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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on June 20

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About AydinZ71

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  1. If you are still looking for a cheap solution: Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/AI289AzAkhb
  2. Sounds good! Just a word of advice, being in the process of restoring and upgrading a race car myself. Keep your car as a daily driver, and buy a separate 240z as a race car that may not be titled, have missing parts, no interior, etc. You will be tearing the car apart and spend months performing structural improvements, seat mounts, etc. Best to do this on as cheap and incomplete a chassis as possible. Almost nothing on the suspension will be left untouched, so anything on the car today that is "upgraded" or in good shape will likely be replaced with something that is adjustable a
  3. Rule of thumb is 10:1 for an L-series on pump gas. You can try 10.6 but its a risk. I see you are in the UK, and all my experience is from US 91 octane. If your fuel out there is higher equivalent octane or uses more than 10% ethanol, you should do your own research for equivalency. Detonation is not an all-day thing when you are borderline. It will show up on hot days, high load, with ignition timing advance, etc. If this is a daily driver, I would go dish pistons for a near 9:1. As a matter of fact, I would not change the cam either. You could look for a factory "C" grind.
  4. Well... you hit the jackpot my friend. Good for you. The engine is the least of your worries. If she is really free of most rust, you cant ask for more. Not a fan of the styling, but you can change all of that. You have a series 1 RHD. Can't ask for much more than that state-side. Only thing I would want more is a JDM 432R. Spend some time thinking about what you want out of her and we are here to help. Just FYI, check out Bring a Trailer for pricing on restored series 1 cars. If you want to make some serious cash or as an investment, original restoration would be the way to go. N
  5. The Z32 LSD is known as a "Short nose". It will require a whole lot of fabrication to make it work, including a custom driveshaft, mounts, and structural stiffening of the subframe. Probably not worth the trouble if you are looking for a quick, cheap solution. The 280Z diff w/mustache bar looks right
  6. Do you weld? If so, yes. You can cut a chunk out and not only re-drill the correct hole pattern, but also compensate for any offset necessary (moving R200 forward-aft). However, I don’t recall if there is an elevation change in the mounting of the R180/200. Playing it safe would be to get the right mustache bar but if you are a skilled fabricator everything is possible! Just remember to think in 3 dimensions.
  7. Yup I had that happen to me. I swapped the pinion flange from an R180. Pull-off the flange before you junk the broken unit just in case. Impact wrench and a light-duty gear puller Will do the trick.
  8. Yep that’s a 3.545. You can swap in another r180, got nothing to lose! The only time I destroyed my spider gears in my R200 is from “rocking” between on-and-off throttle too quickly. The driveline inertia cause the crunch, not the torque. Question: don’t you struggle with traction issues? I was sliding all over the place with 300ft-lbs of torque.
  9. @jvandyke 1) you already have the curved tranverse link mount. Check. No need to change that. 2) yes, the mustache bar is the bar that mounts to the rear cover of your diff. R200 has wider mounting stud spacing. The right bar comes from a 280z. 3) in your last picture, your front transverse link mount/crossmember has been removed. You need to eventually put it back but remove the actual diff mount attached to it (the rubber/steel brick with the stud molded into it). You will be using the top-mount from the RT kit. 4) double-check the forums if you
  10. +1 on the taller gear ratio and “RT mount” The oem mount will tear apart within a year with the amount of torque you have, so go with the top-mount and ditch the OEM bottom-mount. You are going to struggle with traction with that much torque. A taller geared diff will help by reducing the mechanical leverage of torque to the rear wheels, and give you lower rpm’s at highway speeds. 3.545’s are more prevalent than 3.9’s anyways, so you should be able to snag one for cheaper. just as a sample for cost, I sold my 3.545 r200 w/ shafts for $350 4 months ago, and my 28
  11. Is that panel leading or just freshly ground steel? Looking good . fresh.
  12. Yeah the OEM R180 can not handle the V8 torque if you can get the traction. Look into an R200 with an LSD center section. ~$300 for the carrier core, and $1000 for the LSD insert. you could just plop in an R200 open diff (99% of the R200 “long nose” diffs are open), but without an LSD you will have one wheel spin prematurely. to swap an r200LN into a 240z, you will need the following parts from a 280z. NOT 280zx, only the diff from a 280zx will work: driveshaft, halfshafts (axle shafts), mustache bar, and the rear lower control arm crossmember (if the 240z one you have is n
  13. Looks to me like the retaining pin for the spider gears sheared off? I think I stated earlier, the spider gears are the week point if it fails under torque. Good luck friend!
  14. @clarkspeed Thanks for the incredibly comprehensive response Clark!! 1) 100%. Have GC coilovers at each corner w/ GC bolt-in camber plates (to maintain EP spec). Will adjust ride height after the exhaust is in. 2 & 3) You have given me a lot to think about here. Car came with 3/4"" spacers, so I'll have to measure and possible buy more or taller spacers once I have the ride height set. Greg runs 3 1" spacers stacked, and has one machined to make-up for the effect on camber/angle of the LCA mounting surface. 4) 10-4! I am allowed 2" extra track total (1
  15. Very much recommend the main power disconnect switch, if you are adding a lot of new electrical components to your Z. I determined after a year of use that my alarm (reluctantly installed after my 2nd break-in in college) had developed a worsening drain over time. The switch will allow you to park your Z in your garage for several weeks without worrying about your battery, and the annoying process of disconnecting your battery terminal between use. It will also help you diagnose current drain easily, my measuring voltage across the terminals w/ switch on/off at any time.
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