clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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Did you see all that -ve camber on the rear tires, tires wouldn't last 1000 miles of street driving . A mean looking car !!
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Yes good recommendation about rust, the only people that actually like rust repair are the ones who gouge you to do it . Funny thing about budgets how they like to increase
. It sound like a very good project, for a good price . Are you going to do any mods to the motor ??
Are you familiar with the VG30ET ?? (hehe !!)
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Actually being that nice car you see is only half Walker's secret. He cut 12.7 in a 1/4 mile with a starion intercooler and a stock ZXT EFI with 370cc injectors . This is a true accomplishment if you understand how outdated the ZXT EFI is compared to the new systems .
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Frank 280z yes that 16x7 +12mm offset should fit, if you have lowered your car the tire may rub depending on the profile of the tire .
Mike I think TSW makes the +20mm offset, you might be able to sneak these on with coilovers, 265's might bulge too much . Most of the other brands are +40mm offset for those FWD cars .
Here is Walker Morgans Z, it kicks ass with 18x8.5 TSW Trophies .
http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/
look for his car under the links
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited August 24, 2000).]
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Oops I misunderstood, I thought it was carbon fiber hood . Having such a long hood I imagine some sort of bracing like small tubing outside the outer perimeter will be nessary . Good luck !!
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Great to see all the enthusiam, it would be great to see some new stuff for the Z . Spend alot of attention to your molds, it will pay off in the long run . I don't think alot of people know the actual cost of materials alone, I am guessing the materials for a hood alone would be $400 . I would like the center dash bezel for the vents, a nice racing touch .
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Wasn't the 280 rad more effecient than the 240 radiator . Not sure if they upgraded the rad for turbo model only . A good cleaning at a radiator shop will go a long way .
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Some chrome places do this some don't, mostly people don't do it because it is too cheap and the don't make cash from it . Mine looks better than original more gold tinge . It sure freshens things up .
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TSW is one of the few brnads that make the proper offset in the new style wheel . I always hear good things about yokohoma's or the cheaper kumko's, alot of the auto-X racers think there a good street tire .
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If you don't have acces to fancy powdercoating and don't want to spend alot of dough on chome . You can renew old gold colored pieces like fuel rail by zinc plating $30us can get most of the parts done and restores that factory fresh look .
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The crank and cam cover must be vented to the intake or atmosphere(messy) . Pressure builds in these and must be vented in order to increase performance . More than likely the PCV will be relocated on the manifold . A plug might do for now . What type of Air filter arrangment do you have on yours, I bought the universal 8" K&N and now I wish I bought something a little smaller, mine barely fits anywhere on my 280z with AC .
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I have a few minor bugs to work out my motor to get it running .
I am using the bigger T3/T04E turbo with adapter flange and it runs right into the PCV valve on the bottom side of the 76 intake manifold . I also have little money so I can't buy a SS hose for turbo oiling, I will probably get 1/4" copper line (3/16" hard to find) and use an 1/8" NPT adapters on the end .
A throttle body adapter and electric fan, and a minor distributor mod are all that stands between me and a running engine .
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Leave it to me Scott Hung not to pick the easy things, it will eventually be put into an 89 Pathfinder which means some things must be sorted out . First I have to get the other one going !!
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If I remember correctly the turbo sits right were the motor mount is normally on an N/A VG30 . I too have studied the VG30ET looking to throw one in place of the my N/A VG30ET . One possiblity is to find a good style manifold off of any different VG30 and blank the outlet off, and add a hole and flange to the side of it.
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Sounds like a good project Morgan, some places get a little nasty with manifold quotes . It does take alot of farting around .
http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm There is the page to give you some info !!
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited August 15, 2000).]
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Clint: Before getting a system talk with someone who has tuned one sucessfully . I have looked into the TEC II system in a fair bit of detail . Don't be fooled by that Air Fuel Ratio (that is quite misleading.) The TEC II is not a wide band O2 system .I will warn you right now TEC II software is three times as hard to program as the DFI . There are several people on zcar.com with TEC systems and it takes a long time to learn how to program one .
Clint: I will give you some tips on tuning the DFI, set closed loop up to about .8 bar the DFI will show you the correction . Apply correction to lower curve . This will show you that toque curve I talked about, then extrapolate the values for the rest of the chart but multiply extrapolated values by 14.7/12.5 to give a more power up top and safer running . Now it is just fine tuning the values with O2 sensor readings . As for spark timing, start off with stock mechanical and vacuum curves, straight accelration test will show you best settings for ignition . These proceedures are used one way or another on most narrow band O2 systems .
Originally posted by BLKMGK:Ya, I know my tables were screwy. When I got my DFI I had th elittle manual that comes with it and... zip. Yup, nothing nadda' and no help in sight. It actually ran pretty well at WOT but I suspect that things like the spark table were WAY off. I'd graph out the fuel table and tinker with it, datalog, and just plain go nuts trying to get it to run better.
Frankly - the DFI software didn't make things terribly easy. Some of the Electromotive stuff LOOKS easier - set a desired AF ratio and drive - it self tunes (to a point). Without some sort of wide band O2 it's also a real bitch to know what's going on - in that car you couldn't just swap out plugs for readings either (sigh). I finally got pretty frustrated with it - it drove pretty well but I knew there was power to be had left in it. Last diddled with it about 2 years ago when the car came off the road.
Clint: The software is easy, but the instructions could have way more detail on tuning . If it had instructions like the SDS, I am sure you would still be using the DFI .
As for the idle - brand new the injectors wouldn't idle. Same injectors with an EEC-IV - back to back - idled fine. Played with timing and most anything I could find - nope. About 6months before I gave up for a motor rebuild I DID get hold of an EEMIC (sp?) training manual - that helped some (shrug). I think a SpeedBrain may be more my speed for that car - starting with a stock baseline would be VERY nice.
Clint: Yes stock settings sre very helpfull,
read that EEMIC manual from Accel it will help you out tuning your new system . I will say this again go to sdsefi.com website and go to the tuning proceedures, you will need to know this for programming any EFI . If you haven't bought a new system and still have old DFI, I am sure I could tell you exactly how to tune your car with it . Would you be willing to give it another shot??
Some dyno time with a wide-band O2 sensor will get you almost dead on, and for $250 it's a bargain .
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BLKMGK you email me all your calmap stuff before, it was an incredible help . I am not trying to tick any one off, I am just trying to help !! It is easy to lead down the wrong path when tuning EFI, SDS has the best information of anywhere hands down . They make it simple and don't miss any steps .
I have learned lots of things from people that twin turbo big blocks to GN V6's . By the way the calmap startup is table is only meant to get the engine started .
Here is a fuel map from Tim78zt turbo car mddified for my 37lb injectors .
LOAD vs RPM vs Fuel Delivered
If you look at RPM vs Fuel you will notice that this generally follows the torque curve of an engine .
If you look at Load vs Fuel you will notice that it is generally a straight line .
This table was done on a dyno and has had lots of tuning done !!
Here is your fuel map that you were running current.all
As you can see the RPM vs Fuel doesn't follow torque curve . Generally this map should look simular to TIM's only shifted up or down depending on injector size . This chart just needs some more work !!
Some of the other setups for the fuel table had big dips and peaks in them, the car will not run smoothly .
Some very good info being posted by everyone [This message has been edited by clint78z (edited August 14, 2000).]
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Some very good comments, I would like to add to what you said
BLKMGK: As for the DFI - I know Duttweiler spends tons of time on it - I bought my system from him! His "base" map for my car had to be trimmed something like 40% before I could even drive it though. It was liek spraying for bugs on the way to my friend's house to get the laptop - I could hardly see out the back window it was so dense! DFI CAN work but I did NOT find it user friendly.
Clint: Well I don't really know why Duttweiler was so far off . I can't emphasize how important tuning process is . As far as userfriendliness I think it is pretty good, the only one that is easier is SDS . The 2 major tuning screens are fuel map and ignition . If you look in Electromotive it has like 4 different things just to set fuel, it is FRIGGIN CONFUSING !!
It's initial startup routine wasn't very helful in building a map. BTW - what software version have you got? I've got what I believe is a fairly recent version here... I sort of collect this sort of software to help me decide on a system. DFI hasn't even gone Windows based for their older system and I'm not sure it's even being updated anymore.
Clint:Well I have version 6.35 anc and anybody can test drive the software at www.whiteracing.com . My 386 laptop would suck with windows, so it is bitter sweet .
I had my car running 30lb injectors as low as I could witht he DFI and it still idled FAT. Any lower and it would stumble and hunt - ick! It was trying to take the time I'd given it (total injection time) and cut it in HALF to fire it twice! Run those SAME injectors with a sequential EEC-IV from Ford and it idled like a kitten. What can I say?
It could be a zillion different things, leaky injectors, running closed loop idle, low battery voltage . Tim78 runs 55lb injectors and has no idle problems, the car runs like a champ .
Datalogging with the DFI - how do you realisticly graph a .01 to say 1.0 O2 sensor reading against a range of 900 to 6000RPM powerband reading? Add to that the air temp range of say 60 degrees to maybe over 100. Don't forget ignition advance and boost level too. This is tough! I'm not a super whiz at Excel but this was just a bitch. Like I said - it was also not granular enough. If the motor revved real fast from say wheelspin you could sometimes see several hundred RPM between datalog points and O2 voltage could be all over the place.
IF you're going to use any ECU software DO make yourself a spreadsheet to show 100% duty cycle on the injectors, the DFI will let you program values higher than 100% (you don't realize it). Having a spreadsheet handy that let me see when I'd exceeded 100% sure was nice. You're not really supposed to go past 80% but... I was also not real sure on timing curves - I tried all sorts of stuff, a real shame the knock detector would go nuts from just revving the motor with no load. I didn't trust it one bit...
Clint: All very good comments, datalogging is very minimal and alot harder to do than other systems . The problem most people have in tuning is they try to program more than 1 thing at a time . They don't stablize a certain load point . In one afternoon a car can be tuned to give a half decent driving vehicle vehicle . Start with a flat fuel table shift it up or down, (more gas total or less gas total). Then tilt it (more gas or less gas as you load the motor down) . Next tilt the curve the other way (more or less gas as rpm increases ) . Then you can then begin smoothing the table . Most people miss these basic steps and start pulling individual points up and down . Think of tuning like sculpting, start with a block cut basic dimensions out, then begin going into more and more detail as you go along .
Electromotive's software will show you graphs of EVERYTHING you logged on one screen with a marker displaying where you're at. As you move the marker it jumps on all of the graphs and displays real numbers on the screen for each graph as well. Very nice. Hrm, I also found that the DFI wouldn't let me log enough inputs. I don't mean to hammer that system too much but understand it's the one system I'm intimatly familier with - live with any of them and you'll find issues - I promise!
Clint: Electramotive has awsome datalogging, I wish DFI had this, but alot of people have all this info and don't know what to do with it . DFI has little info but settings are easier to understand . For example you are
too rich at a certain point, the DFI has to change the point in the fuel table . In electramotive what do you have to change Intial Offset Time ?? Raw Fuel Curve?? VE?? One affects the other, I find this a pain and hard to get my head around . Many sucessful SDS systems were tuned with no datalogging features, and far less tunability than the DFI .
I've DL'ed the demo software for the SpeedProFelPro system and intend to look at it. I thought FelPro was offering intakes with their stuff - apparently not, bummer. Some of the Electromotive intakes look nice, maybe one of those with a FelPro ECU? I'd really like MAF though but it's either not available or a pricey addition to most systems (sigh). I may wind up going Electromotive myself but it'll be bux and I'll have to find a good tuner locally. Thankfully I've got a friend who used to work for Peter Farrell's RX7 shop who knows the system inside and out - he just doesn't know V8s is all. I'll ask him what he thinks of it and what the Electromotive's downsides are and report back - may be awhile tho'.
Clint: Yes the best way is find a shop that can install & tune your system properly . A $7000 Motec system can run like garbage if tuned incorrectly . Many people don't need all the fancy options thatcost $1000-$5000 more .
PS I hope I didn't scare anyone here about EFI, a good shop will tune you system so all you have to do is drive!!
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited August 14, 2000).]
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Well I don't imagine the low off boost torque won't suffer all that badly compared to the old L28 . The compression dropped a full point . I personally thought the motor had decent low end torque (no V8) . It will hopefulley have a little more jam down low than my brothers DSM . I guess pick a motor that suites you, more importantly your budget .
I should offer to store Jame's spare parts in my car .
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I think it is simular to VG30et in z31 but it has DOHC and a couple of other tricks up it's sleeve . I think a ceramic blade was used in turbo to reduce rotational mass .
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I always liked how you gave people your honest opinion everything . I would like to know how the 3.8l compares to the old L28ET, obviously it has greater HP potential and better low end torque from displacement . Can you give a comparison, sound, smoothness, overall impressions of the 2 motors .
It is hard to get a good comparision, most of time it is Chev sux, or Nissan is a wuss motor . You having owned so many different vehicles porsche, talon, V8 .
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Now I don't want to step on any toes here, but I have found when one of these systems were blamed that it ran bad usually there is another problem other than the ECU itself . I am going to stick up for the DFI a bit here having bought one . It does lack some options compared to other ECU's . I will tell you some of the limitations .
Datalogging is a real pain you have to be good with a spreadsheet to get any value out of it, I made an excel program to help this out .
If you want coilpacks the ECU has to be programmed.
Sequential EFI is hard to do, I think this is not nessaery in most cases .
John Ligenfelter has been tuning his stroker 383's with DFI for a years and run amazing, and you can't dispute the power .
Just about any system will be 100 times better than a carb for driveablitly than a carb "IF TUNED CORRECTLY" Excellent warmup, better gas milage, improved part throttle .
One thing that might be a problem is a high overlap cam, which give low vacuum readings which make idle suffer . In this case the system is tuned with the TPS sensor, MAP sensor is not used .
Mabey I will change my tune when I start my motor up in a month . Accel DFI can be bought used, I got mine for $450 with software . You can even build you own sheetmetal manifold .
Take your time on this one and do some reasearch . Personally I don't think you can go wrong with any of these systems . Some are just better value, others have fancy tricks .
Electramotive TEC II software is top notch but very confusing to learn how to tune it .
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Dang I like all these smiley faces, it makes it fun to post . I have reasearched EFI quite a bit, and know chevy efi quite well also .
I would say that port injection is minimum for your setup, injector upgrades are a snap and better manifold design than a TBI conversion .
All things aside I think ease of tuning is probably one of the most important features . The Accel DFI is fairly easy to tune and has all the basic features you will need . It could stand an update on dataloging and a few trick but overall very good . The high performance chev guys do this again and again .
SDS is even simpler to tune and they have probably the best support, you will miss some fine tuning ability on the fuel maps but overall a good system, no dataloging .
Haltech is another worth mention kind of like the DFI for features on software is much nicer .
Get as much info before purchase, instructiions, opinions .
Mass Airflow vs Speed Density
Speed density is cheaper but as soon as you modify one thing the fuel maps must be changed . This is bad on a non programmable ECU, car runs like crap with new cam . The MAF can compensate because it knows the actual air flow .
Head to sdsefi.com for tons of information about efi .
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Well the headers Scottie showed were from Rebello racing, I think there is a method to his madness . One thing to keep in mind is to keep lengths short, to retain heat this allows the turbo to work better . When welding on a flange warpage is a pain in the butt . Check out SDSEFI.com website it has how to do this project in more detail . Good luck !!
Maxima Brackets
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
What years can I get Maxima brackets for rear disc conversion . There are like 6 of these showed up in the junkyard . I intend to get all I can, then give them to people for the price I pay .