years and once the s30 runs and drives reliably, I'd love to tinker with ITBs and a better ECU (but that's way future). I've been taking the 2j apart and cleaning/maintaining it. I just bought the waterpump and for sure will be going the pully/tensioner etc. I don't see why I wouldn't do the crank pulley since it's on a stand, so I'll add that to the to/do list (not sure if I'm doing hg, but if I do I might do ARP bolts and MLS hg even though it's not boosted). I have no upgrades planned, though I'll be googling egr block off plates, I'll need to research what else can be deleted off a 2j for simplicity. I think you're right and e-fans will be the way to go. If for some reason I cannot get the temp sensor and relay to connect, I could just have them always on. All I have right now is an empty shell and a but load of parts, so I'll have a lot of wiring to figure out for the dash lol Thanks bud
  7. Thanks for the response and sorry for not responding sooner! (didn't get a notification). So what did you use for a tank? I just want to reflect the OEM FPI cause I want to build it as a 250ish hp cruiser -- but I'm guessing I'll need an aftermarket pump if I run the mustang tank. I will definitely be using braided lines w/ AN fittings for safety and reliability. I'm put off by using a fuel cell cause I want usable trunk space (plus heat from the sun). I'll be trying to keep it as stock as possible, which might require a lightweight flywheel -- but I have no problem using OEM Toyota setup then modifying it later if I feel it too heavy. But stock shouldn't present a problem right? Made a couple calls and I think it'll worth the 1k for a custom harness. Might as well build it right the first time. I'm rebuilding the whole engine as it's on a stand right now. Water pump, seals, head gasket, timing belt, etc. Thank you for your response!!
  8. Hello, Been looking for years and I finally came into possession of a motor-less 260z that i want to swap a non-turbo 2jz into. I've swapped an engine before but it was the same type of motor (blown 3s-gte swapped for one I built-up in my 91 mr2). So I'm trying to compile a to-do/to-find list for what I need for the swap, so far this is what I have and want to use: Have: -A buddy sold me a rear-sump sc300 2jzge and I was able to get a AR5 transmission for cheap as well Planned: -ApexEngineered front crossmember and JZ mounts -1jz bellhousing (for the ar5) -SN95 Mustang gas tank + fuel pump -JDM 2jz ecu for now (haltech or megasquirt later) -Better wiring harness later in life -JZ clutch fan -3 core radiator Unknown: -Will the 260z master cylinder need to be used? Or would I need another manufacture? -Do I need to run new fuel lines from the tank? I know I'm missing some things and was hoping that someone with more experience can shed some light as to what else I need.
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