Jump to content


Donating Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. Looks good!! Does your class require the outside dimensions of the car to be OEM? If I was building something nearly from scratch as you are, I would raise the floor bottom by a 3/4". After the exhaust and crossmembers, the floor pan support rail is the next interference point for lowering a car in my experience on the street car. Maybe I would mock it up and change my mind. Fun to kick around the idea. Another thought I had recently was to replace the heavy crossmember that runs behind your head. Its what has your rear hatch mounting points. it seems to me the method of stacking
  2. This ^ If you are new to tuning, I implore you to run modest boost (6-8psi) I have blown several turbo engines and it has always been a matter of tuning. EFI is repeatable. Carbs wander on A/F ratio over time. In case this is your first experience with turbo’s, do some searching online on the term “detonation”, especially as it relates to boost. Don’t get us wrong, we love triple carbs. They are sexy and sound great. Certainly a performance bump from SU’s. They are however difficult to keep tuned, especially with thin margins like in a turbo application.
  3. That is a cake job on a lathe. Since it is not rotating, you can get away with a mill Start with round stock. A fly mill could do the job if you vary the radius of the cutting head several times. Center hole can be done in a drill press. Thinking of 6061 AL? It machines easier than any other cost effective billet in my opinion. Steel is cheaper but you have to keep it constantly lubricated, which stinks up the place. Also heavy. eastwood sells a wicked mini-lathe for $750. Might find a used one around for half as much! let me Know if I can help! I used to desi
  4. ahh! If you were to go with an A/M vendor for a steering column, who would you go with? It seems the adaptation would not be awfully difficult. It’s not like it rotating at speed so an adapter coupling would not need to be very precise. I gotta say, the OEM steering column is a beast! Very heavy, and mine is not in the best condition. I also don’t like how the firewall transition is at a fixed angle. I would replace this interface with a spherical bearing if I fab’d my own. Interesting that you had the room to move your seat laterally by a whole 1.5”! My used carbeu seats f
  5. nice! Doesn’t look awfully difficult. I’m going to go with the Tilton box but that looks like an elegant solution! previous owner hacked off the front of the pedal box so he could mount the steering column lower (using the cage as support). Jon, did you lower your steering column to account for the lower (I’m presuming) seat mount location? Previous owner mounted the seat directly to the floor. I don’t like that, so I will do the same thing on the drivers side as I did on the passenger side. New seat crossmember with mounting surface 1.5” above floor pan.
  6. My suggestion is to sell your triple carbs, and use the $1,500 to help fund an independent EFI system, injectors, and manifold. Otherwise, if you are enjoying it as is then have fun and good luck!
  7. Well thanks Clark! I thought myself to MIG weld over the past 6 months so novice is certainly the word that comes to mind. I appreciate everyone’s patience as I become more accustomed to the terms and techniques. Greg told me he “ran sep MC’s”. Took me several web searches before I caught on 😂 Tilton’s website was a big help. There are so many ways to skin the damn cat. I mean, as soon as you think you found “the” solution, you catch onto something that is more sophisticated. I suppose that’s how we end up with performance parts for sale over time. He was intrigued with my
  8. I would use a test light and use the ignition diagram in the Haynes manual. There are not many leads that connect to the coil and/or distributor. If your wiring is OEM, the wiring diagram may have the color of the conductors. I know my Z31 Haynes manual did.
  9. I just picked up another pair of GC bolt-in camber plates for the fronts this time. Price has jumped $50 since the last set I bought in nov. I do appreciate how they keep the spring concentric with the shock insert. I’m a fan, but they are not inexpensive, and I had to custom make a socket to fit the tight space between the 14MM threaded nut and the surrounding body. PS: I have four of the original spring perches that come with GC’s coul-over kit anyone needs them. The camber plates come with their own.
  10. Hey thanks! Do you go by Clark? Since the tilton box by itself is only $300, I don’t mind fabing up the mount. I actually prefer it, since my cowl box/plenum/chimney is a rusted nightmare, and I was anxious about how I was going to rebuild the OEM pedal box mounting points. The last $100 is for MC’s which I would need anyways. He runs a 7/8” up front and 1” for rear. I’m most anxious about getting used to no brake booster. Yeah Greg has been super generous with his time. I text back and forth with him to get his opinions on ideas I have. I don’t ever see myself getting into
  11. Agreed. This is for a road racing application. This is also my first experience with a lightweight application. My experience has been mostly OEM, and double pressure plate with a 6-puck unsprung for the turbo car.
  12. Chatting back and forth with Greg Ira. He recommended the Tilton pedal box which is designed with two independent masters (one for front, one for rear) and a balance bar between them. He prefers this approach over the hydraulic proportioning valve. I already have the whole area apart and still doing metal fab so this very much doable for me. Also in my budget since the pedal assembly + cylinders is about $400. My OEM pedal box is rusted pretty bad, and it weighs 8lbs. The Tilton unit is 4lbs. Him and I also discussed flywheels/clutches. He has a design assembly with Q
  13. Sorry, wish i could help ya. I have only owned 70-71 models. Have you considered an entirely universal aluminum pedal box? The S30 OEM unit is quite heavy and crude.
  14. Primer and epoxy coated (white) the rear strut mount so I don’t paint over the bolts when the coat the whole interior. Moved back to the cab in the meantime. OEM fresh air intake is old and brittle, so I created a new flange from 4” steel thin wall tube. Worked out pretty well. Now I can mount ducting to the driver when the car is nearly complete. The white stuff is weld-through primer, and deeper in the air box is 2k epoxy sealer.
  15. Thanks all!!! I have the ground control bolt-in units. I can rig something up if I need .25-.5” more droop Probably weld-on some custom cut fender washers into the plate and get longer bolts, but for now I’m happy
  16. Done re-sectioning the struts! I added as much tube length as I could, but still only ended up with a 1.65” and 1.7” spacer in the bottom of the tubes. If I need to add anymore, il have to Bush the camber plate mounting to the tower. Should be much better than before though!
  17. Can you afford a wideband gauge? I could give you some tips on using that to tune your AF. You can tune the RPM fuel increments while idling at various RPM’s, and will need to be on a deserted road or mostly empty freeway to tune the manifold pressure fuel increments since you need the load. Stick to 4th gear which is 1:1 on most transmissions. Glad you got it to idle better. Definitely check your timing with a light. Suggest using factory settings to start. I can take a picture of my 280zx Haynes manual if you need the numbers. Always room to tweek the timing after you get your AF ri
  18. Yeah man... plywood sounds cheesy but it is super durable. The wood is laid in alternating grain so it is uniformly strong in both axis. Great stuff for an application that will see a lot of vibration, rocks, flexing
  19. Thanks as always Ben! Then I’m going for the Exedy and the 10-lb forged steel flywheel. Zcargarage has one listed for $350. Anyone have any experience with them? Back to the rear suspension. Got one completely welded. Wow this was a lot of work, but @JMortensen’s technique for keeping the tube concentric worked like a charm. Strut slid in and out. The weld is messier than I wanted, but I had to be sure I did not penetrate the tube. I did get some 1/16” bead penetration in some spots, but I was lucky it was on the short side. I was able to use a die grinder to clean it up. I also welded a
  20. I have seen them posted for $800-$1200 on offer-up mostly (in the LA area) depending on condition. I think the stroked L28 crowd are the ones who are willing to shell out for one. If you want to move it quick, search every platform (especially Facebook) and price yours $100 lower than everyone else’s. Someone will buy it.
  21. While I scavenge the time to re-section my rear struts, I thought I would look forward a bit to the flywheel/clutch scope. I’m pulling the short block and 4-Spd soon so I can check what flywheel/clutch the previous owner had on there before I rush into buying new parts. I already hear from you all that I should go with the lightest flywheel I can. I’m looking at the 10-lbs steel unit sold by a handful of sources. How about the clutch? Given the modest torque of even a race-prepped L24 on SU’s, are there any reasons to run a A/M clutch for a racing application? I chatted a bit with
  22. Update. Everything disassembled again, and bought some angle stock per Jmortensen. For the spacer, I went with 1-5/8, 0.14 wall 6061 AL. Fits pretty well (see pic). I didn’t want to go solid stock since I don’t want to flatten the natural curvature of the strut inserts bottom. Hollow also helps with concentricity. figure this is dead weight and only in compression, so why not AL. Stuff is practically free in my metal supplies discount bin. Let me know if you guys see an issue there.
  23. I have never tried what @NewZed suggested by lifting the car and running through the gears, but he has a lot of experience. I was always too chicken to try that, but with 2 people you will find the problem in no time. The R180 was going to break with a SBC. I looked up a ZZ4 crate motor and it looks like you have around 405ft-lbs of torque! Even at 300, the r180 would be suspect. there is one other option... if y’all want to go big. @Invincibleextremes sells a kit for dropping in a mustang super 8.8 diff. His total kit is less than $1500 and you can use an off-the-shelf mus
  24. Thanks a bunch!! I will 100% do it this way . Il snap some pics for the community. I got the assemblies off the car yesterday but naturally I forgot to pick up a pipe wrench for the darn gland nut. Borrowing tools never works when you think it’s “one and done” haha. good call on the hose clamps. Without that tip I would have probably tacked them on.
  25. how much torque is your V8 pulling? Just remember, torque is what breaks things on a drivetrain. I would avoid the Subaru unit. It is also an R180. The LSD in there will make launching fun but even more traction means even more things breaking LOL. I’d go with the R200 open if you don’t mind peeling out in low gears. The cheapest LSD options that are worthwhile on an R200 start at around $1k, and still require some assembly. Meanwhile, I sold my open R200 recently (with axle shafts) for $350 recently. also, search “technoversions 240z” in a browser and pick up a top-mount for the di
  • Create New...