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AydinZ71 last won the day on February 22

AydinZ71 had the most liked content!

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About AydinZ71

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    Los Angeles, CA

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  1. I’m sure bonding will be OK there aren’t many forces on this top panel anyhow. It’s a ledge for the tail light bezels. done forget the seam sealer. As you can see from your assembly, there are lot of steel lap joints for water to work it’s way in. One drive in the rain can start the rust all over again :(
  2. Taking the cowl “box” apart, replacing rust, and eliminating most of the structure, and replacing some sections with steel tube. IMG_5906.MOV
  3. @rossman looks like we got the same replacement panel. Galvanized steel? I had to “work” min to fit as well. I didn’t use panel bond. I drilled 1/4” holes every 4-6” in a zig-zag and plug welded the top plate to the bottom support. I then ground the plugs flush.
  4. When it comes to welding equipment, you definitely get what you pay for. The only anomaly seems to be HF. I know several people who own their mid-range welders and are happy with them. I don’t TIG yet as I’m only doing sheet steel and structural welds at the moment (MIG for now). I have a Lincoln Electric unit now and much happier than the cheapo unit I used to have.
  5. I like the box idea! Yeah this fuel cell is as low as it should go. About 2” below the rear valence. Only thing lower is the exhaust. I have a large aluminum cover now with butterfly self ejecting fasteners. I’d like to put down a seal to keep some of the fumes out after refueling. Appreciate the encouragement!
  6. Fuel cell is back in. Fuel lines are complete through the transmission tunnel. Now I can finish the brake lines and get the rear suspension back on. IMG_5899.MOV
  7. Just an FYI: With those power numbers you will be struggling with traction. Not intended to dissuade you, but you will likely be spinning around in first and second gear, when torque hits. An LSD, wide rear tires and a sticky tire Compound will be absolute necessities. Just remember, these cars are light and most of the weight is biased towards the front of the car. In the end, you will likely be running less power until you dial-in your traction, or run a boost controller that progressively increases pressure as you up shift. I have not done this last technique mys
  8. Super excited to follow, and learn a few things! Good luck 👍🏽
  9. hey there. I have an L28et in my 71’. Never saw any dedicated mounting brackets. The turbo is held in place in 2 ways: from the exhaust manifold 4-bolt mounting flange, and the downpipe which is connected to the exhaust system which is mounted to insulators on the underbody. Not sure if more support is sufficient, but you would need to be very careful if you do add it. Needs to be supported by the block, not the chassis. The block vibrates quite a bit relative to the chassis so mounting to the chassis is not ideal. You could add more Isolation mounts from your intake to the compresso
  10. It may have been to ensure there’s as a pressure-bias towards the turbo, since as you said the filter provides back pressure. Without consistent flow, the oil will cook in the turbo bearing (especially non water-cooled oil bearings) within seconds of boosting, so momentary oil starvation to the turbo is even more sensitive than the broader engine (which operates at lower temperatures). This “cooked” oil will foul the bearing and reduce the lubricating and cooling effectiveness of oiling over time. It may also be nothing more than convenience. The turbo oil feed comes from the mai
  11. You know we have all been there when you get three similar responses to a problem within a few hours 😂 when I was young and dumb(er), I once lowered my car onto a breaker bar to loosen the tranny fill hole. I don’t have a dedicated full hole on my r180 cover (from a Subaru STI) so I drain completely then fill with a specific volume from the axle shaft hole. The spec is easy to find with a quick search online, or from any type of service manual.
  12. It might still Be a while for me 😕 Give these two other options a shot!
  13. It is common for the steel plugs to get stuck in the aluminum diff housings. Also common on the transmission. Borrow or buy an impact wrench. Electric if you don’t have an air compressor. That’s your best bet. You can warm up the housing with a torch but you might burn the diff oil inside which will stink pretty bad. Be careful not to burn the gasket from the inside-out. AL expands roughly twice as much per degree as steel, so this should work. Torque spec is 25lbs when retightening so don’t get carried away.
  14. @rossman nice work! I completely rebuilt my rear hatch slam panel as well. Had to build the underside support, since you have now noticed it is several sheets of thin metal spot welded with lap joints. Pain right!?
  15. Agree 100% with @JMortensen Just imagine selling 20-100 units of something a year (if you are lucky), and pocketing only dozens or hundreds of dollars per order. If you do the math, you realize its very difficult to quit your day job. For the most part, I think we (the community) need these handful of vendors more than the potential profit could support. For example, where are you going to find a 12mm stud for a diff cover with 1.75 pitch on one side, and 1.25 pitch on the other. You could spend an hour or more searching online to find out Zcardepot is just selling a subaru P
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