TheMission
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Posts posted by TheMission
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It's off for me as well, but in a different way...
I just finished my panel and had to make some decent changes. I don't have heater controls, so I don't know about that fitment, but on my dash, the bottom of the template was almost 2/3 inch too narrow to fit cleanly.
I'll have pictures up of my work, and will show how it's different from the template I printed out. I ran it on 11x17 paper at 1:1 and everything else checked out measurement wise, but the bottom of the template had clear gaps when laid against my dash.
I definitely would suggest running it in cardboard and checking fitment for your application before paying to have it cut by someone.
Pics should be up around 10 tonight, as I'm at the "office" now.
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I'm planning on playing around with the drift potential on my 240 when I finally finish my build... If only just for fun.... I already have the setup for hydraulic rear hand brake and running ~300-325whp should be enough the keep the rear tires loose. When I get there, I'll see what problems I'll have...
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Ahhh.... I thought about doing the FMIC/Radiator Similar to yours, but worried about heatsoak with them being that close... The profec is a decent unit. How do you have it mounted?
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I just printed out the files in a couple templates and will hopefully mark it out and cut in in plexi this week.
My setup will be different, as I'll have much push button start, profec, and wideband in the middle instead of the HVAC, as I'm not running any... I'll post pics when I have something worthwhile to show for my playing around... I was going to just measure and make one myself, but this may definitely save time there.
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I'm wiring up the Spec II next week or so... it's pretty straightforward on use if you read up on the forums... here's a few good links to get you started... I bookmarked them when I was reading up... the manual is available online and has great info as well.
http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/79489-help-needed-greddy-profec-b-ii-tuning.html
You've never driven the car? Did you buy it built? I've done mine from the ground up, so I've figured out most of the deal.
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I like http://www.siliconeintakes.com personally... good prices there and a decent product as well... I've got most of my silicone through there...
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Vacuum Lines are In - New Valve Cover is On, Things are really starting to look good and it's looking like an engine...
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Fuel System is Finished! (Minus the 180degree AN fitting in the front of the rail) I just got the Shaved Valve Cover in Wrinkle Black Now and it's going on tomorrow, so there should be some great pics then as well...
I have to get the cold pipe welded and get the recirc/bov flange welded on the Hot pipe as well and the I/C piping will be done... (Just waiting on a few silicone couplers and pieces and all that will be done)
Then, it's engine harness re-wrapping and install and I'll be really close to test firing the baby...
Here's the Engine Fuel System Setup.
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This is a better idea... the lock is built into the quick release system and prevents people from taking your wheel at shows or such if you leave it on the car, plus it has a unique pattern for locking on, so guys with another setup can't hook up their wheels to it. Tekniq also has some nice wheels as well.
I've had the snap off street version and loved it... unique, protected my pricey wheel when it was on the car and also no one could hook their wheel up to it.
http://www.tekniqauto.com/US/steeringquickrelease.htm
The race version is awesome for super quick release as well.
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I got it from Jerry Bickel Racing, who does a lot of dragster stuff... It fits perfect... there are a couple kinds of them, but I liked the surface mount over the flush mount...
Here's the link
http://www.jerrybickel.com/fuel-systems/fuel-access-door-surface-mount.html
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The back is put back together and riveted back in... I still need to pick up a dry cell for under the screwed on small panel, but that can wait till later anyways... The panels are just laid in there and I'll use the panel plastic pins to hold them on once I'm sure I don't need to get back into there for anything, as they are a pain to take out.
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The FMIC is mounted and in now, The Radiator and Fan are on, and the Radiator Hoses are set...
I still have to have an adapter welded onto the hot pipe for the "Bypass Valve", and weld together something for the cold pipe to get the right fit and allow the AAC valve hose to go into it.
I'm using a 240sx/Sr20det conversion intake pipe kit as it has two nice hookups for my vent from the valve cover and for the Recirc hose from the Bypass Valve to go into. These are what are on order:
Here's the Valve I'm running
And that nifty pipe for Intake
Some Updates Pics for Today
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Here's some poor angled pics, but the radiator is in and mounted and I am fabbing up the intercooler piping and mounting the FMIC by this weeked.
Also picked up a Freddy Plenum and got that on and set up as well.
By next week the FMIC and Radiator should all be mounted and I should have the piping figured out for them.
I'll also have the new valve cover in, which will be powder coated wrinkle black and shaved.
The rear floor should be in next week as well and I'll be able to get the Autopower bar in... it should then look more and more like a car instead of the shell it's been for more than a year.
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Some good progress was made this weekend... It fits wonderfully, with the mounts and driveshaft all set.
The radiator and intercooler are ordered and on their way, which gets it closer to actually being able to be running and tested out.
Here's some fun pictures -
The back all in the daylight
It's in -
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Yea for Updates!
The engine is a week or two away from going into the car for fitting the mount and welding that in... the transmission mount is all set and the fuel system is 90 percent done... It's getting there quickly...
Here's some updated pics.
The engine bay with the mounts in it:
The Trans Mount test fitted:
The Fuel pump/filter setup:
The Back End Look:
Shot from the hatch:
Off the Engine Stand!
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Well, had the day off today, so finished the wiring for the fuse panel, relay setup, alarm/keyless, then tested and tidied everything up a bit.
Everything works as it should!
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Well, not too many updates as it's been wait, wait, wait on shipping for things, but I have most of the fuel system parts and all of the AN fittings, just missing Fuel Filter before I can go too hog wild plumbing everything. Tomorrow I finish most of the wiring and everything works, from the tails to signals to h/l relays and the infernal wiper motor running awesome on low and high, as I refreshed that sucker and cleaned the relay assembly and it works great.
I've got all new LED bulbs I'll try out in the stock tails, just to see what they look like, as they are cheap anyways and can't hurt, as I dislike the old bulbs.
Engine is on it's way from Kansas, should be here next week.
SR20DET S13, with everything.
New CAS
New Stage II Clutch
Vildini Mount
Custom Trans Mount
Modified and Refreshed U-joint Drive Shaft for the swap
Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC
Hooray!
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+1 for this... I too find it tough to not be able to edit my original post or tweak older posts, especially in build threads, as it's nice to clean things up or change things based on new info and now we can't.
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FYI, if I recall correctly, only 280ZX Turbo's with an automatic transmission came from the factory with an oil cooler.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
Can't go wrong with not letting the turbo just go hog wild on your oil temps and doing something more, even for just peace of mind.
Take a look at the Mocal Unit... It's such a great idea, although a bit pricey... I'm planning on running it line with an electric water pump on dccontrol unit, so it doesn't really cool the oil until the car really heats up and the water pump starts really flying, I guess you could always add a thermostat to it for good measure. (I like the simplicity of it and not having another "Radiator" up front.... Intercooler + Oil Cooler + Radiator)
Here's the spec sheet for it.
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Well, this last week was a bust - My Lil' Dude got sick and makes it hard to get progress on the Car.
I'm very close to completing the major wiring systems - I've tested the tails/signals/brakes/wiper, but still need to wire up door locks and window motors completely. Everything else is pretty much set.
Here's products I've chosen for the fuel system -
Aeroquip Socketless Hose
Aeroquip 8AN (Tank to Fuel Pump/Return to tank) and 6AN (Tank to FPR/Engine/Return) fittings.... Pretty much everything listed above... but did get some decent price breaks over what I estimated.
Don't worry, I researched the heck out of this stuff and it's designed and has been used in EFI high pressure systems no problem. Rated to 250psi
Walbro 255lph inline + Kit
Fuelab AFPR
Fuelab Inline 10 micron Filter
Generic Aftermarket Side Feed Fuel Rail (for Bling and allows easy -6an line connections)
Engine is hopefully about 2 weeks out now and updates will come a blazing when I start tear down and rebuild of that baby!
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Heck, if you only want to sell to someone with fabrication experience...
I'd want to make more money than that and make it an everyman's project! Plus, from what I've found, it looks like a good few had a hard time with it and if they don't speak well of the process, it effects the decisions of people thinking about buying it - Including me.
Easy, Easy, Easy and it could sell much better and I bet more people would jump on it.
What's that statement? - It takes 7 positive experiences from people to contrast 1 bad experience someone had?
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I'm getting the same thing occasionally... I just know that if I see the error that I shouldn't try to submit again, as it more than likely posted... Grr...
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Here's my Fuel Setup breakdown... as cheap as I can make it, while maintaining what I want... ugh... Now that's a chunk of change, and i got a really good hookup on all the AN fittings.
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you can make some out of home depot flat stock and just drill for bolts etc and make brackets for $15-20 or weld em up for about the same price
^ Exactly - I made brakets for all my installs of seats, Measure a Little, Bend a little, weld a little (20 bucks!) If you aren't confident welding, you can drill holes through them and bolt the flat stock together!
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Brad D's Laser cut hvac and gauge panel
in Interior
Posted
Here's the pic of the template, with modifications to make it work... It was essentially just widened on the bottom and new lines drawn....
Here's with Most of the Gauges and the Boost Controller... Just Missing Fuel Gauge and Wideband... which what the other holes are for....