jonbill

Resistor plugs give less electrical interference than non resistor plugs, so perhaps some EMS could be sensitive to interference from non resistor plugs. I wouldnt think coil packs would be affected though. I don't think there's a down side to using resistor plugs.

Does "jumping to its own direction" mean the car changes direction somewhat? If its clunking and steering at the backend when you come off the throttle I would think there's something loose in the suspension rather than the differential.

"it" appears to be 3 cam profiles and you are asked to pick one. The highest lift one won't work with stock valve springs. You should get new rockers with a new cam. You'll also need new lash pads. You won't know what size lash pads until you've mocked it up.

Thanks, that's really interesting about the idle speed. Since I installed this engine it's been idling at 1100, except this spring I installed Speeduino mapped ignition and dropped the idle to 950, just because I could really. I did maybe 2k miles like that before I found the damage. It would be very nice to not strip and rebuild the bottom end this winter to drill that oil jet. Maybe I'll just fit the new springs, skim the head up to 12:1 and finish the conversion to EFI.

Thanks. My engine I suppose got to about 6 or 7k miles before I discovered this wear. I've always used zddp additive with decent synthetic oil. I've had the cam repaired and discussed the springs with the cam grinder/repairer and others and consensus is that the schneider 68025 springs are a little too stiff for the L engine rocker arm setup; I probably have near 300 lb pressure at full lift with them. So I've bought some 68022 which are in the right range. I'll also be stripping the engine down and drill the block oil jet out to 3mm over the winter. I'm hoping those two changes should see it good for many more miles.

the injector should be closed unless it is triggered. You've got 5 that aren't spraying fuel with the engine off, and one that is right? I think you've got one stuck injector.

Why does the line from the pump inlet to the turbo have water flowing in both directions?

The site specific search I think actually requires no space before "hybridz.org" Site:hybridz.org search terms. With the space I think it treats hybridz.org as just another search term. (so it will more often find results on hybridz.org, but not exclusively)

Thanks. There's no discolouration, just missing material, so assume not overheated. Oil holes are definitely clear. Could be thin hardened depth, I'm ignorant of any treatment applied to cams TBH.

Thanks, they've certainly worked fine for 3 years with lots of revs, so no real reason to suspect them other than search not showing anyone here using the 68025 springs.

Thanks, yes, they were new Nissan ones. They don't have any damage. It has a high volume pump. Thanks for info on spray bar and lucas zddp.

Hi, I've been running a. 585 lift 307/8 duration cam for 3 years now (8 or 9k miles). A couple of the lobes have just started to lose material from near the tips. And I'm looking for how to avoid when I fit a replacement copy of the cam. The cam is reground from an oiled 1981 f54 l28. I have Schneider 68025 springs with a seat pressure = 125 lb ( I think) Are the seat pressures too much? I could swap for 68022 springs at 110lb. Should I use a spray bar too? Was I just unlucky or used the wrong zddp additive this year? Thanks for any pointers. Jon

Are you trying to install with two circlips per side?

So you turned the whole engine by turning the cam, and the wrong way? Which is to say you turned the crank by pulling on the tight side of the chain? That won't be a problem for the oil pump. Don't think that'll be a problem at all.

Why should you turn the cam at all to take the head off? Once the head is off you can turn the cam if you want. You just have to make sure it's back in the right position when you put it back on.