70 Cam Guy

The radiator didn't have any mounting provisions so we made tabs and cradles for underneath. This photo was final placement, but not final mounting by AYates Photos, on Flickr

I basically got creative with the big water line under the intake manifold. I cut off, sectioned, and pieced it back together (TIG'ed) turned around to face the small outlet on the manifold's water neck. I wanted as little flex line as possible to maximize its reliability Speaking of reliability, I've already driven to Long Beach and back for JCCS, and to Buttonwillow, flogged it on the track all day, and drove home. It still needs some fine tuning in the AFR's but I've never worried about the reliability by AYates Photos, on Flickr by AYates Photos, on Flickr

I had them cut mine to 17" so it wouldn't hang below the core support. They angled the upper neck for free since it was 1 piece of tube. That radiator was $300 shipped to my door. Easily a great deal. My friend TIG'ed the mounting tabs on the radiator and bolted it in (isolated). There are a couple cradles welded in at the bottom to support the core. I bought the lowest profile 16" Spal fan that I could find. It barely fits because of my engine placement. In August heat it does climb in traffic but once the fan comes on, it cools right down. This was August heat in the bay area. I highly recommend the guys at PRC. They warn of a hefty lead time when you phone in but mine was shipped in 3 days and everything is made to order! If I recall, 24x19 double pass GM radiator was 220, cutting the height was $40, and total with shipping came in right at or under 300.

Hey 656delta, glad this was able to help someone! It's been a while since my last update. The fuel lines were redone back in September. The Bosch 044 fuel pump moved so much fuel we were seeing pressure in the return line. I bought a smaller pump for, I think, an E30 BMW. A new feed line is in and the old feed line is now my return. Also dumped the Nismo thermostat for an OEM Nissan thermostat. The engine warms up normally now, and runs much smoother. Also the track day in November, the engine never heated up past half way until the afternoon. It never really got hot, ran great. Also installed an R180 LSD with 4.88s. I have never heard of this gear set but the diff was pulled from a Rebello built 510 in the late 80s / early 90s. It is pretty extreme, but it seems to be a great match for the lower torque rb20. 3500-3800 rpm on the freeway, very smooth, and the boost is right there when I want it. At the same time I installed an RT style diff mount to keep that diff in place. The driveline feels great, no slop at all.

A quick update. The car is back in my possession and it's a great feeling! It has some quirks to work out but it's running strong and smoothly. I'm waiting for the novelty of playing with the blow off to wear off so I can keep out of trouble An Innovate wide band is now installed to help keep track of the AFR's and adjust the AFC NEO as needed. We also need to adjust the wastegate actuator, it's now an HKS actuator on the turbo and it's only boosting 9-10 psi. The actuator itself is the 12 psi unit for the S15 turbo so I just need to shorten the actuator rod. The tuner from GarageBOSO was up in the bay this week so their dyno was set up. In the evening they put my car up for a baseline, and to help set the actuator. They did two pulls before the guy in the office got worried about the law The car, as is, pulled 216 hp at the wheels. I'm planning on running 14 pounds so it looks like there's plenty of room to grow. I'm really happy with this as a starting point

Looks great!! I'm liking the photographer's style too. If you happen to use him again, or have friends into photos, see if they'll do a rolling photo. You'll never want to sell it then

hey Preston, sorry I don't have pics of the mount brackets off the car. They really are only slotted to line up with the Volvo mounts. The lower profile mounts dropped the engine enough so it doesn't look strange, and we were concerned of the hood closing. Also, if the engine were to move further back, the original driveshaft would not work. We tried to keep it as simple as possible

Yeah I'm getting pretty anxious. The new turbo oil/water fittings arrived last week and the wideband should arrive tomorrow. I can't wait to try it with the new turbo

I like Raw Brokerage but I've also bought some used stuff from this place on their ebay auctions. http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/ They can't be too far away, still in New Jersey

Looks great! It's going to look as good as it is fast

Thanks! I wasn't sure if it was going to work but I wanted to try so I could keep a working odometer. I drove it to put some gas in it (and then back to the shop), and the speedo is working nicely. Sometimes we surprise ourselves To answer your question, I am using the same driveshaft I had on the car with the ZX 5-speed. It slid right into the RB20 transmission. The engine looks like it sits a little forward but it's really not bad. Part of the appeal was the fact that the stock driveshaft would still work.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, history and advice Knowing the OE solution to sensor replacement is great!! I did end up ordering the XD-16 gauge with LC-1 controller. I will be sure to mount it, and wire things correctly. As my RB swap evolves, I see a greater need to know where my air fuel ratios are through the rpm range. Next to the boost gauge, it definitely is a must have at this point.

Thanks everyone! A quick update, today I got the speedo figured out. I removed the speedo module from the ZX 5-speed and put my yellow gear on the module for my stock rear end. I installed it in the RB transmission and it clearly wasn't mating to the drive gear because of the smaller speedo gear diameter, so I rotated the module until it contacted the drive gear. I could tell because I couldn't spin the speedo plug anymore. I marked the module with a sharpie and removed it. Using a hack saw, I made a new notch/landing for the speedo module toe clamp. I buttoned everything thing back up and gave it a try on the jacks, and I have a working stock speedo!! All in all, it didn't take too long. There was probably more time into thinking about how to make it work and what the best tool would be to notch the module. The speedo gear is off center in the module so it is like a bolt with an eccentric in a way. The oil feed line came yesterday and fitting today so the turbo should be installed very soon. I'm optimistic but hope there's no more ZZZzzzzzz ZZzzzzzz noise from the CHRA bearings

I have been looking at Innovate wideband kits online tonight and on youtube. This is more of a personal preference type of question but is anyone annoyed waiting for the sensor heater to warm up? In the videos it doesn't seem a whole lot longer than it takes for the fuel pump to cycle but it's definitely a blocker to the simple key-in and go pace. Do all widebands go through a warming cycle like the Innovate? It seems like many run them but are these not really meant to stay on the car once the tuning is done? It seems like it should be no problem to keep it installed but I wasn't sure.

I believe you are correct in your concerns about the turbo but it also may be related to over boosting. I know the stock RB25 turbos run well on the 20's. People on SAU say 10-12 psi is about it for the 25 turbo on a RB25. On the 20, guys will still run 1 bar and make good power. If the turbo is in good shape and that's all the engine needs, I'd run it until you're ready to upgrade. It's not too hard pull off the turbo&manifold if/when you get another. I'm not sure what kind of power you're looking for though

Not sure if this media tag will work but I tried out a free camera we got at work tonight. In the video you can hear me telling my friend to rev the engine. Lol I wanted to see if the mic was going to break up at the volume. Anyway, we think the stalling problem is solved but still need to swap out the turbos. We recalibrated the TPS in the AFC NEO and set the DEC AIR function. We are thinking it helped the atmospheric blow off issue, and is helping with the turbulence with the MAF sensor. You can hear the dreadful vacuum noise from the turbo as it spins down in a couple spots. Sorry about the 1 speaker audio, I couldn't figure out how to change it to mono audio.

The postman left a present for me Saturday

I don't know man, I think this is the stock turbo from an S2 RB25 http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j232/rayaapp2/RB25det%20stuff%20for%20sale/WP_000364.jpg Those are supposed to be the hot ticket for stock RB turbos. They have the nylon compressor wheel, spool faster, and perform better than the S1 RB25 turbos. Mine is an Series 1, the blades look slightly different. From what I understand, they are still limited on boost because of the ceramic wheels but they produce noticeably higher power on RB20's that swap to the S1 vs S2 RB25 turbo.

Per Pat's suggestions, I tried Mazda 3 exh studs and they are a little bit shorter but they worked. I've also heard 7M (toyota) exhaust studs work but I haven't looked into it. Either of those HAVE to be cheaper than the ARP kit, especially if you don't need ARP.

Hell yeah it'll be great to meet everyone. It'll be cool if your car is still running, triple carbs have to make an appearance at any Z meet. The Toyota guys run anything from carb to modern EFI engines. A couple of the guys have S2000 swaps. Pretty cool actually because they still sound like an angry Toyota engine running.