blueovalz
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Posts posted by blueovalz
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The real McCoy here, but he's fabricated the headers and all kinds of things on this. I spent all day last Saturday drooling over his work. 400+ inches based on a Windsor block. Nothing is left for want on this project, and I mean NOTHING!
BTW, even though this is on a lift, this is the ride height of the car.
Some of his other toys
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Yep, that was the puzzler of the week for the Click and Clack duel a few months back.
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The Oly Charger is there again! That's great. It must baffle the French kids to see such a large and loud 30 year old American car.
Here's the old girl at the Ring:
Did you hear sound of the P4 (guess) passing and moving on up the track? Awesome video!
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The reason I said that was because I've made a fiberglass air filter holder that fits between the tower bracing that looks somewhat like a large teardrop. When the engine has been run, and the holder is hot, the fiberglass will bend much more easily than when it was cool, and will retain that bend if allowed to cool under the force of that bend. Because of this, I had to be more creative in the design by incorporating convex and concave shapes that would not bend as easily when warm. The previous design, once it went through the heat cycles was permanently deformed.
One thing to think about here is the age of the glass. Seasoned glass is harder than freshly made parts. My understanding is that the resin is constantly curing, even years later. Perhaps the newness of my parts was allowing this change to happen more easily than if the parts were more seasoned.
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Fiberglass will soften will heat (don't know how much, or at what temperature), but it does somewhat resemble plastic in that once it weakens, it can carefully be forced into simple bend that will remain after it cools down. My experience has indicated there is a fine line between getting more flexible with heat, and acutally burning it.
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My practice is to place a bolt into the threads prior to welding, and then remove it just after the welding is finished. I've never had this situation cause the seizing of the bolt, and it protects the threads from an errant dingleberry attaching itself onto a thread not seen.
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I would strongly suggest the removal of the two duplicate postings before moderator comes crashing down on you. One post in the appropriate forum (this one) is all that is needed or allowed.
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Thanks for the tips. I'm planning on adding the H-pipe some time this summer, and the template will come in handy. I'm looking for data on where the H-pipe should be located optimally. I'm very limited on its location and concerned it will be placed too far rearward to be fully effective.
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Suggestions?
Since its all cut out, how about a dramatically recessed panel of consistent material and appearance (please forgive the poor drawing quallity)?
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Oddest symptom I've ever heard. If indeed everything is correctly installed, then my guess is the booster is at fault. The vacuum is metered I believe, and if that metering no longer exists, or is faulty, then the full vaccum signal might be applied to a fairly large diagram (I believe the ZX diaphram is larger than the Z). I would disconnect the vaccum hose and drive it that way to observe the difference (be sure to block off the hose toward the engine or you'll have a massive vacuum leak).
My brakes have a very slight drag as well. I've never had a set of disc brakes that did not "scrap" as you turned the wheel (jacked up and hand spun), but it must be very slight because it doesn't slow the wheel down. Remember, the seals around the pistons will retract the piston a slight amount, but (depending on the design), the pads are usually (not both of them anyway) attached to the piston, so once the piston retracts, the pad(s) may still rest against the rotor with no ill effect.
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Oh, you want the rear end instead of the rear end:
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My personal experience has been the that the radiator provides no recognizable affect on down force. the air velocity and mass flowing through the radiator is not enough to do this. What did help the downforce issue was that angling the radiator one way or the other (goal was to reduce the "vertical height") which then allows the changing of bodywork and hood angles to promote the downforce (area within the first 2 feet of the front edge of car or hood)
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Doc got it on the nose. What happened is when I installed the damper, it pushed the spring off the seal, (and get this), got caught between the damper sleeve and the base of the crank (actually left about 1 1/2 inches of the spring almost imbedded into the damper sleeve. Anyway, it's all out, new seal in (WITH the spring in place). First time for everything, even after 30 years of putting motors together.
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Drained my oil on the new engine, and this was on the magnet!
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If I get the oil temperature issue taken care of soon, I'll dyno the current Holley set-up before mounting this. It's been at or near 100º for the past week, and the next week or so looks just as bad.
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Terry, what is the purpose of the 8 degree cut, just a straighter shot to the intakes?
The hood blister is not wide enough to allow a straight up orientation. The big-block Weber set-ups use a 10º tilt, so I studied the situation and went with an 8º tilt to help clearance issues with the tower bracing and the hood clearance. Last night I finished tilting the mounting studs as well, so everything is finished.
Roger, I plan on using the typical screen covers at this point.
Lastly, (and this is kinda silly), I wanted to space the velocity stacks so that the spacing between the the same-carb stacks was equal to the across-the-manifold spacing of the stacks (silly, but it makes all the stacks equally spaced front to back, and left to right now). The 10º would have pushed them too close to each other.
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It took 20 years, but I finally found a Weber 48 IDA system I could afford. It was such a good price that I decided to forego the EFI I was planning. So, I cleaned them up, installed new gaskets, bigger chokes, and then milled the intake for an 8º tilt of the carbs. It is ready for the swap (as soon as I change the triangular bracing a bit from the towers to the firewall. I'm all a twitter!
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DavyZ...awesome memory!
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I've decided to go with a Keensert instead. Thanks guys.
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Thanks John,
Funny story on that. I got the 50th issue in the mail, and started reading it walking up the driveway when I immediately noticed all the full page ads. So, being the anal person I am, I started counting, and found 67 full page ads, not counting the 1/2 and 1/3 page ads, nor the classifieds. So I put the magazine down, went to the computer and asked AW (letter to the editor), "when would we get our free subscriptions due to all the ad revenue generated". As you've guessed:
1) no response from AW (great magazine though)
2) I didn't see the photo until three days later when a local speed shop owner here in town called me about it. My response, "What are you talking about?"
Even at 17 years of age, the BlueOvalZ still gets a little bit of attention.
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Thanks for the link and tip. After looking a Enecon's site, it appears their product is more oriented for coating (protection) and adhesion, with no reference to high temperature strength.
Cementing the studs in place as merit, and I may look more closely at that option, but the temperature issue will cloud that. Perhaps I could find a product that will hold up fine at normal or elevated engine temperatures, but soften at even higher temps (400º or higher) in case I need to remove the stud later.
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I need to repair an intake manifold. I want to fill the existing carb mounting holes with a good epoxy, drill and tap new holes in the filler epoxy, but at a slight angle difference than the original hole was (8º off from the original axis of the holes), and then, if needed, helicoil those threads.
The problem is that every easily purchased epoxy (JB weld, etc) gets a little bit softer when exposed to the typical engine heat temperatures. Has anybody had experience with an epoxy that stays rock hard when warmed up to typical underhood temps (remember, I get no air flow under the hood, and it gets HOT).
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I've always used the OEM rubber bushings. By the time they get compressed to the stops, there is little difference in compressibililty to the poly bushings as it relates to forces imparted by driving even with stickies. The good thing is that these can be tightened up while the car sets at its static ride height much easier than with the poly bushings can.
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This is where the caster really makes the argument interesting. Again, it's a compromise, but less of one. Lots of caster helps increase the camber curve on tight runs (solo for example), but may be too much on a road coarse where the same g-force (read: sway) is had with less steering angle. Like John said, compromise... compromise... compromise. This is why one track setting is a different setting than the next track for fastest times.
Raising Mounting Points for Rear Lower Control Arms?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Take a look at the last photo. It appears some additional effort (and parts) may have been put into stablizing the tube somewhat from rotating?
The lowering of the outter pivots was a neat project, but not one I would recommend. It took a lot of work, and very carefull fitting and proper welding because all the braking, lateral and longitudinal forces work on that area of the strut. If I had to do it over again, I'd do it in a modular theme in which a fully fabricated extension is bolted onto the strut using the existing pin boss and whatever else is rigid.