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AydinZ71

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Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. Understood. I have experience managing ignition and fuel (timing and quantity). I have experience using independent sensors to perform those two functions (and tossing those that come with the engine). However, I do not have any experience managing variable valve timing, or any other active electro-mechanical actuation that needs to take place, beyond fuel and ignition. Question was for the group, if anyone had any direct experience with the Ferarri F136 here. Information online is sparse but I'm still looking. For example, you could not swap a BMW N54 engine, toss the harness, and manage fully independently with a generic EFI system. Many mechanical aspects of the engine are electronically actuated by the BMW ECU (or aftermarket equivalent) which go beyond just ignition timing and fuel. I believe electronic valve actuation also needs to be managed, which i don't have experience with. PS: thank you for the reply
  2. Hey guys! I am hot on this trail. I am shocked at how inexpensive the long block can be had for a 4.2L F136 engine can be on Ebay. Especially when my desired option (rb26dett) is running $5-6k at the moment. Does anyone know if these engines can be managed with a fully independent EFI, or if some part of the mechanical operation must be managed by a Ferarri ECU (such as VVT)? Here is my assessment: PRO 1) these engines sounds GREAT!!! 2) Being a ferarri engine, I am assuming the engineering is impecable, and weight and racing ability has been taken into account. Don't have any direct knowledge though CON 1) parts will be expensive or will need to be fabricated 2) mounts will need to be fabricated. I have some practice with a MIG welder now, so I feel confident on this one.
  3. Ok. I think I have an idea of what to do next time. I have read some people using acetone or laquer thinner to remove the phosphoric acid. I think this might be a better choice, since acetone will not leave a residue, and should remove the acid. Il give it a try next time! i know you can’t just leave the acid on there. It will turn to a white powdery salt of phosphate, and interfere with adhesion.
  4. it sounds like a bad idea to me too... what should I do? I metal needs to be etched and treated for the minor rust in the sanding scratches that are not accessible. I still dont seem to have a solution. I did call POR 15 (not a 2k epoxy), and they said the flash rust is normal and their product is intended to go right over it. I suppose the fundamental issue at hand is this: its impossible to completely degrease bare metal and leave zero film, while still preventing flash or surface rust of some kind. I mean, its kind of an oxy moron isnt it. Bare, degreased metal rusts almost immediately with my 50% humidity. PS: Shitty datsun steel doesnt help
  5. Fascinating! So applying epoxy primer over the "flash rust" is OK? I'm using 2k epoxy primer from Speedokote. Seems to have great reviews, and has gone on easy. Time will tell. I been using both Phosphoric acid products since I cant get all the nooks and crannies. Some of the deeper scratches are also hard to de-scale without removing metal (which is already super thin).
  6. I have both rust mort and por 15 metal prep. They both say to rinse the product off after a time. I’m confused... when I follow the instructions I immediately get surface rust from the water before I apply primer. Is this normal? It seems you would want to prevent re-rusting the surface with water?
  7. Anyone know of a good body shop in Southern California? I have a hatch that needs some metal straightening. Your help is greatly appreciated!
  8. gotcha. So I shouldn’t use my existing home as a core? I was assuming they would be cutting and welding the existing yoke onto the ujoints of my choice. Il take a look at those part numbers thank you!
  9. Not to hijack my own OP (but not totally unrelated), how about the driveshaft? On my old setup, I would routinely destroy the driveshaft @ 300lbs torque on the L28et. If I remember right, it was a 280z unit I would grab from junkyards for the r200 swapped into my 71’. Eventually just got fed up and had a truck shop install a U-joint assembly that was much heavier but lived forever. I think it was a “spicer” joint? This was at least 15 years ago. Given my list of potential engines, I know I will need a custom unit. If I keep my r200, it will need the 4-bolt pattern on the rear and adapt the front spline to whatever tranny will work with the swapped engine. given the SCCA status of the car, I would prefer an aluminum unit since I’m addicted to quick response. Apologies again for being a little clueless. It’s been at least 10 years since I even looked at my old powertrain setup. any thoughts?
  10. I have a local shop that says they will do it for $150 bucks. I might just take the diff and carrier unit with me to them. If i could speak to you more about checking "backlash", i might have more confidence doing it myself. I may be misunderstanding your directions, but do I need a press for the bearings and a quality caliper for measurement? if so, i have neither at the moment :/ I have certainly installed and removed my fair share of R200's on S30's. PITA without a lift, but i can manage.
  11. I recently did a TON of reading on the various types of LSD's. It looks like the "clutch" type is the most aggressive to prevent wheel spin when you are on/off the gas repeatedly. That seems to be the reason it is favored by the drifters. If i understand correctly, the helical come second. it is in the family of "permanent" LSD's, but is more aggressive than a viscous unit. So much to learn.
  12. What do you think of this unit? https://www.ebay.com/i/233389417734?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233389417734&targetid=934800884536&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031107&poi=&campaignid=10763469106&mkgroupid=109143657034&rlsatarget=pla-934800884536&abcId=9300385&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpM_cxOSb6wIVxx-tBh3YtAITEAQYBSABEgKRAPD_BwE
  13. I like that Idea! I will get a hold of them and ask them to quote. I like how well thought out the stuff on their website is, but like most CA suppliers they are super expensive. If these were made in Houston, I am certain they would be 30% cheaper. It could also be that competition is dwindling due to low sales volume.
  14. I appreciate that! Very helpful! I do see them on eBay often. They seem to be anywhere from 1 way, 1.5, and even 2 way clutch LSD’s? how would I replace my current diff center section? Machine shop?
  15. First off, I want to thank all fo you for your diligent consideration, information, and opinions! Really appreciate it. I admit I convoluted the situation by introducing so many variables. Let’s set cost aside for now since that is a personal decision somewhat disjointed from technical aspects. i agree with all of you that impulse (force/time) is ultimately what breaks things. Even low torque “slammed” onto drivetrain components at a stand-still or at high speed, will break stuff. what is driving my interest is the clear need for an LSD. In that pursuit, I don’t want to make an investment that may break early. My plan: The 71’ i recently purchased is a former regulation SCCA race car. It has a full cage, fuel cell, and stripped down to essentials. I want to keep it as a car worthy of a track, but not interested in keeping the “stock” class (currently has SU’s, non original L24, 4 speed). It will not be daily driven. I live at the foothills of Angeles crest here in Los Angeles, so most of the time it will be mountain/canyon carving. Hence, acceleration and cornering will be key, but not top speed. It’s just too dangerous to speed on these roads, but hard acceleration and deceleration into visible turns is what I need. I will not be launching from a standstill often, and even less so “dumping” the clutch on sticky tires. I will however be putting all that torque on and off the drivetrain repeatedly. when COVID is in our rear view, I would like to return her to the track, but I doubt I will be racing competitively. i say 450lbs max, but that’s really way in the future. I’m currently considering everything from an SR20det for the weight savings, to an RB26 because it was my childhood dream. I will probably keep either engine stock in the short term until the brakes and drivetrain catch up. i built an L28et running 16psi and ~300lbs of torque back in 2002. I had an open r200 and obviously struggled with traction The instant she hit boost.
  16. Hi! I’m trying to settle on two options. Not exactly apples to apples, but I’m focused on comparing difficulty is sourcing parts and torque capability vs weight drawbacks. Of course price is a consideration. Open to others, but so far this is what I got: 1) wolf creek racing CV shaft conversion with an R180 Subaru lsd 2) techno Toy tuning rear end kit for a r200/230 lsd sourced from various donor cars what are your thoughts? Option one is significantly cheaper, but I will be stuck with stock wheel hubs. Also not aware of the torque limitations on the Subaru lsd’s. I don’t see my plans ever exceeding 450lbs of torque.
  17. I ran a 3” magnaflow straight-through model on my L28et at 300lb torque. Never had any problems. Was quiet enough. just installed a 2.5” dynomax on my 71’ SCCA L24 car. Quiet enough for me, but I agree upsizing if you want to run 300+lbs torque honestly I don’t know why people want their exhaust to be so loud on a Turbo equipped car. When the waste-gate opens, the entire town will hear it.
  18. I don’t have any pics of the engine bay, but 18 years ago I finished a 71’ with an L28et. Put a custom piped Supra IV intercooler in front of the radiator and used the two circular pass-through’s tot he left and right of the radiator for the plumbing. If you are trying to avoid cutting/welding, I would either custom route your intake to just below the radiator (if the car isn’t lowered too much). Otherwise, you could keep the inline filter near the turbo and custom route some ducting for cold air. honestly I just had a 4” intake pipe 12” long with a K&N on it, just to get past the exhaust manifold. Never bothered ducting a cold air intake.
  19. Pretty cool! Nice solution I ended up getting two fuel line check valves. One will be to release pressure from the tank, the other is for vacuum. Both have a light spring pressure they have to overcome, so they will isolate the tank up to a few inches of mercury in either direction. You can see my proposed solution @240z_restomod
  20. @240z_restomod on IG if anyone wants to follow the progress!
  21. Thanks! So far it looks like the floorboards and the lower rear quarter panel have it the worst. I don’t have an air compressor yet for the needle scaler, so in the meantime il be using a grinding wheel and various wire attachments. my plan is to get to bare metal, hit everything I can’t with SEM rust mort, seal it with a corrosion resistant primer, then use underbody coating spray can. any idea on how to get the unreachable spaces like inside the frame rails? They seem to have orifices, but can’t get more than a finger in there. going to por-15 most of the inside.
  22. The previous owner reinstalled brake lights and head lights. I think I’m going to slowly work it into something more for the street. I’m not too focused on comfort since my daily driver is for that. First task is to sand/scrape all the rust and apply converter. Let me know if you have any tips! eventually looking to put in a more modern fuel injected engine. The car is way beyond stock now, so nothing really holding me back. Thinking about an RB25DET with its 5 speed.
  23. My 71’ has a racing fuel cell installed by a previous owner. It has two fuel sending units, a fill orifice, and a simple filter breather for the vapors to escape. unfortunately, my garage Is taking the brunt of those fugitive emissions. Any idea of how I can remedy the fumes? I was thinking of eliminating the breather, and running a hose to a carbon filter canister. No idea where to start looking for one. Anyone have any clever solutions in mind? My background is thermodynamics, but fuel tanks are not my speciality.
  24. Hi all! I bought my original 71’ in 2000, when I was 16. I had to sell the car to move across country. Now that I am settled again, I just bought another 71’. I’m not new to Z’s, but it has been a while. I was a mechanic specializing in Nissan’s back in HS and college. Now I’m an engineer working in the alternative energy industry. my old Z had an L28et with a T3/T4 and IV Supra intercooler. I did all the work myself, and intend to do so again. the one I just purchased seems to be an old SCCA racer. It has a fuel cell, complete cage, engine fire suppression system, stripped completely. Seller claims it has an R200 LSD. While I certainly recognize the R200 back there, I’m still suspicious of whether it is an LSD. its got the P90A hydraulic head, but still sitting on the L24 block. Must have been necessary to qualify in its class. anyways, just wanted to introduce myself!
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