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AydinZ71

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AydinZ71 last won the day on August 3 2021

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About AydinZ71

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  1. Here is a tip on bending sheet metal: use a torch to warm it up (does not need to change color) and use a solid surface with a piece of structural steel on top to keep uniform pressure. Then just tap it with a hammer and she will bend i find the Datsun steel welds poorly. Combination of the cold gavlvonize coating they used, the impurities in the steel itself, and certainly the rust hidden between lap joints. IMG_7586.MOV
  2. Updates: 1) tow-eye mount complete. 2) hood bump-stops installed on rad-side of strut towers. These can be replaced with quik-latch if the hood vibrates at speed. 3) pass-through holes in rad support for oil cooler lines. finishing touches before I can primer the front-end
  3. I hear ya I have been doing so much rust repair over the past year and a half that I feel more comfortable fabricating from scratch now than re-fitting OEM steel. Sounds silly I suppose. I did enjoy it after getting good at it, so I can’t say it makes complete sense.
  4. I agree. Some fasteners need a specific torque spec for performance (like the control arms or head bolts), but for most applications the standard torque spec for the diameter and grade of bolt is fine.
  5. Looks good I fabricate replacement steel freehand as well
  6. Indeed! Thanks for the comment! I am curious to see how Much of this fiberglass is going to rattle at speed. started in the tow-eye today. Decided to go with just one, and might as well use the air-dam mount to save weight. Need to reinforce it a bit with a gusset or two and I’m done. Hope it fits under the fiberglass bumper in the future.
  7. Yeah I don't think the fiberglass one moves all that much, you are right about that. Still, I much experience driving 100+ mph in an S30. I calculate a completely flat surface would have 36lbs/square foot of force on it at 120mph. Kind of an extreme example, but if I push that hard on the fiberglass unit, it does definitely "plunge" without something fastening the leading edge.
  8. You know, I could be completely wrong on the venturi effect. Its just my opinion, but I don't have any data to support this. I have experienced this in mechanical lab, but never put any sensors etc. on a car. You said it, diffuser . I think the effect may be more complicated than I am giving it credit for. It actually is REDUCING the velocity by expanding the surface area with a consistent flowrate. If the velocity drops down to linear flow vs. turbulent flow, maybe that is the ticket? Anyhooo, I gladly concede
  9. yep yep. That’s exactly what this is for fiberglass probably does a bit better on rigidity than ABS or Urethane (my street Z has a urethane one). I am allowed to fit a splitter from the leading-edge back to the front-most opening of the wheel well (so basically the whole width of the air-dam).That will keep the air-dam “nose” from “flattening”, but I needed this piece to apply pressure to the nose so all the force doesn’t land on the fenders/nose-cones. Also keeps the leading edge from “plowing” downward as you described.
  10. @madkaw oh I see! So the opening to the radiator is the only place air is going past the front fascia. Understood. Now I get what you are doing. You will be reducing the total size of the front-end orifice. If you do want to optimize for drag, you can still make the front-end opening narrower than the surface area of the radiator. It looks like the way you have it now has the orifice size matching the rad surface area which isn’t bad, you just don’t need it that big if you are trying to reduce drag. @calZ yes, going from a smaller opening expanding to a slightly larger surface area f
  11. Just a tip from the Z-cars that race competitively: you want to block air from going anywhere other than the rad, oil cooler, fresh-air ducts (if you are still using them), and either an engine-air intake or allow cool air to blow through to the engine bay on the drivers side. From a weight management perspective, this means forcing the cladding you are proposing to the extremes. As in, take the concept of creating a front-facing shroud as you proposed but block ALL air from moving over (between the hood and the rad support), under (between lower rad support and your air dam/valance
  12. Added a support for the leading edge of the air dam, and a single fastener to keep the dam to resist torsion. Used the thin wall SS tube again so kept it pretty light
  13. Gosh, I never had any of these cooling issues. I wonder what is different… I have had either a clutched fan or a single 14” electric fan at some point on the L24 or the L28et, and in either case my temps in traffic never got much hotter than 200. Specifically, no shroud at all. Must be something fundamentally different about our driving styles. PS: the trans. cooler that comes integrated w/ the Mishimoto radiator is a sealed closed loop according to the manufacturer. I see you have caps on the nozzles, but I wouldn’t worry about coolant leaking out. I understand if you ju
  14. hmmm, is it OV/P100 or just P100? The P100 filters alone look like little saucers and are insufficient for organic volatiles. If it looks like a “canister”, 1.5” thick or so, then it’s the right filter. There is a little fold-out that comes with the canister describing the precise chemicals it protects against. if you can “smell” VOC’s, the respirator is not working. the regular p100 particulate filter is used for particulates (grinding) and vaporized metals from welding. I regularly switch between two masks, with the two different filter elements I need.
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