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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on February 22

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About AydinZ71

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  1. Digital fish scale. 600lbs capacity. Assume +-5% error or to within nearest pound, whichever is greater. R200 open diff, no oil, with cover, no stub axles, including front yoke: 70 R180 from Subaru STI w/ helical LSD, no oil or stub axles, with cover and front yoke: 56 280z halfshafts (drive axles), with diff stub axles attached, left and right: 31 280z front diff mount: 3.1
  2. Just got My head back from Steve’s Machine Shop in Azusa, CA. Here are some pictures and specs. Looking forward to getting her on and running. - N42 head as a core - exhaust valve and seats fabricated to 35mm to meet OEM L24 diameter (race spec limited ). N42 came with 38mm exhaust valves - chambers debured, ground and polished - valve seats deshrouded and some clearance added to exhaust valve seat. - ports ground to 1” into runner, and port matched to manifold (race spec limited) - deck machined to a volume of 38.5cc - with gasket volume and a piton-
  3. If you are a technical junkie like I am, you will always be gathering specs on various parts and options. I thought I would get a thread going with my own first-hand measurements as I go along. I bought a 600lb fish scale for this purpose. For the sake of argument, let’s say it is accurate to the nearest pound or 5%, whichever is greater. Weights are in pounds (Lbs) R200 open diff, no oil, with cover, no stub axles, including front yoke: 70 R180 from Subaru STI w/ helical LSD, no oil or stub axles, with cover and front yoke: 56 280z halfshafts (drive axles)
  4. I will have an P90a head in great shape (with hydraulic lifters) available for purchase in April. Off of a running L28et. Might consider new valve oil seals, but otherwise does not require any work.
  5. sorry friend. 250hp on an NA L24E will cost you $10-15k and will not be enjoyable to drive on the street. 300 is impossible NA without NOS. Adapting a turbo will cost you the same on an L24 as it will on an L28. If you really want those power numbers, consider a modern engine swap, an L28et from a 280zx with bolt-on mods and tuning $4000, or throw $5000 at an NA 280z and turbo it.
  6. @clarkspeed yep i think that's what I'm going to do. The passenger side inspection lid cubie is currently occupied by the engine vent and radiator overflow reservoirs, so i just need to relocate them.
  7. In case you would consider FRP over steel, ZTrix Makes them. They can also build them to accept window regulators, doors cards, etc. I just ordered an FRP hatch from them for the race car.
  8. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
  9. right!? I think the previous owner just wanted to meet the regulation for driver protection and didn’t give much thought to rigidity. @gnosez gave me a lot to think about on tie-rod compression stress on heavy braking with slicks. Il use this point to brace the tie rod box vertically, and il add another reinforcement lower in the car to brace the horizontal flex.
  10. @MetalMagoo here is my current disaster. I am going to build a reinforced L-bracket and weld it to the end of the roll cage. Then I have a platform to run additional steel tube reinforcement. I didn’t like how it just terminated at the firewall, without taking further advantage of the cage. IMG_5455.MOV
  11. hmmm, good consideration! It is an AGM battery, and designed to be mounted flat or upright. The race car has no windows at the moment so not too worried about venting. Il do some more research though! Thanks for giving me something to think about
  12. @JMortensen hey that’s a fascinating read! Thanks for the link! Have you or anyone else tuned in your shock resistance yourselves? I can definitely tell if a car is over dampened, but it’s hard for me to “feel” for the sweet spot. Wondering if shop tuning is a must on this item. I need to get my height, track, and finally camber adjusted before I worry too much about shock acceleration resistance. I’m assuming toe should be neutral, but il read up on that topic shortly.
  13. just thought I’d share something I made incase it inspires someone to give it a go. I fabricated a battery holder for my Braille unit last weekend. Sits in the passenger “hump” right behind where the passenger seat would sit. Made from 20 gauge 304SS. Made some minor measurements to get started, but used the battery as a template for most of the cuts and marking the bend seams. I don’t have metal brake, so I just used a straight-edge, various hammers (including a 2lb sledge) and locking clamps. As some of you have experienced, SS is much less pliable than mild cold-rolled s
  14. How much of am improvement is the double vs. the single adjustable RACE Koni's? Its a big jump in price, and I was curious just how big of a difference it makes. For example, @gnosez described the huge leap in lap times going from a helical to a OS-Giken adjustable clutch LSD. I wonder if anyone has a similar experience between the single vs. double adjustment.
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