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About corey_49

  • Birthday 09/14/1990

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    Toronto Ontario Canada
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  1. The initial plan was to switch over to electrical points (https://zcardepot.com/engine/ignition/pertronix-ignitor-ii-electronic-ignition-conversion.html) however that part only works with the manual transmission version, as the auto has a different backing plate. I just changed the points and set the gap to 0.020" inbetween the 0.018 and 0.022" specked out. The condenser was replaced about 4-5 years ago about 5000-7000 miles.
  2. When the car is idling i take a multimeter to the battery and it reads 14.24-14.36 volts. I rev up the engine and it stays more or less the same. The S circuit could be a problem as it is connected to original wiring. when this symptom started i drove the car about 1 hour the day before and about 20 minutes the day of before it started acting up. what do you think i could of fried?
  3. The car is a 1971 240z, and the car ran fine before with the original 40 amp alternator but when i installed the 90 amp i noticed an improvement, small but noticeable. I don't think it is a fuel problem because i still have the mechanical fuel pump and a clean filter.
  4. I have just installed a new alternator (https://zcardepot.com/electrical/battery/alternator-high-amp-90-240z-260z-280z.html?search=alternator) and external regulator delete (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4067). I had the car running beautifully for one day, or the best it has ever run for me, then ignition problem only when hot. The car will run fine when first starting up or idling and you can cruise along fine for short time. When you start to rev the engine up and put it through its entire RPM range I only get 2-4 shots at full throttle up to 6500rpm. Once hot I lose all power and it stumbles, kind of like really bad timing, constant misfire, or running of 5 cylinders. The car wants to die and if you stop moving or allow the car to idle the engine will stall, I have to keep the engine rpm above 1000 rpm and baby it home. I can get up to about 30mph but that is about it. I can stop and keep the car idling for a short time and the car will eventually idle for itself, after about 5 minutes I get about 30 seconds of use maxing out around 2500-3000 rpm and then back to the same problem. Or I turn the car off and take a break for half hour and get about 3-5 minutes of normal driving before the problem persists. The ignition system Ignition Coil: Crane PS-20 Performance Coil http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic11f03/12-4051 Plug wires:Taylor Thundervolt 50 Racing 10.4mm http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic11k/12-4169 Spark plugs: NGK BPR6ES Everything else is stock for a 240z (auto transmission distributor) 1) Battery is old and kind of dead, have replacement just need to change some things. This is my first step 2) Change Spark plugs, they are about 4 years old and have about 5000-7000 miles on them. 3) Swap out new alternator for old set up. Any ideas/ solutions would be a great help as I am at a loss and don’t know where to go from here. P.S. anyone have an original Distributor for a 240z Manual transmission version as I want to convert to electrical points set up. Located near Toronto Canada. Thx
  5. Thanks for the quick response; I was planning on replacing the stock alternator with the 60amp internal regulator one from MSA for 127.95 (part # 12-4068). And yes I think I will buy the radiator from champion $339.98 (SKU CC110-110FS12). I agree with Grim, I really hate the sound it makes, then I watch this video on YouTube and it just made me want to change it even more. I could not find any specs for how many amps the 2x fans would draw but looking online they range from 10 -15 so 25 amps for both is a good estimate, I think and the Davies Craig EWP draws 10amp so already I need more than a 60 amp alternator. After a quick google search I came up with a GM CS130 alternator rated at 85 or 105 amps at idle. What do you guys run? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXdLgaFXZzs I think I will hold off on getting the Electric Water Pump if I don’t have enough power to run it and the fans, I think more there are more gains from electric fans then water pump.
  6. So I have just sold my house and have some cash to final spend on the 240z. I want to create an efficient cooling system to free up some power from the l24. This means getting rid of the stock fan and replacing it with an electric unit. I was looking on MSA and found a 12” dual electric fan and shroud kit, it is expensive at $349.95 (Part # 16-7054) it looks nice has 2x fans and a shroud, install should be easy if you shell out another $249.95 for a 3 Row Aluminum Radiator. Therefore a complete drop in replacement would cost total $599.95(Part # 16-6980). Another product I saw was an electric water pump from MSA $297.95 (Part # 16-7025). Together these products should complement each other and remove some parasitic losses. Although after some research I found Davies Craig Electric Water Pumps and controller. It allows you to remove the stock OEM thermostat, controls the fans, and allows you to adjust the temp if you want,(EWP115 Alloy http://daviescraig.com.au/) all this and a nice little LCD screen for $489. Not to mention that this is a universal kit for engine between 2.0L to 3.5L, the only hard part will be fabricating a block off plate for the OEM water Pump. I know that this is an expensive option for maybe 15 HP but I like this because it is modular. I am just wondering what the z car community thinks. Also another little bit is I am from Toronto Canada so exchange rate is painful; I am interested in your thoughts and possible alternatives.
  7. The other day i was driving the car hard and out of no where the car revved up very fast but the car did not accelerate. I drop the gas pedal and slowly reapply the gas. Right as i get into the power the car does it again revved up but did not move any faster. When i get it home i look under the car and see the clutch slave cylinder is leaking fluid when i press the clutch. 1) Is the clutch slave cylinder my only problem or do i need a new clutch too? 2) How do i identify the 5 speed in the car to match the new clutch slave cylinder or is this a generic part Thanks
  8. Ok thank you for the clarification on the input shafts i was unsure of this. I Would like to use a Helix/Torsen LSD with 3.90 from a 2009 and up. Has any one put one of these in there car? If not does any one know if the input and output shafts are the same as a 2005. I think i will be sending a pm to Johnc very soon and as for the Wolf Creek CV i think that will be later after i get the diff installed and running. My car will be running a l24 with SU carbs and an aggressive cam so i am not to worried about braking any thing, as thing brake or get close i am upgrading/updating to better stuff. Thanks for the info
  9. I have been researching what Subaru diff to use in an early 71 240z, and the internet is kind of fuzzy on this stuff so I want to post here to clarify. PLEASE TELL ME WHERE I AM WRONG. Subaru Impreza use r160 and r180 differential, the WRX and base model get the r160. While the STI gets the r180, I am unsure of the Impreza WRX STI as it is the highest trim level I would assume that it gets the same diff, ratio, and internals as the STI. 2004-05 has a CLSD with 3.90 ratios with the 27 spline side axels. 2006-08 has a Helix/Torsen LSD or a CLSD (depending on the year) with a 3.54 ratio. I am unsure of the spline count but I think it is the same 27. 2009 and up have Helix/Torsen LSD with 3.90 ratio unknown spline count (please fill me in as 2009 and up is what I would like to use). The exterior on the 240z r180 and the STI R180 are the exact same, so the stock 240z Diff mounting should work(however replacing 40 plus year old Diff mounts are a good idea, whole other conversation about diff mounts not going to get into it). All Diff mounts for 240Z R180 will work with STI r180. From there on out everything is different. With the help of www.betamotorsports.com they supply lovely differential side axles that allow the use of stock halfshafts. To replace the stock halfshafts www.wolfcreekracing.com has a very nice (kinda expensive) CV kit that swaps right in bolt for bolt. As for the Input flange where the drive shaft connects to the differential, there is little information. I assume that you can use part of the Subaru drive shaft and install it on the Z drive shaft. I do not have access to many s30 parts and STI parts are a lot easier to find. I will appreciate all the help on this issue.
  10. What head are the valves going into ???
  11. That is what i thought, but i am not a mechanic and am unsure of all the small changes. What i would like to know exactly is what differences there are between the original L24 and the updated L28 F54 block. Thanks for your advice
  12. Well it is about time that my 71 240z needs a new motor, or a rebuild. My mechanic wants me to Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) and just rebuild the original but it seems like a bit of a wast of time when i already have a 280z 5 speed in the car. Is it possible to use the F54 block with su carbs. Then later if i want to switch to a turbo motor or fuel injection i can, and already have a good motor to start from. I just don't want to rebuild this engine and 4 years down the road have to make a new one again from scratch. Also parts for the F54 block are easier to get since the engine is a few years newer. All i would like to know is how hard this could be and if it is worth doing, i am not looking for a hardcore motor with lots of HP i am going into university and want it to last and be cheap to repair if i do have a bit too much fun.
  13. I am going to do the brakes on my 71 240z soon and i have a questions about the 4x4 brakes, more to the point can i use the s12 from a 79-84 Toyota and will they fit under the stock 5 slot aluminum rims. Along with the Maxima bracket/280zx rear caliper swap
  14. i am interested in this RC 240z but is it 4wd???
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