jonbill

Yeah I did email them but no reply. I don't blame them; nothing in it for them. I should hear tomorrow how the liners worked out.

Its a bit of a voyage of discovery. The firm doing the boring and liners seem confident the liners will be held ok top and bottom, and they do a lot of them although not on this engine obvs. but I'll only really know if it works when I've run it.

Update on this. 4 cylinders on the v57 block have been bored to 89.5 and are serviceable. front two got too thin and are being linered. The crank has been lightened to 17 kg and offset ground to 84.25 stroke and ia going for balancing with an XTD RB25 flywheel and clutch. Kameari 89.5 pistons coming next week, so its all moving along.

schneidercams.com spring retainers are deeper. http://schneidercams.com/7steelretainer-73004.aspx you might need to check they fit your springs.

first up, you need to get the physical size right- distance between the o rings and diameter of the o rings. if like my Fajs ITBs it'll be 61mm and 14mm. then you have to get the electrical connector right - if your efi comes with a harness, it'll already have connectors, probably uscar or jetronic. then you want to pick the right flow rate. 330cc will get you to around 50bhp/cylinder. I have Bosch 0280156095 which were on european ford focus st170 10/15 years ago and so are quite cheap.

are you sure the choke is off?

it seems odd to me that it runs fine above 1300 rpm. if something is broken, i cant imagine how it becomes unbroken with a few more RPM. are you sure you haven't got an ecu feature set that turns on or off at 1300, and isn't set right? ego control, idle ignition control, map switching etc?

if its idling at 2000, your first problem is too much air, not too much fuel.

why not leave the ECU running the distributor?

the right looks like it's got positive camber and the left looks like it's got a little negative, suggests something is bent. (assuming standard suspension gear). this thread may have some help. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/rear-wheel-toe-in-on-one-side.23571/

My two major sources of vibration/shaking were tyre wear patterns and worn front wheel bearings.

Hi, I've been doing a load of searching, and there are probably about 1/2 dozen threads about building an engine on the LD28 block and crank and have got a lot of info from them. I'm just embarking on building the engine. Aim is to use the 83mm crank and get the bore out to around 90mm with sleeves, which I think will get to about 3.1 liter. I'm looking to get some feedback on my plan, and possible answers to questions as I go along, or just bored silence So - V57 block (rear sump), V07 crank and I've acquired 6 Isuzu 4ZE1 rods from Maxpeedingrods. They're 150mm long, 26.8 mm wide with 21mm little end and 52mm big end. I'll be using my existing modified P90 head - chamber size is currently 39cc. Questions: 1) by my calc, I'm looking for a piston with compression height around 35 to 36. does that sound about right? Kameari have 35.5 CH forged pistons up to 89.5mm bore - anyone know any others? 2) with a 1mm undersize rod journal, can the crank be offset ground that 1mm and get me 84mm stroke? or doesn't it work like that? 3) Do I need to open up the water holes on the right side of the block to match the head water holes, or plug the head holes? I'm assuming the former, but read a thread maybe suggested the latter. 4) The block doesn't have the water bypass to the pump hole, and it can't be made. I'm assuming this isn't a problem and I don't need to do anything to blank the head here. correct? 5) The replacement liners will need to be brazed in one way or another. Anyone got any details of what does and doesn't work here? 6) I'm planning to use the LD timing cover (modified to get rid of the mounting for the diesel pump). All the threads I read, people used the L20B timing cover - Is the only concern here the distributor? I'm running a distributor-less setup. I don't think L20B timing covers are so plentiful here in the UK. 7) I don't like the idea of drilling my nice P90 head for M12 bolts, I'd like to keep it usable for my F54 block if possible, so I'd like to helicoil the block to M10 and just get longer M10 head bolts. Anything wrong with this plan? That's all I've got for now - all feedback welcome.

I really like mine. No slop at all.

I don't think I had to use any power tools I do vaguely recall it took me a little while to figure it out, but it was a couple of years ago now! Maybe there was a lock screw somewhere...

Yes, I have the B&M shifter (I think it was B&M anyway!) The coupler thing came off on mine.