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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on January 6

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About AydinZ71

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  1. Makes sense. Can’t run anything but solid rotors at stock dimensions in this class so why not use a throw-way rotor. the ducting In the photos by Katman are certainly within my technical ability, so il play around with so sketches and see what y’all think. im definitely going to try cutting out some of the drum dust cover, as someone did further up on the post. My plan is to duct air to the lowest reasonable point, and leave the highest holes meshed open to exhaust the heat. Il have to read carefully on where I can pick-up the air stream from in the rear of the car. Pretty sure I can’t pull from below the floor pan. At this point, I’m just geeking-out. I really won’t understand the cause-effect of my mods until I start testing the car and breaking/warping stuff. i appreciate all the feedback from you learned folks!
  2. Hey someone responded!!! Thanks! Great point on the CR! My plan was to max-out the head this time around for pump gas, Then drop in domed pistons when I eventually rebuilt the bottom end. With the valve overlap, it will likely settle around 10:1 with the stock bottom end on this head rebuild. This is my first race car, so I still have a very steep learning curve. I don’t have any direct experience with E85 or race fuel, for example. it sounds like you have some experience, and at a minimum have read the EP spec line! I am definitely all-ears if you have anymore advice or tips for me! So far, it’s just the technical folks at SCCA I have been in contact with. -Aydin
  3. Ready for the outer rocker skin. I guess they call it a “slip on”. It’s only 20-gauge.
  4. Hi all! I have been searching the forum and having trouble finding what I am looking for. Maybe I just don't have the right keywords. I am looking for an evaluation on individual engine components and how they effect/affected by racing applications, based on first-hand experience. For example: 1) What components are most likely to fail under high RPM's (7-8k), and in what likely order? 2) What components pose an issue on durability/longevity in a racing application? A quick update on my SCCA class EP car, specifically on the engine. Would love to get some of your feedback! The head is at Steves Machine Stop in Azusa, CA. They are working on it this week and should have it back by the end of the month. Here is what they are doing: 1) Ovate Beehive valve spring upgrade. Checked with SCCA to ensure legality. 2) head and SU carb manifold port match up to 1" into ports on either side. Limited by class rules to SU's and depth 3) valve seats being ported and unshrouded. Chamber polished and deburred to limit detonation risk. 4) stock N42 head as a core. exhaust valves being turned down to 33mm to meet class rules. 5) Cam lift set to .495. Class limited to .500. Duration and offset still being tinkered for a 3000-6000rpm optimal torque range. 6) head deck milled to increase CR. CR yet to be determined. will need to be optimized for cam specs and 91 octane. 7) Viton valve seals. These should last a bit longer than the stock rubber ones. The bottom-end was rebuild about 20k miles ago, but is otherwise stock. Read Frank Honsowetz book (how to mod OHC...) cover-to-cover. My take from his book is the stock bottom end should be OK for an NA racing application if additional measures have been taken to keep heat down (already have oil cooler) and is properly tuned. Going to give it a try and see. As long as I don't have a catastrophic failure like a lost rod, i can always rebuild the bottom end with Franks recommended changes when I rebuild. Distributor already has an AM electronic pick-up, but still using the diff head to distribute spark. Back to the topic of RPM's, I have no idea how my head mods will effect my prospective redline. I'm inclined to keep it at 7k, unless I can gather more research on what components may be limiting. Thanks again for reading!
  5. I ended up going with your system because you explicitly discuss and address high-torque applications. That's the big selling point. Since T3 makes no such claims, we have to assume their customers are the only ones that really know what it can handle. Looking forward to seeing your work when its done! No rush, my car is still in Michigan until March.
  6. I have been thinking about this... my theory is they must not have much experience with high torque systems. The design/parts look like they would work for near stock torque, but I agree they do not look sufficient for 300+ lbs (maybe less, I don't own their parts). I think the key is, you have actually thought through how the torque reaction is applied to the unibody (which is in and of itself not capable of high torque on its own). It seems their parts focus on being bolt-on, with the same attachment points as you mentioned. Of course, having an engineering background does make some of us harsh critics. Doesn't take an engineer though. Breaking enough stuff gives one an intuition on where the weak-points in a design are.
  7. Ah! Gotcha. I made my own with parts from a hardware store, but in general it was the same description as the tool you are taking about. I believe the metric nut that screws onto the spindle end was M12X1.25. I stripped the spindle threads trying to pull it, so I had to weld the all thread directly to the spindle. Bought a new spindle from zcardepot. let me know if you need a full description. Mine did work flawlessly for one of the two sides before the spindle threads were stripped.
  8. It is satisfying, I agree. The tough part is when you “peel back the onion” and realize you have months of work before she will be back on the road 😂. That might just be me though. The thing with rust is when you go looking for it, you usually find much more than you thought you had. Kinda like roaches 🤷🏽‍♂️
  9. you can also try soaking it for several days in Phosphoric acid. It literally dissolves corrosion and is quite aggressive. Rust mort is a common brand. I too sheared my spindle threads. In the end, I had to use heat, pull with a welded-on nut, and hammer the other side. Every few hammers, I could feel the tension on the opposite side loosening up, so I knew it was moving microns. Did this for an hour, and finally got it out. Just an FYI, putting it back is also a PITA. I had spin the new spindle in some fine grit sand paper to get it in. I used a bore cleaner on the strut assembly, but after many minutes it still had not removed enough material for a “snug” fit. I opted for synthetic grease to reassemble. I figured the grease was least likely to disappear over time and keep the two metal surfaces from corroding again. Of course, they will... I guess il remove the spindle every few years and give them another greasing. IMG_4816.MOV
  10. Hey thanks for the reply! I didn’t think anyone was interested 😂. I will look into what you did! smart to add the weight as low as you can. Moving the CG down by even half an inch will be noticeable when you corner hard. This is a race car so any additional rigidity without increasing weight is a win. You can use really thin metal (20 gauge) when under shear stress, so you don’t have to add a ton of weight if you are strategic about how you add it. Most of the rigidity I am adding is in the service of replacing rust, so the added time isn’t too bad when there isn’t much salvageable metal to start with. also, my full race cage is holding the whole body together while I geeked out on the rocker. Without the cage or carefully choosing how you suspend the weight of the car, you could twist the frame and have a permanent body warp. I have seen some people temporarily weld bracing while rebuilding frame rails. here are some more pics and vids of my progress this weekend. I have only been welding for four months so it ain’t the prettiest thing. FullSizeRender.mov FullSizeRender.mov IMG_5235.MOV IMG_5233.MOV IMG_5225.MP4
  11. I completely agree.’I had to learn both of those lessons over lots of trial and error. I just did my floor pans with more success. I still have more to grind off than I’d like, but the two metals had dissimilar thicknesses so I felt more comfortable removing material with a flap wheel than trying to minimize the extra wire. I have only been welding for 4 months. IMG_5233.MOV
  12. looking great! I had similar difficulties with heat and burn through. Mine was rusted out more than yours, so there is always something to be grateful for! Here is minE: IMG_4558.MOV
  13. I second this. The doors add some rigidity Between the hinge and latch when closed, but nowhere near enough to cause the surrounding metal to yield or experience plastic deformation if the door is removed.
  14. Hi all! I thought some of you might like to see the the reinforcement I’m working on to rebuild my rusted out rocker. I have the “slip on” rocker cover for asthetics, but the inside will be home made. I have prepared a vertical rib (14 gauge) which will go down the centerline of the rocker and serve as the surface for jacking the car, and where both the floor pan and slip-on rocker will weld to. Between the inner axial rib and inner rocker, I have welded in additional ribbing to resist shear (20 gauge). I will add additional 20 gauge ribbing between the axial rib and the outer rocker. Just an engineer geeking out. I’m sure there is a lighter, more efficient design but I’m having fun. IMG_5198.MOV
  15. Lots of junk out there. They made a whole store called “harbor freight” that’s full of it. They do serve a place in the market though. Maybe not for you or I, but someone is happy. If the products (fill-in the blank) produces turn out to be junk, junk may just be “good enough” or they will eventually lose enough customers to go out of business. I suppose what I’m saying is, I don’t blame the business. That’s how free enterprise works. Quality has a way of proving itself in the markets regardless of whatever claims the seller may make. This is of course only my opinion so no offense intended to anyone.
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