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AydinZ71 last won the day on June 29 2022

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  1. Sorry for hijacking your post Clark! Looking forward to your next update. @tube80z ah yes! This brings back memories of a previous discussion. I recall you mentioning you got a Z down to ~1800lbs, and one way you did so was through clever selection of wheels and tires. @Dat73z thanks for the tip! The strut tube itself was really easy to weld-to. Il have to practice on some spare material from the cast lower section of the strut. Sounds like it’s much harder material.
  2. Ah! hey, that's helpful Cary! Silly question, why the 13" wheels?
  3. @clarkspeed Yep, today all I have is stock calipers and cross-drilled stock rotors (from PO). The S130 rotors are still pretty small, but its just a night-and-day difference going from a solid rotor to the vented so its well worth it. Stock spec. S130 diameter vented rotors and OEM S130 calipers are allowed on the spec. line. Oddly, Greg worked-up a solution within the rules to use an AL rear caliper, but still no idea what rotor he used or what model/spec caliper. Did you see his times posted from the Majors? He absolutely clobbered the completion! I mean, my jaw dropped. Il have to bug him more on how he did his brakes. Maybe ask him for some pictures if he still has the #2 (now #12) car handy. Its usually at his buddies place in Jacksonville.
  4. Cool pistons! What rods will you be running?
  5. Sweet man! Nice score! Count the notches on the trigger wheel. If it’s 36, with one tooth missing, it will be for a ford EDIS module. That’s what I have mounted on the L24 with the megajolt (thanks to a suggestion from this forum). So I don’t actually know of a caliper adapter for an S30 to S130 brakes. Greg said he “brazed” his on. Maybe silicone bronze? I was literally going to put the rotor on, caliper on (with some clamping force applied) then weld a bracket to the existing caliper mount. If he brazed, I’m thinking the cast strut material is forged and hardened as you said, and hence difficult or unadvisable to weld to? Il have to develop a solution. Let me know if you have any ideas whatcha got planned for the block?
  6. Ugh… I’m not looking forward to it. I need to adapt my caliper mounts for the s130 vented rotors and calipers. Do you think the steel here is forged/hardened? What rotors/calipers do you plan to run? Is that flange intended to feed the “hat” cavity of the rotor and have the air fan out the rotor vents? good luck Clark! Great to get in some Christmas work! Merry Christmas and happy new year.
  7. My head is at Yoes. I don’t recommend if you have a timetable (he is busy) and you may need to repeat your specs and follow-up. Also, not cheap. My head work is coming to around $3K and most of that is labor for porting and chamber work. This is for a street application? Just keep in mind that this kind of intense head work doesn’t usually make sense unless you are living mostly in the high-rpm’s with a long duration/lift cam and at least upgraded rods so you can rev high with piece of mind. Not trying to dissuade you. It’s just a lot of money for something that won’t drive so we’ll on the street. You are using a V07 crank as well ya? The rods are going to experience even more acceleration for a given RPM to travel the extra 4mm. You may want to consider the whole engine and what your limiting factor is. For example, no need to upgrade your valve spring retainers (to rev high) if you don’t plan to utilize lighter rods and pistons as well. You will risk throwing a rod.
  8. Looking good Clark! Man, it’s got to be tough fabricating suspension mounting points since they are all so interdependent. Good luck!
  9. They come with little foot-mounting tabs with a pivot point to adjust the angle. I have a general idea of it going somewhere in the rad intake. That whole area is custom so it shouldn’t be difficult to a fabricate a mount for it.
  10. I can give some insight on both topics. I first had my doors (already just the shell, lightened by PO as a race car) media blasted. They definitely warped. I had to do some metal shrinking to get it back to a similar shape. It’s subtle. You can’t see it, but you will scratch your head why it doesn’t quite go ont he same way it did when you pulled it off. Our sheet metal is around 20-gauge for a 240z. Not sure if it’s the same for 260z+, but that’s really thin. After calling many places, I found the ONE guy who seems to still be doing dipping here in the LA area for individual customers (not some big large volume contract). He is this hardcore looking dude covered in tattoos and an old school east LA widows peak. his little shop is in Van Nuys. Most of the dippers have moved out of state or gone out of business because of local OSHA and AQMD regulations. My fenders cost $150 each, and small items (like a valve cover) costed $45. Not cheap. try looking into “vapor blasting”. I believe the water keeps the surface cool while the media still removes the finish. Found a guy in Lancaster who would do a whole car for $850 if you delivered it to him. my fenders now have a layer of epoxy sealer on them. The wheel well side is finished with a single stage two component black urethane I sprayed, and the outside is waiting for me to scuff the epoxy and get a skim layer of filler.
  11. While I’m at it, here are some progress picks. After months of searching for the “perfect” lightweight headlights, I landed on these motorcycle PIAA projectors. They weren’t cheap, but the reviews were great. Planning to mount them somewhere in the rad intake area. Not sure about too many night races but it’s warm enough out here to track the car in winter, so lights help with the early sundown. Finished the body work on the rear valence and drivers rear quarter panel. Sealed and primed. Moving on to the rockers and doors, before finishing at the fenders. machine shop has started on the 3.1L block with the Kameari internals. This shop is expensive but their main business is race engines. Happy to pay for the experience, since I don’t have an intuition on what is critical and what is not. IMG_9874.MOV
  12. @JMortensen Second everything you said Jon @mutantZ Was in the same boat as you about six months ago. Since I had taken the car down to bare-metal and performed all the welding work, I was ready for refinishing. I quickly realized even a $10k budget was insufficient to get the entire car refinished, inside and out. I joined an auto body and paint forum, and started researching a ton. I got the recommended guns for primer and paint, got my stash of materials together and hit it hard. I painted the whole interior in 1-2 months in stages, so I could get-in and do a decent job. I have been in external body-work hell since then, sealing panels, spreading filler, sanding, etc. Don't be afraid of filler. If you are doing the metal work yourself, you will be in control of how much filler you ultimately need. Use a straight edge, and make sure none of your low spots are any deeper than 1/4" (much less preferred). No body on an avg. 50-year old car will be straight, and the only option you have is a combo of metal and filler work. Getting a body straight is mind-numbingly time consuming, and there are no shortcuts. Just a handful of blocks, sandpaper, and filler. If you change your mind and decide to get some of the body work done yourself, let me know. Happy to share my experiences and learnings. I am just north of Glendale. You can come see my tools and work, and see if you want to do something similar. Since I don't have a booth, I am considering finding a talented local painter to do the final base/clear on the exterior but have not found someone yet. I should be done with bodywork in about 1-2 months, and it will still likely be too cold/humid to get a decent finish with urethane without a ton of cut/buff. If you find someone you trust, please do let me know!
  13. Hi all! Question for the group: Anyone have resources/pictures/ideas on modifying the OEM oil pan? My budget is currently going towards the things I don’t have the tools or skill to perform (engine internals, machining, etc.) but I think I can manage welding up an extension on the oil pan and considering some baffles. Already need to weld-on a bung for the oil temp sensor, so I thought why not have it a go. The “racing” oil pans seem to be in the $600-$800+ range, and I have no problem welding sheet metal. Does not seem sufficient enough weight savings to spend that much on an AL unit. I already have a 3qt accusump, so I’m more concerned with addressing G’s than adding much capacity.
  14. Indeed I have seen the vids of Rob ripping on it in the streets near his shop. Curious how Mountune may be involved just because it’s a little closer to home (they are in socal like me).
  15. Hey Derek. Have you heard of Mountune here in Southern California? Their principal Ken Anderson said he was working with Zcargarage up in San Jose on one of your heads. Just curious about who you are collaborating with. Keep up the great work!
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