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jonbill

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About jonbill

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  1. The diagram shows the injectors have +12v at all times I think; doesn't go through the switch. So: it will idle on 5, but if you try to rev it higher, it dies. correct? But, if you ground the 6th,through your test light, it will rev. correct? as @NewZed said, its probably bad earths from the ECU.
  2. so it runs with any 5 of 6 injectors plugged in and any 1 of 6 disconnected? or is it a specific one that has to be disconnected?
  3. The epoxy putty fell off during the run in, but it didn't leak 🙃 I've put another lump on now, mainly for luck!
  4. Progress is delayed. I hadn't noticed the bead on the gasket is just outside the block where the coolant bypass is on a petrol block, and I had a leak when I assembled it. I've built the block out with a spot of epoxy putty to give the bead something to sit on. No idea how long it will hold, but tomorrow should be first start.
  5. what cut out switch is it? maybe its got some diodes (or?) that affect the potential of the ground. or maybe the connection just isn't good.
  6. ah yes, I get it now, thanks.
  7. surely an idler sprocket isn't going to impose much speed variation on the chain - it'll be completely dominated by the driving and driven sprockets, so wouldn't the polygon effect mean the idler sprocket speed varies instead? the term and concept is brand new to me, so I could be completely wrong.
  8. thats a fair bit of work. did you have to lower the rear arm mounts too?
  9. Ah, we're talking about the twin idler, I thought you were hinting the longer chain would be different! I've has it for years on the previous couple of engines. I love it.
  10. There's a lonf thread on here about it somewhere. I think the main points is it controls the chain at high RPM and especially when the engine is decelerating - the standard setup lets it go baggy on the tight side, changing timing. Also its dead handy for taking up extra slack after you skim the head and also it doesn't try to fall out when you take the head off. I'm not sure about it sucking energy to make that noise. It really is just two idler gears with little resistance. Maybe something to do with the oil spray from it.
  11. what should I expect? I'm using the Kameari twin idler, so I'm not expecting trouble
  12. Thats a thought. I have an RT mount as a snubber, so would only need to add the GM bit. I understand it lowers the diff a bit by default.
  13. thanks, that makes sense. But, how would I shim the front of the diff to get it lower? surely a shim would raise it?
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