blueovalz

Well, the author works at Acoustic Laser Laboratories. That's the key. What he is doing is shooting an timed intense laser pulse into the intake system, superheating the air. This creates a shock wave that travels to the intake valve, and it momentarily opens it, and at the same time the pressure pulse from this shock wave supercharges the cylinder as the valve is momentarily open. What he has just invented is the cam-less valve opening sequence. Absolutely awesome. And all this time I thought these LEDs used for lasing were a waste of time..... Well now, hows that for some masculine bovine feces.

Let alone a FO....a FOOR.....a FOR....Dang I just can't say that word.

It's like this guy in town here that has a big FORD blue oval on the side windows of his Z. Yeah, right, a V8 in a Z!!

One good thing about the head is that the flange surface is perpindicular with the deck, so the header tubes are already pointing downward compared to the Windsor. BUT, that damned exhaust port hump on the floor always was a problem.

I know what you mean. My friends old '73 'cuda with a 383 sounded aweful good. Firing order would be my guess.

Tom, you need to "volunteer" to get under one and find out why.

With the stock spring size on my 280, I had 16" X 8" wheels with 245/45ZR16 tires. The wheel backspacing was 4-7/16" which for all practical purposes, is centered and zero offset (9" wide lip to lip). I had about a "pinkies width" between the fender and the springs at the section width, and it never rubbed. The 245 fit very nicely on these wheels. According to the "245" width, I should have had a "bulge" of about 3/8" on both sides of the wheels, but in reality, the tires only had about 1/8" bulge past the wheels lips, thus I wondered how much validity the section width numbers really have. I have seen some 245 size tires on 8" wheels that appeared to be too wide for that size wheel. In my case I was using th Comp T/A tires, and it was a perfect fit.

I see no reason the bigger Windsor shouldn't fit in the Z. A 302 fits fine with lots of room, and the 351 is only a little wider and taller.

Actually it's BMW "LeMans Blue". I couldn't resist the name being the white LeMans stripes will go on with it. It's a little more "brillant" than I really wanted (lots of mica content), but my better half says stick with it.

Thanks all, I was mistaken, It is a good bit lighter than I thought. I keep forgeting that my reference is to my light weight 302 (just over 400lbs with aluminum flywheel and heads, and exhaust headers and intake).

It's not much of a pic, but here is my invisible motor. It has the hyperinvisibus pistons, crank, block, and heads. I'm getting the assembly balanced this weekend (only problem is I can find the crank).

This is a large site with lots of pictures of a guy building a fiberglass replica of an old Corsair (that will really fly). Very interesting. It will take some time to look through it, but if you ever want to build something out of fiberglass from the ground up....... http://www.corsair82.com/

The 4.6 is considerably heavier than even an all iron 5.0. I've got the fiqures at home, but its very heavy for the size. Also the rods are a lot longer (RL/S ratio in the neighborhood of 2.20 I think). anyway, not only is it heavier, but a lot wider too. Yes, if you want a technologically "newer" motor, the 4.6 is great, but for the real world, the 5.0 is too practical. It's a lot lighter, much smaller, and the R&D is at the peak of the curve for aftermarket parts. And mid to high 300's in the hp figures are not too hard to come by. Even the 351W I think is lighter than the 4.6, and is still smaller to boot.

Please keep us informed as to how this unit works. Any price you wish to share with us?

If you are making reference to the delrin/aluminum bushings, then you will have a very limited range to work with. They will maintain the setting you put in them, but, even with liberal amounts of grease, they will develope some wear, and slack in the bushings, causing a small amount of racket in bumpy situations. I had mine on my street car for a couple of years before finally redrilling the crossmember. At least a that point, I knew exactly where I wanted the pivot point to be. The rear ones where the ones that wore out the quickest. My suggestion would be to use that real sticky grease that aftermarket sway bar bushing manufacturers use between the poly bushings, and the bar. This stuff will stay put a lot longer than anything else out there.

One good thing about this groups creativity is that at least it's not just limited to cars.

A nibbler (air) works very well, but with a hood, this tool would not work due to the support structure under the exterior sheet metal. The nibblers do not distort the metal, but they will only cut single thickness metal.

Aside from the obvious external differences (big bumpers), there are many subtle differences. 5 vs 4 speed, larger differential, creature comforts that weigh a pound here and there in the interior, and the unibody uses thicker gauge sheet metal in places to support the Fed's 5 mph impact survivability mandate that made the earlier bumpers and supporting structure a joke.

Based on tufts of yarn to visualize air flow over the hood, I found that any sign of turbulance (and hence, I conclude reversal of air and high pressure) pretty much ends about 12" forward of the rear of the hood, and even with this, I found little turbulance up to the cowl cover. The area just beneath the windshield was chaotic in terms of air movement, in fact, almost a dead zone. With the modified hood, I found than full straight yarns all the way to the cowl cover were the observation in the area aft of the radiator out-vent.

Can you not adjust the wheelie bars so that they make contact at a lower angle instead of later when the front gets too high? It would seem to me that no matter what you do with the front end, until something else limits the travel (less torque, less traction, lowered bars), nothing will change.

Well done indeed!!!

Great minds think alike. I couldn't see myself an old man and still jacking up the front of the car to check the fluid level. That's when I decided to add a second filler. You can see the second filler at the bottom, left of center in the photo.

I didn't catch this if it was mentioned before, but have you made sure all the air is out of the circuit. I had a real hard time getting the filler (with my Griffin radiator) above the highest water level in the motor. In fact I had to add a filler inline on one of the hoses, closer to the block so that it was the highest part of the fluid system. Those steam pockets can cause a lot of problems.

They were changed based on an emissions issue. This type of opposite idle adjustment is easily identified by having a small, clear, nylon ring surrounding the adjustment screw.

The way I've heard it is this: A factory cast iron exhaust with extremely short runners (especially the one toward the O-ring) allows the cooler outside air to come in contact with the hot valves (especially if you have a lot of exhaust duration on the cam) with no exhaust pipe hooked up. The longer tube headers will prevent this. Obviously this brings up the question of overlap on a cam. Does this mean that the cool intake charge will do the same thing. Obviously not, so if this explaination is a bunch of masculine bovine feces, I don't know.