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Found 16 results

  1. Apologies, I included a special character in my last thread title and it corrupted the page. I can’t seem to delete it, sorry! See repost below ———————————————————— Hey all, Hope you’re good. I’ve been browsing the HybridZ forums a bit but I’ve not managed to find anything specific to the swap that I’m doing. I have a LHD 1977 280z and a 2JZ-GTE VVTi and not sure whether to mate with either a T56 Magnum F or a CD009. Please feel free to direct me to a thread which can answer what I’m outlining below! These would be my two options both brand new. Grannas T56 Magnum F kit or the Collins/Autosports/SerialNine CD009 adapter kits.. Gear T-56 F CD009 1st 2.66 3.78 2nd 1.78 2.32 3rd 1.30 1.62 4th 1.00 1.27 5th 0.80 1.00 6th 0.63 0.79 I’m based in West Sussex, UK with a LHD 1977 280Z. Lots of twisty roads and sharp turns round here... Not really too fussed about cruising and fuel economy as this will not be a daily. I’ll be looking to build my Z primarily for spirited driving and to be able to take on track occasionally. I will be doing a single turbo conversion and looking to push around 500-600 bhp max. I have to say I am leaning more towards the CD009 because of parts availability, it is also cheaper too. But will need some work done to fit in the tunnel nicely, so I’ve read. My indecision is when it comes to drivability. I’m really stuck between both CD009 and T56 Magnum F (close ratio version) and what would be better suited to what I want to build the car for based on the conditions above (I guess for the type of roads over here and the tracks we have, shorter gears are better?) I’m also quite unsure on which diff I should go for that will get the most out of whatever transmission I decide on. Do you guys have any thoughts as to what is the best pairing would be for the 2JZ in terms of transmission and diff? Can I stick with the long nose R200? Or do a SN R200 conversion, 8.8 conversion… etc. Just trying to really narrow down those options too. There are a few bits that’s I’ve read about each transmission but I haven’t managed to find technical pros and cons/justifications that is specific to my chassis and swap. I’m not sure how much of that information I can take to crossover with my build so I just would rather ask to make sure. Please let me know if you need any more info from me! Thank you very much. Raman
  2. So I've been debating pulling the trigger or not and have finally found my favorite year of the 280z's and i must say in decent condition with minimal rust and for $2,000 must say it was definitely a good find. On to the details..The frame has 53,909 original miles and came with vin matching Motor and Transmission (4spd) previous owner also threw in a 5spd transmission. The motor was rebuilt using flat top high compression pistons, all work done by previous owner. Most of the rust found on the car was surface rust but no real rust except from the Radiator support in the front which seems to be a bit more severe. The interior is complete although the car has a missing front windshield so the interior has gone to shit but the good news the floor panels seem to be in great condition, found no holes on the underside of the car. Now onto the Project - My intentions are to do a 2JZGTE VVTi swap with the Getrag v161 6 speed transmission and a ford 8.8 differential (still haven't decided on gearing). I know in order to surpass the 1000whp mark I'm going to need to increase head flow, pistons, rods, springs, valves (3 angle valve job), retainers, cams, single turbo exhaust manifold and lastly the turbo still debating but will AT LEAST be starting with a 72-85. As far as suspension goes definitely open to suggestions. ....and some pictures
  3. So after about 4 years of collecting parts, im finally ready to do the swap! Been driving the car a few years as an L28 and it was really fun. Got to learn the car and really appreciate the L-series motor. Kinda wish I had more than one z so I could listen to the L28 roar on the highway. So in December pulled the motor and right around April-May I started working on the car full force daily. So some details: 2jzge from a 94 supra, head had burnt up valves and got the whole motor and wiring harness for $500 NA-T swap is very simple Twin turbo head gasket oem is perfect, ARP head studs and drill hole in oil pan for turbo return as well as get oil feed from the oil filter union bolt. Simple enough really. I have other threads about the swap and some basic info. So using a 350z trans, Collins adapters for clutch, OEM TT headgasket, ebay china turbo manifold, front facing manifold I got from a local, ARP headstuds, custom front mount intercool from a local, tial wastegate and BOV, Holset HE351cw turbo, 1000cc injector dynamics injectors,custom mounts that use the stock motor mounts, wiring specialties harness, AEM V1 ecu, and 17gallon fuel cell with -6an feed and return lines. Had to get rid of the log manifold just didnt work with my turbo it was hitting the strut tower. Much more progress needed. Like fitting the new ebay mani once its in. installing trans mount and welding it up . plus test fitting it again. Waiting for my injectors, fuel rail, some gaskets, and it should be going together within the next few weeks.
  4. Hello, Been looking for years and I finally came into possession of a motor-less 260z that i want to swap a non-turbo 2jz into. I've swapped an engine before but it was the same type of motor (blown 3s-gte swapped for one I built-up in my 91 mr2). So I'm trying to compile a to-do/to-find list for what I need for the swap, so far this is what I have and want to use: Have: -A buddy sold me a rear-sump sc300 2jzge and I was able to get a AR5 transmission for cheap as well Planned: -ApexEngineered front crossmember and JZ mounts -1jz bellhousing (for the ar5) -SN95 Mustang gas tank + fuel pump -JDM 2jz ecu for now (haltech or megasquirt later) -Better wiring harness later in life -JZ clutch fan -3 core radiator Unknown: -Will the 260z master cylinder need to be used? Or would I need another manufacture? -Do I need to run new fuel lines from the tank? I know I'm missing some things and was hoping that someone with more experience can shed some light as to what else I need.
  5. Hey everyone! I don't know if you know me but my name is Mike Garcia and I am owner/builder of the Overkill Z. Years ago when I was building my car while searching for an engine mount for my S30 I came across John Coffey here on HybridZ. After looking at the other options I instantly felt his was the best designed and strongest option. I bought one and used it in my build. We became friends but missed the opportunity to buy the cross member JIG before his passing. However fait has a funny way of working.... I recently moved to Southern California when I saw the Jig was up for sale down in San Diego. I made the 4 hour round trip the next day and bought the Jig with the sole purpose of making the cross members for the community. I am one guy with a Jig and the resources to REPRODUCE these cross members Just as John designed! These will be MADE TO ORDER and will be low production numbers to insure a QUALITY product. So Just as I came across John you have now come across me. They will come as raw metal for ease of welding with the original instructions. YES these can be bolted in by drilling holes through the rails and cross member. Price $350 a unit plus shipping to your door step. Happy building! These are made for OEM 2jzgte engine mounts. People have used These for 1jzgte,vvti,GE swaps but may of had to swap out mounts. The 4bolt pattern is the same however the mount brackets vary. Message me for orders. Instagram----- Mike321go Facebook----- Mike Garcia
  6. Hello! I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I plan on putting an 800hp 2JZ in but obviously need to work on some chassis strengthening before I rip the thing apart with that much power. Here is a short list of items I found posted by the late John Coffey himself for a streetable car: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. I plan on doing some competitive drag racing, roll racing, track days, and driving the car around just about everywhere! I have a very clean paint job on the car and the body is nearly perfect, so repainting the car/pulling out glass isn't really something I'd like to do. However, I think pulling everything else off the car and putting it on a rotisserie would make the seam welding much easier as well as the frame rails and such and I can live with that. I would LOVE to hear from you guys that have done this and if you were able to preserve the paint and glass on the car. This is a pretty big undertaking so I'd like to prepare myself as much as possible before jumping into this huge project.
  7. I've had a 280Z in my possession for years now, and I got what was essentially a free 1JZ after I sold the manual trans ecu and harness from it. I never intended to swap a 1JZ in a Datsun, but after holding onto both since around the date I joined the forums, I started collecting more parts over the years and decided it was time to start the swap process. The first major hurdle turned out to be my 75 280Z's body. While outside the car looked great for its age, under years of dirt and what turned out to be bondo, the Alabama/Florida weather wasn't kind to the car at all. Everything from the floorpans forward had rusted out, including the shock towers and frame rails. One quick trip from Colorado to the west coast later and I had a new to me 1977 280Z shell that had spent its life in Cali, and had very little rust. Even better was what rust the car did have wasn't rusted at all on my 1975 280Z. With their powers combined, I had a fairly rust free shell to work with. Onto the motor, The parts collection started early, but has been revised a few times. I used to have a completely built up 180SX and some of the parts intended for it were originally slated for the 1JZ. After a series of trades and deals, I ended up with a 9174 EFR with an aluminum center section and 1.05 A/R T4 hotside. I feel that this is going to be way more turbo than I need for a 280Z but whatever, I can't seem to get rid of the thing for a smaller turbo. My 1JZ head had some odd wear, and as I was trying to decide if I wanted to try and machine it and bring its flow up to anything near what a stock 2JZ head can do, a vvti 2JZGTE popped up for sale and I scooped it up with the assumption that if 1.5JZ swaps are a thing, then going the other way has to work. Turns out Aaron from Driftmotion has already been down this path with quite a bit of success, and after speaking with him while ordering parts, I'm glad I took the plunge. Supporting mods on the 1JZ bottom end are: Weisco 86.5mm 9.5:1 pistons ARP rod bolts for stock 1JZ rods ARP head studs I'll have the bottom end machined and the assembly re-balanced with the new pistons and rod bolts. Should be fun. Anyone know of a machine shop near Denver with a 2JZ torque plate? Fuel system/ecu: Drift motion -8 Fuel rail Donkeypower 1300cc injectors (EV14 bosch type). DW Surge tank with twin AEM e85 044 clones. Fuel lab fpr and filters GM Flex fuel sensor for E85 AEM Infinity 6 Standalone I'll likely have the stock 280Z tank popped apart, cleaned out and coated since with the surge tank I should have enough fuel to do whatever I want. One thing I learned in my quest for DBW is aside from being heavy, the USDM 2JZGTE (or possible early JDM, not 100% sure) throttle body doesn't play well with the VVTI solenoid. In fact, they don't fit due to the TPS sensor being in the way. However, I'm totally okay with that, as I didn't want to deal with installing a throttle cable anyway. The plan from the start was to switch the TB out with something similarly sized in diameter, and that ended up being a 350Z throttle body. For wiring I'll simply move what would have been IACV wiring about 18" further forward. Please excuse the messy garage, its normally much more organized but trying to cram 2 shells and a Ducati in there left me with little space. I'm having to play garage tetris to store all of this crap until I can haul away the blue shell. Here is the 2JZGTE vvti head on the 1JZ bottom end. All of this stuff is eliminated simply by going DBW with the AEM infinity 6 with my 350Z TB and pedal combo. Quite the size difference. The biggest irony is that if the bolt pattern on the 2JZ thottle body was the same for the top two bolts as it is for the bottom two studs, this would be a bolt on affair. Sadly, only the bottom two studs line up. No issues with the throttle blade hitting the inside of the manifold. I'll likely end up not using the bottom bolt holes at all, and instead center up a plate and weld it to the intake to use as a new flange. One of the last engine parts I need is a flywheel/clutch. I'm using a milled down 350Z CD009 transmission. What I'm hoping to do is just run a clutch kit that lets me swap the clutch hub/disc out for a Nissan one and lets me keep my 2JZ flywheel. OS Giken, ATS work this way as the clutch disc part number is universal to all their kits. The only thing that changes is the center hub. The thousand dollar question however is simply will there be enough engagement of the input shaft on the transmission to make this work long term. I also got my Greddy T88 turbo manifold on there and my 9174EFR fits quite nicely on it. The only thing to do to the manifold now is cut off the 4-Bolt WG flange and weld on a v-band for my Turbosmart WG. For anyone wondering what the CD009 looks like bolted up to a 1JZGTE with a VVTI 2JZ head, here you go.
  8. Hello Everyone, I bought a 1971 Datsun 240z, about 2 years ago as my first project car. The more I started to dig into the car, the more I wanted to repair and improve it. Initially I was just planning on getting it running and using it while slowly upgrading and repairing it. I ended up tearing it down to the bare chassis, mounting it on a rotisserie and media blasting it. After I media blasted it, I decided to replace the floors and upgrade the frame rails with baddog frame rails. I sat down and thought about what I wanted the car to be and I came up with a ton of ideas, but ended up narrowing it down into one vision. The vision is this(nicknamed ProjectWhiteNoiseZ): My vision is inspired by modern Nissan Nismo styling, but it will be powered by a 2JZ-GTE with a cd009 transmission. I have gone through every part and media blasted and powder coated it or upgraded it with something better. Doing all of this, inspired my brother to buy a crashed 2008 Mustang GT and the current plan is to complete our cars by August/September '18. I live in Colorado and he lives in Pennsylvania, so I'll be road tripping the 240z 1700miles each way when complete to meet him at a track in Pennsylvania and race. If you're interested to see the work and follow our journey to complete our cars over the next few months, we have a YouTube channel, Facebook, and Instagram where we're documenting our builds. Any comments on suggestions for YouTube video improvements are appreciated. We will answer any questions you have. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJt7v6VEHBqNPweO_cZ1guw PBB Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectbuildbrothers/ PWNZ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectwhitenoisez/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ProjectBuildBrothers/
  9. Just finished the first 2jz crossmember for a customer on here!!
  10. Hey Guys, After 3years of racing the OverkillZ life got in the way. new house,new jobs, other cars, Moved to SOCAL, ect ect... But I am back getting the car back together with a lot of upgrades. Besides that I came into the opportunity to buy Johns old JIG used to make the Betamotorsports 2jz/1jz Cross member!!!! I was planning to buy it years ago before is passing however DevilZ got to it first. Now I have it and the ability to PRODUCE THEM. I can make them to order at $350 a unit. They will come with all the original instructions and built on the original jig just as John did.
  11. I've decided it's time to start a build thread. After 5+ years of lurking, 3 flipflops on engine choice, 1 lost project car, and 1 brother-in-law who is trying his best to keep me on track despite life's interruptions, I finally settled on the JDM Aristo 2j. (He's also doing a 2JZ swap, but starting with a bare shell) Car: Very straight but rough, rust-free '71 that currently has the stock motor with the Arizona Z Car 4 barrel carb and manifold (for sale) Currently have waiting in the hangar: JDM Aristo 2jzgte VVTi cd009 R200 Short Term Plans: Collins or Maverick adapter ECU Master, EMU Black Stock twins (for now to get things rolling) Rework the stock harness myself, with cannon plug to mount ECU inside Stock fuel tank with surge tank (for now to avoid fuel cell until it's time) Plumbing to handle E85 and flex-fuel sensor (for when it's time to upgrade the stock twins) Longer Term Plans: Suspension Cage Too much to list I'll add pictures later
  12. Week 1 (Just one Saturday): Purchased rolling shell. Week 2 (Friday and Saturday): Tear-down and removal of all that old dry hard sound deadening
  13. As the title suggests looking for a z that's swapped clean would be a plus. As much as possible no rust. Willing to travel for the right one
  14. I haven't posted here in forever it seems like. A lot of you guys have yet to be introduced to the green Z unless you've seen it on Facebook. We picked it up actually to only rob the fenders from for the red one but I've ended up falling in love. It's a hardtop car whereas the red one has a sunroof. I attempted to make a new headliner for it where the factory one was torn up. After that not much else has happened except for locating all the rust areas which, on this car, aren't actually that bad. It has been garage kept for the last couple years that I know of which has led to mostly only the floor pans being shot. the rocker panels are decent but could use some patching and a few areas in the door jam area that need some attention. As far as engine goes I've resorted back to the 2jz I have sitting around. Still working on mounts for it and am currently gathering parts, or rather money to buy parts, to start rebuilding it. Nothing spectacular out of it but maybe some GTE internals If my engine builder friend has them. Stock head for now but maybe some day switch to either a 1jz for a 1.5jz build or straight to a non vvti 2jzgte head. These are all just dreams right now and I think I'll be more than happy with a stock 2jzge in a 2500lb car. As of now all I've done is painted the valve covers, clean the block a little, and have sourced some more of the parts I'll be needing. A crankshaft from an sc300 and also a wiring harness and ecu from an SC. After that all that's left is a rebuild kit with gaskets and bearings and such. Also gonna go ahead and replace the water and oil pumps while the engine is out. Suspension I'm leaning towards the T3 DIY coilover kit or maybe just some of the mr2 struts with stiffer springs. Wheels will be some of the diamond racing wheels for now but in the end is a secret . Let's just say I'll be looking into doing a 5 lug swap soon as well. Still looking into a cd009 transmission swap but I may just throw a w58 on the 2jz and get it in the car. Maybe I'll actually be able to provide updates for this thread pretty quick. I enrolled in my local technical college for their electrician/ commercial wiring class and will be done about summer time next year. I'm kinda excited about that but who needs eduaction when you have a Z car. LMAO. Thanks guys
  15. Hey I have a 1970 datsun 240z and I've been thinking about a 2jz conversion for a while now, due to some recent circumstances I've really started to think about the swap very seriously. I was wondering how much it would cost to get everything I need for the build, wiring harness, mounts, engine, drivetrain, ect. I realize that cost depends on a lot of things but I was hoping to get some estimates, I plan on getting brakes/ suspension/strut braces already so you can subtract that from total cost. Something else I may have to consider is taking it to a shop as i don't have room to work on it where I live and I cant say they would even let me. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks. My estimate: engines $2,500-3,000 350z trans $400-700 engine mounts $300 plug 'n' play wiring harness $799 BC coilovers $1,200 strut braces $240 wilwood stages 3's $2,000 350z trans adapter plate $400 exhaust (?) differential (?) driveshaft (?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total: $8,990-9,790 no tax... $9,889-10,769 after adding 10% for tax.
  16. This will be my first attempt at an official build thread, as well as my first time trying out photobucket to add pictures so stick with me please. (Pic Heavy) First off I am Grayson, a 17 year old from the east coast, you know that place that breeds rusty cars. Last year I explored a dirt road I was always curious about and managed to find this "gem" We managed to pick it up for $800 (having no idea what the hell we were getting into) It was rusty, of course but also came with about 5 boxes full of replacement parts. That picture is the day we got it delivered to our shop and right before I started tearing it apart. WARNING these next pictures may bring back bad memories but the rust is an evil we have all dealt with; http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_184531_zpss3j9jemd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=25 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182926_zpsptongh9l.jpg.html?sort=3&o=26 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182910_zpsedxlk5oo.jpg.html?sort=3&o=27 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140226_182900_zpspeqecq7j.jpg.html?sort=3&o=28 Surprisingly the battery tray area was fine The rear hatch area did have some pretty bad places though http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140816_230652_zpsb0rbsdut.jpg.html?sort=3&o=15 Rust aside because we have all seen it, felt it, hell probably tasted it at some point. Me and my dad (who hates this car) got the floor pans replaced along with the rocker panels but I don't really have a good picture of them after they're installed http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140405_222424_zpsg9kol34t.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 We did actually manage to get the stock L26 to run after sitting for 5 years I think. Just took a new battery and new fuel line but we had to cut it off due to it spraying fuel on the battery and windshield http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_184737_zpsgi3ckpbu.mp4.html?sort=3&o=2 Thats me that says "woahhh what" and then Jared in the blue jacket with the 13 "woahs" and my friend Mitch in the car. Thinking back on it now I seriously should have just got the l26 back in good condition and driven it like that but I'm a young arrogant teenager so f##k society I bought a 2JZ http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140414_194248_zpscodyk27a.jpg.html?sort=3&o=36 I picked it up from Mitch for $400 which I felt was a good deal given the fact he was also going to help me with installing it and the wiring he owns two 1jzgte VVT-I swapped Toyota Cressidas. I started getting into areas where I was unsure about the Datsun so I foolishly sold the oil pan for the JZ thinking I would need a new one anyway. The one I had was the rear-sump from an SC300 that I needed. http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140830_151039_zpsmjmstoll.jpg.html?sort=3&o=28 I sold everything for the oil system for a incredibly stupid/low $170 pic related http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_168456223304030_zpso1sdwvox.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=33 But no big deal I still need to hit up the local pull a part for a crank shaft/ full rotating assembly and now the oilpan Live and learn I guess. I did manage to score the hookup on a turbo charger for $free.50 so I'll eat the cost of the new oilpan. My dad works on TigerCat machines which are equipped with massive Cummins turbodiesel engines which are in turn equipped with Holset turbos http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1411931033942_zps4y7rnouf.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2 Pictured are two turbos; left is an HX40w and right is a much smaller HX35 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-09-27%2016.04.21_zpsebrhzbfm.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0 Since I am going to have the turbo on the passenger side I figured why the hell not have a fender exit (this is still highly under consideration) I still have the L26 in there for now but the white circle is approximately 3.5-4" that I will eventually cut out and run the downpipe through http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140917_202435_zpsiekzgqtk.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=46 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140917_202631_zpswa33quqc.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=47 Our local law enforcement is the complete opposite of strict about exhaust so problems shouldn't really arise there (I hope ) That pretty much covers actual progress so now onto the plans. I'm still looking for fenders in better condition and ran across these two babies http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-10-16%2023.39.01_zpshh2ahyln.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=52 But the owner is in the process of restoring the 260z but said he would sell the 280zx for a pretty low price. I had to strongly resist the urge to trade him 260z parts and money for the 280. Priorities priorities. I also just got a new DD in the form of 1995 Toyota/Lexus luxury. Gotta say this is my favorite car ever strongly recommend the LS400 to anyone who needs 4 doors for more whores (or children/family) http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_174103_zpszlly65dd.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=53 We also just got back from a trip to Arizona which I gotta say is probably my favorite place to visit. Blah blah blah pictures from the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam, and Las Vegas http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/d3404bd2-8301-4177-b14c-4be8c9a4cc0c_zpsuvutmxtq.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=16 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141012_162942_zps71w5icvy.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=14 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141012_190234_zpsdfqpu1pi.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=11 http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/gsullens37/media/Mobile%20Uploads/63246712-dfa5-4cd5-bef3-20a8fdb77220_zps1espdven.jpg.html?filters[user]=141766240&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=10 Super fun trip If you get the chance to head west see those three things. And keep an eye out for Datsuns, THEY WERE EVERYWHERE. That's pretty much all for today. More to come hopefully tomorrow in the form of JZ parts. To all who have read this far thanks and please return!
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