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jonbill last won the day on September 23 2021

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  1. have a look at this thread.
  2. that does look like mine - fractured at the key slot
  3. This is my oil pump gear and spindle from 2017. I put it down to the load from the turbo oil pump and lots of revs. I replaced with a bronze drive gear and its been fine since.
  4. I just use ignition advance to control idle speed. 28° when cold going down to 6-8° when warm. Idles at ~1000 rpm from startup.
  5. Forged street pistons, 88.5 & 38.1 PH and 89.5 & 35.5 PH.
  6. I just emailed Mr Mori. or is it Mr Kame? I'm not sure, but he's very helpful. kame.mori@nifty.com
  7. I have Kameari pistons in two engines. (w/ maxpeedingrods rods). Never had any problems and Kameari are really good to deal with direct.
  8. seems to be a fairly common problem with Safari on ios. Is that what you're using @calZ?
  9. I think accepted wisdom is that p30 block can be safely taken to 86. n42/f54 blocks preferred for bigger bores. unless you're prepared to fit liners of course.
  10. It doesn't matter I know, but I'm compelled to point out it is torsen (torque-sensing), not torsion or torsten. Sorry.
  11. are there sparks and do the plugs get wet with fuel?
  12. I have rods from Maxspeeding rods in my current and previous engine. I have very close tolerances between piston and head and no contact and no problems at all. I'd recommend them.
  13. I think a short stroke engine is cool, but even the LD crankshaft isn't super long stroke and will rev. I'm revving mine to 7700, and my previous engine with l28 crank went well past 8. (in the end it was valve train that limited the rpm)
  14. Thanks. I like the weather TBH. Brexit is... hard to explain This pic is of the piston in situ - you can see where the proximity of the head squish area has kept the piston clean. This is my previous engine with 0.6mm head to piston clearance.
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