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Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. Digital fish scale. 600lbs capacity. Assume +-5% error or to within nearest pound, whichever is greater. R200 open diff, no oil, with cover, no stub axles, including front yoke: 70 R180 from Subaru STI w/ helical LSD, no oil or stub axles, with cover and front yoke: 56 280z halfshafts (drive axles), with diff stub axles attached, left and right: 31 280z front diff mount: 3.1
  2. Just got My head back from Steve’s Machine Shop in Azusa, CA. Here are some pictures and specs. Looking forward to getting her on and running. - N42 head as a core - exhaust valve and seats fabricated to 35mm to meet OEM L24 diameter (race spec limited ). N42 came with 38mm exhaust valves - chambers debured, ground and polished - valve seats deshrouded and some clearance added to exhaust valve seat. - ports ground to 1” into runner, and port matched to manifold (race spec limited) - deck machined to a volume of 38.5cc - with gasket volume and a piton-
  3. If you are a technical junkie like I am, you will always be gathering specs on various parts and options. I thought I would get a thread going with my own first-hand measurements as I go along. I bought a 600lb fish scale for this purpose. For the sake of argument, let’s say it is accurate to the nearest pound or 5%, whichever is greater. Weights are in pounds (Lbs) R200 open diff, no oil, with cover, no stub axles, including front yoke: 70 R180 from Subaru STI w/ helical LSD, no oil or stub axles, with cover and front yoke: 56 280z halfshafts (drive axles)
  4. I will have an P90a head in great shape (with hydraulic lifters) available for purchase in April. Off of a running L28et. Might consider new valve oil seals, but otherwise does not require any work.
  5. sorry friend. 250hp on an NA L24E will cost you $10-15k and will not be enjoyable to drive on the street. 300 is impossible NA without NOS. Adapting a turbo will cost you the same on an L24 as it will on an L28. If you really want those power numbers, consider a modern engine swap, an L28et from a 280zx with bolt-on mods and tuning $4000, or throw $5000 at an NA 280z and turbo it.
  6. @clarkspeed yep i think that's what I'm going to do. The passenger side inspection lid cubie is currently occupied by the engine vent and radiator overflow reservoirs, so i just need to relocate them.
  7. In case you would consider FRP over steel, ZTrix Makes them. They can also build them to accept window regulators, doors cards, etc. I just ordered an FRP hatch from them for the race car.
  8. I have yet to meet a shitty Dutch performance part vendor. Koni is Dutch as well. If they had a bigger country, maybe they would make cars too 🤷🏽‍♂️😂
  9. right!? I think the previous owner just wanted to meet the regulation for driver protection and didn’t give much thought to rigidity. @gnosez gave me a lot to think about on tie-rod compression stress on heavy braking with slicks. Il use this point to brace the tie rod box vertically, and il add another reinforcement lower in the car to brace the horizontal flex.
  10. @MetalMagoo here is my current disaster. I am going to build a reinforced L-bracket and weld it to the end of the roll cage. Then I have a platform to run additional steel tube reinforcement. I didn’t like how it just terminated at the firewall, without taking further advantage of the cage. IMG_5455.MOV
  11. hmmm, good consideration! It is an AGM battery, and designed to be mounted flat or upright. The race car has no windows at the moment so not too worried about venting. Il do some more research though! Thanks for giving me something to think about
  12. @JMortensen hey that’s a fascinating read! Thanks for the link! Have you or anyone else tuned in your shock resistance yourselves? I can definitely tell if a car is over dampened, but it’s hard for me to “feel” for the sweet spot. Wondering if shop tuning is a must on this item. I need to get my height, track, and finally camber adjusted before I worry too much about shock acceleration resistance. I’m assuming toe should be neutral, but il read up on that topic shortly.
  13. just thought I’d share something I made incase it inspires someone to give it a go. I fabricated a battery holder for my Braille unit last weekend. Sits in the passenger “hump” right behind where the passenger seat would sit. Made from 20 gauge 304SS. Made some minor measurements to get started, but used the battery as a template for most of the cuts and marking the bend seams. I don’t have metal brake, so I just used a straight-edge, various hammers (including a 2lb sledge) and locking clamps. As some of you have experienced, SS is much less pliable than mild cold-rolled s
  14. How much of am improvement is the double vs. the single adjustable RACE Koni's? Its a big jump in price, and I was curious just how big of a difference it makes. For example, @gnosez described the huge leap in lap times going from a helical to a OS-Giken adjustable clutch LSD. I wonder if anyone has a similar experience between the single vs. double adjustment.
  15. @rossman Here is a tip, but first my qualification. Started welding 5 months ago. Made many mistakes: going too fast and warping thin sheet, blowing holes, lots of pin-holes, proud welds that need a ton of grinding. First thing I learned is the welder DOES matter, and I now know why. A Lincoln Electric 140 (for example) is what I have now. It either feeds the wire at a consistent speed, or 100% stops (temporarily). This means when you hit a hidden spot of rust, or your arch is losing a solid circuit, the wire keeps traction in the machine or worse, bind. The gun may push back on y
  16. Almost forgot... you will start wearing out the stock driveshaft U-joints (non replaceable) and diff front mount around 250+ft-lbs. I went through many driveshafts before having a custom one made. There is a great solution for the R180/200 front diff mount on the market now for about 100 bucks
  17. i agree. I mean... for anything over 250hp working from scratch, LSX is hard to beat for a cost effective build. The rest is personal preference and secondary considerations (like efficiency). Once you break your Nissan 5-speed, the only reliable upgrade I have found is a custom bellhousing for a CD00X tranny from a 350/370z. If you feel like breaking more trannies, they are practically giving away Nissan 4-speeds here in Socal. if you are not driving this every day, then fuel economy is not an issue and LSX makes sense. you will need to consider an LSD regardless, b
  18. Just to be clear, the stock pistons+rings MIGHT do OK with a low enough static CR. For example, I never ran stock L28 dished pistons with the P90. I believe there are folks on here who have and did not express ring wear issues. There just isn’t much margin for error. L28 dished pistons + P90 head is your best case. P90a is a great head but has hydraulic lifters which are expensive to replace. You are also unable to adjust lash, and therefore are restricted for the stock cam (again, OK for up to 400). If you go forget pistons, you will need to machine your cylinders and rings to tight
  19. Many thanks John! @jhm I will take this feedback and run with it! I found 3/16” inverted flare lines with 10mm metric threads at O’reily’s, so I should be good on the lines. I plan to get the tees and any misc. fittings from McMaster Carr or Fedhill like you mentioned. as always, it’s the little things right? Still waiting on my 3/16” “rubber” lined tube clamps to come in from amazon. I need to weld-in some #10 nuts in the tunnel and underbody to mount the lines. Most of the existing mount points were either cut by my predecessor, or by me so I could eliminate rust. I’m going
  20. As @NewZedmentioned, I’m just now getting back into the turbo L series world again after a 20 year hiatus. I have added a turbo to an L24 (twice) with independent EFI, and built an L28et as well. The only other consideration not mentioned by him are the pistons. The turbo pistons have the first piston ring further down from the crown. I believe the purpose was to move them further from the combustion gases since ring failure is much more common due to excessive heat caused by elevated cylinder pressures. Aside from flowing better, the P90 will give you a CR around 7.5 on dished pis
  21. yep! You can apply it on top of the epoxy too! Even after coating, it’s not a bad idea to apply wax or a stable/thick oil such as lanolin into inaccessible areas. Can’t hurt just don’t use something unstable like WD-40. It will eventually break down over time and will not keep its surface tension indefinitely.
  22. Thanks John! I'm going to stick with this valve for now (unless someone else has negative feedback) since I can easily change it out later. I also already made the mount for it to be accessible through the center console (see pic). if I understood you correctly, I can run brake lines directly from the master cylinder to tees leading to each wheel? If so, I just need to keep track of which reservoirs feeds the front vs. rear brakes? The proportioning valve looks like it just restricts pressure to the rear wheels, unless the previous owner installed it incorrectly.
  23. Hi folks! The race car came with this guy in the cabin. It was crudely installed, so I just fabricated a mount so the brake lines can persist in the tunnel and not run into the cab like they are now. Is anyone familiar with this valve, and is it any good? It looks like what MSA sold years ago. im also confused how this works with the OEM brake balance/manifold in the engine bay. I took the valve apart, and it looks to be a simple spring loaded globe valve with an an adjustment knob. Not too dissimilar to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Just want to make s
  24. You are absolutely correct. Since I posted this, I went back and checked the rule book. No way this will compete in ITS. It has been lightened extensively. No way I can add-back 200lbs to meet the min weight, amongst other things. This car will continue as spec EP, but will qualify for some other vintage specs (beyond SCCA). If I race it myself, It will likely be vintage club and maybe SCCA vintage racing, as I don’t have the time to train or funds to compete in EP (at least for the time being). I had a great conversation with @gnosez and he was super helpful! Going to take her to
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