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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on July 26

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About AydinZ71

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  1. Understood. I have experience managing ignition and fuel (timing and quantity). I have experience using independent sensors to perform those two functions (and tossing those that come with the engine). However, I do not have any experience managing variable valve timing, or any other active electro-mechanical actuation that needs to take place, beyond fuel and ignition. Question was for the group, if anyone had any direct experience with the Ferarri F136 here. Information online is sparse but I'm still looking. For example, you could not swap a BMW N54 engine, toss the harness, and manage fully independently with a generic EFI system. Many mechanical aspects of the engine are electronically actuated by the BMW ECU (or aftermarket equivalent) which go beyond just ignition timing and fuel. I believe electronic valve actuation also needs to be managed, which i don't have experience with. PS: thank you for the reply
  2. Hey guys! I am hot on this trail. I am shocked at how inexpensive the long block can be had for a 4.2L F136 engine can be on Ebay. Especially when my desired option (rb26dett) is running $5-6k at the moment. Does anyone know if these engines can be managed with a fully independent EFI, or if some part of the mechanical operation must be managed by a Ferarri ECU (such as VVT)? Here is my assessment: PRO 1) these engines sounds GREAT!!! 2) Being a ferarri engine, I am assuming the engineering is impecable, and weight and racing ability has been taken into account. Don't have any direct knowledge though CON 1) parts will be expensive or will need to be fabricated 2) mounts will need to be fabricated. I have some practice with a MIG welder now, so I feel confident on this one.
  3. Ok. I think I have an idea of what to do next time. I have read some people using acetone or laquer thinner to remove the phosphoric acid. I think this might be a better choice, since acetone will not leave a residue, and should remove the acid. Il give it a try next time! i know you can’t just leave the acid on there. It will turn to a white powdery salt of phosphate, and interfere with adhesion.
  4. it sounds like a bad idea to me too... what should I do? I metal needs to be etched and treated for the minor rust in the sanding scratches that are not accessible. I still dont seem to have a solution. I did call POR 15 (not a 2k epoxy), and they said the flash rust is normal and their product is intended to go right over it. I suppose the fundamental issue at hand is this: its impossible to completely degrease bare metal and leave zero film, while still preventing flash or surface rust of some kind. I mean, its kind of an oxy moron isnt it. Bare, degreased metal rusts almost immediately with my 50% humidity. PS: Shitty datsun steel doesnt help
  5. Fascinating! So applying epoxy primer over the "flash rust" is OK? I'm using 2k epoxy primer from Speedokote. Seems to have great reviews, and has gone on easy. Time will tell. I been using both Phosphoric acid products since I cant get all the nooks and crannies. Some of the deeper scratches are also hard to de-scale without removing metal (which is already super thin).
  6. I have both rust mort and por 15 metal prep. They both say to rinse the product off after a time. I’m confused... when I follow the instructions I immediately get surface rust from the water before I apply primer. Is this normal? It seems you would want to prevent re-rusting the surface with water?
  7. Anyone know of a good body shop in Southern California? I have a hatch that needs some metal straightening. Your help is greatly appreciated!
  8. gotcha. So I shouldn’t use my existing home as a core? I was assuming they would be cutting and welding the existing yoke onto the ujoints of my choice. Il take a look at those part numbers thank you!
  9. Not to hijack my own OP (but not totally unrelated), how about the driveshaft? On my old setup, I would routinely destroy the driveshaft @ 300lbs torque on the L28et. If I remember right, it was a 280z unit I would grab from junkyards for the r200 swapped into my 71’. Eventually just got fed up and had a truck shop install a U-joint assembly that was much heavier but lived forever. I think it was a “spicer” joint? This was at least 15 years ago. Given my list of potential engines, I know I will need a custom unit. If I keep my r200, it will need the 4-bolt pattern on the rear and adapt the front spline to whatever tranny will work with the swapped engine. given the SCCA status of the car, I would prefer an aluminum unit since I’m addicted to quick response. Apologies again for being a little clueless. It’s been at least 10 years since I even looked at my old powertrain setup. any thoughts?
  10. I have a local shop that says they will do it for $150 bucks. I might just take the diff and carrier unit with me to them. If i could speak to you more about checking "backlash", i might have more confidence doing it myself. I may be misunderstanding your directions, but do I need a press for the bearings and a quality caliper for measurement? if so, i have neither at the moment :/ I have certainly installed and removed my fair share of R200's on S30's. PITA without a lift, but i can manage.
  11. I recently did a TON of reading on the various types of LSD's. It looks like the "clutch" type is the most aggressive to prevent wheel spin when you are on/off the gas repeatedly. That seems to be the reason it is favored by the drifters. If i understand correctly, the helical come second. it is in the family of "permanent" LSD's, but is more aggressive than a viscous unit. So much to learn.
  12. What do you think of this unit? https://www.ebay.com/i/233389417734?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233389417734&targetid=934800884536&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031107&poi=&campaignid=10763469106&mkgroupid=109143657034&rlsatarget=pla-934800884536&abcId=9300385&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpM_cxOSb6wIVxx-tBh3YtAITEAQYBSABEgKRAPD_BwE
  13. I like that Idea! I will get a hold of them and ask them to quote. I like how well thought out the stuff on their website is, but like most CA suppliers they are super expensive. If these were made in Houston, I am certain they would be 30% cheaper. It could also be that competition is dwindling due to low sales volume.
  14. I appreciate that! Very helpful! I do see them on eBay often. They seem to be anywhere from 1 way, 1.5, and even 2 way clutch LSD’s? how would I replace my current diff center section? Machine shop?
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