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Everything posted by 70 Cam Guy
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260Z + RB25DET S2 motor = badazz 260ZR and some ?'s
70 Cam Guy replied to rayaapp2's topic in Nissan RB Forum
I'll tell you what my machine shop told me. They would have needed to make a jig to surface it because of the way the valve cover sealing surfaces are angled. If you got the MLS head gasket, they made need to surface it so the finish is appropriate for it. If you have a shop you know has already worked on RB's then you might be ok. I've heard differing opinions on MLS gaskets needing the correct surface finish on the block and head -
I hadn't even thought about that but I think he was talking about testing the relays they installed. I've had the diode plug from MSA for a while now. The internal regulated alternator has been on the L24 for over a year now. I'll mention it though, maybe it's a simple case of overlooking it.
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Wow came out great!!
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260Z + RB25DET S2 motor = badazz 260ZR and some ?'s
70 Cam Guy replied to rayaapp2's topic in Nissan RB Forum
Nice, I call that flat surface syndrome. It's ok because you at least have everything on a big towel or fender cover. Was your turbo rebuilt stock or did they install steel wheels? A lot of guys down under get theirs high flowed for easy install When I tore down my RB20's head, I gave it to a machine shop to install my valve stem seals. They pressure tested and boiled the whole head. It came out nicely and I think only charged a couple hours for everything. -
Definitely we'll have to meet up. I heard the 1stGenCelica guys are starting to get a local meet going in Concord at the Seafood City. They had one last night and I believe are shooting for the 1st Friday each month. If it's on, it would be cool to get a few Z's out there I probably have seen your Z. I have been waved at a couple times by guys in newer ones. S30's get a good amount of attention from all types of people. I talked to the wiring guru at the shop today. He's been chasing down a power feedback issue that keeps the engine running when attempting to shut it off. He's been working on a couple projects for them, a megasquirt harness for an AE86, and a 4AGZE swap into an old liftback Celica, so he's been juggling a bit.
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A quick update on the car, the guys have been busy and have been doing some wiring changes. It's not stalling anymore but I think there's a feedback issue with something. I didn't get a chance to talk much about it tonight Also, I was a little concerned about the state of my turbo. There's been a persistent noise since we first started it, like it wasn't getting oil or something. It got a little better since starting it but it's still there. We know for certain it's getting oil but it still sounds like a dry bearing is rolling around in the thing. It's most prominent when the turbo spins down. As a result of the noise, and the extreme desire to find one, I jumped on an ebay auction today and won a single HKS GT2530 turbo. I've been watching almost 3 months now for one to come along! In the pictures you can see it has the Skyline exhaust housing, which means it's T3 to the manifold and a 6-bolt exhaust. I can't wait to see it and install it. My track record for used turbos has not been good so far, so I've got my fingers crossed that it's a good one. These are supposed to be great turbos for the RB20's based on everything I've seen on Skylines Australia.
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Thanks! And just to be official, I double checked the Summit order and was reminded the Lokar cable started as 48"
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whoa! That's some real power out of the 2 liter!
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Sweet fuel cell! If I recall, the fuel pressure is closer to 3 bar (43-44psi). For my fuel rail, I have the Tomei adapter from FRSport. I bought it with the 90 degree elbow and barb but there's an AN fitting too. http://www.frsport.com/Fuel-Pressure-Regulator_c_113.html rail adapter - http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-185106-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Adapter-Nissan-Subaru-Toyota_p_16572.html -6 AN - http://www.frsport.com/Tomei-185105-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Fitting-1-8-NPT-AN6_p_16585.html
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I really only got to drive it briefly but it seems like a great turbo. On the first drive, the hallman mbc was set high and was boosting at 14psi steady. The ECU just wasn't having that so I backed it off completely to run base boost (10psi). It suddenly came alive. A little sluggish below 3000 rpm but was hitting full boost by around 3500 and really scooted to redline. Once all the little bugs are sorted, I'll turn it back up to 13-14 psi and tune with the wideband. It's an easy upgrade from the stock turbo, you can't beat it for the price. I may eventually call ATP to see what they charge for a rebuild with steel wheels. Thanks for the tip on the reflash, I'll definitely give them a call next week. I love the monitor features, we're mounting it on the steering column shroud so I can take advantage of that.
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Whoa quick reply! Thanks I'll have to look into it. I'm pretty sure it's nowhere near 12 inches I'm running an hks bov venting atmospheric. The Apexi AFC NEO unit has a deceleration air feature ("Dec Air") that lets you compensate for the atmospheric bov. Part of the problem is we haven't been able to set it yet because the unit isn't reading air flow for some reason. It's still a bit of a mystery. They had an SR with this problem before and it turned out to just be a bad MAF but I know the RB's will stall out with the atmospheric bov. Just have to mess with it some more
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Thanks Jake, I'm really happy how it's turning out. I'm already getting people asking me why I didn't go for a 25 or 26 It's cool though, it's got plenty of power for me and sounds nasty with that exhaust
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Thanks, it's really not far from the turbo inlet. I think it's basically a coupler between the MAF and turbo because of the space constraints. Is there a recommended distance or rule of thumb for that? It idles fine when you start it. It just wants to stall as the engine falls back to idle
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Quick update, the car is running! We need to figure out a couple things. The ECU I ordered on ebay arrived surprisingly fast from Japan and it was a good ECU. The one major kink is the engine stalls after revving it up in neutral (not even on boost), or when coming to a stop. We need to figure out if it's wiring or the MAF causing the problem. We discovered something funny when trying to set up the Dec Air feature on the AFC, we weren't seeing any air flow signal. The idle bypass was cleaned to be sure it wasn't plugged. On base boost (10 psi) this thing is big time fun. Add 90-100 horsepower over the L24 at the wheels and it will feel like it hauls ass! Once the idle issue is sorted, I'll probably run 13 pounds and tune AFRs with the AFC The straight pipe is not nearly as loud as I thought it might be, which is ok with me. There's a tiny bit of lag but boost builds fast with the stock rb25 turbo. I'm getting really anxious to drive, and hear the car again. Anyway, here's the latest photos. You can see the heat shield for the MAF, and kinda see the heat shield for the brake lines.
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Nice numbers! I can't imagine what a Z with that much power is like, must be a beast!
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I've been quietly watching this build as well. It's shaping up to be a clean build. Honestly I usually notice a clean build and appreciate the work more than a rushed big power build. The sound and power of the RB will keep you up at night thinking about it You will love it.
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I'll certainly do my best
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Ok time for a real update.... I'm in escrow!! I'm waiting on a new/used ECU from a Japanese ebay seller. It should be here next week sometime so we can take out the ECU from the 25 and see how it REALLY runs. The AFC Neo is installed and the boost gauge now resides where the clock was. The AFC will be mounted on the steering column cover so I can easily see the tach, and the other monitors I chose to show. It sounds beastly with the straight pipe! I got a J-pipe from Summit and a Magnaflow tip for the rear of the exhaust. I bought a stack of flanges from Summit a while back so I could run straight pipe or put my muffler back on. here's the old muffler with stainless tip I welded on and discolored myself with the rose bud. The exhaust is well tucked so I think I gained some ground clearance! The tip is a Magnaflow polished stainless. It's 18" long and goes 2.5" to 3". The angle cut was advertised at 15 degrees. We went for the JDM angle a little bit
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Agreed, between HybridZ and SAU, I found tons of information on the RB20. I know I've run across talk about making a +T but didn't look at it much since it didn't pertain to me. About the RB25 ECU, it's doubtful it will work all that well. Since we discovered the ECU for my RB20DET was toast my car has been limping around the shop with a 25 ECU they have. It runs well enough to move it in and out of the shop but not much more than that.
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Hey guys, sorry for no updates the last couple days. This week I've been juggling more house offers and mounting the tires on the truck tonight. Cat- Good to see you on HybridZ! I heard it run on Wednesday, I can't wait to be driving it! Unfortunately I had to order another ECU. We are thinking when the previous owners cut the harness, the battery was still connected, and shorted it. I believe it's just running for now on a borrowed ECU from another RB. Only half the injectors were firing on the bad ECU. The truck is absolutely over the top, I love it. It also seems to be driving straight and no vibrations on the freeway!
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Here's another shot of the intake manifold showing the harness and throttle cable. We used the 44" Lokar cable kit I believe these were existing holes in the firewall Basic bracket on the manifold Catch can is ready to go
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We ended up using the RB25 compressor elbow and the RB20 compressor elbow to make one that will work for the setup: A heat shield is planned for the MAF. The radiator is in. I ordered the PRC double pass everyone orders but had them cut the height down to 17" and angle the upper neck. The modification cost was $40. The radiator looks top notch. A shot of the HKS blow off valve. We turned it around so it wouldn't fill with water The coolant bottle was one from Jeg's, I like the location of it. Almost out of sight monster Bosch 044 fuel pump
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More updates, in this post, another picture of the Volvo mount: More detail shots of the wire harness. I can't see where the actual hole is, it's pretty well hidden. Here's where the ignitor went: Intercooler piping finalized, I am really happy how it came out:
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Wow you have a good memory! The car looked a little different then too. Were you one of the other Z guys? I remember a silver one with 350Z wheels and his friend, and then a green one I think. And you're right lol, the car was without engine and that weekend I was under my truck with the torch Here we were parked at JCCS last year. The silver Z is another local friend. He's got the full T3 suspension on his Z. He got t-boned on the front fender so he's been saving and massing parts to get it back on the road again. More to come this weekend. I need to get the photos off the camera again.
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And just to hijack my own thread for a post, here's my truck in process. It's one of the reasons why the Z is at the shop. It's a stark contrast from my corner carver that will soon have more power And people, it's true, 2 projects at once is insanity to tackle.