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Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. ah man that’s a GREAT question. I think we have learned that I’m incapable of just “flipping” a car. Certainly throw my passion into it. I’d like to race it, and see if paltry skills are up to the challenge of this over-thought race car. To be honest, I have 0 racing experience but I’d like to try! Maybe I get some track time before I get my novice license ($2200 course). heck I’d even be willing to loan the car to a driver at the track to get their perspective and learnings on how the car is handling (and should handle). I do have a lot of great canyons and windy roads
  2. Agreed! Yeah the rule of thumb you provided sounds pretty close to what we apply in engineering. We use AL over Steel when considering other huge differences in performance like Ductility, machinability, resistance to chemicals and corrosion etc. My lightweight-structures professor thought a whole lecture on when you use AL and over steel. He actually got into how AL was “made” for aircraft as it meets the weight/lift performance and the forces on an aircraft are all distributed very evenly. AL isn’t great at dealing with long-term vibration, shock, heat cycling, and spot welding
  3. Agree with @rturbo 930. The L series head is not designed in a way to meet simultaneous goals of high output and street ability. I mean, for the time it was designed it’s a fantastic engine. even when you put in a race cam with high lift and long duration, the 2-valve setup and modestly sized runners are going to limit you (even on a P90). There are some bench test results out there that shows the L series head flows only a fraction of what a modern DOHC I4 can handle, like a k24 or even an SR20. All this to say, getting above 220hp on a 3.0L stroker will start to exhibit loss in
  4. Added a fresh-air engine intake as well (terminates to a 3” flange for mounting a duct). Greg has some critical comments so I may have gone a bit too far. I may have spent too much time on this 😂 IMG_7088.MOV IMG_7091.MP4
  5. hey that is really helpful Clark! I’d love to run EFI on a 3.0L if I could! Be nice to have a reliable, consistent race engine. Carbs are such a pain. the background you provided on the different groups and classes was helpful! Since EP has such a well-documented rule book, I gravitated to that class since it’s more on spec and less reliant of experience (dealing with judges). So far everything was purchased, built, and installed to meet EP (including the 2.4L and head mods). there are a few other things that are borderline, like my engine bay to cowl vent relief, or new circle cro
  6. I got the top crossmember in today. Still some work to do, but the hard part is over
  7. Thanks @clarkspeed @jhm! For some reason I thought some of the vintage org’s were pretty lax on engine specs if it looks stock and still using carbs 🤷🏽‍♂️. For instance, I know Greg is running HSR next week and he has a crazy hot cam that would never fly in EP. I would never bother putting the 3L in SCCA. People know their stuff and I would look silly (unless like you said, I was classed right). It is pretty damn tempting to throw in a 3L though! john, I just finished the fresh-air intakes. Here are some pics with the radiator lower mount in as well. I need to bridge across
  8. Same. I don’t have a TIG. Lack the skill now, but more importantly a decent one is expensive! The Lincoln electric MIG already set me back $400. Honestly, steel is the way to go for structural. You don’t get as much weight/strength savings as you would imagine going AL. AL is great as skin material though, where you are not leveraging the qualities of steel on a tube frame, the way it’s essential on a unibody. your build is looking great!
  9. Some updates, and a few questions for the phenomenal team here! 1) finally got my hands on a decent L28 short block core (N42). Need to decide on whether to use this with the V07 crank I have to make a 3.1L for vintage racing, or for a 3.0L L28et for the street Z. Open to suggestions! I already have the L28et (F54 block), but don’t have the time or space to pull that motor out the street Z. It is mechanically stock, and needs a rebuild. 2) I got my stahl header! She is a beauty. Any thoughts on the collector? She ends in 2X 2-1/4” tubes now. I can go single conventional f
  10. I have a suggestion if you are planning on rebuilding the fuel cell mount. Look into thin-wall stainless steel seamless tubing. I use it for high pressure applications in oil and gas. It’s a bit hard to weld to, as it burns through easily. However, it is phenomenally strong in tension, and has a pretty good crush resistance. It’s the lightest, strongest tube I have worked with. Not as light as AL, but stronger in tension per unit weight and weldable with a MIG. I am using it for some light structural stiffening near my radiator mount.
  11. @JMortensen @clarkspeed thanks for all the help Jon, Clark! Yep his will definitely help me once I get to the windshield. I may not be that far away! updates: 1) got a push/pull remote actuator for my Accusump. I don’t want to have that much warm oil in my cab, and it’s time to start mock-fitting all the components so I can make brackets and drill holes before primer. 2) settled on an oil cooler. Setrab series 6 34-row. Good balance of performance, price ($300) and pressure-drop (2psi). Needed it in-hand to lock-up the front and get brackets in. 3
  12. Thanks @clarkspeed! Where do you get your Lexan from? I found A local spot that sells the right thickness I need for about $200 for a 4’X4” sheet. With your input, I think i will give it a shot!
  13. If you are able to rule-out fuel pressure, try checking/replacing your ignition system consumables and replacement parts. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil. Check your ignition timing to make sure it has not wandered. in my case, most times I have had poor cold-start was because my Spark had weakened or become inconsistent. This is most obvious when the car is cold. Once she is up and running, a poor/inconsistent spark can improve as the ignition parts and plug warm.
  14. Can’t argue with that! My Brian is in “race car” mode, and I’d probably stick to soft bushings for a street car too. honestly I feel like you are probably OK to just reuse them. If I remember right, the 22mm bolt goes right into that sleeve you cut right? The bolt will keep the tube from collapsing. The plausible failure mode here is the lateral stress cracks/peels the steel back at the spot you nicked, but could it really go far enough for the bolt to come out? More likely it causes the bolt to loosen. PU bushings are more rigid, and will “hold” the OD of that tube better but they
  15. If you look at the risk, it might just be easier to buy one for like $50. All the T3 and Apex junkies are throwing away their OEM LCA’s like they are bras at a Grateful Dead concert. I bet you could snag one in decent shape. if it were me, I would cut off the whole end and make it a Heim/end-link, but I recognize most folks may not feel confident.
  16. I have been weighing OEM components (albeit rusted) as I remove them, and weighing the replaced metal. Here is what I found: 1) the OEM pedal assembly & steering column mount. Going to Tilton assembly net 3lbs savings (including the independent rear brake MC). 2) cowl being replaced with 20-gauge single layer of steel saved about 4lbs. 3) engine bay unibody frame stiffener: this was a wash. The stainless tube is pretty heavy, but is a more efficient cross-section and I stronger. 4) my reinforced rockers added about 3lbs per side. 5) lit
  17. Other things I’m working on, and a few questions for the team: 1) bought all the electric gauges I need, and working on gathering the sending units and wiring leads. Settled on: tach w/ light. fuel pressure 0-12psi oil pressure oil temp Water temp fuel level Volts 2) looking at oil coolers. Setrab most likely. Struggling to determine if an “oversized” unit would be bad in any way. The oil can’t get too cool when racing since water temp is thermostatically regulated and a cooler oil will just warm to the block/water temp. 🤷🏽‍♂️.
  18. Latest updates. Replacing my rusted unibody frame stiffener w/ 316 SS tube. Will box-out the front, mount the rad for clearance, and replace the top crossmember next. Also finished my little project replacing my rusted cowl box with an engine vent out of the OEM cowl vents. Might not fly with the SCCA judges, but I can always block this off with a sheet of steel if I have to. IMG_6894.MOV IMG_6878.MOV
  19. Sweet! Sounds like you have it figured out. The front-end scraper is a great idea. How do you plan to mold the front-end radiator shroud? Keep the slip-stream from going over the rad. Plastic or AL? ideally I want to run a air splitter from the 280z FRP bumper, and use the bottom intake for the oil cooler. Setrab makes a really neat, long oil cooler that would span the width, but they are super expensive (~$500). Their regular oil coolers are about half that. I am tearing my front-end apart. Il post some pics.
  20. Looking good!! Did you fabricate the G-nose yourself? Any reason you wrapped the AL sheet in fiberglass, vs. leaving the air dam as AL instead?
  21. Does the problem go away after she is warmed up? Start running OK after 10 min? If so, the cold starting capabilities of your OEM EFI have been compromised. I don’t know Enough about the OEM system to help diagnose though. Usually and easy fix is to artificially increase your idle with the throttle body set-screw, but you will be running higher rpm’s at idle once warmed up. unless there is something mechanically wrong, it can only be fuel, spark, or air. Air is unlikely since you have a single throttle body, and you have already tried adjusting your idle Screw. Spark is eas
  22. @Datz44 thanks friend! I think you should decide one of the following courses: 1) race in an SCCA class w/ very very specific rules 2) race in a vintage league. Less competitive and the rules are really loose. 3) build whatever you want, and just enjoy track days, time trials, etc. your decision on what car to build and how, will be very dependent on this decision. If going with #1, definitely go for the 240z. It is one of the most competitive weight/power potential in the production class. If going for #2, id buy a cheaper 280z chassis and lighten th
  23. @88dangerdan yep! Just like that @mainboyd yeah I think the purpose of the cable hand brake requirement makes a bit of sense. Hydraulic systems can fail. Leaks, a cut line, an accident, etc. having a back-up means of braking in an emergency that does not rely on the same materials (reservoir, etc) has some merit. Now we all know the cables stretch, and they are a pain in the ass to maintain though. The OEM drum brakes are actually an elegant design when observing in hindsight. Unless you have some reason for your car to be inspected, I’m not sure anyone would know of an
  24. I’m not aware of any driveshafts for an S30 that came with replaceable u-joints. Hopefully I’m incorrect, and someone can correct me.
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