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AydinZ71 last won the day on May 11

AydinZ71 had the most liked content!

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  1. Yeah on stainless, that might be the ticket. That's what I would do, especially dealing with that curvature that tends to kink your jig or tear at the work surface. I would drill a 1/2" hole, trace the larger hole (3/4" bung?) then use a die grinder to make it bigger. it is much easier on a drill press but you already had everything assembled.
  2. Hey at least you only need one O2 bung 😂 My silly-ass needs two, one for each SU carb. All this fancy tech to make a 50-year non-competition carburetor into a contender. Great attention to detail.
  3. Makes sense! I enjoy learning about the decision making process. That’s where the fun is for me. I’m running a Tilton firewall-mounted assembly. Just as you said, I had to add-back rigidity since I had to remove most of the OEM firewall section for both rust repair (at the cowl) and to create a blank for the new penetrations. Everything is mocked and boxed waiting for the finish. the 16ga 1.5” tube resisting tension from the roll cage also continues through to the front drivers-side strut tower. PS: I have had several folks talk-shit on my sheet metal welds. I don't what they are talking about. I dont think they look all that bad for a MIG. I think most folks are used to continuous welds on thicker metal so they assume any kind of blobs is just poor technique vs. balancing enough heat for penetration but preventing burn-through.
  4. Very nice! Love the false floor plate. Novice question: why did you choose the bottom-mounted MC’s vs a firewall mount or otherwise? Just curious. Pretty neat where you hid the resevoires. You clearly have a sheet-metal brake 😂
  5. Thanks @clarkspeed! I went ahead and bought the Koenig Rewinds. $480 including insane CA sales tax and shipping from Summit. I really can't believe decent wheels have gotten this cheap! So far everyone I have interacted with is happy with them. This buys me some time (a few years) to save-up for and keep looking for a lightweight wheel. I will look-into the Goodwin Mazda wheels! Yeah Greg raves about the Volks, and even said he would be interested in buying another set if I could find them in our size. They apparently had an anniversary edition (15X7) that we just missed a few years ago. He also told me about the Jongbloed, otherwise I would have never run across them. That is pretty damn light for a 15X10! If you are going to add weight to a hub, the best place it can be is as close to the center of rotation as possible since the moment of inertia has an mass times r^2 relationship. This is why a lightweight tire is so critical. Hence, the few pounds added for a spacer isn't great, but its also not equal to the same weight added to the whole wheel. I am pontificating and you already know all this...
  6. Hello friends!! Koenig Rewind wheels. What's the story? Why are they so cheap, and do they hold-up? Reviews online seem to be favorable but have not seen any on a race car yet. Listed at 13.4lbs So I am striking out on the racing wheels... genuine panasports: US distributor out of stock Ultralites: no longer available in 15X7 Ray's Volk: No longer available in 15X7. ones on ebay are all from FWD cars since they have massive offsets. Rota: heard they are not a good option for a race car Jongbloed: left a VM... we will see if they call back Turns out the diamond racing steelies the car came with were actually 14X7. Must have been drunk when I measured them, no idea how that happened. I just sold them for $200.
  7. I didn’t bother with the spot welds. I just removed the lap joints in their entirety and did full-seam butt-welds throughout. Once the epoxy primer was on, I had no need for seam sealer since I no longer had any exposed lap joints. The downside is you need to have good practice with butt welds, need to be more careful with managing heat, it’s not OEM (not that anyone will notice). I have done it both ways now, and prefer the butt-welds. Once the epoxy primer is on, you can easily spot gaps and holes in your weld work, and top-dress with a single-component epoxy seam sealer
  8. @clarkspeed thanks Clark! Yeah I really don’t have any first hand experience so you and the communities tips will be much appreciated once the suspension is back on. Update: hatch mock-up and fastening is done! Used a single 1/4” quick latch in the OEM position. I sat there thinking about the geometry for a while until it dawned on me… I can just turn it upside-down and hit all the clearance and misalignment issues. The pin is now on the FRP hatch and the release button is upside-down. Accessible from right above the license plate holder. Works like a charm. i made a big 4” flange/washer out of 20-gauge 304SS to resist the downward force and prevent the fiberglass from cracking. It’s hidden in the hatch cavity. I’m happy with it. Going to tear this all down now and continue with bodywork. 245 slicks should be here next week so I can check fitment and noodle a flare. if it’s “close”, I might just modify the OEM fenders with some sheet metal. If I need more than 1” of augmentation, I might just buy a pair of flares. IMG_8495.MOV
  9. Oh 100% Jon. I’m a bit concerned about modifying the mounting hole position on the crossmember since we have this whole “stock attachment points” requirement in the GCR. I’m sure there is some wiggle room but it’s hard to test the waters without first-hand experience. We are specifically allowed to add-back adjustability in the suspension, but how the suspension attaches to the unibody needs to be OEM. For example, they gave a thumbs-down to weld-in camber plates.
  10. Cool! sounds good, il go with welding 2X 1" ones and see where I land on my RC. I suppose once you get away from the OEM strut geometry, all bets are off. Are you still planning on a single control arm or considering double wishbone?
  11. I paid $150 to have a shop heat and bend my 6061 AL sway bar arms. I paid it gladly knowing the risk if they overstressed and cracked the metal. Best way I validate a machine shop is ask a few shops how long they think it will take. Try to find an avg. (like 4 hrs.) and see what that comes out to in $$/hr. Here is socal, $100/hr is not crazy especially if they have specialty experience (like racing engines). Obviously if they have to buy parts or use consumables, that is extra. Large jobs (8+hrs) like a full block rebuild (20hrs at my shop)sometimes come with a discount or they throw-in free work like clocking the head to the block.
  12. thanks John @jhm! Ahhh I never thought about the broad utility of the spacers. I was just anxious about adding the rotational mass, but I do have a set that came with the car. on the double adjusters, I fabricated them in a way such that at max thread engagement, it was already +1/2” track on both sides (totaling 1” hub-to-hub). This allowed me to use the S130 adjustable steering tie rod which is longer leaving max thread engagement on a starting basis. In hindsight I would have been more careful with my measurements and given a little more adjustability in the negative direction but se la vie. At least they are ready for even wider track (at least in the front, rear is limited) for non-EP events. while on the topic of suspension, I need some pretty hefty RC adjusters (2-3”) based on Greg’s specs but obviously no one makes them that big. Should I just stack 2-3 and have someone TIG them together?
  13. Ahh, yeah I should probably mentioned I also have wider track thanks to adjustable LCA’s etc. the rules allow for it and it does provide an improvement to handling. I haven’t purchased the flares yet and I’m gonna wait till I have the tire mounted. If it’s close, I might just make them out of sheet metal. It’s a race car afterall. Thanks for the heads up @calZ!
  14. Appreciate it @clarkspeed. I like the format here where folks can respond with their own volition based on interest, but I am entering a phase in the project where I might need to reach out directly. Greg has been a huge help as well, but his (well deserved) at-home-bodywork days are behind him so there are always questions being the novice I am. Between you, John, Jon, and the rest this has been a great resource for almost two years now. on to the updates: I finally tackled the FRP hatch. If you are familiar, there are little steel stand-offs on the OEM hatch which mates with the hinge assembly near the roof of the car. I cut those tabs off my old rusty/damaged hatch and used them to correct the mating angle onto the hatch reinforcement channel. I test fit the hatch onto the car and drilled two 1/8” pilot holes through the fiberglass channel into the steel tab from OEM hood. After some finagling and repositioning the hinges, I was satisfied with the through holes. Mocked the whole thing up with through bolts and was ecstatic that the hatch went on with symmetrical gaps and nothing protruding too badly. I was anxious about the fiberglass being stressed and cracking, so I decided to put flanges on both sides of the channel to distribute the pressure. To maintain geometry, I used some spare 20-gauge stainless on the hinge side. On the opposite end of the channel, I used a small strip of 1/8” 6061AL. I chose these materials because they are light, quite resistant to inelastic deformation but still elastic enough to “hug” the fiberglass surface. Bolts are 1/4” X 2” SAE. Now on-to the single latch. IMG_8486.MOV IMG_8467.MOV
  15. @jhm thanks John!! I found a pair for a reasonable price on the eBay site you shared and got them on order. Many thanks!! Now to noodle a flare option and get it all mounted before I finish bodywork dunno what I’d do without this community. Thanks all
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