matt_w

FYI Rockauto sells new boots and clips for these for $8 a piece. They even have a service where you can send in used shafts for a rebuild. Coupon code 95975874442690 gives you a 5% discount there.

Great, sign me up for the group buy. Do I pay you through your site? I'll look around here in my area for the CV axles first (there are a lot of Z hoarders around my parts).

Is this group buy still going on? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105510-m2-z31t-short-shafts-group-buy-2/ If so, I'll jump on that. Are the 300ZX turbo CVs difficult to come by? I'm pretty sure I can source some 280z stub axles easy, but I don't see many Z31 turbos on the road...

Thanks for all that info. If I'm reading all this right it goes from inside out: R200 -> CV shaft -> CV adapter -> 280z stub axle (I still have a 240z stub axle). Do you know under what circumstances people were having binding issues without the shortened axles? I'm guessing if they need shorter shafts, it was happening on lowered cars (which mine is)?

How much did that setup cost? Were the parts all fabbed, or did you start with parts from a donor car? Any pics?

Finally got the Z in good running shape and am ready to drive it for the summer. Everything *should* be fairly bulletproof except for my half shafts and u-joints. I've read that the non-stock u-joints are breakage prone (I don't have the stock ones any more), and the last thing I want is for one of those to shatter while I'm doing 60 down the highway. My engine was dyno'd at 430HP/470TQ. The rear end is an R200 with an LSD and Ron-Tyler mount, which from what I've read should be ok. So I guess the question is how worried should I be on the ujoints/half shafts? (I'm not going to be drag racing or doing a lot of 1/4 mile pulls). Has anyone had any direct experience or stories on these breaking and the aftermath? What do other people here do for their rear ends with high-torque setups?

It's possible the clutch disc is installed backwards. Most LT1 clutches do not say which is the correct side to place towards the engine (mine didn't). I believe if you have it backwards the clutch will not disengage properly.

I called around to a lot of shops, and they all had ridiculous prices and bought pre-made bends. I ended up spending $200 or so in raw materials and did it myself. Really polished my welding skills while doing it. Did dual 2.5" into a generic y-pipe with a 3" out, magnaflow muffler and electronic bypass valve. The welds aren't pretty, but it doesn't leak. I can see something like this costing a lot to have professionally done, it took a lot of hours to finish.

I'm using the Eibach 240/260z progressive lowering springs and the tokico illumina adjustable shocks recommended in the suspension section for the 240s. My v8 has aluminum heads/manifold/water pump etc, so I believe the engine is right around stock weight though. After the springs settled, the car handles well and rides at a nice even height front/back. http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/pass.jpg http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/driv.jpg

Gvincent, Were your boots physically touching the headers? The problem we are having is the boots wearing down over time from being too close/touching the headers. Aluminum would make the problem worse, as it conducts heat much better than silicon/ceramic.

When you are in reverse, the 2 leads coming out of the transmission are shorted together. This circuit will end up being the +12V supplied to the reverse lights. So the 2 leads going to the reverse switch: one of them is connected to +12V, and the other is connected to the reverse lights....doesn't matter which is which. You will need a sensor connection like in your link to connect to the transmission. They sell generic GM sensors like that at most auto parts stores.

Huh? My kit came with both HEI and standard boots...Maybe you should give Accel a call. I did before I bought mine and they were pretty helpful.

If your car was a manual before the swap, you should be able to plug the reverse light switch on the T5 directly into the factory harness. If it was an automatic, I think there are still wires run in the factory harness for both Auto and Manual, depending on what year your car is.

Here is the part # of the kit I ordered: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-9001C/ Looks like the prices have gone up since last year or whenever I got them. Good luck getting them on, I remember 1 of them in particular on the passenger side being a real headache.

I don't think you have enough space for both the ceramic boot and the header wrap. At least it's that tight for me. Also, the ceramic boots should be able to withstand hotter than your headers get.

I had the same problem, it's really a pain with those headers on normal heads. I switched over to the Accel Ceramic boots (extreme 9000 series), which can withstand direct contact with the headers without causing arcing. Even with those, a couple of the boots were very difficult to get on, but my problems went away. Worth the $100 or so bucks. They survived my engine initial startup and break in, where my headers were glowing a nice cherry red, so I think they will last a long time

I think most people (at least the JTR suggests) to use the stock Datsun sending unit. The threads match up pretty closely to a 1/8" and won't leak if you use enough teflon tape.

Just finished, ended up being fairly simple. Didn't even really have to lower the transmission much at all to slide it out. For anyone else that finds this thread: -remove distributor cap, left about 1/4" between cap plate and firewall with transmission lowered. -remember to remove clutch master cylidner and disengage clutch fork BEFORE unbolting transmission -loosen engine mounts (so you have more wiggle room) -remove shifter baseplate, this will make your life a lot easier There was one difficult transmission to bellhousing bolt to reach: the passenger side upper corner. To reach it, I used about 2 feet of socket extensions from inside the Z through the shifter hole, using a mirror and flashlight to guide it into place. With the transmission removed, it would be very easy to remove the bellhousing and replace the clutch. Yay! Now to find out why my T56 is stuck in gear...

Great to hear! Any tips/tricks that you found? Looks like the distributor cap obviously has to come off to tilt the engine back. Did you remove the entire shift lever (including the stub that the main lever bolts to)?

I don't need to remove the bellhousing, just the transmission. The transmission is bolted to the bellhousing, so assuming I can reach all the bolts I should be ok right? Or are you saying no go. here is my setup: http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/engine2.jpg http://matt.loadedregister.com/240z/engine4.jpg

T56/JTR kit. Has anyone tried pulling the transmission out without pulling the entire engine/trans combo? it looks like if you pull the shifter baseplate out of the top of the trans it may slide back far enough to get the input shaft out of the bellhousing. Just making sure there isn't a quicker way of doing what I'm about to do

Well, looking back through the T56 schematics, looks like 5th/6th gear both ride on the same shaft. I guess that means I have a bad bearing somewhere. Looks like I'll be doing T56 rebuild #2 pretty soon

I was a little over 2200RPM in 4th before I switched to 5th I think. I forgot, I also had the car up on jack stands with the engine running and put it in 5th/6th and there was no squealing sound. There are no squeals or sounds when the tranny is in neutral. Just the normal throwout bearing faint rattling sound.

So I finally got my v8 Z put together and running, and everything seems ok when driving around town. However, I noticed that if I put it in 5th/6th gear, there is a terrible squealing sound coming from up front (not sure on the exact location). The sound starts not when you put it in gear, but when you apply the gas. I noticed that the bellhousing was contacting the transmission tunnel in a spot, so I bent that area back and now there is about 1/2" clearance between the trans and tunnel. I put it in 5th gear under a few conditions after fixing this issue and this is what happened: 1: Doing ~40mph, put it in 5th, no sound 2: Doing ~ 45mph, put it in 5th and stomped the gas, no squeal 3: Doing about 35-40mph later in the evening, after about 5 seconds in 5th, it starts to squeal. My original theory was that due to the ratio of 5th/6th, shifting into them at low speed was causing a large amount of vibration as the engine got loaded down. I guess this could still be the case (if it's contacting in an area that I don 't see). I do know that the 5th/6th share a synchro, so I fear it may be the transmission. I rebuilt the tranmission myself, and I guess it's possible I messed something up. I wouldn't know where to start looking though if I tore the trans apart. Also, if anyone cares, here is a vid of my freshly put together z!:

Fair enough. I've already swapped out most grounds (that are behind the dash) by using thick-gauge wire diretly to the steel frame of the dash, then I have a large wire (in addition to the stock wires) running from that to the frame. That should cover me right? Where is a good place to get a headlight relay kit? When you say rebuilt switches, are you just referring to taking them apart and cleaning up the contacts? Are you also recommending to replace heavy-current wires behind the dash or do you mean something else. Thanks for the advice, and a big middle finger to the guy who thought it would be a good idea to secure the battery down with a zip-tie