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About jonbill

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  1. jonbill


    Great stuff, what was the problem?
  2. jonbill


    I'll post my tune when I get home tomorrow. Do you have a similar setup to me? Looks like you've got 36-1 trigger wheel. Here's a thread I have on the speeduino forum while I was trying to get it to work that might have some useful info. https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2537
  3. I suspect Quaife will advise you to install the circlips before installing the diff in the carrier. You might be better off biting the bullet and taking it out again. As long as you don't mix up the shims under the bearing cups you can't mess up the setup, so nothing to worry about.
  4. It rather depends what you'll do with it. I'd recommend getting this book or one of the others like it. How to Build and Power Tune Weber and Dellorto DCOE and DHLA Carburettors (Speedpro Series) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1903706750/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ah7PCb8WCD7AH They'll help you pick the parts you want for your use case. First thing I'd do with them is swap them for 45s.
  5. There was a time when the Quaife diffs didn't come with the circlips pre installed and you (or your installer) had to install them before installing the diff into the case. I've read people's troubles installing them after the diff is in the case. The circlips needs to be compressed and pushed square into the driveshaft hole until it expands into its groove. Sounds like yours just wasn't ever installed.
  6. No you shouldn't have to bleed it. Worth checking though that the pin is pushing on the release fork and that the release for is pushing against the clutch cover springs.
  7. I may have missed it, but how did you ensure the motor output drive and gearbox input shaft are perfectly in line? That's the complete one-off so surely the most likely source of errors.
  8. I'm sure they'll be fine. I guarantee the buying has only just started though!
  9. No I think you're right, if you don't go over 6 ish much, stick with the 34s. They'll work as well up to 6k as bigger ones could.
  10. IMO venturi size is driven by the amount of air you need to flow, which is dominated by displacement and max rpm you're going to use. Not cam specs so much. There are a few variations of a formula around. Frank Honsowetz's book has this: Venturi size=sqrt(cylinder displacement * max rpm ÷ 1000) * 0.65 Which for a 2.7 with a 7k rpm used redline gives 36mm venturi size. Which sounds right to me. I have a 2.9 which I rev to 8k with 39mm venturi. Should prob be bigger but that's getting to the limit of 45mm body anyway. Some will say you should have smaller venturi for the street: The bigger the venturi the harder it is to get the transitions between idle and progression and main jets right but it is possible.
  11. jonbill


    I've just finished a Speeduino 0.4.3c ignition only install on my car. It uses a 36-1 crank damper trigger wheel and a TPS with a Bosch clone wasted spark coil pack and igniter setup. Probably about £250 all in but could be done cheaper I'm sure.
  12. My f54 is at 88.5 so 2915 with Kameari pistons and Maxspeedingrods l28 rods. I wish I'd been braver and gone 90. But it goes nicely so can't complain.
  13. These guys sell shims that thick and thicker. http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/slotted I have them in my engine and would recommend them.
  14. With plugs that cool, I think they'll foul pretty easy if you're not loading it, which could be the case if it's been off the road for a while. I'd stick a new set of plugs in, gapped at 0.6mm
  15. Not sure if someone already mentioned it - check the thermostat. It could be stuck part open, could be in the wrong orienation and unable to open fully
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