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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on June 29

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  1. I have seen many, many 280zx parts cars on FB over the past two months. You could take a photo of the spot you wish to replace and ask if someone is willing to cut that portion out and sell it to you. I would post in an FB Z group as a “parts wanted”. Otherwise, if it’s a small enough area without a unique contour, I’d just make it out of mild steel sheet and use body filler to contour.
  2. +1 on how you will drive the car as described above. For road racing, the torque a 3L put out will be OK on the diff. That is for SUSTAINED (low impulse, no shock) torque on a light vehicle, where rev-matching between gears is standard process. A lightweight flywheel/clutch will already require you to baby the launch, as those clutches wear out fast. If you are launching with sticky tires and dropping clutches drag-race style, no... It will likely fail during a launch one day. Even an R200 may get dicey launching on grippy tires. Impulse breaks driveline components well before sustained steady-state stress. I learned this the hard-way by destroying a handful of R200's before I realized my driving style was the biggest culprit. Also, the CLSD having wearable parts will obviously require maintenance as a weak point, but I am not familiar which of the two center-sections (CLSD vs. helical) has more shock resistance. I have a 17' STI helical LSD in my car. It is inoperable 🤣
  3. I think the listing disappeared Just going to whine for a brief moment. Having returned to FB for the first time in many years, the Datsun/Z enthusiast groups on there are…. Disappointing…(except for the racing specific groups) Reading the responses to folks asking for help. Man, you really got to sort through some terrible responses/advice before you find anything pointing in the right direction (if at all).
  4. Silly question Clark. I have a 180deg thermostat in my Setrab oil cooler/filter sandwich plate. Is that enough to avoid blocking the cooler on a cool day?
  5. ZCD is out of stock, but I think I see a few for $175 on eBay. Pretty expensive for a piece of machined brass but when you are the only one and volume is low…. Kameari sells a worm drive gear as well, but the details are sparse. Il shoot Mori an e-mail about it when my rods are nearer to completion.
  6. And where can this magic bronze gear be found, if I can hazard to ask? 😅😂 haha
  7. @clarkspeed all good Clark! I think you shared a photo way-back-when, at least I remember seeing it. The idea is to feed the center of the hat/hub just like you said. Some dynamic pressure from the headlights helping get the air to the hub, and the centrifugal force from the spinning rotor/vanes do the rest, woohoo. Il fabricate something out of sheet metal once I get the car rolling. Gotten pretty good at fabricating small, light custom stuff out of sheet metal. I think il try some of the 20-gauge stainless I have on hand. Nozzle will be a 3” sectioned tube.
  8. @tube80z Makes a lot of sense to utilize all sorts of functions if you have a PDM. I looked into the AIM units a while back but I still need to learn to drive, let alone data analysis/utilization haha. Saving grace is all my gauge sensors are electronic (even the 2” gps speedo) so I can use the data in the future beyond just the autometer gauges. Good idea to remote-mount the oil pressure sensors. Not sure I can do the same with the oil temp sensor since I’d prefer to nab the reading straight from the oil pan. @clarkspeed ahh so you also did the pressure switch triggering a light! Glad I’m not way off base. I have a local indicator gauge on the accusump too, but the whole unit is remote mounted in the engine bay. sorry about digressing from your post Ben!
  9. Thanks Cary! Indeed, pretty limited in EP. I kinda like it though, keeps me from going off-the-rails with too many crazy ideas until I can get some actual track experience (whenever that will be). Il keep going I decided to give the Skillard air dam and splitter combo a try. Speaking with them, I may be the first person trying it out on a (hopefully) competitive car. I have some aero changes in mind, but the biggest seller for me was the splitter already ends where my EP rules require it to. I think I could have fabricated something similar, but I’m really trying to stop the immediate inclination to fabricate everything. My read of the GRC makes it acceptable, as it does not depart from the overall “envelope” of the car. Hood remains the furthest-forward body panel. It’s also lower than the conventional fiberglass/urethane units so I may not need a front-end scraper like Greg had.
  10. Haha! Can you imagine a flying Z? Better be a G-nose. I wasn't worried about lift-off, but rather a loss of down-force on the front wheels or increase in Cd. Honestly since my credential at this point is limited to "fabricator", I still want to build a competitive car just to satiate my over-achieving (more like obsessive) nature. It sounds like I have much bigger worries than some air getting into the wheel well. I got the 130mph figure watching Greg's races. The highest I saw on his digital dash PIP was 136, and that was at Road America's straight. He was running a read-deal EP motor though, @260hp & 2150 lbs including driver.
  11. Thanks Jon! I actually have quite a bit of different styles of weather-stripping I can try. I bought a bunch off mcmaster to try them out on the rear hatch area and fender flares. Otherwise, the sheet metal ring around the OD of the velo stack is a definite solution! Why I brought this up: I noticed the new Le Mans rules require a huge hole in the fender to allow pressure to be relieved in the wheel well. Apparently they feel the massive pressure imbalance between the wheel-well and the air traveling overhead was a contributing factor in seeing those cars "fly" ( you have probably seen the famous vid of the Mercedes flipping backwards on the straight). That's my first indication that air flow (or lack of) through the fender cavity is a consideration. Aero stuff is not always intuitive, so I thought I would learn from you actual racers! Doubt the EP car will get much over 130mph, so I may be over-thinking as usual.
  12. Well folks, two years-in and I’m still a fraud as a race car driver but apparently I can add bodywork to the list, haha. rear passenger quarter panel bodywork is done and sealed (epoxy). Working my way around the car, but also started back up on the fenders. Need to get them ready for sealer as the surface rust just marches-along. As much as I love the closed headlight covers, it won’t meet EP so I got started on fitment/clearances on the OEM steel bezels. Decided to just weld the bezels in, and remove any unnecessary steel in the process. Still using that thin-wall SS tubing where I can for it’s rigidity and light weight. Got the velocity stack mounted on the drivers side. I put quite a bit of pressure on it, and doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. I cut a narrow ring of 3” 16-gauge tube, split the ring, welded on a standard worm drive hose clamp, and used the thin SS tube as a cantilevered mount. Question for you real race car drivers: what are your thoughts on sealing the space between the velo stack and the headlight bezel? Is there a particular aero reason you would want to limit the amount of air leaking into your fender? I’ll be honest, I can’t tell if allowing a leak path for the high-pressure air here is a good or bad thing. @JMortensen @jhm. @tube80z @clarkspeed
  13. Oh snap! Yeah that totally makes sense. When Ben first told me about it, I thought something came loose and jammed the gear which would naturally cause the sprocket or worm gear to shear. High oil back pressure would certainly stress the gear. Always something to learn here
  14. I felt a bit guilty for this (I shared with Ben): his unfortunate accident gave me an idea for a secondary oil pressure sensor. Instead of a broad spectrum sensor, I’m thinking a more reliable (simpler) pressure switch set to something like 4-10psi (for idle). The switch would connect to a micro (super bright) LED I sourced but also cut-out my ignition system via a relay. I could “arm” the system with a switch, but a more complicated timer delay is also possible (so I can start the car). I’d rather have the engine die than run at 0 pressure! The pressure gauge seems more like a troubleshooting instrument than a means to immediately address a serious problem.
  15. Thanks for sharing Clark! let me ask you, do you feel cooling is better with the hat and rotor in a 2-piece configuration like that? I assumed having your ducting feeding right into the vanes without a gap would force more flow through the vanes, but I'm just guessing. I could section the 280zx rotor on a lathe, but from what I am reading they are intended to be "disposable" after one or two races? I'm going with the 3" velo stack in the headlight recess, like all the other EP cars (sigh). I was trying to get fancy, but we cant cover the headlight bezel so might as well use the 7" hole for something. I asked Greg about the knockback, and he didn't seem to have much trouble with his setup.
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