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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on August 3

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About AydinZ71

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  1. I have separate master cylinders for front and rear. I’m thinking… could I add an e-brake that just just pressurized the rear fluid? Man that would be convenient.
  2. Woohoo! Wish I was ready to put switches in. Did you get these from summit? Did they come with the breakers or did you wire separately?
  3. I hear ya! Same… I got the steering column refinished and the Tilton pedal assembly in so I can weld the firewall, stiffen the mounting surface, and get the clearances right. I purchased most of the EDIS parts for the “megajolt” ignition. ATI dampener and trigger wheel are at the machine shop now getting balanced. Everyone is busy as hell so trying to get a head start. Got the cam oiler on order from Greg’s dude. Going to take a big step and get all my electronic/analog gauges on order. I don’t have the funds for AIM (but I sure wish I did!). Plan is to run the
  4. Appreciate it friend! Need to take some days off work so I can finish the structural work. I will look into the innovate data logger. I have been spending like a drunk sailer, and the Stahl header I have on order will be almost another grand. Man… race cars are expensive!
  5. Thanks Clark! That is all very helpful MegaJolt (the EDIS timing module) suggested a TPS for “big cams”. They described the erratic vacuum off-throttle from a big cam as the reason. My 320 duration will probably be an issue with a MAP because of reversion at lower rpm’s. The timing advance I’m looking for is to maximize the off-throttle response when shifting. Otherwise everything will be optimized for WOT. I really need to get an O2 logger. Il look into one. 12:7 is something I will target and see how she wanders!
  6. UPDATE: - Firewall metal work is complete for pedal assembly - Steering column drop-mount is complete and tested. Engine Ignition: I have decided to go with the open-source EDIS-6 crank-fire ignition system from Ford. My ATI pulley/damper is with the machine shop getting the trigger wheel mounted and balanced. Will buy the MegaJolt EDIS ignition module which will allow me to set advance etc. with a TPS, and map the ignition across all RPM's. QUESTION: Anyone know of a good resource or book for learning more about fuel and ignition tuning principles?
  7. A pic and a vid for reference IMG_6632.MP4
  8. I also have the Tilton pedal assembly. I just finished by firewall area so I will share some pictures. This is definitely a custom install so if you are anxious about metal work, welding, cutting, etc. you might want to steer clear. The BIG plus is the dual brake master cylinders (one for front and one for rear) which will allow you to MECHANICALLY adjust the amount of travel going to each cylinder (the assembly comes with a see-saw proportioning lever). This is a repeatable means of changing and fixing your front/rear brake bias which will not "wander" like the hydraulic proportio
  9. ^this I do the same. Use high-heat setting and do very very quick taps. Low heat settings will have poor fusion and leave holes when you grind flush. As always, be very cautious adding too much heat at once. If you get more than a 1/8” blob glowing red, you are adding too much heat. The metal 2” away should be hot to the touch but not enough to burn you. Go sloooooow….. this is an exercise in patience.
  10. @JMortensen @tube80z Man the tilted fuel cell is brilliant! Maybe on the next build… I gotta get mine on the road. I can’t run a fuel cooler in EP but maybe Clark can in GTU?
  11. 10-4. Maybe I need to shove something in the opposite direction down the shaft to release the spring load. Il figure it out Just not familiar with the assembly. Il look for a cross section or something.
  12. Ok so I made a boo boo. My steering column got some grit in it and makes a light pepper-grinder sound when I turn the wheel. Like an idiot, I pulled the retaining clip on the steering-wheel side of the column. So apparently there is a spring in there that immediately shoved the shaft into the column and now I can’t get the retaining clip back on. Crap. Anyone know how I can pull the shaft out to get the retaining clip back on?
  13. @clarkspeed Hey thanks A bunch Clark! Means a lot. Yep… diffusers are illegal in EP I had the whole rear end torn apart so I figured why not add attachment tabs in case I ever try a diffuser in a non SCCA sanctioned event. At a minimum, it is much more ridged and “catches” less air at speed as a result. For the reinforcement, I cut a 5/8” steel tube (1/16” wall) down the centerline to create two semi-circle cross sections. I figured the full tube itself was overkill. Along the length of the skirt (Kinda hard to make-out in the photo) I bent a 1” wide strip on 18-gauge s
  14. speaking of diffuser, I reinforced the rear skirt and added welded tabs with nuts ready to go, for a diffuser to be attached. Curious what you and Clark may do differently. Here are a few pics
  15. @clarkspeed when I spoke to John at Ztrix (I have his frp hatch), he mentioned how complicated the resin process is and how he has perfected a super lightweight means of preparing an s30 hood. Something special about the resin if I recall. I’m going to be ordering a hood soon and il ask him more about it in detail. I believe he sells a super-light version as well for more $$. He mentioned the hood doesn’t really benefit from carbon fiber since it’s not a true structural part. I tend to agree. It’s all about rigidity (stiffness) vs resisting stress (yield strength) like a structural piece would
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