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Everything posted by AydinZ71

  1. Thanks! Just shot him an e-mail. Did you get the forged race piston, forged street pistons, or cast pistons form them?
  2. Cool!! I sent them a message Friday since I can’t read their product sheets (all in Japanese). RHD Japan lists 89mm as the closest to my spec but I need 88.5mm in their racing forged units. In particular, I like the pin height for that model. We’ll see if they get back! how did you coordinate with them directly? Just filled-out their international order form and waited to hear back?
  3. Looking good Clark! Suspension is not my specialty so I can’t don’t have much to add, but mechanically it looks solid!
  4. Dude, it looks great! Common… don’t be so hard on yourself. The rest of us are janky amateur fabricators at best haha. Here is a pic of my chassis-side exhaust hanger near my trans mount. Typical MIG half-ass job. To be fair, I don’t have a lift 😂
  5. In my experience, I have never had the pump fail to spin/push coolant (if the pulley spins) but the bearing DOES wear-out, seize, or leak. Have you seen a case where the pulley spins but the impeller does not? Just curious for my own edification. I'm sure anything is possible under the sun.
  6. I live in LA too. The heat this week has been brutal anywhere 10-miles from the coast. I'm really surprised you are having cooling issues with all that hardware! Have you considered the 280-Z style hood vents? You could try the fan you mentioned, but just remember it will be reallllly difficult to get decent flow on a 12v small diameter fan. Any amount will help, but it may fall-short of expectations. Thats why everything 12v is super-sized (like the starter, alternator). Just isn't enough electrical potential. I also use quik-latches for my FRP hood.
  7. oh yeah, I totally used to do that too... In my case, I literally drove with no fan for years (I was young/dumb) and just left the hood on the catch while in traffic. As soon as the car starts moving, the needle drops. One of the few benefits of our reverse-opening hoods.
  8. Finding used high-end racing parts for sale is much less common than OEM parts. Most of the racing folks just give them to other friends, since the sales volume is so low. I'm starting to believe only 20-30 people actually road-race S30's in the US. Moroso also makes one.
  9. Hi all, so everyone is struggling with CP… super long lead, poor responsiveness. I get it… they are busy. RHD sells Kameari forged racing pistons and rods. I’m really impressed by the specs of their components. Is anyone running thier forged pistons and lightweight rods? their drag 1 rods are less than 500g! Pauter could only garantee me $510g (not bad), but they are more expensive and made-to-order. Race pistons come in at 210g. most importantly, they use a longer rod length. Almost 5mm longer than OEM, and the pin height in those race pistons is also smaller to accommodate. would love to hear your thoughts!
  10. Yes and no. Yes you can fabricate a way to allow added engine ventilation through the OEM cowl vents. I did it for my race car (see below link). Keep in mind, there is a lot of debate on whether hot air will escape this way, or high-pressure air at your windshield will be pushed into the engine bay. Either way, its doing something to help cooling. just cutting into the firewall without welding a dedicated duct that has been sealed with seam welds (for structural and sealing purposes both), is not recommended. 1) First, you are undermining the job of your firewall, which is to keep an engine fire from cascading into the interior of the car. You have a large open vent from your cowl into your cab at your heater/AC blower ducting. 2) the engine fumes and hot air from the engine bay will work their way into your car because of the same reasons as #1 above. 3) the firewall/cowl interface acts as a structural "cell" within your larger unibody. Unless you are just cutting a small 3" hole or something similar, a large rectangular cur will undermine the structural stiffness of your firewall at this location. Coolant is your friend. Air is much less effective at cooling an engine unless it has been engineered to do so (ask Porsche). If you are worried about engine overheating, it can be easily addressed through improvements and overhauling your cooling system. Flush your engine cooling system to get rid of any rust and scale creating restrictions. Consider a larger radiator. Consider either a clutched engine fan, or a dedicated large electric fan. A shroud between the radiator and the engine fan will improve cooling considerably. In general, the Z cooling system is over-sized (design) if everything is working correctly. It is not a car that habitually overheats without something being wrong. If everything is working right, just adding an aftermarket shroud between your radiator and the clutched engine fan will improve cooling at idle by a noticeable amount.
  11. First time spraying base-clear urethane. Made lots of mistakes and have a lot of runs, but live and learn! To be fair, painting an engine bay with added stiffeners and sharp angles is tough, even for the experienced. Sprayed epoxy. Sprayed silver urethane base coat 8 hours later, followed by clear. Masked off the urethane and scuffed the overlap yo give it some “tooth” for the asphalt (3M) undercoating. All still within the epoxy cute window so it should harden rock solid. Working on prep work in the interior but it’s hot as heck out here! Stay cool my friends. IMG_8831.MOV
  12. It does help, thank you! No experience with flares. I'm going out on a limb and assuming the wider flares in my picture are for the back?
  13. Looking good! Are you trying to keep the connectors OEM? I hate those connectors, but then again I dislike connectors in general 😅😂 also, consider wrapping all your wires sitting on your frame rail in the engine compartment into a large diameter loom. It will help keep the oil and grease from getting all in there. Amazon sells them for pennies
  14. Gosh, I wish someone made the 36-1 wheel for an ATI damper. I had to have my machine shop make one, since I don’t have a lathe and a means to balance it.
  15. Shakotan Marugen fares are in. Anyone know which ones go in the front? Two are wider than the others. Are there only two distinct molds (front/back) or is there a left/right?
  16. Here is a tip On battery cables. Look into 1-gauge welding cable. It is the most flexible cable you can get in that size, and is one-size larger than you need for the amperage. Can be used for cable to-from starter as well. Same stuff in the “painless” kit available on Summit.
  17. Updates: - sanding the previously-applied epoxy primer in the engine bay. Tried using a small sanding block and quickly realized this need to be done with fingers alone. Ahhh the joys of paint & body. I burned-through in a few spots so il do some spot application when I spray the interior as well. - the passenger door skin is only 20-gauge sheet with a folded lap joint on the outside edge. The rear of the door was off the body-line by about 3/8” so I used a single adjustable bump stop to make the correction. I could have worked the metal to make the adjustment but I like the idea of applying constant force outward on the door. Will help with vibration and keep the door flush over-time if the steel exhibits some warping. -color. I’m going with Malibu sunset in the top and silver on the sides. Silver interior with flat black where the drivers eyes meet the windshield and rear hatch.
  18. That is a 280zx, also known as an S130. It was produced from 79’-83’ lots if information online for this car so feel free to search that model.
  19. You read my mind. I have 1/4" wide #8 alluminum spacers in different lengths precisely to offset the windshield from the sill and make it as flush to the bodyline as possible. The stainless bezels do a great job of creating a nearly flat transition on the ends of the windshield as well. What I REALLY want to find is 2-component outdoor urethane rubber to fill the gap between the polycarbonate and the sill. 3M makes a single component moisture-cure product but nothing beats the durability and strength of a 2X urethane. They must not sell it to the general public because I keep coming up deuces. I KNOW they make it, since its used in manufacturing. The floppy urethane bumpers sold by MSA are made from vacuum mold injected 2X urethane. PS: you always FK up your first one... Its super hard without a template for sure. its very difficult to estimate the length with the curvature since the geometry is kind-of complicated and you have to take-into account the offset from the sill.
  20. Polycarb windshield has been cut, mounted, and removed ahead of bodywork/paint. Came-up 1/2” short on the ends (these are hard to do!) so I made some fabricated stainless flanges on each end which serve as a cover for the gap, and also distribute force from the mounting bolts. This should also help a bit with the “bubble” effect from single point forces on the plastic, when viewing from an angle. also had the doors media blasted. Uncovered a poor door-handle delete job which only had a handful of tack welds holding it in place. Fixed it, but also had some wicked metal deformation to deal with. Used my MIG setup to heat-shrink the bowing spots and hammer-dolied the rest to a reasonable curvature. Converted the passenger door skin’s failing Dsuz fittings to all quick-latch. spent hours trying to align and get them all yo click without any pre-load or binding. Was happy with the results! Back to bodywork. PS: the video shows me removing it with the quik-latches. cut the length so it can post. IMG_8753.MOVIMG_8738.MOV
  21. ME here as well Not licensed (didn’t want to be), started as a project engineer and worked as a PM for years. Now an engineering consultant. A lot of my work on oil/gas/hydrogen was transferable to cars from material science to thermo/process. I geek-out on details. What part of CA are you in? yeah I need a TIG for sure. I’m almost done welding on the race car though, so I kinda just want to get it done and start fresh on the next one.
  22. For a small job, it works just use whatever scratch you have. If you have Time and interest, buy a small sheet of 30-series, 50-series, and 60-series and just play with them. You will be shocked at how differently they all behave. The last two numbers (“T6”) is the heat treating. Ideally you want that number lower if you plan to bend/manipulate it unless you feel like annealing it yourself. when I first started fabricating, I kinda ignored all these details and just sent-it. Over time, realized understanding the material better saved a heck of a lot of time. Just shootin-the-**** here, but if you ever want to do a ground-up project play around with everything. Price really isn’t a factor but n the quantities we are talking about. I bought one 12X48” sheet of 20-gauge stainless for like $30 and still have not used it all. Made several small brackets, battery hold-down, etc. and saved time by not needing to coat any of it. Stainless is underrated in fabrication IMHO. If you use thin enough stock and are willing to manipulate & weld it, often not much heavier than AL for the same job. You are way ahead of me on welding though. Your exhaust work looked great! I have yet to load a cord of stainless wire in the mig and give it a go on my own stainless exhaust. I don’t have a TIG, or experience with TIG yet.
  23. Brackets look good what’s the AL alloy? 6061 machines a ton easier with less deburing, but it won’t bend easily without annealing. I use snips on AL precisely because my cut-off wheel makes a mess of the lower alloys. 0.08” 5052 will bend at that thickness, snips will still cut it, but it’s rigid enough not to warp the hell out from the snip. Give it a shot next time
  24. Looks good if anything looks to be less than 1/8” gap, I’d put on a little patch of 1/16” thk self-adhesive silicone. Better to have things rub on rubber than metal ask me how I know 😂 PS: don’t use silicone on any material that oxydizes. It attracts moisture in a way other synthetic rubbers like EPDM or urethane do not. It behaved almost like a rust catalyst on some parts of this car from the PO’s use, even on nuts a bolts.
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