Jump to content
HybridZ

A to Z

Members
  • Content Count

    287
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

A to Z last won the day on June 17 2021

A to Z had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About A to Z

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

442 profile views
  1. The video I mentioned above. Just click on "Video 1.MOV" : Video 1.MOV
  2. 1-17-2022 UPDATE. I finished the pillar emblem repainting and installed them. I then got my driver's door back together, lubricated both doors, and then put the driver's interior panel and associated bits back on. Next for them with be repainting the chrome strips with a Chrome paint pen. I then walked over to the right side and block sanded out the one dent in the right (passenger) door, and then went about the process of bolting the lower right fender down. The 2 broke off bolts were NOT going to be removed, and it was at that time I realized I can drill a hole next to each one and fasten
  3. Thanks. I am trying. I picked these stickers up on eBay:
  4. In the old days, you used to make a block out of a piece of wood to certain dimensions and stuff it under the upper timing chain gear to keep everything from moving when removing the head. I would recommend doing that. Free horsepower is to be gained by removing those probes from that exhaust manifold. Mine wouldn't come out, so with a Dremel I cleaned off the outside and make it flush like a bolt, and had them welded shut and ground down again.....now they just look like plugs. On the inside I again used my dremel and made what was left of the probes flush with the port. Belo
  5. Really enjoying your build. Keep up the good work. I really hope you don't find a cracked head or block. Wow....:( Joe
  6. Cheers on the workman ship Noll...... absolutely impressive. Good show! THANK YOU so much for sharing this. Always nice to see this sort of thing.
  7. Interesting. Is that a VW dash?
  8. 1-4-2022 UPDATE. First update of the new year. I had a few hours and it wasn't TOO cold, so I went out and tackled the driver's door latch. For me at least, there was no way to get it out without removing the door frame, so out it went! At that point I was able to see it, but the guy that said there is plenty of room, must have hands the size of an 8 year old girl, or was kidding, because it is a tight working space! I had to grab each rod (3 in total) with needle nose pliers and push HARD to get them to come off the latch! I put a piece of cardboard behind so as to not slip and dent the door
  9. In a day or two I will tackle fixing the driver's side door on my 1972 240Z. The latch needs to be replaced, as the spring is broken and hence the door won't close. From what I have gathered there are 3 rods attached to it. Can any of you give me any tips on geting it out?
  10. Early / Late Wheel Cylinders? - Wheels & Brakes - The Classic Zcar Club (classiczcars.com)
  11. Really wanted help, not a hard time......Just saying. A google search brought up posts on different pages over 10 years old.
  12. Well, my 240Z, dated 04/72 now has a rear wheel cylinder that is shot. I have read online that you can simply bend the line to make it work on a 1973 up cylinder. Is this the best option? A replacement early one is easily 5 times the price. Please advise. Joe
  13. 12-26-2021 UPDATE: Ok, so following advice I got, I went ahead and used a steam iron and a wet towel over the rear deck carpet and dash carpet cover. I had to keep getting the towel wet for maximum steam effect. The wrinkles came out! I also went ahead and took the vise grips off the repaired area on the louvers...it worked! Thanks for the help guys. Here are some pics:
×
×
  • Create New...