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AydinZ71 last won the day on March 11

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  1. @clarkspeed yeah I was told From a few sources to try welding cable. I believe it is 1awg? I just remember running the calcs and estimating the FLA draw of the starter motor (not the solenoid, I think that’s only 20-30A) and it checked-out. We’ll see! On the bright side, it’s not like you engage the starter for very long so it’s unlikely to overheat if it’s only 1-2 sizes small.
  2. @clarkspeed indeed! Plan is to have plastic on all four sides. Using a thicker gage for the floor, possibly even a cheap HF plastic tarp. Plastic is pretty cheap and I intend to toss it when I am done. Reconsidering building the tent in my driveway again. Mostly because it would be easier and (as you mentioned) easy access to ambient light. I was worried the 10' standard easy-up width wouldn't be enough, but then remembered I could just flare-out the plastic on each side. HF sells a cheap one that's 10'X20'. I thought about the explosion risk as well, but I ran the calcs. Even at a conservative 4% lower explosive limit, the 2500cfm fan I bought makes it rather implausible that an explosive mixture would be likely. Especially with an HVLP gun. I am going to add one small box fan w/filter as a "pusher", but the main fan will be used as a fume extractor. I have 50X25" of make-up-air filtration which should be enough to keep-up. We will see! If I'm on the news, we know something went wrong.
  3. Very cool! Thanks for sharing. Yeah i figured race car and all...might as well save a pound or more just sizing the wires appropriately. I will start looking for those while searching amazon. Appreciate it!
  4. Funny! Look at my recent Amazon purchases 😂 like minds I suppose. Brian from Paint Society recommended it for the water-based wipe-down before solvent wipe down (urethane primer prep, NO solvent on polycarb). I have a feeling there is some solvent out there that won’t cloud the plastic but not worth the risk unless the water based doesn’t cut it. Any water based cleaner is usually some form of evaporating surfactant. A type of alchohol usually, since it’s soluble in water. Man… I spent way too much researching this damn paint job.
  5. @manninen never heard of them. The TE37’s in my spec are 10.9lbs. I will stick with the Volks, but thanks.
  6. @clarkspeedhaha, yes definitely Polycarb. The Bosch blade says plexiglass, but it appears to work great on any kind of hard plastic. Does not gunk up or catch, and cuts pretty smooth. Yeah I did the trace too, but it appears I cut too much on my first pass. You warned me about leaving extra on, but its really difficult (as you know of course) to get the "bow" going around the sill when test fitting. The SCCA thickness spec. which matches a 1/4" equivalent thickness is naturally hard to bend. The 1/8" thick hatch class was much, much easier and I got a near perfect fit. Updates: I found a NLA set of TE37's at a reasonable price! $2250 including shipping from Japan. It has taken me three years searching ebay to find a pair. It is the lightest commercially available wheel for the 15"X7" spec. in the OEM bolt circle. Picked up another used 5hp 120v compressor for $60. Gearing up to paint the car, and needed more CFM to keep the gun moving. Also gathering the fans/filters/plastic to make the booth. All I have left is to block sand the high-build primer and its time to finally paint the SOB.
  7. Appreciate it Clark! Hey, do you mind taking a photo of that crimper/stripper you like? Since the brand is worn-off, I can at least look for one in the same "style" Since this is the first time I'm doing wiring beyond the amateur twist and tape, the materials themselves and where to get them is a little lost on me. I already started my wire sizing chart, and will likely make a crude sketch of the point-to-point. Where did you get your 3-wire shielded? Any specific spec's I should look for? How about the shrink tube label maker, and the shrink tubes themselves? Sorry, so many questions.
  8. ouch!! Yeah I had always been told to stay away from centerforce. Hmm… wonder if this thing would be of value to anyone. Yeah I have never run a multi-disk, so the various layers through me off. One of the last remaining “surprises” from the PO. I do still have the quartermaster button flywheel/clutch ready and waiting for me. I probably won’t put it in until I have worked out all the bugs and had a few test/tune days at the track. Almost everything is brand new and needs adjusting on the car, so one less variable of inconvenience. In the meantime, I have a 9lb Kameari flywheel and OEM Exedy disk/PP I can throw on. That should be a reasonable solution until the car is a smidge more competitive. Thanks Jon!
  9. OK. Need to clean and organize the garage so I can build a spray booth with plastic sheeting. Pulled the 4spd from the L24 that was in her when I purchased her. Got some fun bits under the bell housing. Anyone recognize this clutch? Appears to be a muiltiple-disk centerforce. No idea why you would need this with an L24 but can’t complain. The flywheel also appears to be non-stock. Tried scratching it with a piece of 6061, no dice. I’m guessing it’s steel, but it’s spotless. Seems rather thick for a lightweight unit 🤷🏽‍♂️
  10. Thanks man! I wish! Both the windshield and the hatch glass, I traced and cut until it worked-out. The windshield is a bit butchered. I had to fabricate hold-down flanges for either end so the screws didn’t cause too much visual distortion on the “glass”. Top and bottom screws didn’t have enough pressure to cause divets, but the passenger/drivers sides did. I did learn a few things: use a quality plexiglass - specific Bosch blade. The actual jigsaw didn’t appear to matter, but the blade was crucial. Measure a billion times and cut a tiny amount at a time. I over-cut the front, but by the time I got to the hatch I got the hang of it. You can use a block and 80-grit to make minor adjustments on the ends. I used this expensive purple painters tape from 3M (I’ll look it up if you need it) which made it easy to mask the curves for the black anti-glare mask. Used a caliper to mark w/ a sharpie a set distance from the edge, then connected the dots with the masking tape. I used single stage 2-component urethane for the mask. I was nervous that any other paint could fail under UV. Base/clear probably works but I was nervous that the base would be exposed through the glass and would miss-out in the UV protection afforded by the clear 🤷🏽‍♂️ Probably overly conservative. many thanks to Clark and the HZ family for the pointers they gave a year ago.
  11. @Ben280 yeah I had not heard of it until I did a bunch of online research. If it’s good enough for a military aircraft, it’s gotta be good for a race car! @clarkspeed This time around, I had time to read your full list. Do you mind sharing the make/model of some of your tools? Stripper, crimper, etc? There are soooo many options it’s a bit overwhelming.
  12. Wow look at that! Nice wiring job! what kind of wire did you buy? I bought some tezfel Mil-spec wire to try out. The insulation appears to be lighter and it withstands higher temps for the engine bay. Looking great Clark. What fuel do you plan to run? Leaded?
  13. Thanks guys! Yeah, all that skim coating and block sanding… gawd damn, must have been hundreds of hours now. “Take it down to bare metal!” They said hahahah appreciate all your support got the cowl cover epoxied, primed, and underside is black. I was going to paint the top side flat black in the style of my friends A-10 (Indiana air national guard), but Greg told me “it will look like shit”. To be fair, I only listen to his aesthetic opinion 1/3 the time, but I was already on the fence with this one. Painted my front and rear polycarb black mask. masking video was me soliciting Greg’s opinion on the extent of the black mask. IMG_0726.MOV
  14. Bodywork almost done! I’m never doing this again 😂 Hopefully around a month from paint. Took some weights for curiosities sake. The fenders are within a few ounces of one another. The door weight includes the hinges (drivers side). The passenger side door is just under 14lbs now. Can’t run fiberglass doors in EP, otherwise John Washington’s 9lb fiberglass doors would have been awesome! Probably could have saved ~15lbs total by going with fiberglass fenders, but with all the custom metal work it was much easier for Me to complete in steel.
  15. Congrats Clark! Do you have a detail write-up on the motor? Would love to geek-out on the specs.
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