clint78z
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Posts posted by clint78z
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I would like to you to exhibit A, a fine exmaple what a well tuned turbo motor is compared to a stock 280Z .
Now I don't see to many spots where it is more gutless than the N/A motor .
Bob Hanvey from zhome an authority on the subject expects his motor to put out 190 at the wheels from 3.1L stroker . I would recommend reading Bob's article you think a stroker is the way to go .
Turbo lag is almost a non issue in a well setup turbo car . Superchargers do have a little more initial throttle response, but as you start upping the boost effeciency drops off . The new centrifugal superchargers are much more effecient .
Good luck !!
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited October 31, 2000).]
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You got it Drax the viscous does not wear like the clutch, the clutch when new is superior because it does not require wheel spin to lock both wheels .
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Hey guys having a bit of trouble understanding the Chev wiring for my Accel DFI . It has a 5 wire injector it is broken down like this 2 banks A hi/lo B hi/lo and a 12+ve switched wire . I hooked my injectors up to the hi/lo ones but I can't figure what the power wire is for ??
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Hmm seems like you are going through the possibilties in a systematic order good . Before replacing anything do everything besides . Get a multimeter check for a proper 12v at the coil wiggle connectors and wire checking for shorts . Check for a proper ground . Pull cap off dizzy and inspect to see nothing has come loose inside or looks suspect . Look for burn marks in the cap and rotor from spark scatter . Check module with multimeter it should give an off and on signal . I fthis is ok go to the fuel system, put in a new fuel filter . Then get a fuel pressure guage and check for sufficent pump pressure . Next I would turn to that Holley . Start easy and work to hard !!
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I don't know if it was my inaccurate or out dated article . I wrote it for my 280z and it probably should be revised later . This was done back in the time when the vast majority told me it could not be done . Can you guys help me revise it for the 240z and clean it up ?? I can then just send it to hybridz.org tech articles .
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If you are really intrested about a 3.1 and want big HP talk to Hoover he is selling a Rebello 3.1 . I am pretty sure this one is et up for a turbo application . With the right turbo and engine managment 450-500hp at the flywheel can be obtained . There are a rare few that can push 250 hp out of a 3.0l, half of those are not street drivable . A turbo 2.8 pushing 250hp will be way better on the street than a 3.1l pushing 250hp .
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Motorsport actually told you that what liars . Although it may beat some 300hp cars it will put out 210-220max at the wheels if build buy a good shop . You will get a jump in HP from the kit, go from about 130hp at wheels to 190hp at wheels with the kit . I am partial to the 2.8 turbo, but the V8 option can't be ignored .
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Wow that's awsome, I was looking for an alternative to the Gtech Pro and the road dyno looks like it . This will be I will split one with my brother for his Talon TSI .
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There is a new type of performance meter that is a little more sophisticated than the Gtech .
http://autospeed.com/C_articles/A_0703/P_1/article.html For those who do alot of street tuning this could be invaluable.
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I would suspect that Holley myself, I have always found that the needle valves stick quite a bit . Never let a Holley sit over the winter, the seals dry up and need rebuilding often .
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Doesn't the VQ35DE have the same bolt hole as the VG30-33 . You might be lucky nissan may gone with the same tranny when they went with the pathfinder . If so you could possibly bolt on a Z31 turbo tranny It would probably be best to use OEM computer since it has VVT and I am not sure how the stage intake is controlled .
Install problems should be minimal but cost will be the big issue . There are engines with more power but this one I really like the range of power .
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I will probably be purchasing my brake package for you in the future . It looks like a few people are leaning towards 5 bolt for better rim selection . Those are some good options at a decent price . How do the HPS pads compare to the KVR's ??
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited October 23, 2000).]
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Some really good points, I didn't know the Spearco had internal fins. Morgan raised some good points . I see alot of nasty end tanks on some good cores, something that should not be overlooked .
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Umm I am not sure what you are driving at, I could be misinterperting what you are saying . I design boilers and heat exchangers are part of my design .
Surface area is one of the major keys to heat exchange as well as the temperature difference . The amount of airflow will be constant car to car . The fin design plays a role in effeciency . The end tanks are a big part of the design, there job is to equally distribute air between tubes and minumize the frictional losses .
The reasons why a big intercooler is good is that
a) it provides more surface area for heat exchange
due to it mass it provides a bigger heat sink it stays cooler longerc) by stacking more tubes you are putting less air though one tube, therefore the air does not travel as fast through the intercooler . This maximizes the time the air is in the intercooler and allows more time to cool off .
The airflow over the fins will stay constant at the same MPH and will be the same no matter what intercooler you put it .
I would like to dicuss this further if others are intrested .
quote:
Originally posted by Morgan:It can't act as a heat sink if the core is so large that heat transfer is reduced....If the core is too large then the compressed air slows down so much that the internal fins can't mix the air adequately and efficiency falls through the floor. Size alone is the absolute worst physical charasteristic you can judge an intercooler by.
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited October 20, 2000).]
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Don't forget one thing in short blasts like in town driving, stop light wars the bigger the better . With little air flow the intercooler acts like a heatsink, the bigger it is the more heat it can absorb . I think the powerstroke is a good option and I looked at one before . I think the Isuzu NPR is a good unit as well .
Thing I look for when looking for an intercooler .
a) size
end tank design that allow a good transition and feeds all tubes equally .Both the powerstroke and the NPR would be a good value .
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Owen I have talked to Adris a bit too he helped me out with a DFI wiring diagram . He has some major hardware but needs some major tuning accorfing to his 1/4 mile times . I like the budget and documentation of his project .
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I don't know if Walker gave you the entire listing of what was done to the car . I followed his project very closely . That's not the first motor he cooked either . I would recommend getting a proper aftermarket EFI . This will make things alot safer, hopefulley won't blow any more motors .
Tell us how he got those 17X9 rims on the car all of us are curious . Good purchase, Walker did some slick mods to his car .
Here is everything I saved on his old your new car !!
My car is a 1977 Z-car. It has a L28ET motor in it with 118,000+
miles. The engine has never been torn down and has only had the
head off to fix the stock head gasket. It has run mid 12's @
better than 113mph for sometime now. I have a T4 turbonetics
turbocharger, an MSD ignition(6-A), a three inch down pipe, a Bell
Eng. boost dependent fuel pressure regulator, a large fuel pump one
can aquire from Autozone(here is the part# E8248), K&N filter that
draws cool air from under the car, and an intercooler from an 87'
conquest(the intercooler from the 88'-89' offers a slightly more
eficient core). I can easily run 17PSI on pump gas without fear of
detonation. Total mods to the engine are under 1,100$ partially
due to the fact that the turbo only cost me 450$ I drive the car
everyday and have put 20,000 miles on it in the last 11mos.
Hey Boost,
You know a guy named Paul S? Has a 78 ZXT black w/ white stripes?
Think he has pretty much the same setup you do. I know I rode in his
car and felt how 17lbs of boost with no detonation feels.
Question, I also have the BEG pressure requlator. How did you set
yours up? What fuel pressure do you have dialed in as a baseline
(with vacuum hose off) What's the maximum pressure you have it
adjusted for?
I have the same Auto Zone fuel pump with stock turbo injectors. Using
a Volvo intercooler Ira sold me but thinking about switching to a
Conquest unit.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave how do you know Paul? Thats pretty cool... it's a small world
after all. My BEG unit runs in conjunction with the stock fuel
press. reg. It has a baseline of 32PSI and will go up to 50PSI. The
BEG unit was set from Bell to come on line around 9PSI of boost.
Fuel pressure will rise from the highest stock setting of 50PSI to
around 85-90PSI for 17PSI. The adjustment on the BEG unit is turned
all the way in and then backed out 3/4 of a full turn. This should
give you similar fuel pressure. As for the intercooler Ira has
another conquest one and it is in sweet shape.
> Clint the part # Dave gave you is correct. It is a pump for either a Ford 460 or a Chevy 454...can't remember. Anyhooo the pump is fairly good but the important thing is that you get a fuel pressure regulator from Bell. The stock injectors can only feed about 11-12psi of boost without the added fuel of the Bell unit. If you are not intercooled then don't worry about the Bell unit. If you have the intercooler than you can run 17psi with the bell unit for enrichment. Make sure to test the fuel pump when you get it by hooking up a f.p. gauge. This is especially important with the Bell unit because the unit increases the fuel press. under boost. If under condition of greater fuel pressure than stock ie..60-80psi the unit should hold a constant rate. This means that It should not spike and then fall back to stock levels ie..55psi. If it does this than the pump is bad. We have run into a couple that would not produce enough pressure and hold it. The pump should easily sustaine 90psi. A good pump is quite adequate. The Autozone pump is feeding my mid twelve sec Z.
The part number is E8248. Not sure what application it is designed for they had to order mine. Got it about two years ago for around $100.00. Has a lifetime warranty. I wish I knew more about the technical side of it (flow per hour, that sort of stuff). I installed it in the stock location, and had to run new wire to power it. It stays on constantly while the motor is running, the factory fuel pump wiring will not work. The reason I bought it was another guy I knew with the same set up as BOOST was using it to put his 280 into the high 12's also. E-mail me if you would like the number of the shop that recommeded it to me, they probably know more of the specifics of it. Or if BOOST is still around he can probably give you a more detailed answer.
I recently broke an engine! The engine I have, or should I say car I have is/was basically a Whore. I will elaborate. I know 5 of the last owners in the last 5 years. Some of them never had a clue what detonation was, and I will admit I have detonated the stew out of the thing. Anyway I t finally took a toll on the old engine. It had 146,000 miles on it and the stress of being my car finally took its toll. 18psi one night coming home from work resulted in one of the loudest rod knocks I have ever heard. I spun a bearing. I think possibly that all the abuse this motor had endured, being a whore for so long, ended its life. I didn't detonate the thing that night but for weeks on start up I heard what sounded like a rod knocking. Didn't want to believe it but it was obviously true. Don't worry I have complete faith in these motors. Bought another 100,000 mile motor. Checked all the bearings and the were SWEET! Put it in the car and it kicks much booty. My friend Steve has 240+,000 miles on his and the only thing it knows is racing. I have broken rearends, not like broken in pieces(JIM) but were they were making horrindus noises. Have broken one early style transmission. Got an 83 n/a tranny and no problems in a year. I put a hurting on 2 clutches as well. I think that is all I have broken besides my wallet on occasion. I though Jim's set up was sweet but much to complex for me and even though he did beat me (my car was down 5-7mph at the end of the track that weekend) he should have mopped the floor with me based on the dollar figure he spent. He didn't. I think there was more tuning to be done to his car to his defense though. I liked how adjustable his system was but since I don't have the money for extensive dyno time, and that is what it would take, I will just see how far I can push this factory Set up. Later
Clint, I simply pulled the black cover off the side of the afm and loosened the set screw that holds spring tension on the door being sure to first mark the stock location. I then cranked up the spring tension by turning the plastic gear. It took a couple of tries to get it right but know the car pulls from idle to redline without being overly rich anywhere in the RPM range. I had to adjust the idle cicuit to get the idle right which is simply turning a screw on the outside of the afm. The Nissan service manual shows how to do this. I got the 370cc/min injectors from a Merkur XR4TI we had at the shop. RC engineering told me that they were the same impedence as my stock injectors and what the flow rate was. It has been a while since I did this so I can't tell you exactly how many teeth to tighten the spring to. If I get a chance I will open the thing back up and count it for you. I will say though that is almost a full turn from the stock point. The beauty of this is that I no longer have to use the Bell f.p.r. I just use the stock f.p.r. which gives a max of 52psi fuel pressure. Stock injectors do not like the 90psi needed to run big boost. One other thing I you are planning on getting the Bell i/c like I did...27"x10"x3" air density will be so much greater that the stock injectors will max out at 12psi@90psi fuel press. With a Starion unit I used to be able to run 17psi. Because of the diff. in inlet temp. the air is denser(more O2 per sq.in.). So what I am saying is the larger injectors are a must with such A large i/c. Oh yeah I tried to make 420cc/min work but they were not cooperating. With the 370's I have enough fuel for over 400hp so whith only 355hp I am safely within my fuel limits . Hope this helps.
Jason there is a slight mod ification to the injectors. The Merkur injector is designed for a push on style fuel rail. In order for this to work with your Nissan set up you must pull off the o-ring and trim the plastic that surrounds the inlet for the fuel. When I say trim I mean completely off where only the underlying metal inlet is exposed. It will not look like the factory injector end. Don't worry. 5/16" fuel hose will slip over it and once a clamp is tighened down on it it will not leak. Make sure there is at least 3/8"-1/2" of metal showing or it could be a problem. As for the manifold, Take out the factory o- rings as these will not be the proper size. The o-ring that on the injector will, with a little WD-40, insert in to give a tight seal. I used injectors that came right off a car. It is possible that new injectors may not come with the o-rings. Do not worry they can be purchased from Napa. Later.
I took a throttle body from a 240sx=60mm(stock is 50mm). I gained 11hp@16psi. The grand total now is 362hp@6,000rpm @ 16psi of boost. I will probably turn up the boost to 18psi next time. The most I have made at that boost level is 355hp. Last time 16psi netted me 351hp. This was dissapointing since 2 more psi should have been worth more than 4hp. This proved to me there was a bottle neck somewhere so I started by opening up the intake. I hope my air flow meter will make it to 375hp. I will let y'all know.
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The MR2 project was in quite a few issues, the were shooting for +400hp at the crank . It had alot of what worked and what didn't and all the little problems they ran into . They started with basic upgrades then finally ended up with a boost referenced FPR and they showed how to utne that as well . It had alot of general tuning info . Another excellent maagzine I got was HOT ROD/ CAR CRAFT, and others put all the EFI info into one issue . I will try and dig them out of the tickle trunk for you .
Go to the Accel DFI website and tell them you have a DFI and want an EMIC training manual . This has lots of good info on EFI in general . They sent me it free !! The Accel tuning is alot like SDS as far as tuning is concerned .
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I quite enjoyed there articles on the MR2 project, the SDS is way easier to tune than that . It never hurts to learn other things, if you figure out a system like the TEC II you will see all the extra features . It does have alot of nice features, but the features are not in most peoples budget . First tuning article I have seen on the Tec II, it makes me mad that this type of info is not in the TEC II manual .
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For all you guy thinking of EFI more specifically how to tune the Electramotive Tec-II . Sport Compact Car has not written another floof article, you really have have your thinking cap on . If you sit down and understand it some of the proceedures can be applied to other EFI systems . I will probably talk a bit more on this one .
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Do you have a fairly lumpy cam in it, the reason why I ask is that you may have a problem tuning the setup with EFI . EFI is heavily dependant on vacuum, so EFI cams must be alot milder . One thing to watch for !!
Your intial tuning will take alot longer, and you will probably pull your hair with EFI . End result good gas milage, increased throttle response, runs flawless .
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Thanks SCCA, it was me that was worried about harshness . Streets here are a bit rough, I wanted to maintain a decent ride . I figured that a progressive rate spring and maintain stock isolators .
If there is no big difference in harshness between camber plates and coilovers to eibachs . I will just do the full upgrade at once . The price of coilovers has sure droppped in the last while .
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Yes you are right pparaska, I forgot to take into account wire size 7" of coil not 7" travel . My bad !!
Ross what does the spherical bearing setup look like, does it use any type of rubber mounting to isolate road roise . The raer springs should be stiffer than the fronts right?
I wonder how Walker Morgan did his 17X9's he did not mention coilovers to me
[This message has been edited by clint78z (edited September 28, 2000).]
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Blkmgk this is an awsome Ford site
due to it mass it provides a bigger heat sink it stays cooler longer
3.1l 280zx..
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
Pete not to beat a dead horse here, my brother also own a 1990 talson TSI AWD and it does have what alot of people percieve as a ton of lag . I would like to take the negative and mystery from lag .
Compare you dsm to the N/A version of 2.0L, if you were to test each side by side, theN/A vesrion is just gutless all the time . In most cases in driving the turbo car will have quicker response in all most every driving situation than it's N/A counterpart .
Corky Bell says it best in his book no lag means no doubling your power .
I really don't think alot of what Steve did was nessary to get 300hp at the wheels . Scottie was creeping to that point with his stock turbo car . Many of the old turbo cars are just plain worn out and badly out of tune . If you search under zcar.com archives you will see my name pop up many times .
I would very much like to own one of the strokers or supercharged american iron .