Jaconense777

Thanks for the support. I already figured it out 👍🏼

Thanks I’ll be contacting arp tomorrow. do you have any idea about the rings? If the pistons have 0.030 marked on them could that means that the rings are the same size 0.030?

Hello guys, what happened is that I put a new set of felpro performance head gaskets on my s c 350 and I found some antifreeze in the oil again. I removed the left side and it was very tight, however the right side came off very easy, they both were tightened to 70lbs. As the block is a good wrench and the heads are the edelbrock 6073 aluminum . This time I would like to replace the pistons rings, the pistons have marked 0.030 on them, are the rings the same size 0.030? Now if i tighten the heads studs on a cold engine and then repeat it on a warm engine could this prevent the heads from getting loose? I have arp studs and I don’t really know which ones I have. As they just have the arp letters Imprinted on the head. Should I replace them? Your help is appreciated.

Hello, I just wanted to thank everyone for all your support and suggestions, I did narrowed things down and it was the camshaft, I already replaced it and added a new timing chainsaw well, the car operates well now, I know is a long journey but the car has everything operational, I just need to open a new trend about a good radiator. Best regards.

Hello guys,the distributor was tested and it’s in good working condition, however I found out that timing chain is loose, so I’m going to replace the timing chains. The camshaft is also damaged, so I would like to get the best camshaft available for my engine, google tells me that COMP Cams CL12-600-4. But I would like to get the best for my application, as I have mentioned before I have 6073 edelbrock heads they’re 195cc Intake Runner Volume however it was previously ported out so it could be higher. performer 2101 exhaust manifold, 700R4 4 speed overdrive transmission, hooker headers.. what else is needed as basic information FYI I’ll be using a Holley 4150 670cfm street avenger carburetor, (I’m replacing the 1406 edelbrock carb.) (the reason why I asked all these questions is due that the mechanic just do the labor, so I have to do the research and get the parts ready for him, so the next time he comes he can work on the car.) thanks for your help.

I apologize, was diagnosed with Giulian-barrel, and Miller-fisher syndrome, kinda like stroke, I had to relearn how to write and many other things, I delete the posts.

Hello guys I this is an old tread, I already rebuilt the engine and it worked good, I took the heads to machine shop for a rebuilt (it was a blown head gasket antifreeze got mixed with the oil)however I decided to change the distributor harness because it was kinda loose, so because the wires were a lil different to the stock one I decided to adapt it, and soldered the wires, after the mechanic put it on time it started right up. I went for a ride and the car was running really good, the problem is that while driving i heard a big sound by the distributor and smoke coming behind the car ,I know I didn’t have much fuel as I was on my way to a gas station, then my dad decided to bring me gas and put some on the carburetor, it was causing a lot of flames, I towed the car back home and the mechanic opened the distributor but it looks good but it makes a noise when I am trying to start the engine, and the fuel comes right up the carburetor, like explosion the mechanic checked inside the engine by the distributor and looks very clean and the rotor it gets aligned all the time, he thinks it might be the timing chain, now it won’t start, he said. The distributor rotor doesn’t turn the way it supposed to, I’ll record it next time he tries to start it.he is coming next Tuesday so I am getting a new distributor and have it handy just in case that’s the problem. now the golden question.... which distributor is better for my application it’s a good wrench gen 1 4 bolt pre 1985, edelbrock 6073 heads,edelbrock performer intec, 1406 carb, I was looking into ACDelco 93440806, MSD8362, or autozone Duralast Gold New Distributor BDLG-GM08 just because I have $50 store credit(could use it on oil change though) I want to get the best option for the money, budget is around $200s, spans do you guys have any idea or suggestions about what could be related to my problem? thanks guys for your support on this matter. Sorry guys for the Rocky. FullSizeRender.mov

Hello guys I just want to give you guys an update and continue with this old tread, I already rebuilt the engine and it worked good, I took the heads to machine shop for a rebuilt (it was a blown head gasket antifreeze got mixed with the oil)however I decided to change the distributor harness because it was kinda loose, so because the wires were a lil different to the stock one I decided to adapt it, it started right up. I went for a ride and the car was running really good, the problem is that i heard a big sound by the distributor and smoke coming behind the car , then my dad decided to bring me gas and put some on the carburetor, it was causing a lot of flames, I towed the car back home and the mechanic opened the distributor but it looks good but it makes a noise when I am trying to start the engine, and the fuel comes right up the carburetor, like explosion the mechanic checked inside the engine by the distributor and looks very clean and the rotor it gets aligned all the time, he thinks it might be the timing chain, now it won’t start, he said. The distributor rotor doesn’t turn the way it supposed to, I’ll record it next time he tries to start it.he is coming next Tuesday so I am getting a new distributor and have it handy just in case that’s the problem. now the golden question.... which distributor is better for my application it’s a good wrench gen 1 4 bolt pre 1985, 6073 heads,performer intec, 1406 carb, I was looking into ACDelco 93440806, MSD8362, or autozone Duralast Gold New Distributor BDLG-GM08 just because I have $50 store credit(could use it on oil change though) I want to get the best option for the money, budget is around $200s, spans do you guys have any idea or suggestions about what could be related to my problem? thanks guys for your support on this matter. Sorry guys for the Rocky questions. FullSizeRender.mov

About the carburetor I found this on google

thanks for your wishes. The previous picture shows a lot of carbon buildup on the pistons.I did looked out for a mechanic but he gave me wrong information on how to remove the heads, however it ok as I like to think out of the box and was able to send the heads to a machine shop. Can’t wait to get the heads back and put them back on the car, I am getting a digital torque wrench so I can put them back using proper procedures.

Hello guys, I Also decided and was brave enough to take off the heads (LoL) and found out that there was in deed coolant mixed with the oil. I already sent the heads to a machine shop for a rebuild. A mechanic told me that my crankshaft sounds like a 383 stroker, the pistons has 0.030 written on them and I did a research and shows that a 195cc inner runner volume and 70cc combustion chamber was enough for that type of engine. Could you confirm that? I am going on a 383 direction, it has an edelbrock 1406 and I was told that with spreas modification ( carburetor jet kit) can improve its performance and cfm ratio, as it’s only 600 cfm , it’s in great shape though or should I get a bigger carb? Thanks for all your support. Shows rust like in the holes closer to the distributor . This how the pistons looks before and after i cleaned them out as you see the pistons have 0.030 on them.

Thanks guys for all your support. I went and rented the compression tester gauge set and I’ll keep posting as I go through this process. And there’s a closer picture of the part I was talking about.

Sorry for the Newby questions. Could you please tell me what is that and the purpose?

Thanks for your reply I don’t have much experience as a mechanic, everything I am doing is based on research and google, I had made many mistakes using you tube as sometimes they explain things as if you were knowledgeable of mechanics, I got the idea of the coolant in the engine as in the video if you look at the left lower corner of the heads looks like there is some coolant or water with the oil, and base on what I was told in the past I assumed antifreeze was getting in the engine mixing with oil, I’ll check the oil and see if there’s any mixtures, it still has the oil the previous owner put into the car, when I looked in to the oil it was good texture and color but he could of have changed the oil to sell the car for a higher price. Also I moved the distributor and it might be out of time as I watched a video on YouTube on scratching the distributor rotor makes better contact and better spark. But my main concern is the engine and the mechanics that always try to rip you off.

Thanks for your reply, I love Datsun s30’s so I got this one to keep it, well cancer had me in bed for over 8 months so my wife and some friends helped me out getting this car to keep my mind busy and to get up from bed, I started working on it, cleaned the under carriage and painted all the wheel arch’s, then again, honestly I almost didn’t make it out alive form the hospital, many times I was told that I wasn’t make it, internal bleedings, hoses in the chest (ports), intestines paralyzed, they said problems with the brain, like a stroke but is a new disease call Miller fisher syndrome and was diagnosed with guillian-barrel etc, This was my 2018 and 2019 then you know what was 2020 for everyone else lol, I might sell it in the future, but I was told that the smoke is normal for the new exhaust gaskets to smoke, as they’re getting cured, I changed all the exhaust system gaskets from the the engine to the tail pipe, I changed them because smoke was coming out of the left side header by the gaskets and I had misfires, I replaced the spark plugs but one thing I noticed is that the engine had some spark plug Foulers , then the car was kinda weak, I didn’t found any oil on the spark plugs but the car was running kinda weak, maybe like you guys said to check the compression, I also changed the power wires to the distributor as thy has some rust on them, and we’re lose. I had a “professional “ from Bristol audio to come and install a new alarm in my car, he broke the steering wheel column cover and after that the car’s battery dies very fast, I ever had this problem before. (I cleaned the fuel lines and rebuilt the fuel tank even it got ceramic coated inside and the fuel pump is a loud Holley red, there is fuel in the carburetor , ) what is the best tool to check the compression? And if that’s the case what can I do to fix that problem? Is it expensive? Man looks like I have time to write big essays lol

When I bought the car I was running, but then I changed the valve covers gaskets and header gaskets so it was smoking and I thought it was because of that. 20200529_112600.mp4 20200529_112600.mp4 20200529_112600_1.mp4 But when I removed the valve covers I noticed like milk or coffe color with the oil, the oil on the dipstick is clean, I wonder if is because the guy who sold me the car changed the oil to cover up any problem it might had, I did not have the chance to run the car enough after acquiring it as I was il , I also found antifreeze once by one of the intake manifold bolts, so I am trying to fix it now and a street mechanic i was told that it could be a blown head gasket for the radiator cap. but once they start saying of it might be this or that and their prices it's hard to trust. 20200529_112600_1_2.mp4 20200921_190457.mp4 20200921_190457.mp4

.Hello guys, I’ve posted the same topic on S30 forum and I won’t to see if here can also get some information. I have my S30 and it already has a 350 in it, I found out some milky ( hard to see) stuff on the radiator cap so I assume it’s a blown head gasket, it has a custom driveshaft, turbo transmission, it has an Edelbrock 6073 aluminum heads conversion kit and performer manifold, 1406 carburetor , hooker headers, ceramic coated twin Anasa exhaust system... my concern here is that I might be in the need to rebuild the whole engine, and hope the heads aren’t cracked as aluminum heads tent to crack, and if that’s the case I am wondering if it’s cheaper rebuilding the current engine or buying a new one, and if the heads are reusable use them on the new or rebuild engine, or should I go a different route, with a different swap, I was thinking about a RB25, I’ve seen some around $2500 with Transmission online (but I’ve heard that parts are a pain to get them), if so do I need special modifications? In the conversion to a V8 350 I noticed it was spent over $3300, i don’t want to complicate things and make it easier with your advice and suggestions, I don’t want to get ripped off by a mechanic so I’ve been doing some research and what better place that with experienced Z drivers. Thanks for your support. ( I already spent many months in bed, about 8 months for cancer then 6 months in a hospital so now that I can walk want to fly on my Z lol)

Forgot to mention is a SBC 5.7 engine.

.Hello guys, I have my S30 and it already has a 350 in it, I found out some milky ( hard to see) stuff on the radiator cap so I assume it’s a blown head gasket, it has a custom driveshaft, turbo transmission, it has an Edelbrock 6073 aluminum heads conversion kit and performer manifold, 1406 carburetor , hooker headers, ceramic coated twin Anasa exhaust system... my concern here is that I might be in the need to rebuild the whole engine, and hope the heads aren’t cracked as aluminum heads tent to crack, and if that’s the case I am wondering if it’s cheaper rebuilding the current engine or buying a new one, and if the heads are reusable use them on the new or rebuild engine, or should I go a different route, with a different swap, I was thinking about a RB25, I’ve seen some around $2500 with Transmission online (but I’ve heard that parts are a pain to get them), if so do I need special modifications? In the conversion to a V8 350 I noticed it was spent over $3300, i don’t want to complicate things and make it easier with your advice and suggestions, I don’t want to get ripped off by a mechanic so I’ve been doing some research and what better place that with experienced Z drivers. Thanks for your support. ( I already spent many months in bed, about 8 months for cancer then 6 months in a hospital so now that I can walk want to fly on my Z lol)

Thanks i already have an idea of how to use an multimeter, I used to build RC cars and that video gave me an reminder of how To properly use it, I already had ordered the multimeter and the power and tach wires And will come by mail by tomorrow. Ill test the cables, distributor cap and I’ll be back with any updates. thanks again.

Thanks for all your support and your time, as time is something that we cannot get back anymore. I read your message Too late my friend 🤯🥴, I watched a couple of videos and they suggest to clean the inside of the distributor and the metal parts, So I did it as they suggested.so when I asked if there was any chance for the distributor to be affected in any how if the cap was removed, is because I was afraid of what just happened🤦🏻😅 Lol. I was cleaning The rotor as stated on one of the videos and it moved clockwise very easy. And looks like it was aligned with a mark that was painted on the module. And it was aligned in direction with the first spark plug. I was looking on some videos and shows that I need to manually turn the engine sticking A finger on a spark plug hole but I don’t see how can I turn my engine. I might need to get professional help, something that I was trying to avoid as I am very short on cash, how could I align the rotor with that line again? I probably need to move it counterclockwise, but how? I found the power cord very loose, so I already ordered online and I am going to replace it. Please guys safe my life here 😆 LoL. This is one of the videos I watched also this is the hose I am going to replace, so there are no consequences if removed? Sorry sometimes stupid questions prevents stupid results.thanks for your patience.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the help, I am going to replace the tach and power connectors, do you think it could be better if I replace the whole distributor? Because I believe the distributor comes with the wires. And they cost around $20 to $30 on O’rellys or auto zone. If I remove the distributor cap (with the cables attached) how do I Know if there is any damage? Does this affect the distributor in any way?. Also can I replace the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? Thanks for the help.

Thanks a lot, I already created a new post, i couldn’t upload the conversation with that title “ Sbc cranks but it doesn’t start “, now I posted as SBC starting problems

Hello guys again, I try to post but it created like about 3 post and can’t see the content, I apologize for that. Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Hello guys again, Question number 1: can I change the brake vacuum reservoir hoses without compromising air getting in to the brakes fluids? It has edelbrock 60739 heads,1406 carb, performer 2101 manifold for reference. Question 2. I have a problem with my car it cranks but it doesn’t start. it has new ngk spark plugs (got them at Amazon) it was backfiring and saw some smoke coming out by the headers so I changed the valves covers and headers gaskets, new battery, the fuel pump is a red Holley and it sounds that it’s working (as it’s very loud) I cleaned the fuel hoses with air pressure . used starting fluid and it just cranks but it doesn’t start. I was told that it could be the started but as it cranks I searched up and found out that if it cranks the starter works.what ever it’s going on it’s drying out the battery, I had some alarm expert lol from a local alarm shop near my place and paid a lot because they had to remove the old alarm system and put a new one, the old one stopped working and i couldn’t turn it off, and it was working fine before, even he broke my steering wheel column cover. but all this thing happened when all the crazy stuff about the pandemic and couldn’t get in touch with them, so I am screwed there. Anyway I narrow things down, The fuel pump is loud and there is fuel in the carburetor, I bought a performance tool w86553 Ignition Tester and there’s no power on the spark plug tester, I checked on 3 spark plug cables, so I was looking at the hatch connector and shows some rust I cleaned but still doesn’t work, Should I buy a new distributor ? If so which one do you recommend? The car was turning on without a problem, I twisted the distributor a little to the left (counterclockwise) and turned back as I saw some antifreeze by the left rear bolt next to the distributor so I don’t know if that could be one of the reasons. I didn’t know that affects the timing.I am categorized as disabled, and been working on my Z, Had to deal with cancer and had something like a stroke and had to remember or relearn some stuff, spend over a year down and 6 months in the hospital so no much $ and my oldest son is helping me with the hard work.c found the spark plugs about $5 bucks cheaper on amazon and that’s why I bought them In case some one ask why I bought them on Amazon 😅lol Do you guy have any idea what it could be?