Spdrcr

Driveshaft is in and fits perfect now. Just enough room to slip it in. the factory bolts were too small they did not go all the way through the nut. Grabbed some 5/16 x 1 1/2” bolts and washers that work great. here is spicy of the fuel line, power, and brake line.

New shaft came back and fits perfect. 3/4 inch gap. Any smaller and squeezing the thing in there would be harder.

Need to get the cooling system hooked up so I can run it up to temp. upper hose Lower hose Steam port cut into the upper hose needed to mount an overflow tank so I grabbed a universal job. gonna try and get it on the existing bracket it came with a bracket that the holes lined up perfectly with the holes on the car gonna chop it warned you my fabrication is subpar

I love wire loom so much! I wish I could do it for a living... bleh! plug wire is hitting the battery tray. I don’t know if I’m going to fix the plug or the tray. new driveshaft has arrived. still have to test it. picked up some plugs for all the extra ports my pcv is going to be the factory line from the throttle body to the front passenger valve cover rear passenger side plugged rear driver side has pcv valve in the cover itself pcv valve to old evap selonoid port

Let’s get this party started! Get it? ... started. FullSizeRender.mov

Um.... short story is make sure to review this diagram before connecting the fuel lines. And that’s all I have to say about that.

Got the fuel line ran. I used nylon braided line. I used the old fuel p clips and cut half the rubber out of it. That made a good spot to run the fuel line. I left 2 holes in the mount and that holds the brake line and power line. I forgot to take a pic of that. I’m going to get a 90 fitting on the fuel rail to change the angle a bit cuz the line sits on the battery. I’m going to be an electrician soon if I mess with wires anymore. Here is the harness laid out. I’m really glad I didn’t wrap it on the bench. I had to cut the 02 sensors out to get the where they made sense. I created a new wire pulling tool. I can make extras if anyone wants in on a group buy or something. this is an absolute mess rights now but I really wanted the ecm in the car to keep the bay cleaner. I was able to pull the factory wiring through the firewall and strip all the old wires I don’t need anymore. The I slid the ecm connectors one at a time through the hole. here is my fusible link replacement. Just plain blade fuses that are powered directly from the starter line. I put on the 4 red and white wires that came from the links. then I made up a relay box. Using 5 relays and 6 fuses. fan relay and fuse fuel relay and fuse starter relay and fuse ignition relay and 2 fuses split pass and driver side coils, inj, etc brake signal relay which will receive power from the brake light and ground the ecm tcc signal

Drilled some holes for the trans mount. Rivnuts are fun. mount in. It’s a tight fit. unfortunately I ran into into clearance issues. Not totally unexpected. The fittings for the trans cooler lines were squished on the tunnel wall. I tried to hammer it after dropping the trans down but couldn’t get the leverage. Then shenanigans ensued when I dropped the trans too much and the engine slid back so the intake was stuck in the firewall. Took me a minute to figure that mess out. Good times. Ended up having to pull everything most of the way out and mashed the passenger side tunnel right on the crease about 1” in. added some paint after all the banging. Then put it back in. Test fit the driveshaft and it was short. After conferring with you guys decided it was too much and contacted JCI. They are taking care of me.

Yeah. I’ve never done a project like this so most of it I’m just doing whatever seems right. the headers are the JCI that come in the kit.

All right time to stop playing around. Bad boy is going in! it was a lot harder than I thought. Took me all day. I couldn’t get enough length on the boom. (Thats’s what she...you know what) I had to remove everything off the front including bumper, grill, and even the hood mechanism. That still wasn’t enough. Had to modify the lift by drilling an extra hole. Then I had a problem with the lift which was vapor locked. Had to take take it off mid install to cycle. Then the chains were hitting the firewall before I was even close to the mounts. Had to unhook everything and lengthen the chains so I could push it back. Very fiddly. I eventually had to undo the drivers side mount and bolt it back to the block after it was in. I had to shave the top off that mount too since it was hitting the header. A small corner of the JCI mount also needed trimmed. the passenger side coil is very close to the battery tray. I think it’s going to be an issue later. had to trim a bracket off the passenger side for the header to fit. No big deal there.

thanks for the heads up. I’m going to wait to get it on the engine before i wrap it up. I have some new loom too. I’m going to try and get the fuse box, relays, and ecm in the passenger side.

I thought there were a lot of wires before. It’s pretty scary cutting all the wires out. LT1 Swap is the place to go. I also sent my ECM to Brandon to tune out VATS, emissions, etc. Easy peasy to work with. I thought about just snipping the old stuff and not getting too deep in the harness. I’m glad I did. Was able to easily identify all the stand alone connections. here’s what I ended up with. Fingers are crossed. hope I don’t need any of this! Wish I could go on a diet that easy. I’m not going to wrap it until it’s in the car-ish. In case I need to reconfigure anything. computer is back

I’ve got a 280z. The angles look good. I’m using the JCI kit and they seem to have everything sorted out.

Radiator time. I have a cheap eBay unit. The stock shroud holes don’t really line up. I drilled it a bit and added the fan. I ordered some hoses based on the search function. heater bypass hose New fittings for the trans.

Finished with cleaning the bay. At least for now. You can see I still need to wet sand some more. there’s no going back now! transmission ears are gone.