zbuild

Its not a real good shot, but you can see in this pic the position your filter ends up in if you have the oil filter bracket http://www.240z.id.au/images/car/eng_tran/eng2_12_1.jpg I'll see if I can find a better pic of it Cheers - Zbuild

You can also pull your coil lead out and and the plugs out and rotate the engine over for a short while until the oil pressure comes up, then reconnect things and start it for real. cheers - Zbuild

Cool! thanks for your replies, nest time Im in there I'll do a big of chopping. Thanks again Zbuild

Yeah I thought that would be the case. . . the bearing in the bottom of the dizzy only locates the shaft horizontally, the verticle movement is controlled by that internal support you were mentioning. I remember checking it out when I put the engine together and not being worried about it. . . you know how it is though, someone comes along and plants a seed of doubt in your mind. . . .and bingo, you got an imminent disaster! Cheers - Zbuild

Can you move your coil to the plug side of the motor, away from your exhaust. . . or if you wanted to get really excited, move it forward, behind the grill, I probably wouldn't leave it out there though as water might be a problem. . . This would tell you if your heat theory was sound Cheers - Zbuild

Ive got a turbo'd L28 and use a Motec computer for timing. When I built it I just removed the distributor and made up a plate to fill the hole. Its been like this for 4 years with no problems.. . someone recently suggested I might have trouble because the top of the shaft that drives the oil pump is no longer supported. Any ideas on this? Cheers - Zbuild

Ive been using a set of aftermarket pistons (not forgies) with ceramic coated tops in my turbo engine for 4 years now. . . and have run up to 20psi but normally run 15psi and have had no problems with them. Pistons made specifically for turbo charging would be better in that they have wider ring lands and can take more pressure there, but sensible tuning can go a long way to allowing the use of pistons other than Forged ones. cheers - Simon

I got a custom clutch made for my engine, it uses a Ferrari pressure plate housing to exert 2700lb of pressure on the disc, but at the same time as I had this built I got a lot of meat machined off my flywheel. There was a lip on my flywheel and when the face was machined, this was reduced, reducing the clamping force on the plate. . . .I had to get the flywheel machined again to replace the lip depth. If the face was machined too much, could this reduce the depth of the lip to the extent that it would reduce the clamping force, so that when you get up around 4000rpm and start making some real hp you get clutch slip???? just a thought?? cheers - simon

Thanks ON3GO My 240 has been built about 4 years now, and took me 4 years to build. .. It is great fun. . . take it out regularly, but dont drive it to work. . good for the occasional adrenalin rush cheers - Zbuild

Howdy all. .. Ive been away from the site for some time . . . . business but now Im employed by someone else and have time to do what "I" want to do My website has changed to: http://www.240z.id.au Cheers - Zbuild

I run around with mine on 15psi (308rwhp) and have had it screwed up to 17psi (370rwhp). . . .I think 800hp in a Z would be darn scary ! I get plenty of sideways action with mine now Ive been away from here for a while my z's details can be seen here: http://www.240z.id.au cheers

No, mine's a 240 and came with a very shagged L24, I got my block etc from a Japanese importer (because it had its turbo manifold already on it)

I think most of the models were similar, but Im not sure about the 260 though. The Silvia was the (approx.) '92 model S13 cheers - Simon

Fronts are as follows: 240K Datsun hubs with Toyota calipers. The calipers have had a spacer put inbetween each half to widen the gap (by 8mm) so Honda Legend rotors will fit between them. The Legend rotors have had the centre hole turned out to fit over the Datsun hub, the outside has had 10mm machined off to bring the diameter down to the same size as the Z rotors and 4 holes have been drilled to take the studs on the Datsun hub. The rears are: Early model skyline (I think Pintara are the same) rear disk rotors, calipers and caliper mounts have been used. The left caliper is on the right side and the right on the left so the bleed holes are at the top. The mounting bracket was modified by boring out the centre hole slightly, and welding up the four holes where it bolts on and repositioning them so the calipers sit at the top. 260Z handbrake cables were used. Ive used a Willwood proportioning valve on the rear, a 260C 1" bore master cylinder and a booster off an auto 260 (big) Cheers - Simon

Hi Jeromio! I sort of dropped off the map due to business committments. . ..Ive still been tweaking though. I changed computers to a Motec M48 with an ignition expander. . .best thing I ever did, got me an extra 70Kw (93hp) without changing anything else! Also made it much more of a pleasure to drive. Im still having a running battle with a vibration, Ive had the tailshaft ballanced a couple of times and played around with my half shafts to no avail. .. .thinking about totally rebuilding my tailshaft with new components. . . I wish I had been fishing away the time . . .but no. . .Ive been working Ive just decided to get my priorities in order. Gidday Sparky, The cars still great fun to drive. . .Ive recently had another dyno and at 15psi it puts about 306hp to the rear wheels at 17psi about 370hp but is hopeless for traction. I run it on 15psi because even at that its a real handful. Ive been doing a bit of showing, picking up a few trophies here and there. Ive tidied up some of the show stuff and have a few little projects in the pipeline. Zline - the bellhousing used is off a 260Z Im not sure if you guys in the states saw the 260Z ??? but you remove the 2 front bearings from the silvia box's shafts and replace them with 260z ones, then releive a bit of aluminium from the casting of the bellhousing where the bearings fit (because the gears are wider and foul on the castings) and then bolt it together. If you get the right silvia box, the gearstick even comes out the same hole. You also need to make up a new rear mount and make up a new tailshaft. Good box though, Ive given mine a reasonable caning and its holding up. The bearings are getting a wee bit noisy but thats to be expected. Cheers - Simon

Hi all, Ive finally got my website back online. Some of the longer serving members might remember back in the distant past a site called "Zbuild" with a turbo'd yellow 240?? Ive changed the web address to http://www.240z.id.au I had to strip it down and remove a lot of stuff as I now have to pay for its hosting I only put it up last night, so there could be a few little glitches. . .hope not though. Cheers - Simon

advancing your timing to "just before pinging" should make your engine more efficient and if anything should improve your miles per gallon. . .be careful though you DONT want pinging, especially in a turbo engine.

I'll throw my 2cents in. . . I agree about the hi-heat silicone. . .its magic stuff, I use it on my turbo'd L6 at the head/exhaust manifold face and also about 500mm down the dump pipe where I have a 3-bolt flange. On the dyno, my dump pipe glows orange right down to the 3-bolt flange, but when you take that flange apart the silicone is soft. . .amazing! Do make sure that the silicone is oxygen sensor safe if you run an O2 sensor though. I also run hi-temp ceramic coating on my exhaust manifold and on the shield under my inlet manifold. I cant tell what changes it made because Ive had it on since I built the car up, but after 6 laps round a track here in OZ with a mate who had a hot normally aspirated (webbers) L6. . . under my bonnet was like I'd been for a gentle cruise down to the shops, under his was stinking hot and mine puts out probably 150hp more than his. . .so Im a convert. Cheers

If you are actually talking about the exhaust system as opposed to the inlet/outlets of the turbo, people usually go to 3"+ when they are upgrading an exhaust system. I run 3" ID from the dump pipe right to the back of the car. . .this includes thru the mufflers. The pipes that run through the mufflers are also 3" ID and have holes drilled in them rather than those pressed in perforations (which reduce exhaust flow). Mandrel bends are also highly recommended as they are formed on a machine (mandrel) that allows very smooth corners, no kinks or crushing, again, this keeps your gas flow up. Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost" has a bit on exhausts that is quite interesting reading, another interesting read is "21st Century performance" by Julian Edgar. Cheers

71 Z, ground up rebuild, adjustable front/rear lower control arms, To4 turbo, intercooler, Motec M48 computer, 3 coils, 3" mandrel bend S/S exhaust, custom leather interior Australian and Sydney Concourse champion last year, 4 years in the rebuild and 2 more just tidying up stuff. .. .definately certifiable!

I think I rank as the pig. . . certainly my wife says I should be committed!

Many years ago I had a hot VW golf that for no apparent reason started to smoke very badly, foul plugs in all cylinders just like yours. I came a hairs breath from having the motor rebuilt, but couldn't afford it right then. Then I went out and got a new tank of gas. . . .. bingo. . .fixed. Apparently when the gas stations tanks get low, you sometimes pic up a tank full of very oily fuel. ... .have you got a tank of gas lately??? Cheers Zbuild

It seems to me that most aftermarket airdams dont quite fit "perfectly" without a little attention. I had to drill a couple of extra holes in mine to line up. I also added two braces from the front end of my frame rails to the underside lip of the airdam. They were pretty simple braces, 2 bits of 6mm dia. rod with a bit of flat welded on each end. I drilled a hole through the flat big enough for the bolt hole thats already there on the frame rail and a smaller one for the airdam end. I used button head cap screws with flat washers on each side of the fibreglass, and I brought the button heads up from under, so there'd be nothing to catch on gutters and the other inevitable things we run into! I also cut some rubber washer out of push bike inner tube for all the bolts that hold my airdam together and put them under the flat washers to allow for a bit of give. Cheers

Hi Jersey, Mine's a 71 240, L28 7.54:1 comp, p90 head, o-ringed block, ceramic coated pistons & valve heads, big sump, polished & peened rods & crank, hi vol & pressure oil pump, 1 5/8" heavy walled stainless ex. manifold, T04 with hi temp coated snail, 3" mandrel bent stainless exhaust, 3 coils, Motec M48 computer, Silvia box, R200 LSD etc etc. Its dyno'd to 17psi, but I run it at 15psi and at 15 it produces the 326. At 17 it produces more like 370hp at the rear wheels. To get to the 17 psi though, it spikes to 20psi just for a second, so I thought it safer to run at the lower boost, It also breaks traction in 2nd and 3rd at 15psi and is just obscene at 17psi

I run 2 Bosch dump valves and when my boost goes up over 10 it sounds like an angry cat is loose under my bonnet. . .hissing and carrying on like a mad thing. The blow off valves leak over a certain pressure. . .they were designed for standard road vehicles that probably only saw 9 or 10 psi max. what sort of dump valve do u use? could it be that? I also run a big K&N filter in my front guard (for nice cold air) I had a shroud that got damaged so I took it off. . . .then one day I drove in the rain, the K&N got wet, and my turbo would sound like it was spooling up on idle. . ..I thought Id killed my turbo! Just had to clean the filter and put a new shroud on to stop water and lumps getting on the filter. It was something to do with the turbo having lots of difficulty pulling air through the filter, and sucking the shaft of the turbo out of normal position. cheers - Simon