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LS1240Z

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Posts posted by LS1240Z

  1. American....The pictures that you see are about a year old of my 71 240Z. I pulled the motor/tranny & diff and sold to a kid that wanted to build it.He got wrapped up with school so he wants to sell it for much less then he paid for it.I posted pictures for you to see because I though it was a good deal for you or someone else.There is no dash currently in the car and there wasnt one in the car when I bought it.In the pictures,i was just showing what work that I done to it before I sold it.

  2. Amierica....I know a guy that is selling my old 71 240.He is asking $3000 for it.Just a roller.He paid me $3500 and he bought my Arizona Z brake kit for $600 from me too.I paid $1800 for the cage in it.I had custom handmade flares and rust repair that cost me $2000 and fully adjustable suspention that was another $1750.I stripped the interior and put down POR15 and then dynamatted the interior twice for sound deadening.Took me 8 hours just for that.There is no spare tire area.It was removed for the Z28 tank because it had the LS1 in it.It would be a good deal for you because he need to sell it quick before he goes off to school.It just needs body and paint.I sold it because I go a killer deal on a car that was parked in a barn for 15 years and had not a spot of rust.I had to build it.

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    Stan.....That P.O.S. you said you had was clean when I seen it.Hardley had any rust on it when you bought it.I would have bought if from you but you cut the tabs that hold the dash on.That was the only thing that steered me away from it.Do you realy think you were taken?That's not nice to say about somone who you call a friend.I would have paid the same price you did if I was in the market.

  3. The last time Darius had his 240 running was on the dyno when it blew the motor when it leaned out.It was like 650HP at the time and was runnng like crap.He wasnt even full throttle.The shafts he's runnin are CV on the end that bolts up to the diff and solid U-Joints that bolt up to the companian flange.He is the only guy that is running that set up ....that I know of.I believe he is on a different scale then most of the Z guys running the R230.The mustache bar is a solid mount also.

  4. I would just leave the passanger side.It's going to be hard enough to weld the 16 gauage to the factory sheetmetal.I would put the P.O.R. (Pour Over Rust)on the passanger floor after you fix it.I burned through the floor a few times and my sheet metal had not a spot of rust so it wasnt even thin.

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  5. I know of a pretty sweet deal depending on what you looking for.

    I sold my 71 240Z to this guy and now he is going to school so he is moving and wants to sell the car.Has a awsome looking cage and fully adjustable suspention and hand made flares that are real suttle.Completely dyno matted and very little rust.California car.It's just a rolling shell.Let me know and I'll post pics.

    PM me if you want.

  6. Not the R200 or R230 conversation again.Lets just put it this way.What ever it is...It will hold up to the power the Ls1 or LS2 power for sure.It's been proven and tested.I dont know of anyone who snapped a shaft yet.Mas280 put close to 450HP at the wheels and 1.50 60ft's with no problem.

    You almost have everything you need now.I'll hook up the billet bar and you need your axles and you got everything.Make sure you use lock-tite on the every single bolt you use on the CV's.I had to find out the hard way.

  7. Do you plan on putting that diff in your Z?The shape is different then a Q45 but the same diff I believe.Let me know if you need the adapters.I have billet ones that are half the weight of the steel ones and 1/2 the cost too.I'll set you up for $125+ shipping.The companian flange is recessed into the adapter so there is no stress on the bolts either.PM me if interested

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    Just a quick note for anyone looking for a new differential for their Z. I recently purchased a VLSD R200 on ebay. It included the original driveshafts and I got it at a really good price. It had to be shipped by truck but was still a lot cheaper than some of the ones I've seen elsewhere. My came from a 300ZX but they often sell then from skylines and other nissans as well. The seller is jhot-imports and they have a skyline diff. listed as of today.

     

    Hope this helps someone out.

  8. Cyrus...what going on?Long time no talk.I know of a guy that will probaly do it around $4000 and that includes everything.He does awsome work and plan on using him myself for my 240Z.I know him from mas280.He will be painting both our cars pretty soon.I seen his work and is pretty cool.PM me if interested.If your interested in your old 240...it's available for sale as of yeasterday.The person I sold it to wants to sell it because he is going to collage.He wants $3500 for it.I put the full cage in it and custom sheetmetal flares,full adjustable suspention,New front window,Arizona Z front control arms,Arizona Z Front rotors and callapers.Let me know and I'll give you the guys number. Later....John

    First I called Mach Auto Body but the guy I talked to said his brother was on vaction till aug 17th.

     

    Second I called Castillo Body Shop and was told that Sergio does not speak english.

     

    Then I called another shop that said $6500 minmum... This is tough.

     

    Any more ideas?

  9. Hey there Joey...You are the 4th guy.I suppose I could post it there.I guess I wasnt paying attention and didnt realize we had the group buy section.Thanks bro....See ya

    Just a thought....... Have you thought of also posting this in the group buys forum?

    See ya soon!

    JOEY

    P.S. I saw MAS280 today and he gave me the news. Soooo I believe I'm one of the 4 already counted for?.

  10. The problem is that the part is expensive as it is already.The person interested in betting a bar must pay the shipping on there item.It's a great suggestion but I just didnt want fellow members thinking I was raping them.I'm going to have the CNC guy drop ship them and if there is any increased cost for shipping he will cover it since he's the one getting the doe. Thanks

    Just a suggestion... put up your price a little so you make a small margin. (maybe 10% tops) Otherwise in my experience (and everyone elses on this board) you will actually lose money in the end because of increased costs for shipping' date=' special orders, custom requests, etc. I don't think anyone will be unhappy if you do this, I know I wouldn't be.

     

    Free advice, take it for what it cost you. ;)[/quote']

  11. Just posting pictures of my Billet mustache bar to see if others are interested.I posted these pictures last year some time if I can remember corrcetly.After I had this one made a few other guys wanted them also.The bar is 3/4 inch and has been stress tested.The allen bolts that bolt into the end pieces will be flush.The holes will be chanfered for a cleaner look.You will need to buy the bushings for the ends.You can get them from Dave at http://www.Arizonazcar.com.

    Dave sells a billet mustache bar also. I'm not trying to take business from him either.I like Dave and his parts.This will be a 1 time thing only.He's better at selling parts.He sells them for $250 + shipping which is reasonable.These mustache bars will be $350 + shipping.I'm not making money from this.If you decide to get one,you can send me a deposit and after it's done,you can pay the CNC shop the rest.These bars are a 1/4 inch thicker then Arizona z cars.I never heard of any problems with there bars either.I just like the fact that mine is 3/4 because I dont want to have to worry about it flexing or breaking because I will have 500+RWHP

    .I DID NOT COPY THERE DESIGN!This bar was built months before he built his bar was.You can do a search under my user name to see the history.I have 4 guys in line for a mustache bar so far.Please dont explain how expensive it is because I know it's not cheap.I payed $800 for the first one you see in the picture because I had it built from scratch.I payed for the design time and materal.I'm just hooken some guys up and the CNC guy so later if I need parts he's give me a better deal.Beside....I dont want everybody and there mother to have the same mustache bar I do.A few guys,I dont mind.The deadline for this will be about 2 weeks,give or take a couple days.

     

    BTW:Please dont tell me my diff is a R200 and not a R230.I dont care....

    All I know is that it will hold up to the power I layed down and that's all that I care about...know what I mean?

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  12. Mike will take care of you for sure.He's honest and straight up.He's done more swaps then anyone else I ever met.He did his 93 RX7/LS1 in less then a week.I'm sure he would have taken you car sooner but he needs to finish his 240 that on the rotissery in his garage right now.He will be finished in the same time frame that he plans on doing you car I believe.

    Well i'm hoping mike (mas280) can do this swap.

    i talked to him and we agreed to start by winter around december/jan.

    after that it up to him.

    I know i could have gone lots of other ways.but find me a sbc with 6 miles that makes 400 hp.and gives you lots of gas milage.

     

    A family member has the 05 GTO so i know i will like that engine.

  13. Hey there,I have a aluminum drive shaft that I have from a 240Z LS1 convertion that I had a while ago.The Yoke went from a T56 to a R180 and R200.I'm assuming you have a T56 tranny.I'm hook you up cheap if you need it.

    I will be needing a driveshaft for my Z as well as some other misc. custom work done. Where's a good shop in the east/north bay to get high quality custom work done? I don't want to go through the yellow pages...

     

    -Dylan

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