blueovalz
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Posts posted by blueovalz
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May I assume that these prototypes would also fit my application (should I wish a cloned set)?
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I believe the same study also placed the NAPA (gold and black) filters as one of the upper quality filters. They run about $9 a piece though.
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Because of the straight cage bar immediately behind the seat shoulder (restricting any further movement aft for the seat), I've got mine further forward than most, but the jack tube is just under my knees. Again, this tube could be moved anywhere, It just happened out this way and allowed the tube to go through the OEM holes in the side of the rocker panel interior stamping.
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Just out of curiosity, did you have poly T/C bushings?
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I welded a tube through the unibody at at the exact midpoint of the axle centerlines. The balance point has changed from time to time as I constantly modify the car and the resulting weight balance changes become immediatly noticable when the entire car is balanced upon the two steel rods that are inserted into these tubes. At the current time it will hover at exactly 50/50 on this bar (need to start removing something up front to reduce that front-end weight again). Here is what I did:
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Installing the spacer will have a very small effect on the camber. it will lower the outer pivot point, and because the length of the lower control arm is fixed, the camber will change very slightly. Check out the currently running string (link below)about camber change angles. The author (tholt) has measured the amount of camber change with a 1" bump and rebound, and this would seem to fit into your query.
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Judging from the photos, I'd guess home-made products here. I don't know of any factory supported pieces like this. Interesting front arm design. First time I've seen one quite like that.
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So...how far below the crossmember will your pan extend? Mine rides about 1" below the crossmember with the plane of the bellhousing about 1" forward of the firewall.
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If the 240Z axles and threads are in good shape when you pull them, I may be interested in purchasing them from you.
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IF I understand this query correctly, then I would suggest you use the Astro input shaft and simply change the clutch disc. I would suggest you talk to Astro because I believe (hope I'm right here) that the astro input shaft is a 26 spline, 1 1/16" shaft, which is a GM shaft...isn't it?). So I don't think this will work. BTW, I've got the G-force gear-set, and it is the above set-up, which I think is identical to the Astro stuff (or close to it).
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Is brake cooling air primarilly used for vented rotors? I ask because the air is vented to the hub portion of the rotor where the rotor vents pick it up and vents it out to the circumference of the rotor (thus cooling the entire rotor). A non-vented rotor would simply have cool (supposedly) air blown onto one side only, which to me would/could cause some issues of one side of the rotor being a different temperature from the other side of the same rotor. Would this cause the rotor to distort into a very slight concave/convex shape in a worse case scenario?
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The t-5 is a fine transmission, especially behind the OEM powerplants. Issues I heard are related to 3rd gear on hard shifting with high torque powerplants (strong V8 power), or 5th gear pulls. What are your options if you don't want the T-5?
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Mine is behind the radiator and simply directs air out and up from the radiator and keeps it out from the under-hood area.
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Happy birthday Pete!
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Savage: Any issues with the front differential crossmember modified as shown in the photograph? The thinner material over the extra hump has me wondering about future implications?
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great information! This brings up an issue that I've observed in myself as well as others, and that's the assumption what when camber plates are installed, and the car lowered, that the middle setting of the plates will equate to zero camber. I've found that for zero camber on a lowered car (depending on how low you go), usually you end up on the outer limit of the slot range.
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I'd like to add that the Ford has two different lengths for the input shafts, and I SUSPECT the GM counterpart has a different length as well.
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Google T-5 and you'll find noticable differences in torque capacities as well and slight internal differences between manufacturers (e.g Ford has a slight internal difference to the GM T-5s).
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Terry,
If I was a really good fabricator I might have tried to make a Tremec TKO 600 work but that would have been a more serious undertaking.
I was too lazy for that. Unfortunately, the money spent rebuilding T-5 was almost as much as a new TKO, BUT, I could simply bolt it right into place where the TKO would need some conversion work.
One thing you said that I must agree on in the shifting experience: I've got to be patient, and shift cautiously for the first couple of miles until the tranny box warms up, but by then the assembly is in perfect specs due to the case expansion, and shifting becomes better than it was when the tranny was OEM and new.
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Update:
I finally got the 6.3L running with the upgraded T-5 using G-Force gears and mainshaft. The gear noise is very noticable (but the transmission is solidly mounted to the chassis) compared to the OEM gears. I've not pushed hard on the new assmebly (new motor and transmission) as yet, but so far, my observations are in line with the gear manufacturer's anticipated characteristics of the new gears. The transmission is very tight (per their suggested assembly instructions) until the transmission warms up. After warm-up, the transmission shifts great. If I had to comment on anything unexpected, it was the noise from the 5th gear. It is cut straighter than the first 4 gears, and much coarser than the OEM gear, so it has quite a bit of whine to it, almost too much. I don't know if this is normal, so I'm going to be cautious in this gear for a litte while and let it break in.
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I'm up for any change. I'll google the V-band thing and see what it's about. I think I know what it is, but my impession was that there was still some required "slip-fit" (at the V-band joint) in order for it to work. The front is a slip-fit, but I wanted a very rigid assembly midway that 'acted' solid as support for the exhaust's continuation up into the body as it leaves the differential support. I knew this would do that, but perhaps I could change this for a quicker removal (which was the purpose).
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Or an R230
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The one part of the car I've yet to fabricate myself was the exhaust. Well, that little detail has been taken care of. Because of the way I hid the rear portion of the exhaust above a lower exterior panel, and exited the exhaust in the OEM valance panel, I was force to disassemble the lower panel, exhaust rings and tips, and then pull the entire exhaust if I wanted to remove the driveshaft, work on the tranny, etc.
This weekend I finished welding up my own exhaust with mandel bent pipes (no SS though), and inserted a joint just past the differential crossmember so that I could simply remove a short section of exhaust (15 minutes max) in order to remove everything forward of the differential.
Custom 5 bolt stub axles with or with 3/4" offset
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Those are awesome dimensions. This is the smartest option I've seen...elimination of the weak spot with maximum spline size. Have you looked at any of the 930/vw conversion flanges to see if that spline count and size could be cut into your new axles?
I'm not very concerned about the thickness of the adapters. My goal is to reduce the mass of the assembly (by removal of the adapter and directly bolting the 930 joint onto the flange), and I feel that your part will do that. I assume that the axle will need to be lengthened as a result (about 3/4"), but that is not a problem either being I recently purchased a spare set that is waiting to be machined for a slightly longer groove position.