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HybridZ

Thumper

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Posts posted by Thumper

  1. My Z has a pretty much stock 2002 LS1 in it. A friend of mine (Chris) here locally does tuning, but he didn't have a dyno of his own to use. Well, he bought one and opened his own business so I took the yellow Z over for a test and tune. The initial air/fuel ratio was horrible (between 10.6 and 11.3, optimum being closer to 14.6). Chris went over the tables and made a few changes with the increases shown in the chart. Peak torque was up but the real difference was the 300 ft-lb from 1800 RPM to 5800 RPM. Peak HP wasn't too much different, but the 15-25 HP increase from 2000 RPM to 5600 PRM is noticeable. The area under the curve is what matters.

     

    Torque is acceleration, Horsepower is speed. Now I need more of both.....

     

    On ls2's and ls1's I usually tune for 13:1 at full throttle. 14.6 is great for cruising but for full load it needs to be richer. Looks good though. You might also try adding some more timing after torque peak to help your top-end alittle. That is along as you don't have any Knock Retard. Nice numbers!

  2. UG... you guys are killing me! Ha. Thumper, are you going to be putting in a new T3? And i do agree what you're saying about doing a few upgrades and then getting the 11. Not that big of a deal and the next goal with the L would be huge... and expensive to say the least. What the original plan was to build a streetable 11 sec Z then concentrate on building it to be worthy of a (Watkins Glenn) track car, but still streetable. Evil, Bernardd, cygnusx... you guys are definitely swaying my decision as well. THANKS FOR NUTTIN! lol.

     

    I'm going to see how far the junkyard turbo will handle before whatever blows on a $450 complete turbo engine. We will see:flamedevi

     

    I also see Jon's point. Doesn't matter what you are running you are still faster than you were so yeah good luck either way. Me I like to make goals and engineer a way to do something that most can't do. 11's with a t3 is one of them.

  3. After I megasquirted my red Z and was running the stock t3 still I was running against low 12 cars. I raced a 600cc motorcycle that ran a 11.1 earlier that night at the track with a drag slick. And he only beat me by 3 cars. But can't compare that to anything. My guess at its peak I was running 12.2 nothing faster so I think you've got the fastest. But I say whats another 11 second l28 with lots of stuff done to it compared to be the ONLY 11 second l28 with the stock turbo and longblock. So keep the t3 and tell us what it can do :)

     

    I will be running a t3 soon and will be seeing what it can do before it blows up so you might have alittle competition. That is after I have the new turbo ready to go in:)

  4. I'm with you John... Every time I watch that one I crack up... I hope and pray that I'm never that guy if I ever end up wheel to wheel racing.

     

    Mike

     

     

    I WAS SEVENTH!!! :ass: Must make note never do that. Atleast he got back up to 10th. I wonder what all those people he passed on the pace lap were thinking :evil:

  5. Dude, it sounds like zx trans time! If you can get a known good working trans you willl be in better shape IMO.

     

    Evan

     

    Everyday except wednesday of last week and tonight i've worked on the dang car for atleast 1-2 hrs. Last 2 weekends all day affairs (10+ hrs) can't I have a break....:sour: I can get a zx for $150 from a jy. They will quantee it works nice when installed other than that hah. I guess i'll be doing it this weekend ontop of my rear poly bushings.

  6. E

     

    F

     

    I

     

    :shock:

     

    Nice numbers, that is a strong car. I always liked the 'sharpie on the sheet' look to a Weber Dyno Curve. Not the jaggies found on some EFI systems. Then again, they don't vary with the season. Give sumpthin', get sumpthin'!

     

    Yepo carbs are alot smoother on the dyno but I noticed that smoothing was set to 5 which is alot high for my taste. I prefer to have it lower say 3 so you can see the bumpiness. That way you can tell if you have too much timing before you can hear it.

  7. I would agree, however there were 15 cars trying to dyno that day and I did not want to hog up more time. On a side not, the current jetting will probably be spot on come spring around here.

     

    K just wanted to make sure because my only Non-turbo tuning experience has been with my ls2 which is a high compression v8 vs a mid compression L6.

     

    Yepo major drawback of carbs always needs adjustment when weather changes.

     

    So you were running 32 degrees of timing on that run? I am running 35 right now on a 8.5:1 fairly stock motor with 13:1 afr's. I didn't notice in any improvements with my butt dyno with more timing and I don't think there would be. Even 35 i've heard is too much for optimal combustion. BTW nice tq curve. 3500-6000 nice and broad

  8. Ok here is the latest. It either just started to rattle at idle or my idle is higher because of a leak in brake booster so its rattling. Also it is slightly worse when its cold. Tranny fluid is topped off. It could be the countershaft bearing but not sure. I thought that was a problem though for only zx trannies not early 5spds?

  9. wow 850's I think I might try a 700ish injector. That should get me well into the 30+ psi range If I ever wanted to? (muha ha ha ha)

     

    That would be interesting to see the limit of the holset turbo on a l28. Just disconnect the wastegate line and let us know.:flamedevi:flamedevi:flamedevi What lasts longer engine or tranny?

  10. Mine is definitely bearings, but not the input bearing. Its not that big of a deal to have a trans guy swap the input shaft bearing for you. Last time I had it done was for $20 cash.

     

    Evan

     

    If its still making noise when you have the clutch disengaged maybe its something else (not the trans?) making the racket?

     

    I wish. I thought it was an exhaust rattle so I took it to my friends shop had it up on the lift and put my ear near the tranny. It is coming from the tranny. Thanks though.

  11. I had one that did that actually. Really badly...

     

    Lost 5th on the free way after an 130mph pull.

    Lost reverse at the same time (didn't know it).

    Then 2nd...

    Then 4th...

     

    I think your tranny's days are numbered.

    Mine was an early 5 speed too.

    Mario

     

    That sounds like the countershaft bearing. The main not backs off. But the tailtale sign i've read is the rattle at idle. And mine doesn't rattle at idle.

  12. I have the early 5-spd tranny. While i'm slowing down in gear or sometimes when cruising lightely I get a rattle from the transmission. It's not there under load or at idle. I believe it is the input shaft bearing but not sure. Also sometimes it will go away when very warm but its been there constant the last few days. It has gotten worse since I first heard it but it seems to have plateud at this intensity. What do you guys think?

     

    If it is the bearing what kind of job is it to replace. I've done a input shaft seal before but that just involved removing the cover. I think all you need is c-clip plies and you pull the bearing out but not sure if you have to do it from inside the tranny or outside. I might just upgrade to the zx tranny instead. Thanks

  13. Alright Thank you very much for the info on the fusible links I will be sure to check them out. Thanks also for the information about the Fuel Injection tuning, I would also agree that that is what they were trying to accomplish, This being the case, should I leave that resistor piece in there? or take it out and run it as it would have been stock? Once its running it runs great, its just that it sometimes doesn't start or stumbles and dies. Rather frustrating.

     

    Sounds like fusible links. Replace them with a newer fuse block or just redo the old ones. Make sure you get the correct amperage wire though.

  14. Check a data log and see if you have your acceleration enrichment kicking in. Maybe your acceleration threshold settings are a bit too low?

     

    Ok give this man a cookie. So just to put my mind at ease I turned off map based accel and it went away. Put it back on map based and it came back. So I bumped up the dead spot to 20 from 10 kpa and it went away again. The weird thing is my map sensor was never reading anything more than 1-2 kpa difference no where near my 10kpa cutoff. But after looking at my datalogs I did indeed see the stupid accel kicking in. Well I now have a very good grounding system and a well tuned car so... Thanks

  15. Check a data log and see if you have your acceleration enrichment kicking in. Maybe your acceleration threshold settings are a bit too low?

     

    I'm running map based acc enrichment and with a 10 kpa dead. So no dice their. Thanks though. BTW it does it all rpms and all loads. But not exactly the same jump in pulse. It jumps more at high rpms. And the grounds were not the problem.

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