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AydinZ71 last won the day on May 4

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About AydinZ71

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  1. This ^ If you are new to tuning, I implore you to run modest boost (6-8psi) I have blown several turbo engines and it has always been a matter of tuning. EFI is repeatable. Carbs wander on A/F ratio over time. In case this is your first experience with turbo’s, do some searching online on the term “detonation”, especially as it relates to boost. Don’t get us wrong, we love triple carbs. They are sexy and sound great. Certainly a performance bump from SU’s. They are however difficult to keep tuned, especially with thin margins like in a turbo application.
  2. That is a cake job on a lathe. Since it is not rotating, you can get away with a mill Start with round stock. A fly mill could do the job if you vary the radius of the cutting head several times. Center hole can be done in a drill press. Thinking of 6061 AL? It machines easier than any other cost effective billet in my opinion. Steel is cheaper but you have to keep it constantly lubricated, which stinks up the place. Also heavy. eastwood sells a wicked mini-lathe for $750. Might find a used one around for half as much! let me Know if I can help! I used to desi
  3. ahh! If you were to go with an A/M vendor for a steering column, who would you go with? It seems the adaptation would not be awfully difficult. It’s not like it rotating at speed so an adapter coupling would not need to be very precise. I gotta say, the OEM steering column is a beast! Very heavy, and mine is not in the best condition. I also don’t like how the firewall transition is at a fixed angle. I would replace this interface with a spherical bearing if I fab’d my own. Interesting that you had the room to move your seat laterally by a whole 1.5”! My used carbeu seats f
  4. nice! Doesn’t look awfully difficult. I’m going to go with the Tilton box but that looks like an elegant solution! previous owner hacked off the front of the pedal box so he could mount the steering column lower (using the cage as support). Jon, did you lower your steering column to account for the lower (I’m presuming) seat mount location? Previous owner mounted the seat directly to the floor. I don’t like that, so I will do the same thing on the drivers side as I did on the passenger side. New seat crossmember with mounting surface 1.5” above floor pan.
  5. My suggestion is to sell your triple carbs, and use the $1,500 to help fund an independent EFI system, injectors, and manifold. Otherwise, if you are enjoying it as is then have fun and good luck!
  6. Well thanks Clark! I thought myself to MIG weld over the past 6 months so novice is certainly the word that comes to mind. I appreciate everyone’s patience as I become more accustomed to the terms and techniques. Greg told me he “ran sep MC’s”. Took me several web searches before I caught on 😂 Tilton’s website was a big help. There are so many ways to skin the damn cat. I mean, as soon as you think you found “the” solution, you catch onto something that is more sophisticated. I suppose that’s how we end up with performance parts for sale over time. He was intrigued with my
  7. I would use a test light and use the ignition diagram in the Haynes manual. There are not many leads that connect to the coil and/or distributor. If your wiring is OEM, the wiring diagram may have the color of the conductors. I know my Z31 Haynes manual did.
  8. I just picked up another pair of GC bolt-in camber plates for the fronts this time. Price has jumped $50 since the last set I bought in nov. I do appreciate how they keep the spring concentric with the shock insert. I’m a fan, but they are not inexpensive, and I had to custom make a socket to fit the tight space between the 14MM threaded nut and the surrounding body. PS: I have four of the original spring perches that come with GC’s coul-over kit anyone needs them. The camber plates come with their own.
  9. Hey thanks! Do you go by Clark? Since the tilton box by itself is only $300, I don’t mind fabing up the mount. I actually prefer it, since my cowl box/plenum/chimney is a rusted nightmare, and I was anxious about how I was going to rebuild the OEM pedal box mounting points. The last $100 is for MC’s which I would need anyways. He runs a 7/8” up front and 1” for rear. I’m most anxious about getting used to no brake booster. Yeah Greg has been super generous with his time. I text back and forth with him to get his opinions on ideas I have. I don’t ever see myself getting into
  10. Agreed. This is for a road racing application. This is also my first experience with a lightweight application. My experience has been mostly OEM, and double pressure plate with a 6-puck unsprung for the turbo car.
  11. Chatting back and forth with Greg Ira. He recommended the Tilton pedal box which is designed with two independent masters (one for front, one for rear) and a balance bar between them. He prefers this approach over the hydraulic proportioning valve. I already have the whole area apart and still doing metal fab so this very much doable for me. Also in my budget since the pedal assembly + cylinders is about $400. My OEM pedal box is rusted pretty bad, and it weighs 8lbs. The Tilton unit is 4lbs. Him and I also discussed flywheels/clutches. He has a design assembly with Q
  12. Sorry, wish i could help ya. I have only owned 70-71 models. Have you considered an entirely universal aluminum pedal box? The S30 OEM unit is quite heavy and crude.
  13. Primer and epoxy coated (white) the rear strut mount so I don’t paint over the bolts when the coat the whole interior. Moved back to the cab in the meantime. OEM fresh air intake is old and brittle, so I created a new flange from 4” steel thin wall tube. Worked out pretty well. Now I can mount ducting to the driver when the car is nearly complete. The white stuff is weld-through primer, and deeper in the air box is 2k epoxy sealer.
  14. Thanks all!!! I have the ground control bolt-in units. I can rig something up if I need .25-.5” more droop Probably weld-on some custom cut fender washers into the plate and get longer bolts, but for now I’m happy
  15. Done re-sectioning the struts! I added as much tube length as I could, but still only ended up with a 1.65” and 1.7” spacer in the bottom of the tubes. If I need to add anymore, il have to Bush the camber plate mounting to the tower. Should be much better than before though!
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