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AydinZ71

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Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. Very cool! Well, naturally I have no advice on the floating rotors haha, but that is pretty darn neat! Impressive. We seem to be on counter-schedules. You seem to make the most progress when im stuck in the gutter ahahha.
  2. @clarkspeed Thanks Clark! Reciprocating weight was definitely my interest on this engine. Since I was considering this for a track motor, I really had no interest in using the V07 crank unless I had some confidence that I could reduce the reciprocating assembly weight by a large margin. Of course I am assuming the weak-point are the rods at high RPM. I mean, I have not seen a stock forged L24 or L28 crank "break" yet (w/ stock internals), but that doesn't mean it cant/wont happen. Zero experience on the V07. I am just running under the impression that the forged crank is as solidly over-built as any other Nissan crank from that time. Some data: - Conventional stroker build utilizing OEM components (weights from various forum posts): L24 rod: 711g KA24E piston: 375g (no wrist pin) - The Kameari parts I have: His Drag I-beam rods: 490g Forged racing pistons: 290g (no wrist pin) 4.5mm longer rod for increased rod ratio According to Kame, she will rev to 8k no problem but I still don't think the head will flow enough air to make use of it. I'm just guessing I will be shifting somewhere around 7k, but we'll see what she does on the Dyno. The head is with Mike Yoes at the moment. I think we talked about a .54 lift, 295deg @.05 duration. Most importantly, he is doing his magic on the porting and chamber work. That is not something I trusted the race shop with, since it is hyper specific to the L-series (where and what to remove). He also has my Jenvey manifolds to port-match. Header will be my Stahl unit with the 1-5/8 primaries. We will see how she runs! I'm not trying to get every ounce of HP out of it. In fact, the head will only be 11.5:1 for 100 octane. The goal was to have something that would last, and be reliable. I'm fine with having to replace rings, bearings, but the plan is to avoid a catastrophic failure that can otherwise be avoided. I will be surprised if she puts out 300hp, but who knows.
  3. yeah thankfully not much work left to do on the crank itself. It was off by 5 though (straightness), but they were able to straighten it. Apparently that’s quite common with the V07 cranks. They seem to be quite confident about what bearing material they want to use so I’m going to just let them go after it. Most of their business is race engines so I trust them. I’m not planning on knife edging or doing any mods to the crank itself. I just don’t have enough experience with that and the shop didn’t recommend it unless I was aware of another motor with enough track hours as a comparison. This will be an 11.5:1 CR racing engine so I’m being a little conservative. The pistons and rods will have a significant weight reduction though. I doubt the head will flow enough to make it worthwhile, but the short block should be capable of 8k rpm with the rod and piston selection I have. They will balance the whole rotating assembly, and will likely add some small reliefs to the crank where necessary for balance. i should have it all ready in Q1 23’, so I will likely run the 2.4L EP motor before this guy has a chance to go in.
  4. Me too! 😂😂 you have seen those vids of me on IG pulling the Z in and out of the garage to sand body filler haha. Amazing how light the chassis alone is, especially when you have the rear suspension in as a “wheel barrow”
  5. We’ll never mind on the bearings haha. Looks like my shop is going to source custom thickness bearings based on the Dims of the rods, crank, and block journals 🤷🏽‍♂️ learn something every day!
  6. Good luck! And just to be specific, those 2” spacers placed in the bottom of the rear tube are for the 1437RACE model of the Koni’s specifically. Just wanted to be clear. You do not need them in the front.
  7. Nah the spacer is there to give you the strut travel you need. it lowers the hub to a level where you have sufficient droop. If the strut travel is too short, you will lose contact patch with the pavement on your inside tire when taking tight turns. Without the spacer, your control arms will be completely horizontal, with zero droop. Basically, when you lift the car you will wonder “huh… why doesn’t the suspension drop”. But yes, with the spacer in there you just need the tube to terminate with enough length to get that gland nut in. Make sure you estimate it well so you get several engaged threads before it makes contact, and not so little that the nut bottoms out before making contact with the insert. I made a silicone gasket on top of my insert to cushion when tightening the gland nut on, but that’s optional. Where your lower spring perch goes is entirely dependent on your length of spring. Mine are 10”, but if yours are different you will need to figure out your own perch height.
  8. The rear strut tubes require a 2” spacer to be placed inside the tube. Then the finished height of the tube is however tall it needs to be for the cartridge to slide in and the hand nut to secure the Insert. First time around I didn’t realize I needed a spacer, so I had to go back and add material. The fronts don’t need the spacer, so it’s just however long they need to be for the hand nut to work. i believe the distance from the cast portion of the strut (bottom of the tube) to the bottom of the spring landing was 7” in the rear, and 5” in the front.
  9. Hello friends! I will start with the question first: What are you using for main and rod bearings for your L-series race engines? Should I just source OEM Nissan bearings? Kameari sells bearings too. Now for some show-and-tell. My rods came in, so I wanted to share with you the parts going into the 3.1L race motor. Sourced from Kameari direct from Mori-San. Rods are 137.5mm, or 4.5mm longer than the usual L24 rods used. Will yield a higher rod-ratio than sourcing OEM rod length and piston deck being. They are 490g, which are lighter than anyone else’s published (pre-engineered) rods I could find. Racing pistons are forged w/ 3.2cc valve pocket volume. Deck height matches with rod length for a near flush deck. 88.5mm also going to try out the infamous chain sprocket to replace the tensioner. N42 is with Yoes doing his magic. 11.5:1 so I can get fuel from my local 100 octane pump.
  10. That's exiting man! She's starting to look like a car!
  11. @clarkspeed cool! Which direction? I’m landing at 6am Saturday in Orlando and renting a car. My guess is 8am at Daytona. Come on down! If you are on the way to/from I’d be happy to stop by!
  12. Alright folks, I went ahead and purchased the OEM exedy clutch. I really evaluated what I needed this for, and realized I was tying myself in knots. This clutch is for me to get the car around town while I tune the suspension and motor, so clearly I was over thinking it. I have the 5.5” for competitive racing, and should keep that in mind. I looked into the ACT HD and XD Pressure plates and they were twice the price of the whole OEM kit including disk etc. I will likely purchase the HD PP for the 3.1L which will be a good compromise until I consider a 7.25” unit for that motor. Not much as far as updates. Been two months of travel, COVID, and work so looking forward to getting back in gear. Finishing the rear lower valence filler work at the moment. Still have the drivers side lower quarter, both doors, and both fenders left. Then can finally spray and start reassembly. I was planning to be in Daytona for Greg’s HRS race this Friday but had an important client request that day. Taking the red-eye to spend the weekend with him for the 24hr historics instead.
  13. 100% agree on the dual or heavy duty PP being more than enough for any NA L-series. I'm surprised to hear you like the sprung disk. Maybe I could give it a try and see how it goes. It just always felt "squishy" to me when I was shifting quickly, especially at lower speeds. It was really evident when the car had a change in momentum as well, for instance going from downshifting to getting back on the throttle. Maybe the heavy spring rate and suspension had more to do with it, and the sprung clutch was just adding to an already "squishy" chassis/suspension.
  14. Thanks guys! I had the same experience Jon. I’m glad it wasn’t just me. I had a 6-puck on the 300ft-Lb L28et, and it started losing grip from all the material removed on the flywheel. Not from the actual pucks themselves wearing. You are the first person who I ran across that had the same experience. Clearly the hardness of the flywheel’s friction surface was inappropriate for the aggressive disk material. I also switched to what the clutch shop called a “double” PP, and an unsprung “street” disk material.
  15. hey thanks Clark! Il have to look into that for the next motor. I’m assuming the 7.25 comes with it’s own dedicated crank mounting surface (not really a “flywheel” I suppose)? Any ideas on what I should run with the 9lb OEM diameter flywheel? I was just going to default to an Exedy OEM clutch unless someone had a suggestion. This is for the interim period before the car is competitive. Ideally I’d get an unsprung disk, but I don’t really need anymore torque capacity than what OEM offered. Saving the 5.5 for the meantime.
  16. Yep! Greg basically told me not to slip the clutch if I could help it. With that said, don't drop it at high rpm either. Like you said Jon, short engagements at low RPM just to get it rolling. When you think about it, there really isn't a means for the clutch to wear if you are rev-matching and out of first gear. Its slipping just enough to absorb the drivetrain shock between gear changes, and no more. 4.75"! That is wild!! Heck if you can get by push-starting it, you don't even need the auto-trans ring gear either! Ok, unrelated (you said rev like a super bike) but I am super excited to get my Kameari rods for the 3.1L (not EP)! They are stuck in customs up in Alaska, but I already have the forged pistons in-hand. They were the lightest set of pistons/rods with the largest rod ratio of any manufacturer I could find, short of commissioning something completely custom. This engine is two years in the making.
  17. It is a 5.5" with two disks. True story, I told Greg Ira I planned to run the 9lb flywheel and asked for his advice on a clutch. He laughed at me, and said "you are kidding, right?" and shipped me his identical spec (he just added +qty 1 to his order). I want to say it was around $1200. I could ask him the details, but I think he was pretty protective (at the time) about disclosing too much. As he said to me "you know how long it took me to settle on this setup?". On-track he said it would last two seasons as long as you are rev-matching and baby-it in first gear.
  18. My V07 crank was off by 5 thou. Had it straightened for $200 by a "magician" (best way to describe it). Based on your selection of rods (rod ratio), it does not strike me that you will be using this motor for racing so you might be OK. Does not sound like you will be spending much time at higher RPM's. But honestly, I am happy to pay the $500 in labor for my local experienced machine shop to be doing the work you are attempting. Just peace-of-mind. They have much more knowledge, experience, and the proper tools that go well-beyond what the "how to rebuild" and "how to modify" books can provide (and I have read both several times). This is coming from a mechanical engineer, too. I certainly respect you doing it by yourself! -Aydin
  19. Hi all! It has been a while. I was in Europe for two weeks, than had COVID which knocked me out for another two weeks. Finally getting back to the car. For competition, I have a button flywheel/clutch combo from quartermaster sitting on my shelf. They wear pretty quick if you are doing any street driving or stop/go. I'm looking for a clutch I can use for off-competition tuning and getting it to and from places. Will also use it for track days until I get the suspension tuned. I have a Kameari 9lb flywheel in the OEM formfactor I plan to use. I was going to just default to an inexpensive OEM spec Exedy clutch, but was curious if ya'll had any recommendations. I steer-clear of all the BS clutches that are marketed at "stages". In the past I would order custom clutches with un-sprung disks and dual diaphragm pressure plates (my L28et), but the shop has since gone out of business. The L24 as built today wont put out more than 160-170ft-lbs, so not much need for grip.
  20. I have seen many, many 280zx parts cars on FB over the past two months. You could take a photo of the spot you wish to replace and ask if someone is willing to cut that portion out and sell it to you. I would post in an FB Z group as a “parts wanted”. Otherwise, if it’s a small enough area without a unique contour, I’d just make it out of mild steel sheet and use body filler to contour.
  21. +1 on how you will drive the car as described above. For road racing, the torque a 3L put out will be OK on the diff. That is for SUSTAINED (low impulse, no shock) torque on a light vehicle, where rev-matching between gears is standard process. A lightweight flywheel/clutch will already require you to baby the launch, as those clutches wear out fast. If you are launching with sticky tires and dropping clutches drag-race style, no... It will likely fail during a launch one day. Even an R200 may get dicey launching on grippy tires. Impulse breaks driveline components well before sustained steady-state stress. I learned this the hard-way by destroying a handful of R200's before I realized my driving style was the biggest culprit. Also, the CLSD having wearable parts will obviously require maintenance as a weak point, but I am not familiar which of the two center-sections (CLSD vs. helical) has more shock resistance. I have a 17' STI helical LSD in my car. It is inoperable 🤣
  22. I think the listing disappeared Just going to whine for a brief moment. Having returned to FB for the first time in many years, the Datsun/Z enthusiast groups on there are…. Disappointing…(except for the racing specific groups) Reading the responses to folks asking for help. Man, you really got to sort through some terrible responses/advice before you find anything pointing in the right direction (if at all).
  23. Silly question Clark. I have a 180deg thermostat in my Setrab oil cooler/filter sandwich plate. Is that enough to avoid blocking the cooler on a cool day?
  24. ZCD is out of stock, but I think I see a few for $175 on eBay. Pretty expensive for a piece of machined brass but when you are the only one and volume is low…. Kameari sells a worm drive gear as well, but the details are sparse. Il shoot Mori an e-mail about it when my rods are nearer to completion.
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