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AydinZ71 last won the day on June 29

AydinZ71 had the most liked content!

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  1. Update: roof bodywork complete. Shot most of the exterior sealer, and got high-build primer down on the roof and windshield sills. Will leave it like that until the rest of the bodywork is done, then sand the whole exterior with 220 followed by 400grit all at one-time. Next up is applying filler to the remainder of the exterior where I have fresh sealer down. Exterior portion of rear tail light and hatch sill painted semi-gloss black. Same as windshield sill and rear quarter window sill. Door jams painted a combination of silver and black to match interior. Fenders have been chem-dipped and returned. Filling some holes with the MIG soon and hammer-dolly into shape. IMG_9071.MOV IMG_9077.MOV
  2. Apologies. I have to admit, I had a bit of a chuckle when I read this (melty melty). Yes... the exhaust will damage your finish. Primarily from the heat but also from chem's in the exhaust itself. If its FRP, it will destroy your hood unless you clad the area within several inches with an SS or AL heat-shield. Even then, that hood will have an expiration date on it. Unless its a drag-strip car and you are wearing a respirator, empty the exhaust behind the driver. Where is entirely up to you. There is a reason the old Cobra's have the exhaust run along the rocker and exit behind the driver. Its just impractical to have the exhaust dump ahead of the driver for something that is meant to be driven on the street. Just my opinion of-course. The whole exhaust out the hood or out the front fenders looks cool, but its just not practical. That is a lot of exhaust out that motor, and with a turbo you will be dumping large amounts of fuel to keep the turbine spooled between shifts and will be running rich in-general under boost. Carbon deposits are for-sure, unless the pipe is sticking way-out. Like several inches.
  3. Waiting for my basecoat to cure before I can hit the clear, so I decided to re-do the last post on this topic I made which I screwed up (by using quotes in the title). So what are your thoughts on what brake system (front & back) you would be looking at for a 15" wheel and OEM hubs. Considerations are: 1) Value - front and back must be under $2500 2) Replacement and performance (racing compound) pads 3) Quality 4) Weight & inertia I must keep the OEM sized components for E-production, but Id like to consider larger capacity brakes for then I run Vintage with the 3.1L I am building. I have a Tilton pedal assembly with a remote proportioning valve that mechanically adjust the leverage to separate/dedicated front/rear MC's. Number-one on my list at this time is the Arizona-Z system. Looks like a very lightweight system, although I will ask him for a weight soon enough. I know Silvermine, Z-car Garage, MSA, T3 (and more) all have systems offered.
  4. John made a good point about our meandering conversation on someone's wheel/tire post so I started a new one. @JMortensen, @Dat73z Attached is the specific tire we run in EP (I say "we", as if I actually have the car on the road). Il post some pics of the wheel/tire combo on the car. Agree with Jon that the racing tires certainly feel a lot lighter than DOT street tires, although I have not weighed a 245 tire as a comparison. As I said in my previous post, the combo came-in at 33lbs w/ a wheel weight of 13.6lbs. I am still amazed how Koenig can achieve that knowing the top-of-the-line TE37V is just under 11lbs in the same size. The Koenig's were $109 ea on Summit and lighter than the conventional (and much more expensive) panasports.
  5. So I am only familiar with the class rules in SCCA EP and ITS. In E-production is sort-of the closest thing to C-production which is no longer a class raced at nationals. Not sure if its still around regionally. ITS is less-modified than EP. higher weight limit, etc. EP, we are limited to 15X7". ITS seems to limit the wheel and tire widths: 7" w/275. 8" w/225. It all comes down to the specific spec. line in the particular racing league and class. The point I was making much earlier in the thread is given the power, braking, chassis/suspension limitations of a particular class, ultra wide wheels/tires is not always "better". At some point, you pass an inflection point where the rotating inertia and weight of the wheel & tire starts fighting you and the additional traction from larger contact patch is giving you diminishing returns. If your braking and torque can't utilize the extra grip, that still leaves cornering grip but you are still adding inertia and weight. Now if you had a Z with unlimited brake modifications, unlimited wheel/tire and torque far above what you can get from an NA L-series motors, you can certainly gain a lot from going wider than 7"! As a point of humility, I don't have the first-hand experience of racing for years like others here. This opinion is from many conversations with those that do, but my perspective is narrow. Assume whatever Jon, John, or Cary say supersedes my opinion haha.
  6. Certainly not an expert by by a large margin, but I don't think 245's will work on 15X7 w/ street tires. Hoosier makes these slicks for racing, but even more so they list "Prod, GT" in the description of 245/580R15. Meaning, the tire was specifically designed for production racing where clearly the width of the wheel is limited by class rules. The contact patch is much larger than the wheel width itself, hence "cantilevered slicks". Using only deductive reasoning, I don't think DOT tires can have a larger contact patch than the wheel width? Recalling Cary and Jon's previous posts, I think they know a lot more about this subject than I do. @tube80z, @JMortensen E-production is limited to 15X7" wheels but that's not a terrible thing given the ~260hp EP L24 and the 245 tires. With Volk TE37 wheels and the hoosiers, the combo is remarkably light! I just weighed the wheel/tire combo with my 13.6lb Koenig wheels and its only 33lbs! Again, no expert but that seems pretty darn light for a 245 contact patch. on a 15" wheel.
  7. Ah, yeah I certainly am unfamiliar with GT-2. My perspective is clearly limited. From the conversations I had with Greg and a few others, 245’s Cantilevered slicks on a 15X7” wheel kept the weight of the whole assembly very low while providing quite a bit of contact patch. Of course these are L24-28 NA EP, CP vintage, and VARA cars so greater torque would change the calculus. Fair enough to say you have more and broader experience.
  8. Maybe there are a few folks (my self included) who would be willing to moderate if we were provided permissions but maybe Cary or someone will read. I enjoy the forum and don't feel it is a huge impediment (periodic spam) but I'd be happy to help delete the bots.
  9. Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA
  10. Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA
  11. Hi all! ok, setting class rules aside for the moment, what would be your first choice for brake caliper/rotor setup for a 15” wheel, and why? front And rear. curious whAt the current consensus is. From what I can see, all these vendors are offering big brake kits but no idea if there are any differences: Zcar garage big brake kit T3 big brake kit silvermine MSA
  12. Because they want to make it looked “slammed”. Or whatever the kids call it these days. im kidding, I think it’s cool that everyone’s got a style in mind. I agree it’s not a performance oriented decision though. Z’s set up for racing rarely go wider than 15X7 because of a combination of racing rules, reduced weight (both in the wheel/tire combo and the much lighter ~1900lb or less, car), and generally topping out at 250-350 for NA L-series motors. I feel the early s30’s are closer to a Miata than other popular and larger modern GT cars, in terms of size, weight, and handling.
  13. It sounds cool, and it certainly would be a great platform for a 1/4-mile drag. I just think as a road vehicle 700hp(the torque is the dangerous part) in a sub-3000lbs car means one of two things. Either you won’t use all that torque on the road (you will choose not to use WOT), or you will slip and slide and have the potential to total the car. Cage is a must for chassis stiffening let alone safety, but even with all the safety stuff you can still total your prized possession. After 20 years, I guess what I’m saying is bigger isn’t always better unless you are competing in a closed/controlled course.
  14. Those holes are really quite easy to weld shut if you have already committed to re-painting the cowl cover. Otherwise, the easiest and most convenient thing to do is measure the hole opening and buy a rubber flush plug, like all the other spots on the unibody. Weld or no-weld, it will be difficult to get a true delete (like it was never there) without refinishing the whole cover. Color-matching, filler work, etc. The piece is small enough to have sent-out for media blasting.
  15. In my experience, adding coolant to the turbo bearing cartridge is most valuable in preventing the oil from cooking (and fouling the bearing) between boosting. If you have appropriate oil pressure at your turbo, you should have sufficient flow to keep the bearing cool during operation. The coolant is a heat-sink to prevent the bearing and oil temperature from peaking above when the oil begins depositing coke dramatically (300deg+?). Most valuable for short runs where the car drops back to idle with a glowing-hot turbine housing, simultaneously oil pressure dropping (idle). I have seen folks with typical oil-bearings without a turbo-timer having no problem thanks to the water jacket. In general, I just let the car idle for 5 minutes before shutting down. In this way, the thermal-syphon works pretty darn well. Even is worst-case, temperature of the water rises above 250 it will start to vaporize which makes room for water column to take its place. If done correctly, it should be self-correcting (some call it fail-safe). At least for street applications, I have not seen a need to ensure active flow through the bearing housing. Always exceptions. These are just general observations.
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